Arrowheart by DROPS Design

DROPS Crochet top in Cotton Viscose and Vienna or BabyMerino and Melody.

DROPS 95-37
Size: XS/S – S/M – M/L - L/XL – XXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 84-92-100-112-126 cm = 33”-36 1/4”-39 3/8”-44”-49 1/2”
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

Materials: DROPS Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio
150-200-200-200-250 g color no. 11, khaki green
and use
DROPS Vienna from Garnstudio
50-50-50-50-50 g color no. 16, moss green

Or use:
DROPS Baby Merino from Garnstudio
100-100-150-150-200 g color no. 47, north sea
and use
DROPS Melody from Garnstudio
50-50-50-50-50 g color no. 08, petrol

DROPS Crochet Hook size 4 mm = US 6
DROPS Crochet Hook size 6 mm = US J/10 (for borders and straps)


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


DROPS Cotton Viscose DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
find alternatives
DROPS Vienna DROPS Vienna
91% Mohair, 9% Polyester
find alternatives
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Crochet Gauge: width of 17 tr and 6 rows on crochet hook size 4 = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NB: Because of different crochet techniques used by the individual, the gauge may vary, so you might have to drop/go up a hook size to obtain the correct gauge.

Crochet info: At the beginning of each row replace the 1st tr with 4 ch, and finish each row with 1 tr in 4th ch from beginning of previous row. Crochet in each st and not in between.

Decreasing tips (applies to side): Because you increase 2 tr continuously mid front, you need to dec 1 tr each side to keep number of sts constant. When you then have to dec each side to decrease number of sts, do this by dec 1 extra tr each side. Dec 1 tr by crocheting 2 tr together as follows: crochet 1 tr but wait with last yo and pull through (= 2 sts on hook), crochet 1 tr and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.

Increasing tips: Inc sts at the bottom of armhole each side as follows: Crochet a chain of ch at the end of the row before the row you need to increase on. Crochet 16-22-22-24-34 ch, turn the piece and crochet back as follows: 1 tr in the 6th ch from hook, *skip 1 ch, 1 tr in next ch*, repeat from *-* = 7-10-10-11-16 tr increased for armhole. Continue as before with 1 tr in each tr from previous row.

Front piece: The top is crochet from top down. Crochet 36-38-40-44-46 ch using crochet hook size 4 and Cotton Viscose or Baby Merino.
Crochet the 1st row as follows: 1 tr in the 5th ch from the hook, 1 tr in each of the next 14-15-16-18-19 ch, 3 tr in next ch, 1 tr in each of the remaining 16-17-18-20-21 ch = 35-37-39-43-45 tr. Insert a marking thread in the middle tr.
Read all of the following section before continuing.
Crochet tr’s – read Crochet info.
Sloping effect: At the same time inc mid front to obtain a sloping effect by crocheting 3 tr in the tr with the marking thread – continue the increase on every row.

Armhole: At the same time inc for armhole each side on every row by crocheting an extra tr in the outermost tr each side a total of 5-5-6-7-7 times (after the last inc, insert a new marking thread in piece and measure piece from this point form now on). Crochet 7-10-10-11-16 new tr – see Increasing tips above – for armhole. After all inc for armhole there are 71-79-85-95-107 tr on row. Continue with tr's as before with increases mid front but now dec at side to keep number of sts constant – see Decreasing tips. At the same time when piece measures approx 7-7-8-8-10 cm = 2 3/4”-2 3/4”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-4” (from the new marking thread) dec 1 extra tr each side on every other row a total of 4 times – see Decreasing tips = 63-71-77-87-99 tr. When piece measures approx 22-23-23-24-25 cm = 8 3/4”-9”-9”-9 1/2”-9 3/4” (the increases at sides are now finished) continue over the 63-71-77-87-99 tr with 1 tr in each tr, i.e. discontinue increases mid front and decreases at sides. When piece measures approx 38-39-39-40-41 cm = 15”-15 1/4”-15 1/4”-15 3/4”-16 1/8” cut the thread – piece measures approx 48-49-51-53-54 cm = 19”-19 1/4”-20”-21”-21 1/4” where widest.

Back piece: Crochet as front piece.

Assembly: Sew side seams.
Crochet border: Crochet a border round neckline on front and back pieces using crochet hook size 6 mm = US J/10 and Vienna or Melody as follows: 1 sl st in first tr, 1 ch, 1 sc in between 1st and 2nd tr, *1 ch, 1 sc between the next 2 tr*, repeat from *-* and finish with a sl st in last tr on row.

Shoulder straps: Crochet 1 sl st at the top on the right side of back piece, crochet a chain of ch approx 12-14-14-14-16 cm = 4 3/4”-5 1/2”-5 1/2”-5 1/2”-6 1/4” long (or desired length, try on the top), attach with 1 sl st at the top on the right side of front piece. Crochet another chain (to make the strap double) and attach with a sl st on back piece. Repeat on left side.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 95-37) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (52)

country flag Sylvaine wrote:

Bonjour, je suis bloquée pour les augmentations.. faire une chaînette à chaque fin de rang mais le rang avant les augmentations.., ok mais si c’est en fin de rang pour les 2 augmentations il y a un décalage d’un rang entre le côté droit et le côté gauche. Pouvez vous m’expliquer ? Par avance merci

13.05.2022 - 16:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylvaine, cette différence ne se verra qu'à peine à la fin, mais si vous préférez, vous pouvez couper le fil en fin de rang, et commencer le rang suivant par le nombre de chainettes à faire pour augmenter, crocheter le rang comme avant et terminer par les mailles en l'air des augmentations, ainsi vous aurez vos deux augmentations exactement au même niveau. Bon crochet!

