DROPS Baby / 4 / 18

Colourful Dreams by DROPS Design

DROPS jacket, trousers, hat, mittens, booties and scarf in garter st in “BabyMerino". Blanket in “Karisma”.

Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 years)

Materials: DROPS Baby Merino, from Garnstudio
200-200-250 (300-350) g colour no 25, lavender
150-150-200 (200-250) g colour no 32, turquoise
50-50-50 (50-50) g colour no 10, light turquoise
50-50-50 (50-50) g colour no 14, purple

DROPS circular needle and double pointed needles size 2 mm and 2.5 mm
DROPS crochet hook size 2.5 mm
DROPS double pointed needle size 2.5 mm (Hat - Ribbon)
DROPS wooden button, 5 pcs

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 43.30£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JACKET:
Knitting tension: 26 sts x 52 rows on needles size 2.5 mm in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows.
Buttonhole: Make buttonholes on right front band when piece measures: 1-1-1 (1-1) cm, 6.5-7-8 (9-9.5) cm, 11.5-12.5-14.5 (16.5-18) cm, 16.5-18-21 (24-26.5) cm and 22-24-28 (32-35) cm. 1 buttonhole = cast off 3rd, 4th and 5th st from edge on right front band and cast on 3 new sts on return row.

Front and back piece: Knitted back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 144-156-180 (204-216) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with lavender and knit garter st – the 6 sts towards mid front each side = front band. After 1 cm make buttonhole on right front band (see above). Remember the knitting tension. When piece measures 17-18-21 (24-24) cm knit next row as follows from the RS: 37-40-46 (52-55) sts = front piece, cast off 4 sts for armhole, 62-68-80 (92-98) sts = back piece, cast off 4 sts for armhole, 37-40-46 (52-55) sts = front piece. Now complete front and back pieces separately.

Front piece: = 37-40-46 (52-55) sts. Dec to shape the armhole on every other row as follows: 2 sts 1-1-2 (2-2) times, 1 st 2-1-1 (2-1) times = 33-37-41 (46-50) sts. When piece measures 23-25-29 (33-36) cm dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 10-12-13 (16-19) sts 1 time, 2 sts 4 times and 1 st 2 times. Cast off when piece measures 27-29-33 (37-40) cm.

Back piece: = 62-68-80 (92-98) sts. Dec for armhole as described for front piece = 54-62-70 (80-88) sts. When piece measures 25-27-32 (35-38) cm cast off the middle 24-28-30 (36-42) sts for neck. Dec to shape the neckline on next row: 2 sts 1 time. Cast off when piece measures 27-29-33 (37-40) cm.

Sleeve: Knitted back and forth on pointed needles. Cast on 42-42-44 (46-46) sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on pointed needles size 2.5 mm with lavender and knit garter st. When piece measures 6 cm inc 1 st each side inside the edge st a total of 6-9-10 (12-20) times as follows:
Size 3 months: on every 7th and 8th row alternately
Size 6/9 months + 2 years: on every 6th and 7th row alternately
Size 12/18 months: on every 7th round
Size 3/4 years: on every 4th and 5th row alternately
= 54-60-64 (70-86) sts. When piece measures 17-20-22 (24-27) cm dec to shape the sleeve cap each side on every other row: 2 sts 8 times. Cast off when sleeve measures 20-23-25 (27-30) cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Around neck pick up approx 80-100 sts on needle size 2.5 mm with lavender and knit 6 rows garter sts, cast off. Sew sleeve and side seams, set in sleeves and sew on buttons.

TROUSERS:
Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 – 3/4) years
DROPS pointed needle size 2.5 mm

Knitting tension: 26 sts x 52 rows on needles size 2.5 mm in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
Garter st. back and forth on needle: Knit all rows.

Right leg: Cast on 64-70-72 (74-78) sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needle size 2.5 mm with turquoise and knit garter st. When piece measures 8 cm inc 1 st a total of 7-4-8 (11-12) times each side inside the edge sts (= inside of leg) on every 2-4-2 (2-2) cm = 78-78-88 (96-100) sts. When piece measures 22-24-27 (31-34) cm cast off 4 sts each side = 70-70-80 (88-94) sts. Put piece aside and knit the other leg.

Left leg: knit as right leg.

Trousers: Put both legs on the same needle = 140-140-160 (176-188) sts. Insert a MT mid front and knit back and forth on needle from mid back. Inc 1 st each side for seam mid back. Now inc each side inside the edge st = mid back, and dec on both sides of the middle 2 sts mid front on every 4th row as follows: 1 st a total of 7-7-7 (7-4) times mid back (each side) and 1 st 4-2-9 (12-15) times mid front. Dec before MT: K2 tog, dec after MT: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso, = 146-150-156 (166-166) sts. When piece measures 42-46-51 (56-60) cm dec 26-26-26 (30-30) sts evenly on row = 120-124-130 (136-136) sts and knit 6 rows garter st and then 3 cm stocking st (=folding edge), cast off.
Assembly: Sew tog leg seams and mid back. Fold edge double towards WS and fasten. Insert a string. Fold edges at bottom of legs double towards RS, approx 4 cm.

MITTENS:
Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 -3/4 years)
Hand length: 9-10-11 (12-12) cm.
DROPS double pointed needles size 2 mm and 2.5 mm

Knitting tension: 26 sts x 52 rows on needles size 2.5 mm in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
Rib: *K2, P2*, repeat from *-*.
Garter st in the round: K 1 round, P 1 round.

