Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
= K from RS, P from WS | |
= P from RS, K from WS |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
DROPS 96-7 |
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DROPS Jacket in pattern with raglan sleeve in Karisma
DROPS 96-7 |
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Knitting Tension: 21 stitches x 28 rows on needle size 4 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm Pattern: see diagram M.1 The diagram is seen from the right side. Decreasing tips (applies to raglan): purl the st on each side of the marking thread from the RS and knit it from the WS Dec as follows from the RS: 3 sts before the marking thread: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso, P1 After the marking thread: P1, K2 tog Dec as follows from the WS: 3 sts before the marking thread: P2 tog, K1 After the marking thread: K1, P2 tog into back of st Buttonhole: Cast off for buttonholes on right front edge. 1 buttonhole = cast off the 3rd and 4th st from middle front and cast on 2 new sts in the same place on next row. Cast off for buttonholes when the piece measures: Size S: 5, 12, 19, 26, 33, 40, 47, 54 and 61 cm Size M: 5, 12, 20, 27, 34, 41, 49, 56 and 63 cm Size L: 5, 13, 20, 28, 35, 43, 50, 58 and 65 cm Size XL: 5, 13, 21, 28, 36, 44, 52, 59 and 67 cm Size XXL: 5, 13, 21, 29, 37, 45, 53, 60 and 68 cm Back and front piece: Knitted back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 197-221-245-269-293 sts (incl 7 front edge sts each side, knitted in garter sts throughout)) on circular needle size 4 mm. Continue as follows: (1st row = RS): 7 edge sts in garter sts, M.1 over 183-207-231-255-279 sts, 7 front edge sts in garter sts – remember buttonholes on right front edge – see above. When piece measures 39-40-41-42-43 cm knit next row as follows: 7 front edge sts, M.1 over 37-43-49-55-61 sts, cast off 13 sts for armhole, M.1 over 83-95-107-119-131 sts, cast off 13 sts for armhole, M.1 over 37-43-49-55-61 sts. Put all sts on a thread and knit the sleeves. Sleeves: The sleeves are knitted round on double pointed needles. Cast on 48-48-54-54-60 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm and knit M.1 – make sure to have P3 mid under arm. When piece measures 8 cm inc 1 st on each side of the P3 mid under arm on every 2.5-2-2.5-2-2 cm a total of 15-18-15-18-18 times – incorporate new sts in M.1 as you go along = 78-84-84-90-96 sts. When piece measures 45 cm cast off 13 sts mid under arm = 65-71-71-77-83 sts. Yoke: Put sleeves in on the same circular needle as back and front pieces where you cast off for armholes = 301-337-361-397-433 sts. Insert a marking thread in all transitions between sleeves and body pieces = 4 marking threads. Continue in pattern, at the same time dec for raglan on every other row – see Decreasing tips – as follows: Towards the sleeves: on every other row 25-25-28-28-26 times and then on every row 0-3-0-3-8 times. Towards the body pieces: on every other row 24-26-26-22-19 times and then on every row 0-1-4-14-23 times. At the same time when piece measures 54-56-58-60-62 cm put the outermost 10-11-12-12-12 sts each side on a thread for neck. Dec to shape the neckline on every other row 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times. After all inc for raglan and neck are complete = 73-83-93-93-93 sts left on needle and piece measures approx 60-62-64-66-68 cm. Neck: Pick up approx 18 to 20 sts on each neckline (incl sts on thread) = approx 109 to 133 sts. Knit 1 row whilst dec evenly to 95-95-101-101-107 sts (do not dec over the 13 sts each side towards mid front). Now knit 2 rows Rib *K1, P1* (knit front edge as before), 1 row stocking sts and continue in M.1 (continue to knit front edge as before). Cast off loosely when M.1 measures 6 cm. Assembly: Sew the openings under arms and sew on buttons. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (64)
RIBAULT Martine wrote:
Taille L. Depuis ma 1ère demande d'aide 5.12.2023, je ne m'en sort pas dans l'exécution de M1 avec les 3 dernières m en fin de rg sur les 231m de M1. S.v.p pouvez-vous me donner le détail exact de M1 pour le rgs 1 à 8 concernant ces 3m de fin de rg pair s/endroit & début impair s/envers concernant ces 3 dernières m du rg précédent s/end. tricoter ensuite s/rg envers ? Je suis sur le point de jeter l'éponge ! Merci pour votre réponse.
