DROPS Baby / 13 / 13

Little Alfred by DROPS Design

Jacket and soft toy in Alpaca

Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 –3/4 years)
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80 (86/92 – 98/104)

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
100-150-150 (150-200) g colour no 0302, camel
100-150-150 (150-200) g colour no 0618, beige-mix
DROPS wooden button, no 513, 5-5-5 (6-6) pcs

DROPS pointed needle size 4mm and 3.5mm (for Rib)

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 19 sts x 25 in garter sts with 2 strands of Alpaca in stocking sts on needle size 4mm = 10 x 10 cm.

Rib: *K3, P3*, repeat from *-*
Front edge: Knitted in garter sts until finished measurements. To ensure a neat finish, knit the edge a little tight and knit the first 2 sts towards mid front with 4 strands of Alpaca throughout (use a separate ball and let the thread follow the piece as you progress).

Buttonhole: Make buttonholes on right front edge from mid front as follows: K2, K2 tog, yo, K3. Make buttonholes as follows:
Size 1/3 months: 2, 7, 12 and 17 cm
Size 6/9 months: 2, 7, 13, and 18 cm
Size 12/18 months: 2, 9, 15 and 21 cm
Size 2 years: 2, 8, 14, 20 and 25 cm
Size 3/4 years: 2, 9, 16, 23 and 30 cm

Back piece: Cast on 53-59-65 (71-77) sts (incl 1 edge st each side) with 1 strand of each Alpaca colour (= double thread) on needle size 3.5mm and knit 2 rows garter sts. Continue as follows from the right side:
Size 1/3 months, 12/18 months, Size 3/4 years: 1 edge st, *K3, P3*, repeat from *-* and finish with K3, 1 edge st.
Size 6/9 months, Size 2 years: 1 edge st, *P3, K3*, repeat from *-* and finish with P3, 1 edge st.
When Rib measures 6 cm, knit 1 row from right side and knit 1 row from wrong side. Change to needle size 4mm and continue in stocking sts, at the same time on 1st row adjusting number of sts to 51-57-63 (69-75). When piece measures 19-20-23 (27-30) cm dec each side for armhole on every other row as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-1-2 (2-2) times and 1 st 3-4-3 (3-3) times = 35-39-43 (49-55) sts. When piece measures 28-30-34 (39-43) cm cast off the middle 15-17-17 (19-19) sts for neck. On next row dec 1 st to shape the neckline = 9-10-12 (14-17) sts left on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 30-32-36 (41-45) cm.

Right front: Cast on 32-35-38 (41-44) sts (incl 1 edge st at side and 7 front edge sts towards mid front) with 1 strand of each Alpaca colour (= double thread) on needle size 3.5mm and knit 2 rows garter sts. Note! Knit the 2 sts towards mid front with 4 strands – see above. Continue as follows: 7 front edge sts in garter sts, *K3, P3*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 edge st. At the same time, when piece measures 2-2-2 (2-2) cm make a buttonhole – see above.
When piece measures 6 cm knit 1 row from right side and knit 1 row from wrong side. Change to needle size 4mm and continue in stocking sts, at the same time on 1st row adjusting number of sts to 30-33-36 (39-42). When piece measures 19-20-23 (27-30) cm cast off at side for armhole as described for back piece. At the same time, inc number of sts in garter sts by 1 on every 4th row a total of 6-7-7 (8-8) times Note! Do NOT inc but knit an extra stocking st in garter st on every 4th row = 13-14-14 (15-15) sts in garter sts on front edge. When piece measures 30-32-36 (41-45) cm cast off the outermost 9-10-12 (14-17) for shoulder and continue in garter sts over remaining 13-14-14 (15-15) sts as follows: *2 rows garter sts over all sts, 2 rows garter sts over only the outermost 7-8-8 (9-9) sts*, repeat from *-* until collar measures approx 4.5-5-5 (5.5-5.5) cm from shoulder. Put sts on a thread.

Left front: Cast on and knit as right front, but mirrored. NB! Do not make buttonholes!

Sleeve: Cast on 32-38-38 (44-44) sts with 1 strand of each Alpaca colour (= double thread) on needle size 3.5mm and knit 2 rows garter sts. Continue in Rib with 1 edge st each side. When Rib measures 11 cm knit 1 row from right side and knit 1 row from wrong side. Change to needle size 4mm and continue in stocking sts. At the same time after the Rib inc 1 st each side on every 3-5-3 (5-3.5) cm a total of 4-3-5 (4-6) times = 40-44-48 (52-56) sts. When piece measures 22-24-25 (29-32) cm dec for sleeve cap each side on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-1-2 (2-3) times, 1 st 4-4-3 (3-2) times and 2 sts each side until piece measures 27-29-31 (35-38) cm. Now dec 3 sts 1 time and cast off remaining sts when piece measures 28-30-32 (36-39) cm.

Pocket: Cast on 17-18-19 (20-22) sts with 1 strand of each Alpaca colour (= double thread) on needle size 4mm and knit 9-10-10 (11-12) cm garter sts. Cast off. Fold the upper 2 cm towards right side and sew on a button to keep the edge in place. Sew on the pocket on right front piece approx 8-8-9 (9-10) cm from lower edge.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Sew collar mid back (sts from thread) with neat sts and sew collar to back piece. Sew in sleeves and sew sleeve and side seams within 1 edge st. Sew on buttons. Fold Rib at sleeve edges.

