DROPS / 88 / 22

DROPS 88-22 by DROPS Design

DROPS Wrap Cardigan in Paris

DROPS 88-22
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL

Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-92-102-112-122 cm
Hem: 70-78-88-98-114 cm

Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
650-750-800-900-1000 gr nr 39, pistachio

DROPS 4 mm and 5 mm needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.
DROPS 4 mm circular needles (for the neck edge and collar), or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 0.95 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.95 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.35£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Gauge: 17 sts x 22 rows on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.

Rib-1: * K 2, P 2 *, repeat * - *.
Rib-2: * K 3, P 3 *, repeat * - *.

Knitting tips (for armhole and neck): Make all decs on right side rows inside 3 sts (in stockinette st) at armhole and inside of 5 sts (in rib = buttonband) along neckband, as follows:
After 3/5 sts: Slip 1 st as if to knit, K 1, psso.
Before 3/5 sts: K 2 tog.

Increasing tips (for center front):
Make all incs on right side rows inside 5 sts rib (buttonband) as follows: inc 1 st by making a yo. On the next row, twist and P the yo.

BACK:
Cast on 64-68-72-88-92 sts on smaller needles. P 1 row (wrong side), then knit
Rib-1 as follows:
Size S + L + XL: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), * K 2, P 2 *, repeat * - * and finish with K 2 and K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
Size M + XXL: 1 edge sts, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat * - * and finish with P 2 and K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
When the piece measures 2 cm change to larger needles and stockinette st, adjusting (inc/dec as needed) to 62-68-76-86-94 sts on the 1st row. When the piece measures 10 cm inc 1 st at each side every 5 cm a total of 6 times = 74-80-88-98-106 sts. When the piece measures 39-40-41-42-43 cm bind off 3-3-4-5-6 sts at each side for armhole. Then dec 1 st at armhole at each side every other row – see knitting tips above – 3-5-7-9-12 times = 62-64-66-70-70 sts.
When the piece measures 56-58-60-62-64 cm bind off the center 16-16-16-20-20 sts for the neck. On the next row dec 1 st at each neck edge = 22-23-24-24-24 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 58-60-62-64-66 cm.

Right front:
Cast on 42-44-46-50-56 sts on smaller needles. P 1 row (wrong side), then establish rib on the next row as follows (from center front edge – right side): K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), K 1, P 1, K 1, P 1 (= 5 buttonband sts), * K 2, P 2 *, repeat * - * and finish with K 1 (edge st knit in garter st) (for sizes M + XXL end the rib with K 2 before edge st). Continue the rib as established.
When the piece measures 2 cm change to larger needles and stockinette st, keeping the 5 buttonband sts as before – on the 1st row after the rib adjust (inc/dec as needed) to 41-44-48-53-57 sts.
Read the entire section before knitting:
Inc at the center front: When the piece measures 3-3-4-5-6 cm inc 1 st at the center front every 3 cm a total of 5 times – see Increasing tips.
Side inc: When the piece measures 10 cm inc at the side as on back.
Neck: When the piece measures 17-18-19-20-21 cm dec 1 st at the center front (inside buttonband sts – see instructions above) every other row: 10-10-10-12-12 times, then every 4 rows 14 times.
Armhole: When the piece measures 39-40-41-42-43 cm bind off for armhole at the side as on back.
After all incs and decs are complete 22-23-24-24-24 sts remain on shoulder. Continue in stockinette st (with 5 buttonband sts as before) until piece measures 58-60-62-64-66 cm, bind off all sts.

Left front:
Cast on and knit the same as the right, reversing shaping.

Sleeve:
Cast on 74-74-80-80-80 sts on smaller needles. P 1 row (wrong side), and then knit Rib-2, keeping 1 st at each side in garter st.
When the piece measures 2 cm dec all K 3 to K 2 = 62-62-67-67-67 sts.
When the piece measures 4 cm dec all P 3 to P 2 = 50-50-54-54-54 sts.
When the piece measures 16 cm, change to larger needle and K 1 row (right side row), decreasing 8-6-8-6-4 sts evenly distributed = 42-44-46-48-50 sts. Then K 1 row (wrong side) and then knit stockinette st.
When the piece measures 18 cm inc 1 st at each side every 3.5-3-3-2.5-2 cm a total of 9-10-10-11-13 times = 60-64-66-70-76 sts.
When sleeve measures 49-49-47-46-45 cm bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2-3-5-6-8 times, then bind off 2 sts at each side until piece measures 55-56-56-56-57 cm, then bind off 3 sts 1 time at each side. Bind off the remaining sts, the piece measures approx. 56-57-57-57-58 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams using edge sts as a seam allowance but leave approx. 3 cm opening (for belt) on right side – start opening 14-15-16-17-18 cm from bottom edge.
Neckband: First knit a small neckband as the base of the collar. Start approx. 18-18-20-22-24 cm down from shoulder at each side and pick up approx. 90-118 sts around the neck on smaller circular needles (pick up from right side in the outermost st).
P 1 row (wrong side), K 3 rows, P 1 row, K 1 row, then bind off all sts. Fold neckband to wrong side so that it hides the picked-up edge and sew in place.
Collar: Pick up from wrong side approx. 90-118 sts (divisible by 4 + 2) in the garter st folded edge on neckband on smaller circular needles. Knit rib as follows (Row 1 = wrong side when the collar folds out): K 2 (edge sts in garter st), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat * - * and finish with P 2 and K 2 (edge sts in garter st). When the collar measures 7 cm inc all K 2 to K 3 = approx. 112-147 sts.
When the collar measures 10 cm inc all P 2 to P 3 = approx. 133-175 sts. When the collar measures 13-13-14-14-15 cm bind off all sts in rib.
Belt: Pick up 12 sts on smaller needles on left front – start where neck shaping began and down approx. 4 cm. P 1 row (wrong side) keeping 1 st in garter st at each side. Then knit rib as follows (seen from right side): K 1 (edge st in garter st), K 1, P 1, K 2, P 2, K 2, P 1, K 1 and K 1 (edge st in garter st).
When belt measures 3 and 6 cm dec 1 st at each side inside of 1 edge st = 8 sts.
Continue until belt measures approx. 70-75-80-85-90 cm, bind off in rib. Knit a second belt on right front.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 26.08.2013
Under Back:
Size M + XXL: 1 edge sts, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat * - * and finish with P 2 and K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 88-22) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (8)

