DROPS / 91 / 5

DROPS 91-5 by DROPS Design

DROPS Raglan Sweater in Alpaca.

  • DROPS 91-5 - DROPS Raglan Sweater in Alpaca.
Sizes: S - M - L - XL- XXL

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
250 - 300 - 300 - 350 - 350 g colour no. 5565, rust mix

Knitting needles: DROPS circular and double pointed 3 mm and 3.5 mm ndls [or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge].

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
23 sts x 30 rows st st with larger ndls = 10 x 10 cm

Rib: *K 2, p 4*, repeat *to* [= right side rows].
Work k above k and p above p.

Raglan decreases: Before the marker thread work k 2 tog, k 1. After the marker thread work k 1, slip 1 k-wise, k 1, pass the slipped st over the k st.

Garment information: If the gauge is not correct in the height and the knitting is too tight, the raglan shape will be too short and the armhole too small. To remedy this work 1 extra row without dec at regular intervals as often as necessary. The sweater is worked entirely in a circular manner to the neckline = no seaming.

Back and front:
With circular 3 mm ndls and Alpaca cast on 180-204-228-252-276 sts. Work Rib around for 6 cm. Change to 3.5 mm circular ndls. Work st st around and on the first row adjust sts to 172-192-212-236-264 sts. Insert a thread marker at each side with 86-96-106-118-132 sts between markers. When the garment meas 11 cm inc 1 st at each side of both thread markers. 1 inc = k into the back and into the front of the same st. Inc in this manner every 4.5 - 4.5 - 5 - 7 - 7 cm a total of 5-5-5-4-4 times = 192-212-232-252-280 sts. When the garment meas 33-34-35-36-37 cm bind off for armholes 4 sts at each side of both thread markers [= 8 sts total at each side] = 88-98-108-118-132 sts rem on each the back and the front. Put the garment aside while working the sleeves.

Sleeves: With double pointed 3 mm ndls and Alpaca cast on 66 -72-72-78-78 sts. Work Rib around for 8 cm. Change to double pointed 3.5 mm ndls. Work st st around and on the first row adjust sts to 60-64-64-70-70 sts. Place a thread marker around the first st on the row [= underarm st]. When the sleeve meas 14-11-11-13-13 cm inc 1 st at each side of the marked st and inc in this manner every 3 - 3 - 2.5 - 2.5 - 2 cm a total of 11-12-14-13-16 times = 82-88-92-96-102 sts. When the sleeve meas 48-48-47-4747 cm bind off 8 middle underarm sts. Put the sleeve aside.
Cast on and work the other sleeve the same.

Raglan: Transfer sleeve sts to the circular ndl, placing one sleeve in each armhole space between back and front. There are now 324-356-384-412-452 sts on the round. Insert 1 thread marker in each of the 4 junctions between sleeves and back/front. Read rem text before continuing!

Raglan dec: See description above. Dec are worked at each side of all marker threads.

Raglan dec on back and front: For size S only: Work 1 row without dec. Then dec 1 st at each side every 4 rows twice. All sizes: Dec 1 st at each side every 2 rows 24 - 27 - 28 - 26 - 22 times and on every row 0 - 4 - 5 - 12 - 23 times.

Raglan dec on sleeves: All sizes: Dec 1 st at each side every 2 rows 25 - 25 - 26 - 27 - 27 times and on every row 5 - 8 - 9 -10 - 13 times.

Neckline shaping: At the same time, when the garment mid front meas 47-49-51-53-55 cm transfer the middle 20-20-26-2626 sts to a holder or thread. Work back and forth from here and bind off at each side of the neckline sts on alt rows further 2 sts twice and 1 st 3 times. When all raglan dec have been worked there are 66-66-72-72-72 sts rem on the ndl and the garment should meas approx. 54-56-58-60-62 cm to the shoulder.

Neckband: Pick up and knit with the yarn and 3 mm double pointed ndls approx. 34 - 40 sts along the front's neck shaping [incl. sts on the holder]. P 1 row around while adjusting sts to 90-90-102-102-102 sts. K the next row around. Thereafter work Rib for 3 cm. Bind off evenly rib-wise.

