DROPS / 91 / 27

DROPS 91-27 by DROPS Design

DROPS Crocheted Dress in Karisma Superwash

Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL

Finished measurements:
Bust: 76-84-92-102-112 cm
[29-7/8" - 33" - 36.25" - 40-1/8" - 44"]
Waist: 68-76-86-96-106 cm
[26.75" - 29-7/8" - 33-7/8" - 37.75" - 41.75"]
Hem: 88-96-106-116-126 cm
[34-5/8" - 37.75" - 41.75" - 45-5/8" - 49-5/8"]

Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
650-700-800-850-950 gr nr 62, brown

DROPS 4.5 mm [US F] crochet hook, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

5 DROPS buttons, nr 535

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 3.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Crochet gauge: 16 sc/tr in width and approx. 5 structure pattern rows in height (that is, 1 row sc + 1 row tr x 5) = 10 x 10 cm.
Note: Because of different crochet techniques used by the individual, the gauge may vary, so you might have to drop/go up a hook size to obtain the correct gauge.

Crochet tips: Replace the first sc in every sc row with ch 1 and the first tr in every tr row with ch 4.
Every sc row ends with 1 sc in the ch 4 at the start of previous row and every tr row with 1 tr in 1st ch at start of previous row.

Structure pattern: * 1 row tr, 1 row sc*, repeat from * - * to finished measurements Crochet in each sc/tr from previous row and not in between.

Decreasing tips:
Dec as follows at the start of row: replace 1 sc/tr with 1 sl st.
Dec as follows at end of row: turn piece before last sc/tr and crochet back.

Increasing tips: Inc 1 sc/tr at each side by crocheting 1 extra sc/tr in the next to last sc/tr at each side.


FRONT
Loosely ch 105-114-124-136-148. Crochet the first row as follows: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in the next ch, * skip over 1 ch, 1 sc in each of the 2 following ch *, repeat * - * across row. Sizes L + XL + XXL will end row with 1 sc in each of the last 3 ch (instead of the last 2 ch) = 71-77-84-92-100 sc, turn the work.
Now crochet Structure pattern – see instructions above. When the piece measures 5 cm dec 1 sc/tr at each side every approx. 3-3-3.5-3.5-4 cm a total of 8 times – see decreasing tips above = 55-61-68-76-84 sc/tr.
When the piece measures 30-32-34-36-38 cm inc 1 sc/tr at each side every approx. 6-6-5-5-5 cm a total of 3 times – see increasing tips above = 61-67-74-82-90 sc/tr.
When the piece measures 48-50-52-54-56 cm dec for armhole at each side– see decreasing tips above: 3 sc/tr 0-0-1-1-2 times, 2 sc/tr 1-1-1-2-2 times and 1 sc/tr 0-2-2-3-4 times = 57-59-60-62-62 sc/tr.
When the piece measures 59-62-65-67-70 cm put a marker in the center sc/tr (in Sizes L + XL + XXL put the marker between the 2 center sc/tr).
Now dec for the neck as follows: crochet from shoulder and toward the neck until 8-8-9-9-9 sc/tr remain before the marker, turn the work. Continue to dec at neck edge every row: 2 sc/tr 1 time and 1 sc/tr 1 time = 17-18-18-19-19 sc/tr remains on shoulder.
When the piece measures 66-69-72-75-78 cm cut yarn and fasten. Repeat on the other side of the neck.

BACK
Crochet the same as the front. Bind off for armhole as on front and continue until the piece measures 64-67-70-73-76 cm.
Now crochet only over the outermost 17-18-18-19-19 sc/tr at right side.
When the piece measures 66-69-72-75-78 cm cut yarn and fasten.
Repeat on left side, but when the piece measures 66-69-72-75-78 cm crochet 3 rows of sc (with 1 sc in each sc from previous row) for buttonband, then cut yarn and fasten. Do not crochet over the center 23-23-24-24-24 sc/tr = neck.

SLEEVE
Ch 51-52-55-58-61 loosely. First row crochet as follows: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in the next ch, * skip over 1 ch, 1 sc in each of the next 2 ch *, repeat * - * across row – Sizes M + L + XL + XXL will end row with 1 sc in each of the last 3 ch (instead of the last 2 ch) = 35-36-38-40-42 sc, turn the work. Now crochet structure pattern as on Body.
When the piece measures 10 cm inc 1 sc/tr at each side every approx. 5-4.5-4-3.5-3 cm a total of 8-9-10-10-11 times = 51-54-58-60-64 sc/tr – see increasing tips above.
When the piece measures 49-48-48-46-45 cm dec for sleeve cap at each side every row – see decreasing tips: 4 sc/tr 1 time and 3 sc/tr 1 time, then bind off 2 sc/tr at each side until piece measures 55-55-56-56-57 cm, cut yarn and fasten.

