DROPS Silke-Tweed
52% Silk, 48% Wool
Discontinued
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DROPS Buttons
Charred (angular) No. 537

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DROPS 95-21

DROPS Cardigan knitted in lace pattern with Silke-Tweed.

DROPS 95-21
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Size: XS - S – M – L – XL - XXL
Materials: DROPS Silke-Tweed from Garnstudio
250-250-300-300-350-400 g colour no. 02, Brown.

Drops circular needle size 3.5 mm and 4 mm or size needed to obtain the correct gauge.
Drops crochet hook size 3.
Drops wooden button with edges, no. 537: 3- 4 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

Knitting Gauge: 23 sts x 30 rows on needles size 3.5 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.
20 sts x 27 rows on needles size 4 mm in stocking sts= 10 x 10 cm.

Rib: *K2, P3*, repeat from *-*

Lace Pattern: See diagram M.1 to M.3. The diagrams are seen from the right side.

Increasing tips (for the front edge): Inc inside the outer edge sts at the centre front edge as follows: Make a yo. On the next row twist the yo 1 time and K it.

Bind off tips (for the neckline): Bind off inside the 3 edge sts. All bind off’s to be done from the right side. Bind off as follows after the 3 edge sts: Slip a st as if to knit, K1, psso. Bind off before the 3 edge sts: K2 tog.

Front edge: The front edge is knitted in garter sts up to the neck – to make sure the front edge will look nice knit it a little tight.

Front and Back Piece: The cardigan is knitted forward and backward on circular needles starting from the centre front.
Cast on loosely 207-232-247-277-307-337 sts (inclusive of 5 edge sts each side = centre front) on needles size 3.5 in Silke-Tweed. P 1st row from the wrong side, and continue in Rib with 5 edge sts in garter sts each side (make sure you start and finish the rib with K2 and then the edge sts). When the piece measures 3 cm dec all P3 to P2 = 168-188-200-224-248-272 sts. Continue the rib K2/P2 until the piece measures 10-10-11-11-12-12 cm, make sure the next row starts from the right side. Change to needles size 4 and continue in stocking sts (knit the 5 edge sts in gartr sts) at the same time adjusting the number of sts on row to 167-191-203-227-251-275 – NB: Do not inc. or dec on the front edges.

Please read the rest of the front and back piece section before continuing!
Pattern: When the piece measures 13-14-15-16-17-18 cm knit the next row from the right side as follows: 5 edge sts, M.1A (=16 sts), M.1B over the next 132-156-168-192-216-240 sts, M.1C (= 9 sts) and 5 edge sts. Continue M.1 - 1 repeat. At the same time insert a marking thread 44-50-53-59-65-71 sts in from each side = 79-91-97-109-121-133 sts between the marking threads for the back piece. When finished with M.1 continue in M.2 in the same way: 5 edge sts, M.2A (= 16 sts), M.2B on the next 132-156-168-192-216-240 sts, M.2C (= 9 sts) and 5 edge sts. Continue M.2 until the piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm (adjust the length to a finished pattern repeat). Continue in M.3 – 1 repeat the same way (5 edge sts at each side). Continue in stocking sts until finished measurements (front edge and sts for the neck knitted in garter sts as explained in the pattern).

Front edge shaping: At the same time when the piece measures 13-14-15-16-18-19 cm inc. for the front edge shaping – see increasing tips – as follows: 1 st on every 4-4-3.5-3.5-3-3 cm a total of 8-8-9-9-10-10 times.

Armholes: At the same time when the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm bind off for armholes each side as follows: 6-6-8-8-10-10 sts (3-3-4-4-5-5 sts each side of the marking threads). Continue to knit each piece separately.

Back piece: = 73-85-89-101-111-123 sts. Bind off for armhole each side on every other row as follows: 3 sts 0-0-0-1-1-2 times, 2 sts 0-2-2-3-5-5 times and 1 sts 2-3-4-4-4-6 times = 69-71-73-75-77-79 sts – continue pattern as before but with a seam st each side (all seam sts are knitted in garter sts) -NB: When binding off for armholes K sts not fitting into a hole pattern line. Make sure that the number off sts in the pattern remain constant, i.e. as many yo's as sts knitted tog. After 1 repeat of M.3 continue in stocking sts. When the piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm knit 4 rows of garter sts over the centre 25-27-27-29-29-31 sts (all other sts are knitted as before). On next row bind off the centre 19-21-21-23-23-25 sts for neck. Continue to bind off 1 st on each neckline – see bind off tips = 24-24-25-25-26-26 sts left on each shoulder. Continue in stocking sts and 3 garter sts at each neck side until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. Bind off.

