DROPS / 102 / 42

Nordic Paws by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS dog coat in ”Karisma” with traditional Norwegian pattern.

Tags: christmas, nordic, pets,
Size: XS - S - M
The measures of the dog:
Chest width: approx 28/32 – 40/44 – 48/52 cm
Back length: approx 24 – 32 - 40 cm
Examples of sizes of dogs: XS = Chihuahua, S = Bichon Frise, M = Cocker Spaniel

Materials: DROPS Karisma from Garnstudio
50-100-150 g colour no. 18,red
50 - 50-100 g colour no. 01, off white

DROPS small circular needle size 3.5 mm (sock needle in smallest size) – or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting tension

DROPS double pointed needle and small circular needle size 3mm.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting Tension: . 22 sts x 30 rows in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm

Pattern: See diagrams M.1 to M.5. The diagram are shown from the RS.

Rib: * K2, P2*, repeat from *-*
___________________________________________________________________

Coat:
Knit the coat round from the top and down.
Cast on 52-72-92 sts with double pointed needle size 3 mm in Off white. Knit in Rib for 6-8-10 cm (= neck). Change to small circular needle size 3.5 mm (sock needle in the smallest size), knit 1 round in stocking sts at the same time inc. 8-12-16 sts evenly distributed = 60-84-108 sts.
Continue the pattern as follows:
Size XS: M.1, M.3 and M.5
Size S: M.1, M.2, M.3, M.4 and M.5
Size M: M.1, M.2 2 times, M.3, M.4 and M.5 2 times.
At the same time when the piece measures 10-14-18 cm split the piece for the forelegs as follows: Cast off 1 st, put 11-11-23 sts on a thread or a stitch holder (= underneath the stomach), cast off 1 st, and continue the pattern knitting back and forth on needle over the remaining 47-71-83 sts (= back piece).
When the piece measures a total of 16-22-28 cm (the opening measures approx. 6-8-10 cm) put sts on a thread or a stitch holder.
Put the sts from underneath the stomach back on needle and knit in pattern as for as long as the back piece.
Put all sts back on the same needle and cast on 1 new st each side in between the top and the bottom piece (back and underneath the stomach) = 60-84-108 sts. Finish the pattern, and continue with red until finish. When the piece measures 19-27-35 cm cast off 9-13-17 sts mid underneath the stomach. Then complete the work knitting back and forth on needle – at the same time cast off each side on every other row : 2 sts 1-2-3 times, 1 st 8-9-10 times, 2 sts 1-2-3 times and 3 sts 1 time = 21-31-41 sts left. The work measures approx. 27-37-47 cm.

Assembly: Put the remaining sts on a small circular needle size 3 mm and in addition pick up sts around the casting off edge so the total number of sts = approx. 84-108-140 sts. Knit Rib for 2½ -3-3 cm,cast off loosely.

Leg: Pick up approx 36-44-52 sts with double pointed needle size 3mm and red, around 1 of the openings of the leg. Knit in Rib for 3-4-6 cm, cast off loosely with K over K and P over P. Repeat for the other opening.

Diagram

= off white
= red

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 102-42) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (71)

Ella 15.11.2019 - 11:59:

Hello, I have been working the back in rows and now need to return to the 11 stitches I have on hold to knit them to the same length. How do I do this? The working yarn is attached to the back stitches 8cm down. Is it necessary to cut the yarn or is there a better way to start knitting the 11 stitches on hold again?

DROPS Design 15.11.2019 kl. 12:28:

Dear Ella, after you have worked 8 cm over the sts on front piece (bottom piece = stomach), cut the yarn, then join yarn again on stitches for back p iece and work the same number of rows over these stitches, then work again piece in the round casting on 1 new stitches between back piece and bottom piece. Happy knitting!

Elisabeth Delaporte 03.11.2019 - 17:53:

Est-ce possible de transférer vos modèles sur une App telle que knit companion ou Love knitting (ou autre ) ? Merci

DROPS Design 05.11.2019 kl. 07:52:

Bonjour Mme Delaporte, nos modèles sont exclusivement imprimables sur papier ou en format .pdf à l'aide d'une imprimante virtuelle. Bon tricot!

Reatha 13.09.2019 - 19:17:

Which size will fit best for a westie?