ASSEMBLY
Sew right shoulder edge to edge.
Neckband: Crochet approx. 56-64 sc around the neck (including over button edge). Then crochet structure pattern back and forth.
When neckband measures approx. 8-8-8-9-9 cm cut yarn and fasten.
Buttonhole: Crochet 1 row sc along left shoulder on front and continue up along neckband. Turn piece and crochet sc back, and make 5 buttonholes evenly spaced – there should be 2 buttonholes on neckband (the top one approx. 1.5 - 2 cm from top edge), the remaining ones evenly distributed. 1 buttonhole = sc up to where the buttonhole should be, ch 4, 1 sc in the same sc.
Sew in sleeves. If you have trouble making a nice seam, you can crochet 1 sc alternately in armhole and sleeve cap with ch 1 between them.
On left shoulder, lay buttonband on back under the one on front and sew or crochet through both layers.
Sew sleeve and side seams edge to edge.
Sew buttons on left shoulder on back.

LACY LOWER EDGE ON DRESS
Start at the side and crochet from lower edge down.
Row 1: 1 sc in first st, ch 6 (= 1 tr + ch 2), * skip over 2 sc, 1 tr in the next sc, ch 2 *, repeat from * - * and finish with 1 sl st in ch 4 at the start of row.
Row 2: ch 7 (= 1 tr + ch 3), * 1 tr in the next tr, ch 3 *, repeat * - * and finish with 1 sl st in ch 4 at the start of row.
Rows 3 and 4: Same as Row 2.
Row 5 (= ruffle): ch 5 (= 1 tr + ch 1), 1 tr in first ch-loop, ch 1, 1 tr in same ch-loop, ch 1, 1 tr in same ch-loop, ** ch 2, in the next ch-loop crochet: * 1 tr, ch 1 *, repeat from * - * a total of 5 times, ch 2, in the next ch-loop crochet: * 1 tr, ch 1 *, repeat from * - * a total of 4 times **, repeat from ** - ** around row and finish with ch 2 and 1 sl st in ch 4 at the start of row.

CROCHET RUFFLE AT LOWER EDGE OF SLEEVES
1 sc in first st, ch 5 (1 tr + ch 1), then crochet alternately 1 tr and 2 tr in each st with ch 1 between each tr around row, finish with 1 sl st in ch 4 at the start of row.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 91-27) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (33)

Gerri 03.11.2019 - 21:39:

The buttonhole are very small if I am performing them correctly. So my question is are they functional or just for show?

DROPS Design 04.11.2019 kl. 07:11:

Hi Gerri, The buttonholes are functional. Make sure you are working your chain stitches in on the hook so they are the right length. 1 chain stitch should be as long as a double crochet is wide. Hope this helps and happy crocheting!

Charlotte 21.02.2019 - 17:40:

Goedemiddag, Vandaag de mouwen gemaakt, maar ik begrijp niet goed hoe ze aan het pand vastgemaakt moeten worden. De bovenkant van de mouw kan ik mooi vastmaken aan het voor of achterpand, maar de mouw is niet lang genoeg om rondom vastgemaakt te worden. moet ik nog twee mouwen erbij haken? Ik hoop dat u mijn vraag begrijpt en dat u me verder kunt helpen.

DROPS Design 22.02.2019 kl. 14:09:

Dag Chralotte,

Je vraag is me niet helemaal duidelijk. De mouwkop moet tegen de schouder komen de onderkant van de mouw in de zijnaad. Als de mouw te krap is om hem erin te zetten kan het zijn dat de stekenverhouding niet helemaal klopt en dat je misschien extra toeren in de mouw kop moet verwerken. (Met extra mouw bedoel je denk ik extra toer?),

Kathy 05.02.2019 - 04:44:

So I'm trying to figure out how much you want and I need and I see a that the yarn described here is in 50 grams skins and for a small it would be approximately 650 grams.I need to know how many yards of yarn I will need of a medium-grade yarn. And I realize proximate measurement but can you help me at all. I have looked at a number of conversion charts and I still can't figure it out.

