DROPS Extra / 0-84

DROPS Extra 0-84 by DROPS Design

Knitted striped dog sweater in DROPS Karisma

Tags: pets, stripes,
The dogs length of back (from collar to start of tail): 30 (37) 44 (50) cm
The dogs chest width (3-4 cm behind front legs): 34-38 (44-48) 54-58 (58-62) cm
Garments length of back incl collar: 26 (34) (43) 49 cm

Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash, from Garnstudio.
2 (2) 3 (3) balls pink (nr 13), 1 ball black (nr 05)

Needles size 4½ mm. Double pointed needles size 4½ mm.

Black Velcro approx 30 (35) 45 (50) cm x 20 mm in width

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Tension: 20 sts x 26 rows on 10 x 10 cm. Check your tension carefully!

Stripes: *6 rows pink, 2 rows black*, repeat *-*.

Knitting tip: To avoid having to fasten many threads afterwords, let the black thread follow.
Make sure to stretch your work in the side when changing colours, so that it not tightens the edge.

Sweater: Cast on 62 (82) 102 (110) sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4½ mm with pink. Work stocking sts and stripes according to explanation above. Inc 2 sts evenly distributed on every 3rd (4th) 5th (6rd) row, a total of 7 times = 76 (96) 116 (124) sts.
When piece measures approx 10 (13) 16 (19) cm (adjust after 2 rows with black), work next row from RS with pink as follows: knit 27 (33) 41 (43) sts, cast off 2 sts, knit 18 (26) 30 (34) sts, cast off 2 sts, knit remaining 27 (33) 41 (43) sts. Now continue part seperately.

Left side: Continue in stripes at the same time dec 1 st towards armhole on every other row a total of 9 (11) 13 (15) times = 18 (22) 28 (28) sts.
When piece measures approx 8 (11) 15 (17) cm from armhole (adjust after 6 rows with pink) slip sts on a thread or stitch holder.

Right side: Knit as left.

Center part: = 18 (26) 30 (34) sts. Continue in stripes at the same time as dec 1 st each side towards armholes on every other row a total of 3 times = 12 (20) 24 (28) sts.

When center part measures approx 11 (14) 18 (20) cm from armholes (adjust after 6 rows with pink) slips sts on threads/holders on each side of center sts back on same needle = 48 (64) 80 (84) sts on needle. Work 2 rows with black, at the same time on first row dec evenly distributed to 46 (54) 62 (70) sts.

Collar: Change to pink and work in rib *K2, P2* for approx 7 (9) 11 (12) cm. Cast off loosely in rib.

Assembly: Sew seams in the leg opening from collar and backwards until aprox 8 (9) 10 (11) cm remains. Sew with fine stitches from RS. Fasten all loose threads. Sew piece together from collar towards tail.

Rib edge around leg: Pick up approx 36 (40) 44 (48) sts around hole for leg with double pointed needles size 4½ mm and pink. Work rib *K2, P2* for approx 5 (6) 7 (8) cm. Cast off loosely in rib. Repeat around other hole.

Rib edge along back: Pick up approx 54 (70) 86 (98) sts within 1 edge st along left edge on piece with pink and needles size 4½ mm. Work rib *K2, P2*, start and finish with P2 from WS, so that there are K2 in each side from RS. After 5 rows cast off loosely in rib. Repeat along right edge. Fasten velcro along each side. Sew with sewing thread and small fine stitches.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-84) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (53)

Leni 20.02.2020 - 13:09:

Jeg har strikket en del hundetrøjer, men denne opskrift er meget forskellig😏 Er det korrekt at trøjen skal strikkes frem og tilbage, og med kantmaske hele vejen, og som så bruges til at sy den sammen med? De 2 m der skal tages ud, er det i siderne eller tilfældigt sted?

Tina Spottog 04.02.2020 - 18:02:

Jeg er ved at stikke 0-84 til min hund og forstår ikke helt hvor ærmegabet er ?..

DROPS Design 11.02.2020 kl. 10:20:

Hej Tina, Der hvor du lukker de 2 masker af starter ærmegabet. Bare følg opskriften, så kommer det helt af sig selv :)

Cartaux Danielle 16.11.2019 - 17:12:

Jusqu'à quelle distance de la queue le pull s'arrête ?? Le velcro n'est-il pas trop difficile à ouvrir sur de la laine.?? Je pensais à une fermeture éclair. Merci pour votre aide.

DROPS Design 18.11.2019 kl. 09:42:

Bonjour Mme Cartaux, vous pouvez vérifier la longueur du modèle (cf en-tête) par rapport à votre chien. Vous pouvez choisir une fermeture éclair si vous ne souhaitez pas de velcro, ou ajouter des boutons, au choix. Bon tricot!

Monika Günter 23.04.2019 - 15:22:

Wird hinten angefangen und zugenommen,ok. Klettverschluss kommt an Rand,dann ist der am Bauch oder aber amrücken der kürzer ist als der Bauch???normalerweise ist der Rücken länger als der Bauch.????????