DROPS Design 16.09.2019 kl. 08:26:

Dear Reatha, you will find all measurements: chest width and back length under the header to help you. Happy knitting!

L Howard 16.08.2019 - 19:32:

Is there a way to make the pattern fit a bigger dog?

DROPS Design 19.08.2019 kl. 08:57:

Dear Mrs Howard, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request, but you are welcome to contact your DROPS store - even per mail or telephone - or any knitting forum for individual help. Happy knitting!

Rigmor 27.06.2019 - 21:20:

Har satt 11 masker på en tråd til benet , hvor mange masker strikker jeg før neste ben skal på tråden .?

DROPS Design 05.07.2019 kl. 14:00:

Hej Rigmor, det er den ene maske du lukker af som bliver åbning til ben, de 11 masker du sætter på en tråd er maskerne under maven, når du har lukket 1 maske af på hver side af mave-maskerne, så har du 47 masker som du strikker frem og tilbage ifølge opskriften. God fornøjelse!

Nell Gutman 11.01.2019 - 04:10:

In pattern 102-42 there are two versions: one photo shows it with three colors: red, off white and maroon(dark red). The pattern that is provided only lists two colors: off white and red. I want to knit it with the three colors. Can you send me the pattern that includes the three colors.

DROPS Design 11.01.2019 kl. 09:37:

Dear Mrs Gutman, this pattern is only worked with 2 colours - should you like to work with 3 colours, please browse our dog sweaters patterns. Happy knitting!

Sarah 01.12.2018 - 11:28:

Hi I'm confused about working the back piece. The back piece has 47 stitches but the diagram has multiples of 12 stitches. How do I make up for this?

DROPS Design 03.12.2018 kl. 08:35:

Dear Sarah, work the 47 sts for back piece as they are, ie continue diagram over these 47 sts as before so that diagram matches and pattern continues. Happy knitting!

Jessica Bendroth 13.11.2018 - 17:26:

Hej, Jag förstår inte när jag kommer till delen montering. Vad innebär "sticka i tillägg"? Om jag har minsta storleken förstår jag nämligen inte hur det ska kunna bli 84 maskor när det bara var 60 innan man börjar avmaska.

DROPS Design 15.11.2018 kl. 09:50:

Hei Jessica. Du skal strikke opp masker langs avfellingskanten, for at du skal kunne strikke en vrangbord langs åpningen under magen/langs ryggen. Om du strikker den minste størrelsen har du 21 masker på pinnen fra før, du strikker så opp 63 masker langs avfellingskanten - (ca 31 masker på hver side av de maskene du allerede har på pinnen). Så strikker du vrangbord over alle maskene. God fornøyelse.

Regina 08.11.2018 - 07:47:

How to separate for the legs? I am at the beginning of my round. Do I Bind off 1 stitch and then work 11 stitches in pattern (make a note of this row so I can start at the right place later), then put these sts on a stitch holder. Bind off 1 st. and then begin working the 47 sts remaining back and forth. I will need to mark wrong side rows on the chart so I can change to purl stitches and keep the pattern correct. I have never worked Fair Isle flat. Always in the round. Is this correct?

DROPS Design 08.11.2018 kl. 09:24:

Dear Regina, from beg of round, work the next round as follows: bind off 1 stitch, work the next 11 sts in pattern as before, then slip these sts on a st holder, bind off next st and continue in pattern as before to the end of round (= to the first st bound off). You will now work back and forth over the sts on back piece: turn and continue in pattern in rows as before - read now diagram from the left towards the right from WS (make a note where your row finish from RS and read from there towards the right from WS) purling all sts from WS. Happy knitting!

Julie 27.02.2018 - 23:03:

Hei! Jeg strikker denne i størrelse s, og er nå kommet til delen hvor jeg skal strikke mønster på magen. Hvordan blir det med mønsteret når det er 12 masker i mønsteret, men bare 11 på pinnen? Da vil jo ikke mønsteret stemme til slutt? Takk på forhånd for svar!

DROPS Design 08.03.2018 kl. 16:25:

Hej Julie, strik mønsteret over de 11 masker du har, så vil det stemme når du sætter alle maskerne tilbage på pinden. God fornøjelse!

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