DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
 100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Button 535
DROPS Buttons
Charred No. 535
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425
  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Cardigans
  4. DROPS
  5. 96
  6. 7

Night Fall Cardigan

DROPS Jacket in pattern with raglan sleeve in Karisma

Change language:

DROPS 96-7
Size: S – M – L – XL-XXL

Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
600-650-700-750-850 g colour no 16, dark grey

DROPS circular and double pointed needles size 4 mm
DROPS buffalo horn button, no 535, 9 pcs

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
 100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Button 535
DROPS Buttons
Charred No. 535
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..
Knitting Tension: 21 stitches x 28 rows on needle size 4 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm
Pattern: see diagram M.1 The diagram is seen from the right side.
Decreasing tips (applies to raglan): purl the st on each side of the marking thread from the RS and knit it from the WS
Dec as follows from the RS:
3 sts before the marking thread: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso, P1
After the marking thread: P1, K2 tog
Dec as follows from the WS:
3 sts before the marking thread: P2 tog, K1
After the marking thread: K1, P2 tog into back of st
Buttonhole: Cast off for buttonholes on right front edge. 1 buttonhole = cast off the 3rd and 4th st from middle front and cast on 2 new sts in the same place on next row.
Cast off for buttonholes when the piece measures:
Size S: 5, 12, 19, 26, 33, 40, 47, 54 and 61 cm
Size M: 5, 12, 20, 27, 34, 41, 49, 56 and 63 cm
Size L: 5, 13, 20, 28, 35, 43, 50, 58 and 65 cm
Size XL: 5, 13, 21, 28, 36, 44, 52, 59 and 67 cm
Size XXL: 5, 13, 21, 29, 37, 45, 53, 60 and 68 cm

Back and front piece: Knitted back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 197-221-245-269-293 sts (incl 7 front edge sts each side, knitted in garter sts throughout)) on circular needle size 4 mm. Continue as follows: (1st row = RS): 7 edge sts in garter sts, M.1 over 183-207-231-255-279 sts, 7 front edge sts in garter sts – remember buttonholes on right front edge – see above. When piece measures 39-40-41-42-43 cm knit next row as follows: 7 front edge sts, M.1 over 37-43-49-55-61 sts, cast off 13 sts for armhole, M.1 over 83-95-107-119-131 sts, cast off 13 sts for armhole, M.1 over 37-43-49-55-61 sts. Put all sts on a thread and knit the sleeves.

Sleeves: The sleeves are knitted round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 48-48-54-54-60 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm and knit M.1 – make sure to have P3 mid under arm. When piece measures 8 cm inc 1 st on each side of the P3 mid under arm on every 2.5-2-2.5-2-2 cm a total of 15-18-15-18-18 times – incorporate new sts in M.1 as you go along = 78-84-84-90-96 sts. When piece measures 45 cm cast off 13 sts mid under arm = 65-71-71-77-83 sts.

Yoke: Put sleeves in on the same circular needle as back and front pieces where you cast off for armholes = 301-337-361-397-433 sts. Insert a marking thread in all transitions between sleeves and body pieces = 4 marking threads. Continue in pattern, at the same time dec for raglan on every other row – see Decreasing tips – as follows:
Towards the sleeves: on every other row 25-25-28-28-26 times and then on every row 0-3-0-3-8 times.
Towards the body pieces: on every other row 24-26-26-22-19 times and then on every row 0-1-4-14-23 times.
At the same time when piece measures 54-56-58-60-62 cm put the outermost 10-11-12-12-12 sts each side on a thread for neck. Dec to shape the neckline on every other row 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times. After all inc for raglan and neck are complete = 73-83-93-93-93 sts left on needle and piece measures approx 60-62-64-66-68 cm.
Neck: Pick up approx 18 to 20 sts on each neckline (incl sts on thread) = approx 109 to 133 sts. Knit 1 row whilst dec evenly to 95-95-101-101-107 sts (do not dec over the 13 sts each side towards mid front). Now knit 2 rows Rib *K1, P1* (knit front edge as before), 1 row stocking sts and continue in M.1 (continue to knit front edge as before). Cast off loosely when M.1 measures 6 cm.

