DROPS Baby / 4 / 9

Jester by DROPS Design

DROPS harlequin set, jacket, trousers and socks in “Alpaca”.

Tags: jackets, pants, sets, socks,
Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 years)
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80 (86/92 – 98/104)

Materials: DROPS Alpaca, from Garnstudio
The whole set:
Girl: 100-150-150 (200-200) g colour no 3800 old pink
100-100-150 (150-150) g colour no 2110 wheat
50-50-50 (100-100) g colour no 3620 red
50-50-50 (100-100) g colour no 3720 medium pink
50-50-50 (50-50) g colour no 100 off-white

Boy: 100-150-150 (200-200) g colour no 5575 navy blue
100-100-150 (150-150) g colour no 7120 light greyish green
50-50-50 (100-100) g colour no 6360 blue
50-50-50 (100-100) g colour no 3800 old pink
50-50-50 (50-50) g colour no 100 off-white

Jacket only:
Girl: 50-50-100 (100-100) g colour no 2110 wheat
50-50-50 (100-100) g colour no 3620 red
50-50-50 (50-50) g colour no 3720 medium pink
50-50-50 (50-50) g colour no 100 off-white

Boy: 50-50-100 (100-100) g colour no 7120 light greyish green
50-50-50 (100-100) g colour no 6360 blue
50-50-50 (50-50) g colour no 3800 old pink
50-50-50 (50-50) g colour no 100 off-white

DROPS circular needle and double pointed needles size 2 mm and 2.5 mm
DROPS button, 5 pcs

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100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JACKET:
Knitting tension: 26 sts x 35 rows on needles size 2.5 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.
Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows.
Garter st, on circular needle: K 1 round, P 1 round.
Buttonhole: Make buttonholes on blue front edge when piece measures 1-1-1 (1-1) cm, 6-7-8 (9-9) cm, 11-12-14 (17-17) cm, 16-18-21 (25-26) cm and 22-24-28 (31-34) cm. 1 buttonhole = cast off st 3 and 4 from edge and cast on 2 new sts on return row.
Triangle pattern: See diagram. The diagram shows the pattern from the right side.

Front and back piece:
Knitted back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Beg by knitting a row of triangles as follows: Cast on 8 sts on needle size 2.5 mm with navy blue and knit garter st back and forth on needle, at the same time dec on every other row on the left side: 1 st 7 times = 1 st left on needle. Change to off-white and inc 7 sts on next row = 8 sts on needle, continue in garter st and dec as described for the first triangle (1 triangle = approx 3.5 cm).
Continue like this and change colour for each triangle until there are 14-16-18 (20-22) triangles (piece measures approx 50-56-62 (70-76) cm). Now pick up 132-144-162 (180-198) sts on needle size 2.5 mm in the outermost sts in the row of triangles as follows: 66-72-81 (90-99) sts in blue and 66-72-81 (90-99) sts in light greyish green.
Knit next row from WS as follows: Cast on 7 sts in light greyish green knit 66-72-81 (90-99) stocking st in light greyish green, change to blue and knit remaining sts in blue, cast on 7 sts in blue = 146-158-176 (194-212) sts.
Measure piece from here.
Continue in these colours (change colour mid back) and knit the 7 sts each side (front edges) in garter st – remember buttonholes on blue front edge, see explanation above. When piece measures 17-18-21 (24-24) cm divide piece for front and back pieces: 40-43-48 (52-57) sts = front piece, 66-72-80 (90-98) sts = back piece, 40-43-48 (52-57) sts = front piece, and complete each piece separately.

Front piece: 40-43-48 (52-57) sts. When piece measures 23-25-29 (32-35) cm dec towards neckline on every other row as follows: 12-13-15 (16-20) sts 1 time, 3 sts 2 times, 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 1 time. Cast off remaining sts when piece measures 27-29-33 (37-40) cm.

Back piece: = 66-72-80 (90-98) sts. When piece measures 25-27-31 (35-38) cm cast off the middle 20-22-24 (28-34) sts for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row as follows: 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 1 time. Cast off remaining sts when piece measures 27-29-33 (37-40) cm.

Right sleeve: Cast on 40-40-42 (44-44) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with old pink and knit 4 rounds garter st. Continue in stocking st. When piece measures 3cm inc 2 sts mid under arm a total of 6-9-10 (12-20) times as follows:
Size 3 months: on every 5th round
Size 6/9 months + 12/18 months + 2 years: on every 4th round
Size 3/4 years: on every 3rd round
= 52-58-62 (68-84) sts. When piece measures 12-15-16 (18-22) cm knit M.1, knit 1 round in light greyish green and cast off remaining sts in light greyish green.

Left sleeve: Cast on and knit as right sleeve, but reverse the colours.

Assembly:
Sew shoulder seams.

