DROPS / 99 / 18

Country Walk by DROPS Design

DROPS crochet jacket in Muskat. Size XS - XXL

Size: XS/S – M/L – L/XL – XXL
Materials: Drops Muskat from Garnstudio
700-750-850-900-1000 g colour no 09, light brown

Drops Crochet Hook size 4 mm, or size needed to obtain the correct tension
11 buttons - approx diameter 2.5 cm

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.60 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Crochet tension: 16 tr x 10 rows on hook size 4mm with Muskat = 10 x 10 cm

Pattern: See Fig. 1 for the transition between tr’s and M.1. See diagram M.1.

Crochet info: At the beg of each row replace the 1st tr with 3 ch. At the end of row crochet the last tr in 3rd ch from beg of previous row.

Decreasing tip (apply to sleeve): Dec 1 tr each side of the tr-section by crochet tog the last 2 tr as follows: crochet the first tr, crochet the second but without pulling the thread trough the last time, make a yo and pull thread trough all 3 loops on crochet hook.

Casting off tip (apply to pockets):
Cast off as follows at beg of row: crochet 1 sl st over the first tr
Cast off as follows at the end of row: Turn the piece when 1 tr left on row

Buttonholes: 1 buttonhole = crochet 1 ch instead of the third tr on front band. On return row crochet 1 tr in ch.
Crochet buttonholes on right front band when piece measures:
Size XS/S: 13, 21 and 29 cm
Size M/L: 13, 21 and 29 cm
Size L/XL: 14, 22 and 30 cm
Size XXL: 14, 22 and 30 cm

Back and front piece: Crochet back and forth from mid front – remember buttonholes on right front band. Crochet 189-221-253-285 ch (incl 3 ch to turn with) on crochet hook size 4 mm. Now crochet 1 tr in 4th ch from the hook, 1 tr in next ch, *1 tr in each of the next 3 ch, skip 1 ch*, repeat from *-* = 141-165-189-213 tr (incl 7 tr each side for front band). Continue with 1 tr in each tr until piece measures 8 cm – read Crochet info! Crochet next row as follows: 7 tr (front band), M.1 on the next 127-151-175-199 tr and finish with 7 tr (front band) = 21-25-29-33 repeats of M.1. See Fig.1 for the transition between tr’s and M.1. Continue like this until piece measures 37-38-39-40 cm and now divide piece for front and back pieces as follows: right front piece = 7 tr on front band + 5-6-7-8 repeats in M.1, back piece = 11-13-15-17 repeats in M.1, left front piece = 5-6-7-8 repeats in M.1 + 7 tr on front band.

Right front piece: Crochet from mid front towards the side.
Size XS/S and M/L: Inc 1 repeat at side for wide shoulder – see Fig. 2 = 6-7-7-8 repeats (no inc for wide shoulder in size L/XL and XXL). At the same time when piece measures 44-45-46-47 cm only crochet on the outermost 5-6-6-6 repeats at the side (front band and 1-1-1-2 repeats towards mid front = neckline). Cut the thread when piece measures approx 56-58-60-62 cm.

Left front piece: Like right front piece, but mirrored. To make sure the 2 front pieces are identical, also crochet from mid front towards the side, i.e first row is from the WS.
Back piece: Size XS/S and M/L: Inc 1 repeat each side for wide shoulder – see Fig. 2 = 13-15-15-17 repeats (no inc for wide shoulder in size L/XL and XXL). When piece measures 54-56-58-60 cm (1 row left of M.1) only crochet on the outermost 5-6-6-6 repeats each side (middle 3-3-3-5 repeats = neckline). Cut the thread when piece measures approx 56-58-60-62 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams with neat sts.

Sleeve: Crochet from armhole and down. Crochet the sleeve around. Crochet 6-6-7-7 repeats of M.1 mid upper sleeve + 24-28-24-28 extra tr evenly distributed mid under arm (= 12-14-12-14 tr on each side of mid under arm). When sleeve measures 10 cm dec 2 tr in the tr-section under arm on every 3-3-3-2.5 cm a total of 11 times – read Decreasing tip = 6-6-7-7 repeats of M.1 + 2-6-2-6 extra tr. When sleeve measures 44-42-42-40 cm crochet tr until finish. Crochet as follows in each repeat: 1 tr in first tr from M.1, 1 tr in between the next 2 tr, 3 tr in ch-loop, 1 tr between the next 2 tr = 38-42-44-48 tr. Cut the thread when sleeve measures 52-50-50-48 cm (shorter sleeve in larger sizes because of wider shoulder pieces).