24.01.2024 - 19:10DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Ribault, R1 (endroit): *3 m end, 3 mv*, répétez de *à* et terminez par 3 m end. R2 (envers): 3 m env, puis répétez *1 m env, 1 m end, 4 m. env*, répétez de *à* et terminez par 3 m env. R3: *3 m end, 3 m env*, répétez de *à* et terminez par 3 m end. R4: 3 m env, puis répétez *1 m env,1 m end, 4 m env*.. Répétez ces 4 rangs. N'hésitez pas à vous entrainer sur un nombre réduit de mailles (multiple de 6 + 3 + 1 m lis de chaque côté) ce sera ainsi plus simple. Bon tricot!
25.01.2024 - 08:58RIBAULT Martine wrote:
Aujourd'hui à 9h34, j'ai rédigé une demande d'aide pour le modèle 96-7, Taille L. Lors de cette demande je n'ai pas eu la proposition à la fin de mettre mon adresse mail pour recevoir une réponse. Est-ce qu'il serait possible d'obtenir une réponse s'il-vous-plaît ? Merci. PS : De plus j'ai envoyé un mail sur l'adresse mail que vous utilisez pour prévenir qu'il y a une réponse à mes demandes d'aides ultérieures.
23.01.2024 - 18:10DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Ribault, retrouvez ci-dessous la réponse à votre question, en espérant qu'elle ait pu vous aider. Bon tricot!
24.01.2024 - 08:19RIBAULT Martine wrote:
Taille L, dos & devant = 245m. 1er rg=7m mousse, 38×M1 + 3m en fin de rg. Ces 3 dernières m les tricoter comme celles des 3 premières de M1 en début de rg, finir avec 7m mousse. Au retour 2è rg envers, tricoter ces 3 premières m en commençant les 6m de M1, en fin de rg 3 dernières m finir par les 3 premières m de M1 de ce 2è rg. Est-ce exact et est-ce que ce sera la même façon de faire pour les 6rg restants de M1 ? De cette façon est-ce que la symétrie du motif sera respectée ?
23.01.2024 - 09:34DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Ribault, sur l'endroit vous terminez par les 3 premières mailles de M.1, sur l'envers, commencez par ces 3 mailles en lisant de gauche à droite, autrement dit: (1 m end, 1 m env, 1 m end), puis répétez les 6 m deM.12 en lisant de gauche à droite (4 m end, 1 m env, 1 m end). Ainsi, vous avez toujours les 3 premières mailles de M.1, vu sur l'endroit, à 7 m de bordure devant des bords. Bon tricot!
24.01.2024 - 07:23RIBAULT Martine wrote:
Taille L, 245 m, se décomposant ainsi: 7m mousse, 231m (38,5 x M1 = 38x6m de M1 + 3m enfin de rg) et 7m mousse. 4ème rg s/env commence par 1m env;1m end & 4m env, reste 3m de M1 en fin de rg. Est-ce que ces 3 dernières m se tricote ainsi : 1m env s/env; 1m end s/env & 1m env s/env ? Est-ce exact ? Or les 3 rgs précédents se terminent tous par 3m end, que ce soit s/l'end ou l'env du tricot, ainsi que les 5e, 6e & 7è rg. La terminaison du 8e rg semblable à celle du 4e rg. Est-ce exact ?
13.01.2024 - 02:19DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Ribault, au 4ème rang, vu sur l'endroit, vous devez avoir 4 m endroit, 1 m env, 1 m end, autrement dit, vous allez tricoter les 3 premières mailles de M.1 vu sur l'endroit/les 3 premières mailles du diagramme à l'envers sur l'envers, vous commencerez et terminerez ainsi M.1 par 3 mailles endroit sauf aux tours 2 et 6 où on tricote 1 m end, 1 m env, 1 m end (vu sur l'endroit, autrement dit, 1 m env, 1 m end, 1 m env, sur l'envers). Bon tricot!
15.01.2024 - 08:12Ribault Martine wrote:
Taille L, 245 m, décomposé ainsi : 7m mousse, 231 m M1, 7m mousse. Je constate pour une lecture de droite à gauche pour 1er, 3è rg, rg impair termine par 3m end. sur les 3| 1ère m de M1. Le 2è rg termine par 3m end s/env des 3| 1ère m de M1. Or le 4e rg termine par les 3| 1ère m de M1, par 1m env s/env ; 1m end s/env & 1m env s/env. Or les rgs précédents se terminent par 3m endroit. Dans ce cas, est-ce que la symétrie du motif sera la bonne ?
12.01.2024 - 00:23DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Ribault, notez qu'au 4ème rang, la 1ère maille (à gauche = la 1ère m à tricoter sur l'endroit, autrement dit la 6ème m du diagramme, vu sur l'endroit) se tricote à l'envers sur l'envers, ainsi vous commencez M.1 par les 3 premières mailles (3 m env sur l'envers), puis répétez M.1 (1 m env, 1 m end, 4 m env). Bon tricot!