DROPS Design 24.04.2019 kl. 08:47:

Liebe Frau Günter, der Pullover wird genauso lang am Rücken und am Bauch. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Nancy Bérubé 02.03.2019 - 00:15:

Pour un chien longueur plus long de 15 cm ( patron indiqué 50 cm et le mien 65 cm ) je le fais plus long de combien ? Merci

DROPS Design 04.03.2019 kl. 07:44:

Bonjour Mme Bérubé, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande. Merci de bien vouloir contacter le magasin où vous avez acheté votre laine pour toute assistance individuelle. Bon tricot!

Louise 28.02.2019 - 11:54:

Nu har jeg strikket hvad der skal strikkes, og kan forstå at sammensyningen er på ryggen. Så forstår jeg ikke hvorfor blusen er kortere på ryggen end på maven? Hunden må jo så gøre blusen våd når den tisser. Jeg forstår desuden ikke den med monteringen - at det er en "sidesøm"? Og at der skal sys til X masker for benet? Kan det forklares på en anden måde? På forhånd tak

DROPS Design 07.03.2019 kl. 14:38:

Hei Louise. Den blir bare bittelitt lenger på magen enn på ryggen, og det skal være sånn. Den skal også være såpass tettsittende at det skal gå helt fint for hunden å tisse uten å tisse på genseren. Når det gjelder monteringen: Åpningen til bena er større enn de egentlig skal være (unntatt den minste str): 8 (11) 15 (17) cm lang. Du må derfor delvis sy igjen åpningen, begynn nærmets halsen og sy bakover til det gjenstår 8 (9) 10 (11) cm. Videre syr du sømmen langs ryggen fra nakken og bakover. God fornøyelse

Sabrina Weber 13.02.2019 - 12:20:

Ich bin am Verzweifeln. Könnten Sie vielleicht ein Bild vom den einzelnen Teilen einstellen. Eine Skitzze würde schön genügen. Ich verstehe nicht, wie das mit dem Beinausschnitten funkioniert Vielen Dank im Voraus.

DROPS Design 13.02.2019 kl. 13:22:

Liebe Frau Weber, die Arbeit wird hin und zurück von hinten bis Halsausschnitt gestrickt. Nach 10 (13) 16 (19) cm teilen Sie die Arbeit in 3 Teilen (2 M werden je abgekettet), dann stricken Sie jedes Teil 8 (11) 15 (17) cm separat und stricken alle Maschen wieder. Dann wird die Beinausschnitten zsgenäht, und eine Öffnung von ca 8 (9) 10 (11) cm lassen, hier wird die Bündchen herum gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Inger R 01.02.2019 - 09:23:

Gjennom strikking av høyre og venstre side samt midtparti, så har jeg jo allerede strikket åpning til 2 ben, hvorfor skal jeg i tillegg lage hull til ben når drakten sys sammen? Jeg synes det er mest logisk å sy sammen under magen, er det greit?

DROPS Design 07.02.2019 kl. 10:25:

Hei Inger. Det var en litt uklar formulering der. Når du har strikket åpning til bena, er disse åpningnene større enn de skal være (gjelder ikke den minste størrelsen). Åpningen er 8 (11) 15 (17) cm lang. Du må derfor sy igjen deler av åpningen (fra halskanten og bakove) til det gjenstår 8 (9) 10 (11) cm. Så kan du plukke opp masker rundt hvert ben og så vrangborden. Vi skal få skrevet en bedre forklaring på dette i oppskriften. God fornøyelse

DEREZANIN 08.01.2019 - 12:30:

Bon explications trop floues et pas de schéma ..... je détricote tout et prend un autre modèle sur un autre site !!!!

DROPS Design 08.01.2019 kl. 15:17:

Bonjour Mme Derezanin, nous sommes désolés que ce modèle ne correspondait pas à ce que vous cherchiez. Pour toute assistance personnalisée, n'hésitez pas à vous adresser auprès du magasin où vous avez acheté votre laine, même par mail ou téléphone, on saura vous conseiller. Bon tricot!

DEREZANIN FRANCOISE 07.01.2019 - 17:14:

Bonjour, auriez vous une photo a plat de ce modèle car avec les explications seules et la photo finieje ne vpis pas du tout ce que rend le modèle ! Urgent pour chien abandonné et en refuge dehors !

DROPS Design 08.01.2019 kl. 08:40:

Bonjour Mme Derezanin, nous n'avons pas d'autres photos de ce modèle, le pull se tricote à partir du bas vers le cou, en allers et retours. On divise l'ouvrage pour les pattes et on continue chaque partie (gauche, milieu (= sous le ventre) et droit) séparément avant de les reprendre et de terminer le col. Les bordures des pattes sont relevées autour des ouvertures et on termine par une bordure côtes au milieu dos. Bon tricot!

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