DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 1.35 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.35£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Winter Lodge

Knitted jacket for men, with shawl collar and Nordic pattern in DROPS Alaska

DROPS 85-15
DROPS design: Model no. X-288
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Sizes: (12/14 yr old) S/M - L - XL - XXL
Materials: DROPS Alaska from Garnstudio
(700) 850-950-1050-1150 g colour no. 02, off white
(50) 100-100-100-100 g colour no. 49, light brown
(50) 100-100-100-100 g colour no. 50, dark brown
and use: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
50 g colour no. 100, off white (for lining)

DROPS Circular needle sizes 3 mm, 4 mm and 5 mm.
DROPS Double pointed needles sizes 4 mm and 5 mm.
DROPS Crochet hook size 4 mm.
DROPS Wooden toggle, no. 520: 4 items.

Knitting tension: Remember needle size is only a guide! 17 sts x 22 rows with needle size 5 mm and stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 1.35 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.35£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Rib: * K 3, P 2 *, repeat from *-*.

Garter st (back and forth on needle): 1 ridge = 2 rows, 1st row: K, 2nd row K.
Garter st (on circular needle): 1 ridge = 2 rounds, 1st round: P, 2nd round: K..

Pattern: See diagram M.1. The whole pattern is worked in stocking st.

Body: The jacket is worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on (155) 170-180-190-210 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 4 mm and off white Alaska. Work 1 ridge, then work rib as follows (seen from RS): 1 edge st, * K 3, P 2 *, repeat from *-*, finish with K 3 and 1 edge st. When the rib piece measures (4) 5 cm change to circular needle size 5 mm and work 1 ridge, at the same time adjusting the no. of sts to (155) 167-179-191-207 sts on ridge’s 1st row. Continue to work stocking st. Insert 1 marker thread (39) 42-45-48-52 sts in from each side = (77) 83-89-95-103 sts between marker threads mid back. Remember knitting tension! When piece measures (5) 6-6-6-10 cm inc 1 st each side of marker threads in each side every (3.5.) 7-7-8-10 cm in total (3) 3-3-3-2 times = (167) 179-191-203-215 sts. When piece measures (13) 21-22-23-24 cm work M.1 with 1 edge st in each side towards mid front. At the same time, when piece measures (33) 41-42-43-44 cm work the next row as follows (from RS): (39) 42-45-48-51 sts (= right front piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole, work (77) 83-89-95-101 sts (= back piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole, work (39) 42-45-48-51 sts (= left front piece). Each piece is finished separately.

Left front piece: = (39) 42-45-48-51 sts. Continue to cast off for armhole in side every 2nd row: 2 sts (1) 1-1-2-2 times and 1 st (4) 2-3-3-4 times. At the same time when piece measures (36) 43-44-45-47 cm cast off towards the neck every 2nd row: 1 st (12) 14-14-15-15 times = (21) 24-26-26-28 sts remain on shoulder. Cast off the remaining sts when piece measures (54) 64-66-68-70 cm.

Right front piece: = (39) 42-45-48-51 sts. Work as for right front piece but cast off for armhole and neck on opposite side.

Back piece: = (77) 83-89-95-101 sts. Continue to cast off for armholes in each side as for front piece = (65) 75-79-81-85 sts remain on needle. When piece measures (52) 62-64-66-68 cm cast off the middle (19) 23-23-25-25 sts for neck. Continue to cast off towards neck every 2nd row: 1 st (2) 2 times = (21) 24-26-26-28 sts remain on each shoulder. Cast off remaining sts when piece measures (54) 64-66-68-70 cm.

