DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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BFF's Jumper

Knitted jumper for dogs in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked from the tail to the neck with stocking stitch, stripes and opening along the back. Size XS - L.

DROPS Extra 0-84
DROPS Design: Pattern u-011-h
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
XS - S - M – L
MEASURMENTS:
Back-length: 25-33-41-50 cm
Chest: 34/38 - 44/48 - 54/58 - 58/62 cm
Examples of breeds:
XS = Chihuahua, S = Bichon Frisé, M = Cocker Spaniel, L = Small Boxer

YARN:
DROPS Merino Extra Fine from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-100-150-150 g colour 32, dark rose
50-50-50-50 g colour 20, dark blue

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 513: 5-6-7-8 items

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work the buttonholes at the end of a row from the right side as follows: Work until there are 4 stitches left, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together, work 2 garter stitches. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the piece measures 2½ cm. Then the other 4-5-6-7 buttonholes are worked with approx.. 5-4½-5-5 cm between each one.

STRIPES:
* 6 rows dark rose, 2 rows dark blue *, repeat from *-*.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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DOG JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The body is worked back and forth with circular needle from the tail, divided into 3 sections for the legs, then rejoined after the legs and finished back and forth. The neck is worked in the round with double pointed needles. The front legs are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

BODY:
Cast on 78-98-118-126 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and colour dark rose. Work rib as follows from the wrong side: 6 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - read description above, work rib (purl 2, knit 2) until there are 8 stitches left, purl 2 and 6 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue this rib for 3 cm – remember the BUTTONHOLES - see description above.
Insert a marker in the middle of the row; the piece is measured from here.

You now work short rows on each side to give the piece a better shape.
Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work as follows from the right side:
ROW 1 (right side): 6 band stitches in garter stitch, knit until there are 6 stitches left, 6 band stitches in garter stitch. Turn.
Left side:
ROW 2 (wrong side): 6 band stitches in garter stitch, purl 5-6-7-8, turn.
ROW 3 (right side): Knit until there are 6 stitches left, 6 band stitches in garter stitch, turn.
Repeat ROWS 2 and 3 but on each row from the wrong side purl 5-6-7-8 more stitches than the previous row and until you have purled 36-42-49-54 stitches. Turn and knit back from the right side. Turn.
Work a complete row from the wrong side (stocking stitch with 6 band stitches in garter stitch on each side).
Right side:
ROW 1 (right side): 6 band stitches in garter stitch, knit 5-6-7-8, turn.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Purl until there are 6 stitches left, 6 band stitches in garter stitch, turn.
Repeat ROWS 1 and 2 but on each row from the right side knit 5-6-7-8 more stitches than the previous row and until you have knitted 36-42-49-54 stitches. Turn and work back from the wrong side.

Work as before, back and forth over all stitches, and work STRIPES – read description above, remember the BUTTONHOLES.
Work until the piece measures approx. 5-8-11-13 cm from the marker – finishing after 2 rows with colour dark blue. Work as follows from the right side: 31-37-45-47 stitches as before (right back), cast off 2 stitches for the front leg, knit 12-20-24-28 (tummy), cast off 2 stitches for the front leg, work 31-37-45-47 stitches as before (left back). Each section is now continued separately.

LEFT BACK:
Continue with stocking stitch, garter stitch and stripes, and cast off 1 stitch for the leg-opening every 2nd row 9-11-13-15 times = 19-23-29-29 stitches.
When the piece measures 6-8-10-12 cm from the division, place these stitches on a stitch holder.

RIGHT BACK:
Work in the same way as the left side – matching the stripes on each side.

TUMMY:
= 12-20-24-28 stitches. Work stripes until tummy section measures approx. 9-11-13-15 cm from division – adjust so that the stripes are matching on the left and right side. The tummy section is slightly longer than the back to give chest-room. Place now all stitches back on the circular needle = 64-82-100-106 stitches. The yoke is measured from here.

YOKE:
Continue with stripes, stocking stitch and bands in garter stitch for a further 4-6-8-10 cm.
Use colour dark rose and start from the right side. Cast off the 6 band stitches, knit adjusting the number of stitches to 56-76-96-112 stitches.
NECK:
Continue in the round with colour dark rose.
Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 3-4-6-9 cm. Cast off a little loosely with rib.
The jumper measures approx. 25-33-41-50 cm along the back.

FRONT LEGS:
Use double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and colour dark rose. Knit up approx. 40-52-60-68 stitches around the leg-opening (The stitch count should be divisible by 4) and work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 2-4-6-8 cm. Cast off. Repeat around the other opening.