Collar: Crochet approx 60 to 90 tr along neckline. NB! Do not crochet on front bands (7 tr each side) – make sure there is enough tr at the corners so it is not to tight. Crochet 3 rows with 1 tr in each tr, on next row inc 1 tr in each corner, on each shoulder and mid back (crochet 2 tr in 1 tr). Continue with 1 tr in each tr until collar measures 12-12-13-13 cm. Cut the thread.

Button covers: Crochet covers for 11 buttons on crochet hook size 4 mm as follows
1st round: 2 ch, 14 tr in the first ch and finish with 1 sl st in first tr
2nd round: 1 dc in each tr and finish with 1 sl st in dc from beg of round
3rd round: 1 tr in every other dc and finish with 1 sl st in tr from beg of round = 7 tr
Put button inside cover, sew round the opening and pull tight.
Sew on buttons as follows: 3 buttons on left front band, 2 buttons on each sleeve (1 and 6 cm from bottom edge), fold down collar and place a button each side.

Pockets: Crochet 28 ch (incl 3 ch to turn with) on crochet hook size 4 mm with Muskat. Turn and crochet 1 tr in 4th ch from crochet hook, *1 tr in each of the next 3 ch, skip 1 ch*, repeat from *-* = 20 tr. Continue with 1 tr in each tr until piece measures 14 cm. Now cast off 1 tr each side on every row a total of 8 times – see Casting off tip = 4 tr left. Cut the thread. Crochet a border round the flap, i.e. where the dec beg, as follows: 1 dc in the first tr, *2 ch, skip 1 cm, 1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc in the same dc, skip 0.5 cm, 1 dc*, repeat from *-*. Fold the flaps over the pocket and attach with a button. Sew the pockets to front pieces, approx 10 cm from bottom edge.

Crochet border: Crochet a border round all edges including the sleeves on crochet hook size 4 mm with Muskat as follows: 1dc in the first tr, *2 ch, skip 1 cm, 1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc in the same dc, skip 0.5 cm, 1 dc*, repeat from *-*.

English explanation to pattern diagram:
In M.1: 1 rapport = 1 repeat


= ch
= tr
= tr group: crochet 2 tr in the same st, 3 ch, 2 tr in the same st

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 99-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (31)

Thelma Krzyszton 06.01.2020 - 22:45:

I could not find how to work the back after pattern is divided for front sections and back. also the underarm area, i am all the way to this point and stuck.

DROPS Design 07.01.2020 kl. 08:54:

Dear Mrs Krzyszton, after dividing piece, you first work Right front piece, then Left front piece, then Back piece. Back piece = 11-13-15-17 repeats in M.1 increasing 1 stitch in size XS/S and M/L as in Fig 2 = 13-15-15-17 repeats in width. Happy crocheting!

1111232likdlHFDKJhnkj 13.10.2018 - 17:29:

Where do I begin the join for starting the back panel having done both side panels please? I\\\'ve seen an errata for this but that didn\\\'t really help. Do I begin in the three chain space either side of the two dcs or in the same stitch that the front panel end stitch is? Without a diagram and clear instructions, this is guesswork. Do I follow Fig 2 for this so I get a match with front panels?

DROPS Design 15.10.2018 kl. 09:08:

Dear 1111232likdlHFDKJhnkj, yes you will start the back piece so that pattern matches as before and is the same as before = first 3 chains will be worked in the same st as front piece and last st on back piece will be worked in the same st as on other front piece. Work then increase as explained in your size following fig 2. Happy crocheting!

