DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.85 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat Soft
DROPS Muskat Soft
100% Cotton
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Extra 0-443
BIKINI TOP
Size: S – M - L
Materials: DROPS Muskat
50 g for all sizes, colour no 18, white
and use: DROPS Muskat Soft
50 g for all sizes, colour no 03, blue

Drops pointed needle size 4 mm or size needed to obtain 21 sts x 28 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.85 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat Soft
DROPS Muskat Soft
100% Cotton
Discontinued
find alternatives

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Garter sts, back and forth on needle: knit all rows.
Stripes: Work stripes as follows: *4 rows Muskat Soft, 2 rows Muskat*, repeat from *-*.
Decreasing tip: Make all dec from RS.
Beg 2 sts before Marking Thread (MT). K2 tog, MT, slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.

Bikini top: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 76-84-92 sts on needle size 4 mm with Muskat. Work 12 rows garter st – see above. Now work only the first 38-42-46 sts on row and slip remaining sts on a st holder (piece divided mid front). Continue in stocking st and stripes – see above – with 3 garter sts each side. Remember the knitting tension! Work 2 rows, at the same time inc to 42-46-50 sts evenly on 2nd row. Insert a Marking Thread (MT) after 21-23-25 sts and now dec 2 sts on every other and 4th row alternately – see Decreasing tip. Continue dec until 6 sts remain on row, piece measures approx 20-22-24 cm. Continue on the remaining 6 sts in Muskat (do not work stripes) for strap as follows: *4 rows garter st, 4 rows stocking st*, repeat from *-* and cast off when strap measures approx 45 cm, or required length. Slip sts from st holder back on needle and work the other side as described above. Pick up 8 sts with Muskat in the garter sts at the side at bottom of top and work back strap as follows: *4 rows garter st, 4 rows stocking*, repeat from *-* and cast off when strap measures 40 cm. Repeat the other side.

SHORTS
Size: XS – S – M – L – XL –XXL
To fit hip: 82/86 – 88/92 – 96/100 – 104/108 – 112/116 – 120-124 cm
Materials: DROPS Muskat
100 g for all sizes, colour no 18, white
and use: DROPS Muskat Soft
150-150-150-200-200-200 g, colour no 03, blue

Drops circular needle size 4 mm (40 and 80 cm) or size needed to obtain 21 sts x 28 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
Drops circular needle size 3.5 mm (80 cm) for Rib.


Rib: *K2, P2*, repeat from *-*.
Stripes: Work stripes as follows: *2 rounds Muskat, 4 rounds Muskat Soft*, repeat from *-*. NB! Round beg mid back, change colour here (do not cut thread for each colour change).

Shorts: Worked in the round from waist down. Cast on 140-156-168-184-196-212 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Muskat. Insert 1 Marking Thread (MT) at beg of round and 1 MT after 70-78-84-92-98-106 sts and now work 15 cm Rib – see above. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and continue in stocking st and stripes – see above- at the same time dec 0-1-0-1-0-1 st on both sides of MT mid back (= beg of round) on first row = 140-154-168-182-196-210 sts. Remember the knitting tension! Now inc 1 st on each side of both MT on every 2.5-2.5-2.5-2.5-3-3 cm a total of 8 times = 172-186-200-214-228-242 sts. When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm cast off the first 6-6-7-7-8-8 sts on round, slip the next 75-81-87-93-99-105 sts on a st holder (= leg), leave the next 11-12-13-14-15-16 sts on needle (= gusset), slip the next 75-81-87-93-99-105 sts on a st holder (= leg) and cast off the last 5-6-6-7-7-8 sts. Now work 9-10-11-12-13-14 cm stocking st on sts for gusset, cast off and sew gusset to the 11-12-13-14-15-16 sts cast off mid back.

Leg: Slip the 75-81-87-93-99-105 sts from 1 st holder back on needle on small circular needle size 4 mm and pick up 17-19-21-23-25-27 sts along the side of gusset = 92-100-108-116-124-132 sts. Work stocking st and stripes on all sts. When leg measures 4-4-5-5-6-6 cm work 2 cm Rib – see above. Cast off in Rib and repeat on the other leg.


Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (27)

country flag Rose Mason wrote:

How do i know what size S, M, L equals?