Left front: Continue the pattern as before and at the same time continue the inc. for the front edge shaping. At the same time bind off for armhole as done for the back piece. After all inc. and dec. are complete there are 47-48-50-51-53-54 sts left on row (- 1 seam sts, 33-34-35-36-37-38 pattern sts and 13-13-14-14-15-15 garter sts for the edge at the centre front). At the same time after the last inc. on front edge (the piece now measures approx. 41-42-43-44-45-46 cm), bind off the outermost 10-10-11-11-12-12 edge sts at the centre front edge for neck. Continue to bind off 1 st on neckline on every other row – see bind off tips – a total of 13-14-14-15-15-16 times = 24-24-25-25-26-26 sts left for shoulder. When the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm bind off remaining sts.

Right front: Knit as left front but reverse.

Sleeve: Knit forward and backward on circular needles. Cast on loosely 77-77-77-92-92-92 sts (inclusive of 1 seam st each side) on needles size 3.5 mm with Silke-Tweed. P 1st row from the wrong side, and continue in Rib with 1 seam st each side. When the piece measures 4 cm dec every 3rd P3 to P2 = 72-72-72-86-86-86 sts. Repeat the dec at 8 and 12 cm and make sure that when all P-reports have been dec to P2, there are K2/P2 over all sts with a seam st each side = 62-62-62-74-74-74 sts. Continue the rib until the piece measures 13-13-14-14-15-15 cm, make sure the next row starts from the right side. Change to knitting needles size 4 and continue in stocking sts at the same time adjusting the number of sts on row to 51-55-57-59-61-63.

Please read the rest of the sleeve section before continuing!

Pattern: When the piece measures 16-16-17-17-18-18 cm knit the next row from the right side as follows: 1 seam st, 0-2-3-4-5-6 sts stocking sts, M.1A (=16 sts), M.1B over the next 24 sts, M.1C (= 9 sts), 0-2-3-4-5-6 sts stocking sts and 1 seam st. Continue M.1 - 1 repeat, and then knit M.2 the same way – remember to knit the inc sts each side in stocking sts – see explanation below. When the piece measures approx. 29-29-30-30-31-31 cm - adjust the length to a finished pattern repeat - continue M.3 - 1 repeat, the same way, and then continue in stocking sts until finished mesurements.
Increasing: At the same time when the piece measures 17-17-18-18-19-19 cm inc 1 st each side a total of 10-11-11-14-15-16 times
Size XS: Alternate between every 4th and 5th row.
Size S: every 4th row.
Size M: Alternate between every 3rd and 4th row.
Size L: Alternate between every 2nd and 3rd row.
Size XL: Every other row.
Size XXL: On every row
= 71-77-79-87-91-95 – knit new sts in stocking sts.
Sleeve cap: When the piece measures 35-34-33-32-30-38 cm bind off for sleeve cap each side on every other row as follows: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2-3-3-4-4-4 times and 1 st 1-3-4-4-7-8 times, continue to bind off 2 sts each side until piece measures 41-42-42-42-42-42 cm. Then bind off each side 3 sts 1 time. When the piece measures 42-43-43-43-43-43 cm bind off the remaining sts. Knit the other sleeve.

Assembly: Sew shoulders seams. Sew the sleeve and the sides tog. inside of the seam sts. Sew in the sleeves.
Button loops: Crochet 3 -4 loops along the right front edge with hook size 3 in Silke-Tweed. Place the top loop approx 0.5 cm from the top of the front edge. Place the other loops with a space of approx 6-8 cm in between.
1 loop = 1 dc in a st, 6 ch, skip 8 rows of garter sts and fasten with a sl st in the next st.
Sew the button on the inside of the left front edge – see picture.

Diagram

	= K from RS, P from WS
	= 1 YO
	= K2 tog
	= slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
	= slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (26)

Miriam Rombach wrote:

Ich bin beim linken Vorderteil. Abnahme für den Halsausschnitt.Da bin ich mir unsicher Gr.S: Vorteile+Rückenteil wird bei 36cm separat gestrickt. Bei 41cm soll ich schon für den Ausschnitt abnehmen? Die wenn ich 8x alle 4cm an derBlende zunehme, bin ich da noch garnicht fertig. Kann das sein, dass 41cm ohne Bündchen gemeint ist?