12.01.2024 - 08:07RIBAULT Martine wrote:
J'ai choisi de commencer ce modèle par 6rg de côte 1|1, 2,5 cm de hauteur, finissant sur envers. Est-ce qu'il serait préférable de faire un rg supplémentaire de côte 1|1 sur le 7è rg et au 8è rg sur envers faire un rg de mailles envers ou 1rg de mailles endroit sur l'envers pour aborder au mieux diagramme M1? Que me conseillez-vous, 1rg mailles envers s/l'envers, ou 1rg m endroit s/l'envers ? Merci pour votre réponse.
11.01.2024 - 01:16DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Ribault, dans ce modèle, le 1er rang du diagramme se fait sur l'endroit, vous pouvez donc tricoter 1 rang de côtes supplémentaire pour commencer le motif sur l'endroit (ou bien 1 rang en moins, tant que vous commencez sur l'endroit). Bon tricot!
11.01.2024 - 08:31RIBAULT Martine wrote:
Taille L dos+devant monter 245 m (incluant 2×7m pour les bordures) travailler M1 sur le reste des 231 m (nbre impair). M1 sur 6m (nbre pair) & 8 rgs. 231 m:6=38,5 fois M1. Dans ce cas par quoi commencer M1 au 1er rg pour obtenir un symétrie du motif M1? Aucune indication n'est donné dans les explications. C'est perturbant, cela manque de précisions. Je pense que ce serait bien de préciser pour chaque taille par quoi commencer M1 au 1er rang.
04.01.2024 - 02:34DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Ribault, pour la symétrie, on va justement commencer et terminer M.1 de la même façon: tricotez 7 m de bordure devant, répétez 38 fois les 6 mailles de M.1, tricotez les 3 premières mailles du diagramme (le motif est ainsi le même de chaque côté), et terminez par les 7 m de bordure devant. Bon tricot!
04.01.2024 - 08:37Martine RIBAULT wrote:
Je ne désire pas faire le point du diagramme, plutôt réaliser ce modèle tout en jersey, en y incluant une torsade tout du long de chaque bordure de boutonnage. Est-ce réalisable ? Dans ce cas pourriez-vous me guider dans le choix d'un diagramme pour torsade, sachant que ce serait une 1ière pour moi. Je n'ai pas encore réalisé de torsade sur un tricot et j'ai besoin d'être guidé dans mon choix pour un diagramme torsade. Serez-vous en mesure de me faire une proposition ?
03.01.2024 - 20:08DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Ribault, les indications de ce modèle ont été calculées par rapport au motif, autrement dit, si vous utilisez un autre motif, vous n'aurez pas les bonnes mesures en largeur sur la base du nombre de mailles indiqué. Il vaudrait mieux choisir un modèle plus adapté à vos envies, ce qui vous donnerait moins de re-calculs à faire. Bon tricot!
04.01.2024 - 08:15RIBAULT Martine wrote:
Bonjour, Dans mon message du 09.12.2023 à 23h01, je vous demandais quel est le nombre exact de mailles à relever de chaque côté de l'encolure pour faire le col. Vous ne n'avez pas répondu à cette question. Pouvez-vous me répondre s'il-vous-plaît ? Je fais la taille L. Merci pour votre réponse.
11.12.2023 - 16:46DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Ribault, il faut relever 18 à 20 mailles de chaque côté de l'encolure, le nombre de mailles précis n'est pas important à ce niveau, ce qui compte c'est de bien relever les mailles de sorte qu'il y en ait ni trop ni trop peu, au rang suivant, vous ajusterez le nombre en répartissant des diminutions (ou des augmentations le cas échéant) pour avoir le nombre de mailles requis pour la taille. Bon tricot!
12.12.2023 - 08:42Martine RIBAULT wrote:
Dos&Devant Monter 245m (y compris les 7m de bordure de chaque côté, tricoté point mousse...), continuer comme suit (1er rg=end):7m lis mousse, M1 s/les 231m suiv, 7m lis mousse. Si ce 1er rg est 1rg end, le rg suiv est 1rg env : 7m lis M1 s/231m & 7m lis ? Est-ce exact? Col Relever env. 18-20 m chaque côté encolure. Quel est le nbre exact de m à relever de chaque côté encolure, 18 ou 20m ? Merci pour votre aide.
09.12.2023 - 23:01DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Ribault, sur l'endroit, vous répétez les 6 mailles de M.1 et vous terminez par les 3 premières mailles du diagramme pour que le motif soit symétrique sur l'envers, lisez le diagramme de gauche à droite en commençant par les 3 premières mailles et répétez ensuite le diagramme de gauche à droite. Bon tricot!
11.12.2023 - 08:48