Claudi 24.07.2018 - 20:34:

Liebes Drops-Team Ich bin beim rechten Vorderteil und komme nicht weiter. "Aufnehmen in der Mitte: Gleichzeitig nach 4 cm (Grösse L), gegen die Mitte 1. M erhöhen und alle 3 cm wiederholen total 5 Mal - siehe Tipp. Tipp: Es wird innerhalb des 5 M. Bündchen (=Bord) aufgenommen......" Meine Frage: Wie kann ich einem 5 M. Bord 5 M. aufnehmen ohne den Bordrand zu erhöhen? Sieht auf dem Foto nämlich nicht so aus. Vielen Dank, es ist heute auch sehr heiss. LG

DROPS Design 25.07.2018 kl. 08:14:

Liebe Claudi, es wird jeweils nur 1 Masche zugenommen in jede 3. cm und 5 Mal insgesamt, dh: 1 Reihe mit Zunahme stricken *weiter stricken ohne zunehmen, 3 cm später 1 Reihe mit Zunahme stricken*, von *bis* wiederholen bis Sie 5 Maschen zugenommen haben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Yvonne 13.08.2016 - 17:59:

Hallo liebes Drops Team!Habe ich einen Rechnungs Fehler?Rechtes Vorderteil: Größe S 42 Maschen -1 Masche angleichen +5 Maschen Mitte (5*1) +12 Aufnahmen Seite (wie Rückenteil) -10 Maschen Halsausschnitt -14 Maschen Halsausschnitt -6 Maschen Armloch(1*3,3*1),wie Rückenteil =28 Maschen übrig!!!! Schulter wie Rückenteil 22 Maschen Wohin mit den restlichen (28-22) 6 Maschen?? Vielen Dank im Voraus für ihre Hilfe. Herzliche Grüße Yvonne

DROPS Design 15.08.2016 kl. 08:53:

Liebe Yvonne, Ihr Überlegungsfehler liegt bei den seitlichen Aufnahmen: beim Rückenteil wird auf beiden Seiten aufgenommen, beim Vorderteil nur auf einer Seite (die andere Seite ist ja die Mitte). Das sind genau die 6 Maschen, die Sie zu viel haben.

Sara 09.09.2014 - 19:15:

Står direkt efter "Vänster framstycke".

Helen 09.09.2014 - 19:09:

Hej! Undrar var beskrivningen till ärmarna är, hittar inte den!?! Är klar med fram och bakstycket så vill ju självklart göra ärmarna också!

DROPS Design 10.09.2014 kl. 12:07:

Hej Helen, Ärmen hittar du precis under vänster framst. Lycka till :)

Fleischer Sabine 14.10.2013 - 22:04:

Welche Lauflänge hat die angegebene Wolle?

DROPS Design 15.10.2013 kl. 13:05:

Liebe Sabine, wenn Sie unter "Material" auf den Text: "Siehe Angebote und Farbkarte für: DROPS Paris" klicken, finden Sie alle Informationen zu dieser Qualität.

Catherine 16.07.2013 - 10:37:

Bonjour, Dans les explications pour le dos, il y a 2 fois la taille XL et 0 fois la taille XXL. Quelles sont les explications pour la taille XXL? Merci

DROPS Design 16.07.2013 kl. 11:24:

Bonjour Catherine, effectivement il fallait lire "Taille M et XXL" (corrigé dans le modèle en ligne). Merci, bon tricot !

DROPS Design 01.04.2009 - 09:53:

Hej Annika, även ärmarna skall stickas med med st nr 5 efter resåren! Tack för hjälpen!

Annika 01.04.2009 - 07:36:

Hej, håller på och stickar den här koftan! Undrar över stickstorlek för ärmarna. Fram- och bakstycke stickas med no 5, men ska ärmarna stickas med no 4 även efter resåren? Mvh Annika

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