Sleeves: Cast on (40) 40-45-45-45 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm and off white Alaska and work 1 ridge, then work rib until the piece measures (5) 6 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 5 mm and work 1 ridge while at the same time adjusting no. of sts to (38) 40-43-43-43 sts on ridge’s 1st row. Continue working stocking st. When the piece measures (10) 8-8-12-11 cm, inc 2 sts mid under arm every (2.5) 2.5-2.5-2-2 cm in total (14) 17-17-18-20 times = (66) 74-77-79-83 sts. At the same time when piece measures (17) 18-18-19-19 cm, work M.1 (work the inc sts into pattern). When piece measures (47) 50-50-51-51 cm cast off 6 sts mid under arm and finish working back and forth on needle. Continue to cast off for sleeve cap in each side every 2nd row: 3 sts (2) 2 times, 2 sts (2) 2-2-3-4 times, 1 st (2) 1 time, then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures (55) 57-58-60-61 cm then cast off 3 sts (1) 1 time in each side. Cast off the remaining sts when piece measures approx. (56) 58-59-61-62 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams.

Band: Pick up 209 - 319 sts (divisible by 5 + 4) along right front piece, continue back of neck and down left front piece with circular needle size 4 mm and off white Alaska. Work 1 row K from WS and 1 row K from RS. Then continue with rib with K 3, P 3 and 3 ridge sts in each side (seen from RS). When rib piece measures (6) 7 cm (incl ridge) inc on next row on WS all P 3 to P 4 across middle 38 sts, this is done so that the band will lie neatly. When piece measures (8) 9 cm (incl ridge), loosely cast off with K over K and P over P.

Lining: To cover the pick-up edge on inside of band. Pick up 300 - 400 sts with off white Alpaca and needle size 3 mm along inside of band – picked up in 1st row of band and worked inwards towards body. Work 4 rows stocking st, loosely cast off. Fasten lining neatly inside 1 st on body.

Loops: Crochet 4 button loops on right front piece with off white Alaska and crochet hook size 4 mm. 1 loop = 1 dc in outermost st of band, 7 ch, skip 1 st, 1 dc.

The top loop is worked where the slope for the neck starts, then each loop is worked further down with approx (5) 6 cm gap.

Sew in sleeves. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

symbols = off white
symbols = beige
symbols = dark brown
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 85-15

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Comments / Questions (18)

country flag Loelia wrote:

Good morning, would it be possible to know how much yarn is needed for just the shawl collar as I would like to make this in a contrasting colour. By collar I mean the rib all the way from the bottom front up and round the neck and back down the other side (not just the rib at the neckline). Many thanks.

09.07.2024 - 10:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Loelia, please understand that a) this pattern was designed many years ago, b) we have thousands of patterns available on our site, thus we are sorry, but we cannot modify them to each individual request, like redesigning and recalculating the collar). Happy Knitting!

09.07.2024 - 14:32

country flag Amanda Karlsson wrote:

Does the pattern continue after I have separated the fronts from the back?

18.01.2023 - 11:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Karlsson, yes, if the diagram M.1 is not done when you divide piece, continue the pattern on each front pieces/back piece - making sure to line it up over the first part before dividing. Happy knitting!

18.01.2023 - 16:59

country flag Joan Høst wrote:

Hvad er en ærmepind. Skal/kan man strikke ærmerne på rundpind?

03.01.2023 - 14:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Joan, det er samme som strømpepinde, du kan vælge at strikke på strømpepinde eller lille rundpind :)

05.01.2023 - 10:35

country flag Joan Høst wrote:

Man skal på ryg og forstykke starte med at tage ud når arbejdet måler 6 cm (str. XL) Når I skriver arbejdet er det så hele arbejdet eller er det efter ribben? Når jeg har strikket ribben og 2 p retstrik måler arbejdet allerede 7 cm

10.11.2022 - 19:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Joan, det er hele arbejdet (incl ribben), se også måleskitsen nederst i opskriften :)

11.11.2022 - 14:58

country flag Coulom Jacqueline wrote:

Je ne comprends pas les explications lors de l'assemblage: relever 209mailles ou 319 mailles? faut-il relever 209 mailles sur chaque devant et 110mailles sur le dos? ça me semble beaucoup! laine de belle qualité qui fait un excellent tricot. merci pour ce complément d'information.