Assembly: Sew the openings under arms and sew on buttons.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
diagram
© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Night Fall Cardigan

Rebecca, United States

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 96-7

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Comments / Questions (81)

country flag Martine wrote:

Je vous remercie pour vos réponses concernant mes questions s/le types d'augmentations à utiliser plus qu'une autre afin d'obtenir la meilleure symétrie pour la suite de M1, après les 3m envers dessous manche au commencement du tour et à la fin du tour. Avez-vous un tuto vidéo à proposer parmis les différents types d'augmentations ?

23.01.2025 - 11:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Martine, dans cette vidéo, nous montrons comment tricoter des augmentations en côtes, inclinées d'un côté et de l'autre des 2 mailles endroit (dans la vidéo) du milieu; vous pouvez adapter cette technique en augmentant de la même façon de part et d'autre des 3 m envers en incorporant les nouvelles mailles au point fantaisie. Bon tricot!

24.01.2025 - 07:30

country flag Martine wrote:

Taille L - Réponse du jour. Désolée de devoir insister, cela manque de précision et ne répond pas aux questions posées. Besoin précisions s/types augmentat° à utiliser plus qu'une autre lorsque le point du tricot est structuré, pour l'harmonie et la symétrie de M1 après, avant les 3m envers dessous manche. Dois-je utiliser augmentat° raglan, inclinaison droite & gauche, levée, invisible ou autre ? Merci .

23.01.2025 - 11:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Martine, comme indiqué précédemment, vous pouvez utiliser la technique pour augmenter que vous souhaitez, à l'époque où ce modèle a été publié, il n'était pas donné d'astuce particulière, mais la plupart du temps les augmentations étaient faites avec 1 jeté tricoté torse en point fantaisie au tour suivant, toutefois, en fonction de vos habitudes et/ou du résultat que vous souhaitez, vous pouvez choisir votre façon d'augmenter, pour obtenir le résultat que vous souhaitez. Bon tricot!

24.01.2025 - 07:22

country flag Martine wrote:

Taille L Augmentations des manches. Que me conseillez-vous pour les augmentations en début de tour après les 3 m envers et en fin de tour avant les 3 mailles envers (de dessous la manche), comme la maille suivante du motif M1 ? Quel type d'augmentation : invisible, levée, inclinée à droite en début de tour (après les 3 m dessous manche) et l'inverse en fin de tour avant les 3m envers (dessous de manche), comme la m suivante du motif M1 ? Avez-vous un vidéo à me proposer ? Merci.

22.01.2025 - 18:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Martine, utilisez la technique avec laquelle vous êtes le plus à l'aise, à titre d'exemple, retrouvez toutes nos vidéos pour augmenter ici, n'hésitez pas à essayer sur un échantillon séparé avant de vous décider. Bon tricot!

23.01.2025 - 10:06

country flag Martine wrote:

Bonjour, Désolée de devoir insister et vous prie de bien vouloir m'en excuser. Je suis sans réponses des questions que je pose dans mes 2 messages du 21/12 à 8h36 et à 8h50, ainsi que le 23/12 à 00h12 et à 00h46 (00h48 erreur d'envoi en double de celui de 0h46). Je bloque sur la réflexion de la répartition du type de m env ou m end concernant le 15 augmentat° pour le suivi de la lecture de M1. Pouvez-vous me donner le détail de M1 à partir des 1ère augmentations s.vp. ? Merci.

23.12.2024 - 10:30

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Martine, vous devez placer M.1 de sorte que vous avez 3 m envers au milieu sous la manche (soit les 3 premières soit les 3 dernières mailles du tour), tricotez ensuite les augmentations en faisant les incorporant au point fantaisie, le motif ne tombera automatiquement pas juste à chaque fois car vous devez garder les 3 m envers sous la manche, mais tricotez les augmentations en début de tour (après ces 3 m env) comme la maille précédent la 1ère maille du tour et tricotez les augmentations en fin de tour (avant ces 3 m env) comme la m suivante du motif. Bon tricot!