22.10.2023 - 21:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Rose, You have the hip measurements for the shorts. As regards the bikini top, the cup sizes are very individual and you might like to check your cup-size against the knitting tension: 21 stitches and 28 rows =10 cm x 10 cm, adjusting with more or fewer stitches and rows if necessary. Hope this helps and happy knitting!

23.10.2023 - 07:27

country flag Sara wrote:

Finishing up the shorts, for the rib on the legs, do you advise using a smaller needle as in the waist? The pattern doesn't specify.

11.08.2023 - 13:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sarah, use any technique that will allow the edge to stay elastic, see for example this video where we show 3 different techniques to cast off loosely - and in this video we show how to cast off such a rib with an italian cast off. Happy finishing!

11.08.2023 - 15:30

country flag Sara wrote:

Working the rib waist on the shorts and 6" seems like too much. Is it meant to fold over? The picture looks like about 2.5"-3" at most. The top fits well!

12.07.2023 - 02:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Sara, The pattern is for 6" rib waistband but you can of course work the waistband to the height you wish or fold it double. Happy knitting!

12.07.2023 - 07:12

country flag Sara wrote:

I had asked a question about the decreases on the top and just found the answer in the instructions! I had missed those previously - now it makes sense!

24.04.2023 - 04:52

country flag Sara wrote:

For the bikini top, where are the decreases done? From the picture, it looks like there are decreases on either side of the marker (size large, marker at 25 sts). Or are the 2 sts decreased always after the marker? Is it a k1psso decrease or k2tog decrease?

24.04.2023 - 04:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Sara, The decreases are 1 stitch on each side of the marker - knit 2 together before the marker and slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over after the marker. Happy knitting!

24.04.2023 - 06:43

country flag Elisa Nunne wrote:

Bonjour, je souhaiterais tricoter ce modèle mais en uni (sans rayures). Pouvez-vous m'aider en me disant combien de pelotes me faudrait il pour une taille S (Top et short) ? Merci !

13.06.2022 - 10:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Nunne, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande, et comme nous n'avons plus de modèle, nous ne pouvons plus vérifier. Contactez votre magasin, il saura vous aider, même par mail ou téléphone. Merci pour votre compréhension, bon tricot!

13.06.2022 - 11:46

country flag Sham wrote:

Hur vet man hur många maskor man ska ha om man har storlek L?

20.02.2022 - 19:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Sham. Tenker du på bikinitopp eller shorts? Under bikinitopp er det 3 størrelser og L er den du legger opp 92 masker, da kan du ut fra den oppgitt strikkefastheten finne ut av hvor mange cm det blir sånn ca. Strikk gjerne en prøvelapp der du sjekker din egen strikkefasthet. Under shorts er det 6 størrelser og der står det hva som tilsvarer hoftemål i oppskriften. mvh DROPS Design

21.02.2022 - 14:23

country flag Luisa wrote:

Buongiorno, volevo chiedere se dopo la realizzazione questo bikini è adatto al bagno in mare/piscina... Grazie

02.07.2020 - 18:49

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Luisa. Il cotone può cedere un po' quando bagnato. Le consigliamo di realizzare un campione e lavarlo per valutare se poter indossare il costume anche per i bagni. Buon lavoro!

03.07.2020 - 08:35

country flag Eden wrote:

The instructions for the shorts say to work 15cm of rib, followed by 8 increases 2.5cm apart (8x2.5=20cm). From where are we supposed to measure the 33/34cm before dividing for legs and gusset? If it's from the start of the cast on, then we're already 35cm at this point.

16.06.2017 - 09:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Eden, the dividing for legs is measured from cast-on edge, the inc are done on 15 cm, 17.5 cm, 20 cm, 22.5 cm, 25 cm, 27.5 cm, 30 cm and 32.5 cm (= 8x 2,5 cm). Happy knitting!

16.06.2017 - 09:39

country flag Rebecca wrote:

Pattern doesn't have instructions for finishing waist band.

18.05.2017 - 15:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rebecca, shorts are worked top down, ie fom waist down. You first work 15 cm / 6" Rib K2/P2, then continue in stockingtte st and stripes. Happy knitting!

18.05.2017 - 15:17