18.02.2023 - 18:13

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Rombach, Halsausschnitt beginnt man wenn die Arbeit 42 cm (Größe S = 2. Größe) ab der Anschlagskante misst, dann nehmen Sie 1 Masche in jeder 2. Reihe 14 Mal ab, und stricken Sie bis die Arbeit 56 cm misst. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.02.2023 - 09:43

CHTIOUI wrote:

Bonjour, je n'ai pas compris comment se tricote le motif M3??? Pouvez vous m'expliquer s'il vous plaît, merci.

14.08.2019 - 17:41

Bonjour Mme Chtioui, M.3 va se tricoter ainsi: on commence par M.3A (après les 5 m point mousse), on répéte M.3B jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 14 mailles, on tricote ensuite M.3C et on termine par les 5 m au point mousse. Bon tricot!

15.08.2019 - 09:28

Kathy wrote:

I wrote the chart into a line by line pattern, For instance Line 1 of M2 would read K4, *K2tog, YO, K1, YO, S1K1Psso, K7, repeat from *, K4. Looking at other people's completed sweaters, it looks like the YO is made before the decrease to create the chain looking diagonal row of decreases. Did I translate the chart correctly? Or is the YO worked before the decrease.

31.05.2017 - 01:28

Dear Kathy, almost correct, M.2A= K4, K2 tog, YO, K1, YO, S1K1psso, K7 - M2B = K2 tog, YO, K1, YO, S1K1psso, K7 - M2C = K2 tog, YO, K1, YO, S1k1psso, K4. Happy knitting!

31.05.2017 - 08:37

Franny wrote:

I don't understand the Front Edge Shaping instructions. Do the cms refer to length of garment and is the increase at the beginning and end of the row? I am very confused. Would appreciate it if someone could help me. Thank you

09.10.2016 - 15:40

Dear Fanny, the cms refers to the entire length, so you'll start working the front shaping when you'll start the pattern. You've to increase following the instructions stated in the increasing tip. Happy knitting!

10.10.2016 - 07:17

Mervat wrote:

Hi ....i knitted M2 for 1 time . should i repeat it and then finish with M3 once ?? thank you

26.02.2016 - 22:18

Dear Mrs Mervat, you first work M.1 1 time in height, then repeat M.2 in height until piece measures 40-45 cm (see size - adjust to a complete diagram), then work M.3 1 time in height and continue in stocking st until finished measurements. Happy knitting!

27.02.2016 - 16:29

LOUCHART wrote:

Merci de votre réponse super je vais pouvoir continuer le tricot.

17.03.2015 - 13:34

LOUCHART Marie-France wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas le motif m1b car il se tricote sur 11m et j'ai 192 m donc 192: 11 =17,45 et j'ai essayé mais soit il me manque 5m ou soit 5 de trop. Pourtant j'ai le même nombre de mailles que sur le modèle. Pouvez vous m'aider merci

17.03.2015 - 11:19

Bonjour Mme Loucart, M1B se tricote sur 12 m (Rang 1 = 2 m ens à l'end, 1 jeté, 1 m end, 1 jeté, 1 surjet simple, 7 m end), on va le répéter 16 fois = 192 m. Bon tricot!

17.03.2015 - 13:28

Julie Matthews wrote:

I am about to knit this pattern and have circled the size I am going to make. There seem to be 3 places where there are only 5 options though there are 6 sizes. 1)'front edge shaping' line 2 and 2) 'back piece' line 1 and line 6. Have you any corrections for this? Many thanks

01.04.2014 - 20:34

Dear Mrs Matthews, pattern have been edited so that there are all indications for all sizes now. Thank you very much for your patience. Happy knitting!

05.05.2014 - 13:46

Blahblah wrote:

Nr of stitches on sleeve for the second size don't match. When starting stockinette the patt. says 55 sts although the first lace part only adds up 53 sts.

20.02.2013 - 21:58

Dear Blahblah, in 2nd size, you will work pattern as follows : 1 edge st, 2 sts stocking sts, M.1A (=16 sts), M.1B over the next 24 sts, M.1C (= 9 sts), 2 sts stocking sts and 1 edge st = 55 sts. Continue with M.2 as for M.1. Happy knitting!

21.02.2013 - 11:32

DROPS Design wrote:

The translations for the Diagrams for all Garnstudio patterns are included within the text of the Pattern itself. If you look you will find lines starting with an = sign. These are the translations, and they are given in the same vertical order as the chart symbols within the diagram.

18.05.2008 - 21:28