02.01.2025 - 10:33

country flag Martine wrote:

Taille L-Augmentation de 2 fois 1m tous les 2,5 cm, de part et d"autre des 3m env (m sous manche), soit 15fois une augmentat°de 2m. SVP Détail des 4rgs de M1 à partir de1ère augmentation à 8cm de hauteur? Quel sera la répartition des augmentations, est-ce-que j'augmente 1m avant les 3m envers en début rg et 1m en fin rg après les 3 dernières mailles de M1 du rg en cours? Quel sera le type de m de M1, après 1ère augmentation, 1m end ou 1m env, que se soit en début ou fin de rg?

23.12.2024 - 00:48

country flag Martine wrote:

Taille L-Augmentation de 2 fois 1m tous les 2,5 cm, de part et d"autre des 3m env (m sous manche), soit 15fois une augmentat°de 2m. SVP Détail des 4rgs de M1 à partir de1ère augmentation à 8cm de hauteur? Quel sera la répartition des augmentations, est-ce-que j'augmente 1m avant les 3m envers en début rg et 1m en fin rg après les 3 dernières mailles de M1 du rg en cours? Quel sera le type de m de M1, après 1ère augmentation, 1m end ou 1m env, que se soit en début ou fin de rg?

23.12.2024 - 00:46

country flag Martine wrote:

Manche circulaire, L. Diagramme : Rg1 Marqueur 3m env, (m sous manches), Marq 3m end, 3m env, 8fois, finir avec 3m end. - Rg2 Marqueur 3m env, Marq *1m env, 1m end, 4m env*, 8 fois,finir avec 1m env, 1m end, 1m env. - Rg3 Marqueur 3m env Marqu, *idem* du rg1, 8 fois , finir avec 3m end. - Rg4 Marqueur 3m env Marq, *4m end, 1m env, 1m end* 8fois, finir avec 3m end. Est-ce-que ce diagramme en circulaire est exacte ? Si oui détail M1 à partir de 1ère augmentation svp?

23.12.2024 - 00:12

country flag Martine wrote:

Taille L. Je galère avec M1 manches circulaire. Tenté de faire le diagramme de M1, en mettant les symboles dans chaque cases du papier millimétré, en commerçant d'abord les 54m des 4 1er rgs et en plaçant les 3m env. en début de rg. Je ne suis pas sûr que la symétrie du point puisse être la bonne. Pouvez-vous SVP donner le détail de M1 des rgs 1 à 4, en précisant à quel endroit placer les Marqueurs pour les augmentations par rapport au 3m env. devant se trouver sous la manche ?

21.12.2024 - 08:50

country flag Martine wrote:

Suite de v/réponse 26/11,17h19. Précisions de M1 en circulaire. Est-ce-que tous rgs doivent commencer par 3 m env. pour que ces 3 m soit celles devant se trouver dessous la manche? En circulaire on tricote uniquement s/rgs end. Donc ces 3 m env. se trouvant à la fin des rgs de M1 s/end doivent être placée en début de chaque tours ? SVP détail des rgs de M1 en circulaire, du rg1 au rg4 avec précision où placer les Marqueurs de m, avant et après ces 3 1ère m de chaque tours ?

21.12.2024 - 08:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Martine, vous devez placer les 3 mailles envers de M.1 au niveau du milieu sous la manche, ce peut être ainsi soit les 3 premières mailles soit les 3 dernières mailles du tour, au choix, vous augmenterez ensuite avant et après ces 3 mailles tout en incorporant les augmentations au point fantaisie. Bon tricot!

02.01.2025 - 09:34

country flag Martine wrote:

Merci, cette fois-ci les dernières explications pour tricoter en circulaire me semble plus claires. Je vais donc pouvoir commencer la réalisation des manches. J'ai reproduit M1 sur feuille papier millimétrée à partir des 54m à monter, en positionnant les 15 augmentations toutes les 2,5 cm. Ce sera plus facile de suivre l'évolution de M1 sur les 84 m, à 45 cm hauteur totale et rabattre les 13 m du milieu sous le bras. Restera donc 71 m pour la taille L. Merci pour votre aide.