Finishing: Sew armhole openings.


diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 91-5) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (57)

country flag Ann Huguet 29.04.2021 - 18:21:

Jag har kört fast totalt. Jag har stickat större delen av raglanminskningarna utan problem. Men nu kommer jag till halsringningen... Hur kan jag avmaska med rundsticka när de 26 maskorna satts åt sidan? Eller ska jag nu plötsligt sticka fram och tillbaka? Dåligt att detta inte är beskrivet ordentligt. Tack för att ni räddar min tröja! Mvh Ann

user icon DROPS Design 30.04.2021 kl. 07:17:

Hej Ann. Efter att du har satt de mittersta maskorna på en tråd så stickar du, precis som du skriver, vidare fram och tillbaka. Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Anneke 21.03.2021 - 13:20:

Hartelijk dank voor het snelle antwoord!

user icon DROPS Design 22.03.2021 kl. 20:55:

Dag Anneke,

Veel breiplezier!

country flag Anneke 19.03.2021 - 21:11:

Als ik het afkanten voor de hals en de minderingen voor de raglan voltooid heb staan er conform patroon 72 steken op de naald. Dan moet ik 34 - 40 steken opnemen langs de hals, en staan er dus minimaal 106 steken op de naald. Daarna moet ik meerderen tot 102 steken. Dat klopt m.i. niet, want ik heb al minimaal 106 steken. Wordt hier soms bedoeld minderen in plaats van meerderen?

user icon DROPS Design 21.03.2021 kl. 10:46:

Dag Anneke,

Klopt, het staat niet goed omschreven. Het is de bedoeling dat je het aantal steken aanpast (in plaatst van meerdert). Het is nu aangepast in de beschrijving.

country flag Anna 03.01.2021 - 07:36:

Czy jest szansa na polskie tłumaczenie?

user icon DROPS Design 03.01.2021 kl. 16:01:

Witaj Anno! Pewnie, zajmę się tym jutro :) Pozdrawiamy noworocznie

country flag Maija 03.12.2020 - 15:42:

Hei! En ymmärrä eroa etu- ja takakappaleen raglankavennusten ja hihan raglankavennusten välillä. Jos hihan kavennukset tehdään siinä kohdassa, jossa etu/takakappale vaihtuu hihaksi, niin missä kohdassa etu- ja takakappaleen kavennus tehdään?

country flag Sicard Hélène 30.11.2020 - 14:13:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas le décompte des mailles au debut. pourquoi passer de 180 m à 179 m (nombre impair!) avant de séparer le pull en 2 ? et comment la moitié de 179 peut faire 86 ? merci

user icon DROPS Design 01.12.2020 kl. 10:00:

Bonjour Mme Sicard, c'était une faute de frappe, vous devez ajuster à 172 et non 179 m, la correction a été faite, merci pour votre retour et bon tricot!

country flag Birgit 30.08.2020 - 08:42:

Hallo, Ich möchte mir den Pulli 91-5 stricken. Ich habe Größe 44/46 Welcher Größe entspricht das in der Anleitung? Vielen Dank schon im Vorraus Grüße Birgit Seiz

user icon DROPS Design 31.08.2020 kl. 09:46:

Liebe Birgit, messen Sie einen Pullover, den Sie gerne haben und vergleichen Sie die Maßen mit den von der Skizze - so finden Sie am besten die passende Größe - mehr lesen Sie hier. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Wanda 24.02.2020 - 16:22:

Beste Drops, Een vraag: Klopt het wel dat er na het breien van de boord geminderd moet worden voor de panden. Bij de meeste patronen moet je nemelijk boven de boord juist meerderen. Bij voorbaat dank!

user icon DROPS Design 28.02.2020 kl. 19:50:

Dag Wanda,

Ja hoor, dat klopt! Vaak moet je inderdaad meerderen, maar bij dit model dus niet.

country flag Lien 25.07.2019 - 12:11:

Dankjewel, nu begrijp ik het. In het patroon staat steeds langs weerskanten van de merkdraad te minderen, ik las dit als 'langs allebei de kanten', vandaar dat ik in de war was. Bedankt voor de hulp!

country flag Lien 18.07.2019 - 18:53:

Beste Drop Design, In het patroon staat : Minderen op het voor- en achterpand: Minder in elke 4e nld als volgt: 2 keer Minder op de mouwen: Minder in elke 2e nld: 25- keer. Wanneer ik om te beginnen bij het voor- en achterpand elke 4e naald minder aan weerskanten van de merkdraden, en bij de armen elke 2e naald, dan vallen de minderingen van panden en mouwen dus samen bij de 4e naald, zodat ik die ronde in totaal 16 keer minder? Dit lijkt me gek, of klopt dat zo?

user icon DROPS Design 23.07.2019 kl. 11:37:

Dag Lien,

Je mindert bij de raglanlijn aan de kant van de panden eerst in elke 4e naald en dit doe je 2 keer en daarna in elke 2e naald aan de kant van de panden. Bij de mouwen minder je 25 keer elke 2e naald en later 2 keer op elke naald. Je mindert dus op een gegeven moment tegelijkertijd aan de kant van de mouwen en aan de kant van de panden. Maar je hebt 4 raglanlijnen, dus je maakt nooit meer dan 8 minderingen op een naald.

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