DROPS / 95 / 23

DROPS 95-23 by DROPS Design

Knitted Top in DROPS Cotton Viscose and Vivaldi or DROPS Safran and Kid-Silk. Necklace and bracelet in Muskat

Size: XS - S – M – L – XL - XXL

Materials: DROPS Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio
150-150-150-200-200-200 g colour no. 23, brown
and use:
DROPS Vivaldi from Garnstudio
50-50-50-100-100-100 g colour no 02, brown

Or use
DROPS Safran from Garnstudio
100-100-150-150-150-150 g colour no. 23, brown
and use:
DROPS Kid Silk from Garnstudio
75-75-75-150-150-150 g colour no 15, dark brown

DROPS circular needles size 2.5mm and 10mm
DROPS crochet hook size 3.5 (for border)

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
DROPS Cotton Viscose DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
find alternatives
DROPS Vivaldi DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
find alternatives
DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 26 sts x 52 rows with Cotton Viscose on needle size 2.5mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm

10 sts with 1 thread Vivaldi og 2 threads Kid-Silk on needle size 10mm in stocking sts = width 10 cm

Garter stitch on circular needle: 1st round knit, 2nd round purl
Garter stitch back and forth: Knit all rows

Decreasing tips 1 (applies to armhole on back piece): Dec within 1 edge st in garter from the right side. Dec as follows after 1 edge st: K2 tog. Dec as follows before 1 edge st: Slip 1 st as if to knit, K1 psso.

Decreasing tips 2 (applies to yoke on front piece): All decreases are done from the right side as follows: K1, K3 tog, knit to st with marking thread, make a yo before this st, K1, make a yo, knit until 4 sts left and knit these as follows: Slip 1 st as if to knit, K2 tog, psso, K1. Knit all sts on next row but knit yo’s into back of st.

Top: Loosely cast on 110-120-130-140-150-160 on needles size 10 with 1 thread Vivaldi og 2 threads Kid-Silk and knit 1 round, purl 1 round and continue in stocking sts. When piece measures 34-35-35-36-36-37 cm, change to Cotton Viscose og Safran and needle size 2.5mm, at the same time inc evenly on row to 176-196-216-240-268-296 sts. Insert a marking thread each side = 88-98-108-120-134-148 sts between marking threads. Measure piece from here from now on. Continue in garter sts. When piece measures 3 cm, 6 cm and 9 cm inc 1 st on both sides of marking threads = 188-208-228-252-280-308 sts. When piece measures 11-11-12-12-13-14 cm cast off 8 sts each side for armhole (i.e. 4 sts each side of marking threads) = 86-96-106-118-132-146 sts left on back and front piece.

Back piece = 86-96-106-118-132-146 sts. Now dec 1 st for armhole each side on every other row - see Decreasing tips 1 – a total of 11-13-15-19-23-27 times = 64-70-76-80-86-92 sts. Cast off, piece measures approx 15-16-17-19-22-24 cm from the marking thread.

Front piece: = 86-96-106-118-132-146 sts. Divide the piece in 2 and put half the sts on thread = 43-48-53-59-66-73 sts each side.
1st side: Insert a marking thread in the 21-24-26-29-33-36 st from the side. Knit garter sts back and forth on needle, at the same time decreasing to form a triangle - see Decreasing tips 2 – this decreases the number of sts by 2 per dec. Dec on every other row a total of 16-17-20-23-26-29 times = 11-12-13-13-14-15 sts left on needle. Continue over these sts for shoulder strap and cast off when piece measures approx 40-42-44-46-48-50 cm from marking thread (try on the top to see if straps are long enough).
2nd side: Put the 43-48-53-59-66-73 sts from thread back on needle and knit as 1st side.

Assembly: Sew shoulder straps to back piece.
Crochet border: Crochet a border along lower edge (cast-on row) using Cotton Viscose og Safran and crochet hook size 3.5 as follows: 1 dc in first st, *3 ch, 1 dc in next st*, repeat from *-* and finish with 3 ch and 1 sl st in dc from beginning of round.

Length: necklace approx 110 cm

Materials: Muskat
Use a remnant of colour no 22, brown, colour no. 49, orange, colour no. 39, pink, and colour no. 41, deep red.

DROPS crochet hook size 4
7 wooden beads (for necklace) and small wooden button (for bracelet).

NECKLACE: Read the whole pattern before you start!
Put 7 wooden beads on thread from the brown ball. Crochet ch and when the chain measures 4-29-34-56-84 and 93 cm pull a bead towards st on needle before continuing (the bead will then be “locked”). At the same time when the chain measures 11-15-31-40-56-68-73-92-87-101 cm crochet a dc in the last but one ch (= small knots). When chain measures 110 cm cut the thread.