13.05.2022 kl. 16:26

country flag Angelika Esselborn wrote:

Habe 36 lm angeschlagen, dann in jeder Reihe in die mittlere Masche 3 Datei gehäkelt und 5 x in jeder 2. Reihe am Anfang und am Ende je 1 Masche verdoppelt. Habe jetzt 65 Maschen. Wenn ich die je 7 dst für Arm dazurechne komme ich auf 78 dst beschrieben werden 71 was mache ich falsch?

29.06.2021 - 14:19

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Esselborn, Sie beginnen mit 35 DStb, nehmen in der Mitte 2 DStb bei jeder Reihe x 6 Reihe = 12 Zunahmen, nehmen beidseitig 1 DStb 5 x zu (= 10 Zunahmen) und nehmen beidseitig 7 DStb zu (= 14 Zunahmen) = 35+12+10+14=71 Doppelstäbchen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

29.06.2021 kl. 15:54

country flag Ana Arres wrote:

Ya he leído los típs de aumento de las sisas, pero no entiendo cómo hacer la segunda porque si lo hago como dice la segunda sisa aumenta en la siguiente vuelta. Gracias

14.02.2021 - 00:47

country flag Stephanie Basting wrote:

Ich bräuchte dringend Hilfe. Und zwar bin ich im letzten Abschnitt und hier steht das die Zu und Abnahmen beendet sind. Bedeutet das, dass man jetzt auch in der Mitte keine 2 zusätzlichen Stäbchen mehr häkelt und am Rand 2 zusammen häkelt??

07.02.2021 - 13:09

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Basting, ja genau, jetzt häkeln Sie einfach 1 Doppelstäbchen in jedes Doppelstäbchen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

08.02.2021 kl. 09:43

country flag Lydia wrote:

Ich verstehe leider die Rechnung der ersten Reihe nicht! Wie komme ich bei 40 angeschlagenen Lm bei der ersten Reihe auf 39 Stb?

13.08.2020 - 16:03

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Lydia, Sie haben 40 Luftmaschen und häkeln 1 Doppel-Stb in die 5. Lm von der Nadel (= 2 Doppel-Stb), 1 Doppel-Stb in jeder der nächsten 16 Lm (= 16 Doppel-Stb), 3 Doppel-Stb in die nächste Lm, 1 Doppel-Stb in jeder der letzten 18 Lm = 2+16+3+18=39Doppel-Stb . Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

13.08.2020 kl. 16:44

country flag Mandy wrote:

As with earlier question from Mary...I can’t seem to increase under arm evenly... I can complete on one side , but when I continue with the dtr’s I don’t know what to do for the other side as I am one row further on. So the increase for under arm will be lower on one side than the other. If some can help I would be very grateful. I can’t seem to comprehend. Mandy, Aussie in France 🇫🇷

04.07.2020 - 16:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mandy, are you talking about the chains cast on on each side for the armholes? If you want them on the same row, cut the y arn at the end of previous row, turn piece (to keep texture alternately from RS and from WS), cast on the number of chains for your size, continue working on piece as before and cast on the number of chains for your size, then work the new stitches for armholes as explained. Happy crocheting!

06.07.2020 kl. 08:44

country flag Iride wrote:

In genere mi trovo benissimo con i vostri modelli, ma questo schema è veramente poco chiaro. Almeno in italiano. Peccato... perché il top è carino ed è un modello non facile da trovare....

23.05.2020 - 23:08

country flag Virginie wrote:

Bonjour il y a un problème dans vos explications,pour les augmentations, doit on augmenter de 1 DB à la fin de chaque rang ou de 2 DB : 1 au début et 1 à la fin chaque rang. si on augmente de 1 DB 6 fois (pour la taille M) on obtient 6 rang donc 6 augmentations + les 2 du milieu çà fait un total de 12 (2x6) +6 = 18....donc plus les 39 de départ çà fait 57, en rajoutant les 10 des emmanchures x2 (car on a 2 bras ;-) çà fait 77 , pouvez vous expliquer comment on arrive à 85 DB ? merci.

11.05.2020 - 16:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Virginie, en taille M/L on commence par 39 m et on augmente 2 DB pour la pointe tous les rangs (= 7 rangs = on augmente 14 DB), en même temps, vous augmentez 6 fois 1 DB de chaque côté (+ 12 m) puis (7ème rang) 2 x 10 DB (= +20 DB), soit: 39+14+12+20=85 double-brides. Bon crochet!

11.05.2020 kl. 16:59

country flag Mary wrote:

How do I complete the underarm increase on the otherside Arrowheart crochet top. I have tried various techniques but have not found a satisfactory one and the pattern I'm afraid falls short of explanation.

06.05.2020 - 14:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, I'm sorry I'm afraid I misudnerstand your question - you have to increase for armholes by crocheting an extra dtr (= 2 dtr in the same dtr) on each side a total of 5 to 7 times (see size) on every row, ie you will increase 2 sts on each of these rows. Then continue increasing on mid front but now decrease at the sides as explained under Decreasing tips to get the correct number of sts. Hope this helps. Happy crocheting!

06.05.2020 kl. 14:53

country flag Deb wrote:

Hi there, I love this top, but I\\\'m not great at following patterns I'm more of a visual learner and hoping somewhere theres a tutorial to follow, is that possible? I love it! Thank you kindly for any help..stay safe out there. Deb

20.03.2020 - 04:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Deb, we only have a written pattern to this top, try to follow it step by step to get it. Feel free to contact the store where you bought the yarn for any further individual assistance. Happy crocheting!

20.03.2020 kl. 09:47

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