Collar: Triangles, see M.1. Cast on 8 sts on needle size 2.5 mm with navy blue and knit a row of triangles as explained under jacket until there are 10-10-11 (12-13) triangles on row. Now pick up 80-85-90 (95-100) sts on needle size 2.5 mm with navy blue in the outermost sts in the row of triangles. Put piece aside. Pick up 80-85-90 (95-100) sts round the neck on needle size 2.5 mm navy blue (do not pick up on front edges) and knit tog sts from collar and sts from body piece as follows: knit tog first st from collar with first st from body piece, etc. Change to needle size 2 mm, pick up 10 sts on each front edge and knit 4 rows garter st on all sts. Cast off.
Set in sleeves and sew on buttons.

TROUSERS:
DROPS circular needle size 2 mm and 2.5 mm

Knitting tension: 26 sts x 35 rows on needles size 2.5 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.
Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.
Pattern: *M.1, then 6-6-7 (7-8) cm blue, M.1, 6-6-7 (7-8) cm old pink, M.1, 6-6-7 (7-8) cm light greyish green*. Repeat from *-*. See diagram, 1 diagram = a pattern repeat and diagram is seen from the RS.

Left leg: Cast on 80-88-88 (96-96) sts on circular needle size 2 mm with light greyish green and knit 8 cm Rib (to be folded double afterwards, so measure as 4 cm). Change to circular needle 2.5 mm and continue in pattern and stocking st, at the same time inc on inside leg on every 2-3-3 (4-5) cm: 2 sts 4 times = 88-96-96 (104-104) sts. Remember the knitting tension. When piece measures 17-18-20 (25-28) cm divide piece at inside leg (= split) and complete piece back and forth on needle. Inc 1 st each side for seam = 90-98-98 (106-106) sts. When piece measures 18-20-23 (27-30) cm cast off 5-7-3 (5-5) sts each side = 80-84-92 (96-96) sts. Put piece aside and knit the other leg.

Right leg: knit as left leg.

Trousers: Put left and right leg in on the same circular needle = 160-168-184 (192-192) sts. Knit 3 rounds and now inc mid back on both sides of the middle 2 sts on every other round: 1 st 8 times, at the same time dec mid front on every other round on both sides of the middle 2 sts: 1 st 8 times = 160-168-184 (192-192) sts. When piece measures 35-39-44 (49-53) cm dec 24-28-34 (32-32) sts evenly distributed on round = 136-140-150 (160-160) sts. Continue in the same stripe colour and knit 3 cm stocking st, P 1 round = folding edge, 3 cm stocking st and cast off. Turn edge double towards WS and fasten. Sew tog split on inside of legs and sew tog the opening between legs from mid front to mid back.


SOCKS:
Size: 3 – 6/9 – 9/12 months (2 -3/4 years)
Foot length: 10-11-12 (14-15) cm.

DROPS pointed needles size 2 mm and 2.5 mm
DROPS crochet hook size 2.5 mm

Knitting tension: 26 sts x 52 rows on needles size 2.5 mm in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.
Garter st, back and forth on needle: Knit all rows.

Cast on 46-50-50 (54-54) sts on needle size 2 mm with navy blue and knit 6-7-7 (8-8) cm Rib back and forth on needle. Knit 1 row stocking st and change to needle size 2.5 mm, at the same time dec 10-14-8 (12-8) sts = 36-36-42 (42-46) sts. Knit next row as follows from RS: *K2 tog, 1 yo*, repeat from *-*. Knit 1 row stocking st. Put 12-12-14 (12-14) sts on a thread each side and knit 6-7-9 (10-10) cm garter st on the middle 12-12-14 (18-18) sts. Put sts from threads back on needle and pick up 16-18-23 (26-26) sts on each side of the middle piece = 68-72-88 (94-98) sts. Knit 3-4-4 (5-5) cm garter st on all sts, at the same time after 2-2.5-2.5 (3-3) cm dec on every other row as follows: 1 st at the beg and 1 st at the end of row and K2 tog on both sides of the middle 2 sts for another 3-4-4 (5-5) cm. Cast off and sew seam under foot and along the Rib – sew the upper part of the Rib from WS and fold it double. Crochet a chain on needle size 2.5 mm, approx 30-35 cm long, and thread through eyelet row.

Diagram

= off-white
= navy blue



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 4-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (3)

Jacqueline 24.10.2013 - 11:41:

Thanks, all so clear now!

Jacqueline 24.10.2013 - 11:13:

Thanks I've found that now and understand the pattern but I am knitting the second size and have 58 stitches on my needle and I believe if I'm correct the pattern is worked over 8 stitches so in total 56 for each round.

DROPS Design 24.10.2013 kl. 11:36:

Dear Jacqueline, you will work 1 edge st each side and repeat the diag 7 times, so that 7x8 sts= 56 + 1 edge st each side = 58 sts. Happy knitting!

Jacqueline 23.10.2013 - 21:30:

Having a problem finishing the sleeves. What does it mean by M.1?

DROPS Design 24.10.2013 kl. 09:35:

Dear Jacqueline, M1 is the diagram for the coloured triangles - you will find it at the very bottom of the page below sleeve in chart for sweater. Happy knitting!

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