SOFT TOY: see pattern 13-08

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 07.09.2010
Right front: ...At the same time, when piece measures 2-2-2 (2-2) cm make a buttonhole – see above.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 13-13) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (40)

Lisa 12.05.2020 - 08:06:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage bezüglich der Ärmelabnahmen. Es steht in jeder 2. Reihe abketten was ja bedeuted. Hinreihe 3M, Rückreihe 3M, nächste Hinreihe 2M, Rückreihe 2M und so weiter. Danach steht bis auf 35cm auf jeder seite jeweils 2M abketten, was ja eigentlich das selbe. Ist, oder verstehe ich da was falsch? Ist ein bischen verwirrend. Danke

DROPS Design 12.05.2020 kl. 09:48:

Liebe Lisa, ja genau so soll man die Maschen bei den Ärmel, abketten. Beachten Sie nur, daß Sie genauso viele Maschen beidseiting abgekettet haben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Clare Tees 04.04.2020 - 01:46:

Right front talks about an edge stitch - does it his refer to the actual cast on row or the first row and what is it? I can’t find any tutorial on this! Please explain the beginning of the instructions for this piece. Thanks

DROPS Design 05.04.2020 kl. 17:02:

Hello Clare Tees! Please read about "Front edge: " at the beginning of the pattern. Edge stitch is usually knitted garter sts until finished measurements. Happy knitting!

Hanne Christina Dahlqvist Iversen 30.01.2020 - 16:04:

Hej\r\nJeg strikker LITTLE ALFRED og jeg mener, at der mangler forklaring på, hvad der skal ske med de 14 masker, man sætter på en tråd ved afslutningen af hvert forstykke - I monteringsanvisningen står der ikke noget om, hvad der skal ske med disse 14 masker, der er sat på tråd på hvert forstykke , og hvordan trøjen færdiggøres ved halsen - Jeg kan jo ikke bare sy trøjen sammen og lade 14 masker ligge på en tråd på hver forkant. Mange hilsner Hanne Christina

Raffaella Dell'Anno 09.12.2019 - 10:47:

Buon giorno vorrei fare lo stesso modello pero colori sul blu qual colori dovrei mettere insieme per avere lo stesso risultato? cioe vorrei sapere i due colori sul blu del filato alpaca da unire insieme grazie per la vs risposta

DROPS Design 16.12.2019 kl. 14:59:

Buongiorno Raffaella. la scelta dei colori è sempre molto personale. Le suggeriamo di rivolgersi al suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia che saprà aiutarla e consigliarla al meglio. Buon lavoro!

Magda Sleurink 11.05.2019 - 11:34:

Volgens mij ontbreekt een gedeelte van het patroon bij het achterpand, omdat de naad middenachter sluiten onmogelijk is wegens gebrek aan gedeelte kraag als je het patroon volgt. Zelf heb ik een stukje van 5 cm moeten aanbreien aan het achterpand om de middenachternaad te kunnen sluiten

Catherine 11.04.2019 - 20:16:

Hallo was ist mit "Krausrippe über alle M, 1 Kraussippe nur über die äussersten 7-8-8 (9-9)" gemeint? Danke, LG

DROPS Design 12.04.2019 kl. 08:51:

Liebe Catherine, für den Kragen beim rechten Vorderteil beginnen die verkürzten Reihen mit einer Hinreihe = *2 Reihen über alle Maschen, 2 Maschen über die ersten 7-8-9 (siehe Grösse) Maschen*, diese 7-8-9 M sind die ersten Maschen der Hinreihe = Blende/Kragen die gegen die Jackeöffnung sind. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

LAURENT 22.01.2019 - 08:51:

Bonjour, Je souhaite réaliser ce modèle, mais je me demande pourquoi il n'y a pas le patron des mesures comme habituellement ? Merci pour votre partage, Maria

DROPS Design 23.01.2019 kl. 10:07:

Bonjour Maria, le schéma des mesures va être ajouté, merci. Bon tricot!

GOOSENS 15.03.2018 - 17:39:

Où puis je trouver l'explication pour le col et le bordure devant ?

DROPS Design 16.03.2018 kl. 09:12:

Bonjour Mme Goosens, la bordure devant et le col se tricotent en même temps que le devant = 7 m de bordure devant en début de rang sur l'endroit pour le devant droit. Bon tricot!

Maria Susana Martos 21.09.2017 - 12:11:

Buenos dias. Por favor, podria explicar mejor la terminación o el cierre de los puntos del cuello? Porque aparentemente se dejan en una aguja auxiliar........No lo tengo muy claro. Vi el video de ustedes de "cuello chal facil" pero aunque es mas sencillo que el de este modelo, me gusta menos. Muchas Gracias!

DROPS Design 24.09.2017 kl. 18:15:

Hola Maria. Los puntos del cuello se dejan en una aguja auxiliar para trabajar después la unión invisible ( tipo grafting).

Emelie 14.10.2016 - 23:50:

Hej! När man ska maska av för ärmkullen på den minsta storleken stämmer inte beskrivningen, tror jag. Det står att man efter ett visst antal avmaskningar ska fortsätta att maska av med två i var sida tills arbetet mäter 27 cm. Innan man börjar med det mäter arbetet redan 27 cm, vilket leder till att det ju blir för många maskor kvar till den slutliga avmaskningen. Det går ju att fortsätta lite på måfå, men det skulle hjälpa om man visste hur många maskor man ska ha kvar inför sista avmaskning.

DROPS Design 20.10.2016 kl. 16:38:

Hej Emelie. Ja, du sidder lige omkring de 27 cm med den rette strikkefasthed i den mindste störrelse, saa jeg ville springe dette over i den mindste str og gaa direkte til at lukke 3 m af i hver side.

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