DROPS / 91 / 8

DROPS 91-8 by DROPS Design

DROPS Jacket in Karisma

Sizes: S - M - L - XL- XXL

Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
450 - 500-550 -600 -650 g colour no. 50, grey/green mix 50 g for all sizes colour no.62, brown

Knitting needles:
DROPS 4.5 mm or size needed to obtain correct gauge. DROPS circular 4.5 mm

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
20 sts x 26 rows stocking st with 4.5 mm ndls
= 10 x 10 cm

Rib: *K 3, p 3*, repeat *to*. Work k above k and p above p.

Back: With grey/green mix Karisma and 4.5 mm ndls cast on 36-44-52-64-74 sts [includes 1 edge st at each side].
Work st st and at the same time cast on at each side on alt rows 5 sts once, 4 sts once, 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 3 times = 72-80-88-100-110 sts. When the back meas 8-8-8-9-9 cm in the middle inc 1 st at each side every 2 - 2 - 2.5 - 3 - 3 cm a total of 6-6-6-5-5 times = 8492-100-110-120 sts. When the back in the middle meas 21-22-23-24-25 cm, shape armholes: Bind off at each side on alt rows 3 sts once, 2 sts 0-1-2-4-6 times and 1 st 2-3-4-4-5 times = 74-76-78-80-80 sts rem. When the back in the middle meas 36-38-40-42-44 cm bind off the middle 34-34-34-36-38 sts for neckline. Bind off further 1 st at each side of the neckline sts on the next row = 19-20-21-21-20 shoulder sts rem at each side. Bind off when the back in the middle meas 38-40-42-44-46 cm.

Left front: With grey/green mix Karisma and 4.5 mm ndls cast on 18-22-26-32-37 sts [includes 1 edge st at each side]. Before
continuing, read the next 2 paragraphs.

Shaping the edge mid front: Work st st and at the same time cast on toward mid front on alt rows 3 sts once, 2 sts twice and 1 st twice. Thereafter inc 1 st every 4 rows 3 times.

Shaping the side edge: At the same time, when the front meas 2-2-2-3-3 cm inc 1 st toward the side every 2 - 2 - 2.5 - 3 - 3 cm 6-6-6-5-5 times. After all inc there will be 36-40-44-49-54 sts on the ndl.
When the front meas 15-16-17-18-19 cm shape the armhole at the side as described for the back = 31-32-33-34-34 sts on the ndl. When the front meas 25-27-29-30-32 cm bind off 1 st toward mid front for neckline on alt rows 6-6-6-7-6 times, then bind off 2 sts on alt rows 3-3-3-3-4 times = 19-20-21-21-20 shoulder sts rem. Bind off when the front meas 32-34-36-38-40 cm.

Right front: Cast on and work a s mirror image of the left front.

Sleeves: With brown Karisma and 4.5 mm ndls cast on 65-65-72-72-79 sts [includes 1 edge st at each side]. P 1 row [= wrong side]. Thereafter work 2 rows Rib (k 3, p 4). Change to grey/green mix Karisma and continue working Rib. When the sleeve meas 2 cm dec all p-4 sections to p-3 = 56-56-62-62-68 sts. When the sleeve meas 14 cm k all sts on the next right side row. K the next row white dec evenly spaced to 52-52-56-56-60 sts. Work st st. When the sleeve meas 21-191-9-18-19 cm inc 1 st inside the edge st at each side every 5.5 - 3.5 - 3.5 - 2.5 - 2 cm a total of 6-9-9-12-13 times = 64-70-74-80-86 sts on the ndl. When the sleeve meas 52-51-50-49-47 cm shape sleeve cap: Bind off at each side on alt rows 3 sts once, 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 0-1-2-4-6 times. Bind off further 2 sts at beg of each row until the sleeve meas 57 cm in the middle. Bind off 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows. Bind off rem sts when the sleeve meas 58 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Sew sleeves on. Sew side seams and sleeve seams inside edge sts.

Bands: Start mid back from the right side of the garment. With 4.5 circular ndls and grey/green mix Karisma, pick up and knit a total of 348-384-414-456-492 sts evenly spaced along the neckline edge + left front edge + along the back + up the right front edge to mid back. The number of sts must be in multiples of 6. Note! Take care to pick up enough sts along the two sides [below armholes] so the ribbing is not tight here.

Work in a circular manner as follows: P 1 row around and k 1 row around. Thereafter work Rib. When the Rib meas 3 cm inc 1 st in each p-3 section to p-4. Note! To make these inc knit into the front and into the back of the last k-st before each p-3 section. The "knot" will then place itself toward the p-sts. When the Rib meas 7 cm inc all p-4 sts to p-5 = approx. 464-512552-608-656 sts around. When the Rib meas 11 cm change to brown Karisma and on this next row inc all p-5 sections to p-6, except do not inc sts along the back's middle 60-65 neckline sts. There are approx. 512-566-611-674-728 sts around. Work 1 row k above k and p above p. Bind off loosely rib-wise.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 91-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

Fanny 27.01.2016 - 10:28:

Voilà, mon petit boléro est terminé, et après avoir suivi vos explications à la lettre, est superbe et me va comme un gant. Merci de votre patience avec mes questions. La bordure bien longue donne tout son charme au modèle; un vrai défi de patience, mais le résultat en vaut la peine!