Pia Erikson 03.06.2017 - 01:01:

Jag snubblar redan på uppläggningsvarvet! 221 lm första st i 4:e m och en st i nästa lm sen 3 st. Det blir med de 3 m man vänder med = 6st. Sen ska det bli 165 st totalt men jag får inte 6st i slutet. Det står lägg upp 221 lm, sen innan parantes inklusive 3 lm för vändningen. Är det 221 lm PLUS 3 lm alltså 224 i upplägget? Senare står det att det är inkl 7 lm som är kanten. Men man startar ju med 6 st i kanten! Jag är så förvirrad. Hjälp

Bakoly 11.05.2017 - 20:52:

Bonjour, Je n arrive pas à faire l augmentation d un motif de chaque coté pour le dos. En effet, la fig.2 ne montre que l augmentation d un coté en fin de rang.

DROPS Design 12.05.2017 kl. 08:43:

Bonjour Mme Bakoly, ces augmentations se font en fin de rang, augmentez ainsi en fin de rang sur l'endroit puis de la même façon en fin de rang sur l'envers. Bon crochet!

Pat Moody 13.02.2017 - 07:32:

I'm confused how to increase at arm pattern say refer fig 2

Herma 23.11.2015 - 09:46:

Bij het meerderen van het achterpand, meerder je dan de ene toer aan de rechterkant en de volgende toer aan de linkerkant? Het lukt mij namelijk niet om in 1 toer zowel links als rechts te meerderen

DROPS Design 23.11.2015 kl. 13:28:

Hoi Herma. Ja, dat klopt. Je meerdert eerst aan de rechterkant, haak de toer uit, keer en meerder aan de linkerkant in de volgende toer.

Inga Eriksson 13.06.2015 - 15:53:

Enligt mönstret är bakstyckets axel på 5 rapporter, framstyckets axel på 6 rapporter. Borde inte bakstyckets axel vara bredare? Kan någon förklara anledningen till att axeln fram ska vara bredare än bak om mönstret är korrekt? Vidare får fickan olika utseende i hö resp vä sida. En lm från uppläggningsvarvet blir dessutom "över". Är mönstret verkligen korrekt?

DROPS Design 15.06.2015 kl. 12:18:

Hej. "Samtidigt när arb mäter 44-45-46-47 cm avm till hals genom att det nu endast virkas över de yttersta 5-6-6-6 rapporterna i sidan..." Det är 5 rapporter på framst till axlar så det ska vara riktigt. Lycka till!

José Schalk 04.03.2015 - 11:05:

Hoe moet ik de steken voor de mouw opnemen? Dat staat niet in het patroon. Ik ben begonnen met in elke ruimte van drie lossen van de rand van het voorpand een patroon van M1 te doen. Maar dan kom ik op wel 12 herhalingen van M1 ipv 6. De stokjes op midden onderbouw heb ik wel volgens patroon gedaan dat zijn er 24 volgens maat M/L.

DROPS Design 09.03.2015 kl. 14:37:

Hoi José. Je moet de steken haken van het armsgat. Ik kan het aantal steken dat je noemt niet volgen, maar in het patroon staat hoeveel steken je moet haken, en dat moet je aanhouden; dus 6 midden bovenop de mouw en verder stokjes.

Brigitte Van Dongen 04.11.2014 - 19:44:

Hallo, ik begrijp het meerderen niet vanaf voorpand en achterpand, ik kom niet uit, dan apart het rugpand(achterpand)apart meerderen? ik heb tot de hoogte gehaakt die tot het meerderen, watis middenvoor en zijkant???

DROPS Design 05.11.2014 kl. 16:49:

Hoi Brigitte. Je hebt bij een hoogte van 37-38-39 of 40 cm het werk verdeeld in voorpanden en achterpand (zie patroon). Meerderen gebeurd aan de zijkant tegen de schouder. Middenvoor = voorkant van de voorpanden (dus waar je gaat knopen). Zijkant is dan aan de andere kant waar de mouwen komen. Op het achterpand meerder je aan beide zijkanten. Je kan in figuur 2 onderaan zien hoe je moet meerderen. 1 herhaling is "1 rapport" dus 1 stk-group.

Julie Henderson 30.10.2014 - 09:50:

Hello I was wondering what weight yarn is used in this pattern. Thank you

DROPS Design 30.10.2014 kl. 13:45:

Dear Mrs Henderson, DROPS Muskat is DK/8 ply (11 wpi), 100 m (109 yards) / 50 g (1.76 ounces). Happy crocheting!

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