ASSEMBLY:
The 6 band stitches cast off on one side are sewn to the inside of the second band so they overlap. Sew on the buttons.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 07.11.2023
The pattern has been reviewed and rephrased.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (64)

country flag DEREZANIN FRANCOISE wrote:

Bonjour, auriez vous une photo a plat de ce modèle car avec les explications seules et la photo finieje ne vpis pas du tout ce que rend le modèle ! Urgent pour chien abandonné et en refuge dehors !

07.01.2019 - 17:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Derezanin, nous n'avons pas d'autres photos de ce modèle, le pull se tricote à partir du bas vers le cou, en allers et retours. On divise l'ouvrage pour les pattes et on continue chaque partie (gauche, milieu (= sous le ventre) et droit) séparément avant de les reprendre et de terminer le col. Les bordures des pattes sont relevées autour des ouvertures et on termine par une bordure côtes au milieu dos. Bon tricot!

08.01.2019 - 08:40

country flag Patrizia wrote:

Buongiorno, ho visto che molte persone hanno difficoltà con questo modello. Io non capisco da dove escono le zampe posteriori. E' possibile avere un disegno del modello prima delle cuciture? Sarebbe di grande aiuto soprattutto per i miei clienti che mi chiedono spiegazioni. Grazie

24.11.2017 - 12:49

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Patrizia. Purtroppo non è disponibile lo schema. Il cappottino viene infilato solo nelle zampe anteriori; le zampe posteriori restano libere. Buon lavoro!

24.11.2017 - 13:25

country flag Patrizia wrote:

Buongiorno, vorrei sapere se in questo modello la parte del maglione va lavorata in tondo con i circolari oppure avanti e dietro sui ferri. Grazie

17.11.2017 - 12:17

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Patrizia. Si lavora avanti e indietro sui ferri. Buon lavoro!

17.11.2017 - 17:52

country flag Yvonne Douglas wrote:

Hvorfor er der ikke et foto af trøjen fra oven og fra neden . jeg er bedst til at strikke efter foto Også m.v.hilsen Yvonne

05.10.2017 - 09:48

country flag Eva wrote:

I'm picking a sweater pattern for my dog. The sizing has me confused. For this particular dog, his back is 19 inches. The last sizes in some dog patterns is (19 3/4"). Is that in inches or cm? And his chest size is 20 inches. He is an odd size dog, I know. Can't wait to hear from you.

07.03.2017 - 11:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Eva, you will find all measurements both in cm and in inches, so that 19 3/4 " are inches and matching largest size, with a chest width of 22 3/4"-24 1/2". You may have to adjust to your dog size. Happy knitting!

07.03.2017 - 14:21

country flag Marianne wrote:

Et lite tips: Informer 1 i starten av oppskriften om det strikkes rundt eller fram og tilbake, og om det startes ovenifra eller nedenifra. Det hadde spart mye frustrasjon!!

13.02.2017 - 11:01

country flag Karina wrote:

Stenmmer det at man må sy sammen midten av ryggen?

29.11.2016 - 07:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Karina. Ja, det er det.

29.11.2016 - 13:50

country flag Ingrid wrote:

Oppskrifta er stappfull av stavefeil. Det er veldig irriterende og det ser nesten ut som om noen brukte google translate i oversettelsen.

27.10.2016 - 21:15

country flag CASTAGNOTTO wrote:

Bonjour, y a t'il une vidéo complète pour ce modèle car ce n'est pas bien expliqué. Merci

14.10.2016 - 20:25

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Castagnotto, il n'y a pas de vidéo spécifique à ce modèle. Pour toute assistance complémentaire, vous pouvez poser votre question ici, vous adresser à votre magasin DROPS ou au forum DROPS. Bon tricot!

17.10.2016 - 08:46

country flag Berit wrote:

Ser at flere spør om hvorfor åpning for ben er på ryggen! Dette finner jeg ingen gode svar på i de svarene dere har gitt. Tror ikke åpningene vi får når vi strikker i 3 deler er til bena. Hva er de til da? Og hvor skal maskene plukkes opp for å strikke bena? Tror hele oppskriften har en grov feil og burde korrigeres og legges ut på nytt.

01.07.2016 - 20:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Berit. Denne opskrift er korrekt. Du starter fra bagen og strikker frem mod halsen. ved 10-19 cm deler du arbejdet i 3 dele (lukker 2 m af to gange = 2 forben). Naar du har strikket de 3 dele (midtpartiet maaler 11 til 20 cm), saetter du alle masker ind paa 1 pind og fortsaetter rundt. Benene kommer ikke paa ryggen.

10.11.2016 - 16:25