26.11.2024 - 22:55

Night Fall Cardigan


DROPS Jacket in pattern with raglan sleeve in Karisma

DROPS 96-7
Size: S – M – L – XL-XXL

Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
600-650-700-750-850 g colour no 16, dark grey

DROPS circular and double pointed needles size 4 mm
DROPS buffalo horn button, no 535, 9 pcs

Knitting Tension: 21 stitches x 28 rows on needle size 4 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm
Pattern: see diagram M.1 The diagram is seen from the right side.
Decreasing tips (applies to raglan): purl the st on each side of the marking thread from the RS and knit it from the WS
Dec as follows from the RS:
3 sts before the marking thread: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso, P1
After the marking thread: P1, K2 tog
Dec as follows from the WS:
3 sts before the marking thread: P2 tog, K1
After the marking thread: K1, P2 tog into back of st
Buttonhole: Cast off for buttonholes on right front edge. 1 buttonhole = cast off the 3rd and 4th st from middle front and cast on 2 new sts in the same place on next row.
Cast off for buttonholes when the piece measures:
Size S: 5, 12, 19, 26, 33, 40, 47, 54 and 61 cm
Size M: 5, 12, 20, 27, 34, 41, 49, 56 and 63 cm
Size L: 5, 13, 20, 28, 35, 43, 50, 58 and 65 cm
Size XL: 5, 13, 21, 28, 36, 44, 52, 59 and 67 cm
Size XXL: 5, 13, 21, 29, 37, 45, 53, 60 and 68 cm

Back and front piece: Knitted back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 197-221-245-269-293 sts (incl 7 front edge sts each side, knitted in garter sts throughout)) on circular needle size 4 mm. Continue as follows: (1st row = RS): 7 edge sts in garter sts, M.1 over 183-207-231-255-279 sts, 7 front edge sts in garter sts – remember buttonholes on right front edge – see above. When piece measures 39-40-41-42-43 cm knit next row as follows: 7 front edge sts, M.1 over 37-43-49-55-61 sts, cast off 13 sts for armhole, M.1 over 83-95-107-119-131 sts, cast off 13 sts for armhole, M.1 over 37-43-49-55-61 sts. Put all sts on a thread and knit the sleeves.

Sleeves: The sleeves are knitted round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 48-48-54-54-60 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm and knit M.1 – make sure to have P3 mid under arm. When piece measures 8 cm inc 1 st on each side of the P3 mid under arm on every 2.5-2-2.5-2-2 cm a total of 15-18-15-18-18 times – incorporate new sts in M.1 as you go along = 78-84-84-90-96 sts. When piece measures 45 cm cast off 13 sts mid under arm = 65-71-71-77-83 sts.

Yoke: Put sleeves in on the same circular needle as back and front pieces where you cast off for armholes = 301-337-361-397-433 sts. Insert a marking thread in all transitions between sleeves and body pieces = 4 marking threads. Continue in pattern, at the same time dec for raglan on every other row – see Decreasing tips – as follows:
Towards the sleeves: on every other row 25-25-28-28-26 times and then on every row 0-3-0-3-8 times.
Towards the body pieces: on every other row 24-26-26-22-19 times and then on every row 0-1-4-14-23 times.
At the same time when piece measures 54-56-58-60-62 cm put the outermost 10-11-12-12-12 sts each side on a thread for neck. Dec to shape the neckline on every other row 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times. After all inc for raglan and neck are complete = 73-83-93-93-93 sts left on needle and piece measures approx 60-62-64-66-68 cm.
Neck: Pick up approx 18 to 20 sts on each neckline (incl sts on thread) = approx 109 to 133 sts. Knit 1 row whilst dec evenly to 95-95-101-101-107 sts (do not dec over the 13 sts each side towards mid front). Now knit 2 rows Rib *K1, P1* (knit front edge as before), 1 row stocking sts and continue in M.1 (continue to knit front edge as before). Cast off loosely when M.1 measures 6 cm.

Assembly: Sew the openings under arms and sew on buttons.

Diagram explanations
symbol = K from RS, P from WS
symbol = P from RS, K from WS

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