24.10.2022 - 13:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Coulom, en fonction de la taille tricotée et de votre tension en hauteur (votre nombre de rangs le long des devants), vous devrez relever entre 209 et 319 mailles, veillez juste bien à ce que votre nombre de mailles soit multiple de 5 + 4 pour que les côtes tombent juste ensuite. Bon tricot!

24.10.2022 - 16:23

country flag Nathan wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne suis pas sûr de comprendre ce passage : (ASSEMBLAGE) "Avec le fil Naturel Alpaca et les aiguilles 3 relever sur la bordure extérieure de la bordure de boutonnage env 300-400 m." Sur quelle portion des côtes dois-je relever ces 300-400m ? Tout le tour ? Seulement un côté ? Les deux ? Le reste du gilet s'est fait tout seul, Alaska est très agréable à tricoter ! Merci d'avance pour votre réponse.

05.12.2019 - 15:34

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nathan, cette partie a été reformulée pour qu'elle soit plus claire, vous allez en fait faire une sorte de petite "doublure" sur l'envers pour cacher les mailles relevées des bordures des devants et du col: vous relevez les mailles sur l'envers tout le long de la bordure en côtes (dans le 1er rang rang des bordures devants/le col) et assemblez cette petite partie de l'autre côté des mailles relevées (côté dos cette fois). En espérant que ces explications supplémentaires vous aideront. Bon tricot!

06.12.2019 - 08:43

country flag Doris Steinmayr wrote:

Ich habe Probleme mit den Ärmeln, wie teile ich das Muster ein, wenn ich alle 5 Reihe 2 Maschen zunehme

10.09.2018 - 11:48

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Steinmayr, am Anfang der Runde werden die Maschen in M.1 wie die letzten Maschen im Diagram gestrickt und am Ende der Runde werden die Maschen in M.1 wie die ersten Maschen im Diagram gestrickt, so haben Sie immer mehr Maschen in M.1 gestrickt und das Muster wird herum gestrickt. Diese Lektion kann Ihnen damit helfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.09.2018 - 08:58

country flag Eva Karlsen wrote:

Når en har lagt til stolpen , blir ikke da vidden på forstykkene for stor i forhold til ryggen ?? Er dette regnet med i måleskjema ??

28.07.2016 - 13:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Eva, ja det stemmer, det er meningen at den skal overlappe foran. God fornøjelse!

22.12.2016 - 09:45

country flag Anja wrote:

Hallo Ich möchte mit dem Schalkragen starten. Gemäss Anleitung muss die Zahl der aufzunehmenden Maschen durch 5 und 4 teilbar sein. 209 und 319 sind nicht durch 4 und 5 teilbar, wohl aber zB 320. Bin ich in dem korrekt oder habe ich da was falsch verstanden. Hat es am Schalkragen auch Randmaschen zu beachten? Vielen Dank für Ihre Rückmeldung.

05.11.2015 - 23:28

DROPS Design answered:

"5 + 4" bedeutet, dass die Maschenzahl durch 5 teilbar sein muss und dann noch 4 M übrig sein müssen. 209 = 41 x 5 + 4 und 319 = 63 x 5 + 4. Die Randmaschen sind in den Schalkragen-Maschen enthalten.

07.11.2015 - 12:14

country flag Anja wrote:

Hallo Ich möchte mit dem Schalkragen starten. Gemäss Anleitung muss die Zahl der aufzunehmenden Maschen durch 5 und 4 teilbar sein. 209 und 319 sind nicht durch 4 und 5 teilbar, wohl aber zB 320. Bin ich in dem korrekt oder habe ich da was falsch verstanden. Hat es am Schalkragen auch Randmaschen zu beachten? Vielen Dank für Ihre Rückmeldung.

05.11.2015 - 22:41

DROPS Design answered:

Antwort siehe oben! :-)

07.11.2015 - 12:14