Fanny 21.01.2016 - 18:43:

Bonjour, c'est encore moi! J'ai bien relevé toutes mes mailles, et avant de faire un très long deuxième rang, je me permets de vous redemander si on doit vraiment tricoter en rond, en joignant le début et la fin du rang: en faisant comme ça, j'obtiens un tube fermé. Merci de votre patience ;-)

DROPS Design 22.01.2016 kl. 10:47:

Bonjour Fannny, la bordure se tricote en rond tout autour de l'ouverture du gilet = on tricote toujours sur l'endroit et on n'a pas de coutures. Tricotez en côtes et augmentez dans les côtes comme indiqué. (NB: petit ajustement fait sous les 1ères augmentations de la bordure). Bon tricot!

Fanny 16.01.2016 - 11:48:

Bonjour, pour tricoter la bordure, vous dites de tricoter en rond en JOIGNANT le tricot ; je ne comprends pas: si je fais comme vous le dites, ma bordure formera un tube fermé? Merci d'éclairer ma lanterne :-)

DROPS Design 18.01.2016 kl. 13:51:

Bonjour Fanny, quand vous avez relevé toutes les mailles de la bordure autour de l'ouverture du gilet, placez un marqueur et continuez en rond = la 1ère m tricotée au début du tour suivant sera la 1ère des mailles relevées pour la bordure. Bon tricot!

Guilaine 05.11.2015 - 13:45:

Pardon,mais comment est-il possible que l'échancrure de la manche puisse mesurer de 17 à 21cm si on la commence à 52cm et la termine à 58cm???

DROPS Design 05.11.2015 kl. 14:13:

Bonjour Guilaine, les 17 à 26 cm correspondent à la hauteur d'emmanchure = largeur de la manche assemblée (= pliée en double). L'arrondi de la manche se forme en rabattant les mailles à partir de 52-47 cm (cf taille). Bon tricot!

Catherine De Looz 29.07.2015 - 17:15:

Bonjour. Pour le nombre de mailles, pour le dos, c'est 46 ou 44? Il me semble que les nombres sont inversés. Merci de répondre. Bonne journée.

DROPS Design 30.07.2015 kl. 11:26:

Bonjour Mme De Looz, en taille S, on monte 36 m (nbe corrigé) et en taille M on en monte 44 m. Merci. Bon tricot!

June 24.05.2015 - 10:42:

Er oppskriften rettet opp for feil? Etter hva jeg kan se så er det noe feil her! Øking på frontene gir et større antall masker enn det oppgitte totalantallet. Og når man minsker maskeantallet på ryggpartiet blir også det totale maskeantallet feil i følge det som blir oppgitt. Vil gjerne har korrekte tall på alt. Prøvde meg på en i XXL tidligere, det ble feil, og nå holder jeg på med M som også ser ut til å være feil.

DROPS Design 25.05.2015 kl. 09:54:

Hej June, Opskriften stemmer, hvis du skriver hvor du er, hvor mange masker der står i opskriften og hvor mange masker du har, så skal vi hjælpe dig at regne ud hvor det går galt. God fornøjelse!

Yvonne 27.01.2014 - 02:23:

In den ersten Reihen beim Rückenteil nimmt man ings. 18 Maschen zu, bei Größe xxl schlägt man 74 Maschen an, 74+18 sind bei mir aber keine 110 Maschen die man nach dem ersten Satz haben sollte. Habe ich etwas übersehen? schöne Grüße Yvonne

DROPS Design 27.01.2014 kl. 11:11:

Liebe Yvonne, Sie nehmen die 18 M auf beiden Seiten auf: 74 + 18 + 18 = 110 M

Juin 23.01.2014 - 17:46:

à quelle taille correspond S- M - L - XL - XXL? , 33, 38 etc

DROPS Design 24.01.2014 kl. 09:28:

Bonjour Mme Juin, les tailles sont différentes d'un pays à l'autre, et évoluent dans le temps. Nous avons ainsi opté pour des schémas de mesure fiables, comparez celles d'un de vos vêtements similaires au schéma pour trouver votre taille. Bon tricot!

Julia 02.01.2014 - 12:34:

Ich möchte diese Jacke stricken allerdings mit einer dickeren Wolle und Nadeln Nr.7. Ist das empfehlenswert? Zur Anleitung habe ich eine Frage: Wenn man zum ersten Mal die Maschenzahl erhöht hat man doch danach 18 Maschen mehr und nicht 36. Es soll in jeder 2. Reihe erhöht werden 1x5, 1x4, 2x3, 1x3. Das ergibtfür mich 18. Habe ich was falsch verstanden?

DROPS Design 03.01.2014 kl. 08:55:

Liebe Julia, wir raten davon ab, die Jacke mit einer dickeren Wolle zu stricken, es sollte in jedem Fall ein Material der Garngruppe B sein. Und Sie haben 18 Maschen mehr - da Sie am Anfang 18 Maschen hatten, ergibt dies 36 Maschen.

Theresa 24.11.2009 - 14:02:

Cast on number for the smallest size should read "36" instead of "46"

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