Flowers: Crochet 2 orange and 1 pink Flower A – see instructions below – and sew on flowers at 1, 23 and 98 cm.

Bubbles: Crochet 4 red, 3 orange and 3 pink bubbles – see instructions below. Attach a bubble each end of the chain (each bubble will have an open side, sew this opening to the chain). Attach the other bubbles at 11-22-27-48-63-77-84-105 cm.

BRACELET: Crochet a chain of ch approx 32 cm long using crochet hook size 4 and brown Muskat. Crochet Flower B in deep red and Flower C in pink. Sew both flowers to chain. Crochet 2 brown bubbles and sew a bubble to each end of chain.

Flower A: Crochet 4 ch and form a ring with a sl st.
1st round: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 11 tr in ring and finish with a sl st in 3rd ch from beginning of round = 12 tr
2nd round: *4 ch, 1 tr in the first of the 4 ch just crochet, skip 1 tr, 1 dc in next tr*, repeat from *-* a total of 6 times and finish with a sl st in sl st from end of previous round (instead of 1 dc in next tr) = 6 leaves

Flower B: Crochet 4 ch and form a ring with a sl st.
1st round: 1 ch (= 1 dc), 6 dc in ring and finish with a sls t in ch from beginning of round = 7 dc
2nd round: 1 ch (= 1 dc), 1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in each of the following dc, finish with a sl st in first ch from beginning of round = 14 dc on round
3rd rond: *4 ch, 1 tr in the first of the 4 ch just crochet, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc*, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times and finish with a sl st in sl st from end of previous round (instead of 1 dc in next dc) = 7 leaves
Sew a button to middle of flower for decoration.

Flower C: Crochet 4 ch and form a ring with a sl st.
1st round: 1 ch (= 1 dc), 4 dc in ring and finish with a sls t in ch from beginning of round = 5 dc
2nd round: *4 ch, 1 tr in the first of the 4 ch just crochet, 1 dc in next dc*, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times and finish with a sl st in sl st from end of previous round (instead of 1 dc in next dc) = 5 leaves

Bubbles: Crochet 4 ch (= 1 ch + 1 tr), 6 tr in the first ch just crochet, turn the piece. 3 ch (= 1 tr), now crochet 1 tr in each of the 6 tr from previous row, but crochet the tr’s together as follows: crochet 1 tr in first tr but wait with the last yo and pull-through (= 2 sts on needle), crochet 1 tr in next tr but wait with the last yo and pull-through (= 3 sts on needle), continue like this until all 6 tr have been crochet (= 7 sts on needle). Pull the last yo on the last tr through all sts on needle. Cut the thread.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 95-23) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (9)

Marcela 29.04.2019 - 20:38:

Muchas gracias por su pronta respuesta.

Marcela 29.04.2019 - 14:23:

Buen día quisiera preguntar por la parte de la espalda se trabaja separado de la delantera y luego se cose o se trabaja junto. Muchas gracias por su atención

DROPS Design 29.04.2019 kl. 20:27:

Hola Marcela. El top se trabaja de la siguiente manera: primero se trabaja el cuerpo en redondo hasta las sisas, después se termina la espalda y el delantero por separado hasta terminar las medidas. Se cose para finalizar en los hombros.

Maria 15.05.2012 - 18:58:

Se non voglio fare il circolare quante maglie e come devo continuare il davanti e il dietro taglia S

DROPS Design 18.05.2012 kl. 14:32:

La prima parte (la parte bassa della canotta) si lavora in tondo, ad un certo punto il lavoro si divide e si termina il dietro e il davanti separatamente. Se volesse lavorare tutto avanti e indietro sui ferri normali, basta dividere il n° di maglie da avviare a metà. Quando il lav misura 35 cm, bisogna distribuire degli aumenti. Le li faccia a metà sul dietro e l'altra metà sul davanti. Se non è chiaro mi contatti di nuovo! Buon lavoro

ann-sofie magnér 26.02.2006 - 13:47:

Tycker smyckena är urläckra! Skulle gärna vilja ha beskrivningen skickad till mig.Tack på förhand!

Elin 07.02.2006 - 14:36:

Sexigt linne! ;)

06.02.2006 - 13:47:

lekker top!

kjersti 16.01.2006 - 13:50:

Synes disse smykkene som er kommet nå er kjempelekre. Kan jeg ikke få tilsendt mønster av det så jeg vet hvordan jeg skal lage det. Har flere ideer til farger osv selv, men må ha en mal.... Please!

G. D 27.12.2005 - 14:24:

Dennne var kjempefin

maria K M 25.12.2005 - 19:42:

meget smuk og moderne

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 95-23

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.