DROPS Baby / 14 / 16

Baby Aviator Hat by DROPS Design

Set of knitted helm hat, scarf and gloves for baby in DROPS Alpaca. Sizes from 1 month to 4 years.

Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 years)

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
100-100-100 (150-150) g colour no 6205, light blue

DROPS pointed and double pointed needles size 2.5mm

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Alpaca
from 2.25 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 2.25 £ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 2.30 £ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 26 sts x 52 rows on needles size 2.5mm in garter sts = 10 x 10 cm.

Garter sts (back and forth on needle): Knit all sts.

Tube knitting: *K1, put thread in front of piece, slip 1 st as if to purl, put thread behind piece*, repeat from *-* on all rows. This creates a round string.


HAT:
Cast on 33-38-42 (46-50) sts on needle size 2.5mm. Knit garter sts, at the same time inc 1 st at the right side and dec 1 st at the left side as follows:
1st row (=right side): K2, yo (= 1 inc), knit until there are 4 sts left on row and K2 tog, K2.
2nd row (=wrong side): Knit (knit yo into back of st).
Repeat these two rows until piece measures 5.5-6-6.5 (7-8) cm. Now dec 1 st at the right side and inc 1 st at the left side as follows:
Right side: K1, slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso, knit until there are 2 sts left, yo, K2
Wrong side: Knit (knit yo into back of st).
Repeat these two rows until piece measures 11-12-13 (14-16) cm. Continue to inc 1 st at the right side on every 4th row and dec 1 st at the left side on every other row until piece measures 15.5-16.5-17.5 (18-19) cm. Insert a marking thread each side. Continue as follows: Dec 1 st at the right side on every 4th row and inc 1 st at the left side on every other row until piece measures 21-21-22 (22-22) cm. Now dec 1 st at the left side on every other row and inc 1 st at the right side on every other row until piece measures 25.5-27-28.5 (29-30) cm. Dec 1 st at the right side on every other row and inc 1 st at the left side on every other row until finished measurements. = 31-33-35 (36-38) cm. Cast off.

Assembly: Back of hat = the side of piece with 2 whole points and 2 half points. The middle of the 3 whole points on the other side of the hat = point sitting at the middle of the forehead.
Sew seams together with small, neat sts as follows: Sew tog back of hat by sewing tog the first half point with the first half of the first whole point. Now sew tog the other half of the first whole point with the first half of the second whole point. Now sew tog the other half of the second whole point with the last half of point. Sew hat tog mid back.

String: Cast on 4 sts on needle size 2.5mm. Knit tube as described above. Cast off when tube measures approx 16-18-20 (22-24) cm. Knit another tube and attach strings to each side of hat.



SCARF:

Cast on 4 sts on needle size 2.5mm and knit garter sts, at the same time increasing as follows:
Right side: Knit 2 sts in first st
Left side: Knit 2 sts in last but one st.
Inc on every other row a total of 10-11-12 (13-14) times = 24-26-28 (30-32) sts. Knit garter sts until piece measures 8-9-10 (11-12) cm.
Knit next row as follows:
*K1, put 1 st on safety pin (or cable needle) behind the piece*, repeat from *-* until the end of row. There are now 12-13-14 (15-16) sts on row and 12-13-14 (15-15) sts on safety pin/cable needle. Knit 4-4-4 (5-5) cm garter sts over sts on needle and put these on a new safety pin/cable needle. Put sts from the first safety pin/cable needle back on needle and knit garter sts over these until this piece is of the same length. Put the 2 pieces together again by knitting 1 st from needle and 1 st from safety pin/cable needle alternately until all sts are back on needle = 24-26-28 (30-32) sts.
Knit garter sts until piece measures 40-42-46 (50-54) cm.
Now dec each side by knitting tog the last 2 but one sts on every row until there are 4 sts left.
Cast off. The scarf measures approx 44-47-51 (55-60) cm.



MITTENS:

Garter sts (on circular needle): Knit 1st round, purl 2nd row.

The 3 bigger sizes with thumbs, the 2 smaller sizes without.
The mitten is knitted round on double pointed needles.
Loosely cast on 34-36-38 (40-42) sts with Alpaca on needles size 2.5mm and knit 12 rounds garter sts – see explanation above – at the same time on the last round dec evenly to 28-30-32 (34-36) sts. Continue in Rib with K1/P1.
When piece measures 3-3-3 (4-4) cm knit garter sts, at the same time on 1st round increasing evenly to 30-33-36 (39-42) sts – insert a marker and measure piece from here from now on.