DROPS Design 05.02.2019 kl. 08:08:

Hi Kathy, The Karisma yarn has approx. 109 yds per 50 g ball, so for 650 grams you will get 13 x 109 yds = 1417 yds. Happy crocheting!

Tina 30.07.2018 - 17:08:

I’ve now almost finished making this dress in olive green and I’m very happy with the result. I made the skirt part longer. I would like to make a second one in a different colour, but using the star stitch, would I need more than 650g for a small size? How much wool would I need?

DROPS Design 31.07.2018 kl. 09:43:

Dear Tina, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every individual request. You are welcome to contact your DROPS store for any further personnal assistance. Happy crocheting!

Linda 18.06.2017 - 10:41:

Ik zie nr 62 (bruin) van DROPS Karisma Superwash niet meer op de kleurenkaart staan; is deze kleur uit het assortiment gehaald?

DROPS Design 01.11.2017 kl. 19:02:

Hoi Linda, Ja, dat klopt, deze kleur is niet meer in het assortiment. Donkerbruin of chocoladebruin is een goed alternatief.

Hilde 04.02.2017 - 17:04:

Hoeveel bollen garen heb ik nodig voor deze jurk?

DROPS Design 06.02.2017 kl. 13:14:

Hoi Hilde. Het staat bovenaan het patroon: Maat: S - M - L - XL - XXL, Materialen: DROPS Karisma Superwash van Garnstudio, 650-700-800-850-950 gr nr. 62, bruin. 1 bol Karisma is 50 gr. En je kan je maat kiezen door de afmetingen onderaan op de maattekening te vergelijken met je eigen afmetingen.

Anna Townend 31.12.2016 - 13:21:

Hello and happy new year! I'm having to re-start the dress as something went wrong. I'm wondering if it's because i ignored this instruction in the crochet info as i didnt understand. Pls could you clarify what it means? "Finish every “dc row” with a dc in the 4th ch from beginning of the previous row, and every “dtr row” with a dtr in the 1st ch from". Thank you!

DROPS Design 02.01.2017 kl. 08:43:

Dear Mrs Townend, at the beg of each row you will replace the first st with some chains: start each dc row with 1 ch (= 1st dc) and start each dtr row with 4 ch (= 1st dtr) - at the end of each dc row work the last dc in the 4th ch from beg of previous row and at the end of each dtr row work the last dtr in the 1st ch from beg of previous row. Happy crocheting!

Anna Townend 29.10.2016 - 13:45:

Hi. I'm working the armholes on the front. I know what binding off is but I don't know how these instructions relate to it: 3dc/dtr 0-0-0-1-2 times, 2 dc/dtr 1-1-1-2-2 times and 1 dc/dtr 0-2-2-3-4 times = 57-59-60-62-62 dc/dtr. I'm not sure what the 0-0-0-1-2 refers to. Please can you help? Thanks!

DROPS Design 31.10.2016 kl. 09:48:

Dear Mrs Townend, in the first 3 sizes you will not dec 3 sts, but directely start dec 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 0-2-2 times (= only in the 2nd and 3rd size). Happy crocheting!

Lena 17.03.2015 - 15:11:

Hi, I am confused about the border at the bottom. Why does 1dc 6Ch equals (1 dtr + 2ch skip 2dc 1dtr in next dc, 2ch)?? which one am I supposed to follow? Same for the following rows.. thanks

DROPS Design 17.03.2015 kl. 16:16:

Dear Lena, a bracket is missing and will be added, you start with 1 dc, then work 6 ch (= replace 1 dtr + 2 ch), then work from *-* and join round with 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round. Happy crocheting!

Carolyn 04.12.2014 - 03:49:

I'm confused about the back. I have finished the front, and it says to make the back the same way... at least past the armholes. After that, it says to continue until it measures 73 cm (I'm making an XL). BUT, do you make the neck the same way as you do the front? For the front, the neck was started at 67 cms, not 73. So do you not make a neck decrease in the back?? Or do you go to 73 cm, then only make a row or two of 19? Thanks you for any help you can give me to clear this up!!

DROPS Design 04.12.2014 kl. 11:13:

Dear Carolyn, neckline on front piece is deeper than on back piece - on back piece you continue until piece measures 73 cm, then work for shoulder on the 19 sts on the right side of piece for 2 more cm (piece measures 75 cm) - on the left side, you will crochet longer to make the buttonband. Happy crocheting!

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