The 3 bigger sizes: After 1 (2-3) cm, put the last 5 (5-6) sts on round on a thread for thumb. Cast on 5 (5-6) new sts over the thread on next row.

All sizes: When piece measures 6-7-8 (9-10) cm dec as follows on next knitted round: *K1, K2 tog*, repeat from *-* until the end of round = 20-22-24 (26-28) sts.
*Purl 1 round, on next round knit tog all sts 2 and 2*, repeat from *-* 1 more time. Pull a double strand of Alpaca through remaining sts, pull tight and sew.

Thumb: Put the 5 (5-6) sts from thread back on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and pick up 6 (6-7) sts behind these = 11 (11-13) sts. Knit garter sts until thumb measures 3 (4-5) cm. Now knit all sts tog 2 and 2. Pull thread through remaining sts and sew.

Knit another mitten, but knit the thumb the other side (applies to the 3 bigger sizes).

String: Cast on 4 sts using Alpaca on needles size 2.5 mm and knit a tube as follows: *K1, put thread in front of piece, slip 1 st as if to purl, put thread behind piece*, repeat from *-* on all rows until string measures approx 62-67-74 (86-96) cm (length between child’s wrists). Cast off and attach string to each mitten.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 14-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (123)

Emelie 19.10.2019 - 20:14:

Ni kan ju för sjutton inte skriva ”avmaska” istället för ”minska” i mönstret. Avmaska gör man i yttre kanten och minskning gör man ett par maskor in. Kul. Nu får jag repa upp halva arbetet för det ser ut som skit. Anstränger ni er med flit för att göra så att eramönster inte ska gå att följa? Jag är inte nybörjare men det här börjar ju bli löjligt. Jag är så himla arg på er

Kirsten Dyhrberg Grønne 27.08.2019 - 17:26:

Forklaringen på at det er mærkeligt med hver 4. pind, er fordi retpinde er jo de ulige pinde, så menes der hver 4. retpind? , men så bliver der langt mellem indtagningerne. Og hvorfor står der pludselig hver 2. pind og ikke som først 1. pind og 2. pind? For den skal jo være symmetrisk, ikke?

DROPS Design 26.09.2019 kl. 10:11:

Hej Kirsten, jo da det stemmer. Se her: Hvordan strikker man djævlehuen Aviator hat Men det er vigtigt at du har 26 m og 52 pinde på 10x10 cm. God fornøjelse!

Sarah 21.08.2019 - 17:19:

Ich verstehe die Anleitung für den Schal nicht. Wenn ich am Anfang einer rechten und am Ende einer linken Reihe zunehme kriegt die Arbeit doch "Schlagseite" und sieht nicht so aus wie der Schal werden sollte (Pfeilspitzenförmige Enden).... Oder missverstehe ich die Anleitung?

DROPS Design 22.08.2019 kl. 09:28:

Liebe Sarah, könnte vielleicht Ihnen dieses Video helfen? Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Dianne Ogg 20.07.2019 - 07:49:

This pattern is gobbledegook It is wrong Waste of time!!

Zaida 19.04.2019 - 21:29:

Porque no puedo escuchar el video del gorro casco

DROPS Design 20.04.2019 kl. 20:05:

Hola Zaida. Los vídeos de Drops no tienen sonido porque son los mismos para todos los idiomas. Tienes las explicaciones en castellano bajo el video.

Jordan 08.04.2019 - 16:16:

I knitted the hat for 0-3 months and it is very crooked and uneven. Is it suppose to be that uneven?

DROPS Design 08.04.2019 kl. 16:28:

Dear Jordan, this video shows how to work this hat. Happy knitting!

Evy 29.12.2018 - 20:45:

Nem opskrift at følge, ligesom den jeg har strikket utallige gange før.

Kitty 16.12.2018 - 18:47:

Jeg betragter mig som en ganske habil strikker, men denne opskrift har jeg måttet give op over for og strikket huen efter en anden opskrift, men med mange mange ærgelser undervejs. Slet ikke den sædvanlige standart af Drop opskrifter.

Anna 12.12.2018 - 18:12:

Buonasera! Per la taglia 3/4 anni del cappello la striscia misura 38 cm di lunghezza ma di larghezza quanto misura? Grazie per la risposta!!

Aira Mummo 27.11.2018 - 09:22:

Korkeus on sanottu senttimetreinä, vaan mitenkä pitkä on yksi kerros esim. pienimmässä koossa?

DROPS Design 20.12.2018 kl. 13:37:

Hei, mikäli neuletiheytesi on oikea, 5,2 kerrosta vastaa noin yhtä senttimetriä. Voit tarkistaa kaikki mitat neuletiheydestä.

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