Cast on 44-48-48 (52-52) sts on double pointed needles size 2 mm with light turquoise and knit 6 cm Rib. Change to needle size 2.5 mm and turquoise and continue in garter st, at the same time dec 8-6-6 (8-8) sts evenly on first round = 36-42-42 (44-44) sts. When piece measures 12-12-13 (14-14) cm insert a MT each side and now dec 1 st on both sides of each MT a total of 7-8-8 (8-8) times as follows:
Size 3 months: on every other row
Size 6/9 + 12/18 months + 2 and 3/4 years: on every other and every 3rd round alternately
= 8-10-10 (12-12) sts left. Cut thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten.


HAT:
Size: 3 – 6 (12 months – 2 years)
DROPS pointed needles size 2.5 mm

Knitting tension: 26 sts x 52 rows on needles size 2.5 mm in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
Garter st, back and forth on needle: Knit all rows.

Cast on 33-38 (42-46) sts on needle size 2.5 mm with turquoise and knit garter st, at the same time inc 1 st at right side and dec 1 st at left side as follows, first row = RS: K2, 1 yo (= 1 inc), continue until 4 sts left on needle, K2 tog, K2.
Next row = WS: garter st up till yo, P yo into back of st, K2.
Repeat these 2 rows until piece measures 5.5-6 (6.5-7) cm.
Now dec 1 st at right side and inc 1 st at left side as follows, next row RS: K1, slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso, knit until 2 sts left on needle, 1 yo, K2.
Next row = WS: K2, K 1 into back of yo, complete row in garter st. Repeat these 2 rows for another 5.5-6 (6.5-7) cm.
Change to purple and continue to inc 1 st at right side on every 4th row and dec 1 st at left side on every other row until piece measures 15.5-17 (17.5-18) cm = middle of hat. Insert a MT each side. Continue as described above but in reverse order. Continue in purple and change to light turquoise instead of turquoise. Cast off when piece measures 31-34 (35-36) cm.
Assembly: Front = the section with 3 whole points, back = section with 2 whole points and 2 half points. Now sew tog hat as follows: Sew tog at back by sewing tog the first half point and the first half of the first whole point. Sew tog the other half of the first whole point and the first half of the second whole point. Sew tog the other half of the second whole point with the last half point. Now sew tog hat mid back.
Ribbon: Cast on 4 sts on a double pointed needle size 2.5 mm with turquoise and knit these 4 sts in garter st, *do not turn the piece, but carry the thread behind the 4 sts and knit them again from RS*, repeat from *-* until ribbon measures 15 -15 (16-17) cm. Knit another ribbon in light turquoise. Fasten ribbons on WS at the point each side.

SCARF:
Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 -3/4 years)
DROPS pointed needles size 2 mm and 2.5 mm

Knitting tension: 26 sts x 52 rows on needles size 2.5 mm in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
Rib: *K2, P2*, repeat from *-*.
Garter st, back and forth on needle: Knit all rows.

Cast on 4 sts on needle size 2.5 mm with purple and knit garter st, at the same time inc each side as follows:
Right side: Knit 2 sts in 1 st,
left side: Knit 2 sts in the last but 1 st.
Inc 2 sts on every other row a total of 10-10-11 (12-12) times = 24-24-26 (28-28) sts.
Knit 10-10-14 (20-20) rows of garter st on all sts. Now dec 2 sts on every other row a total of 6-6-7 (8-8) times by K tog the first 2 and the last 2 sts on row = 12-12-12 (12-12) sts.
Change to needle size 2 mm and knit 4 cm Rib and then put sts on cable needle. Pick up 12-12-12 (12-12) sts in the last row of garter st and knit 4 cm Rib. Now knit tog sts on cable needle with sts on needle on needle size 2.5 mm by K tog the first st from cable needle with first st on needle, etc = 12-12-12 (12-12) sts on needle size 2.5 mm. Measure piece from here. Continue in garter st, at the same time inc evenly on row to 19-21-24 (28-31) sts.
When piece measures 35-37-39 (41-42) cm dec evenly on row to 12-12-12- (12-12) sts. Change to needle size 2 mm and knit 4 cm Rib. Change back to needle size 2.5 mm and complete piece in garter st. Inc on every other row as described above (right and left side) until there are 24-24-26 (28-28) sts on needle, knit 10-10-14 (20-20) rows garter on all sts. Now dec as described above until 4 sts left on needle. Cast off.


BOOTIES:
Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 -3/4 years)
Foot length: 10-11-12 (14-15) cm
DROPS pointed needles size 2 mm and 2.5 mm
DROPS crochet hook size 2.5 mm

Knitting tension: 26 sts x 52 rows on needles size 2.5 mm in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
Rib: *K2, P2*, repeat from *-*.
Garter st, back and forth on needle: Knit all rows.

Cast on 46-50-50 (54-54) sts on needle size 2 mm with light turquoise and knit 6-7-7 (8-8) cm Rib back and forth on needle. Knit 1 row stocking st and change to needle size 2.5 mm, at the same time dec 10-14-8 (12-8) sts evenly = 36-36-42 (42-46) sts. Knit next row as follows from RS: *K2 tog, 1 yo*, repeat from *-*.
Knit 1 row stocking st. Put 12-12-14 (12-14) sts on a thread each side and knit 6-7-9 (10-10) cm garter st on the middle 12-12-14 (18-18) sts.
Put sts from threads back on needle and pick up 16-18-23 (26-26) sts on each side of the middle piece = 68-72-88 (94-98) sts. Knit 3-4-4 (5-5) cm garter st on all sts, at the same time after 2-2.5-2.5 (3-3) cm dec on every other row as follows: 1 st at the beg and 1 st at the end of row and K2 tog on both sides of the middle 2 sts for another 3-4-4 (5-5) cm. Cast off and sew seam under foot and along the Rib. Crochet a chain on crochet hook size 2.5 mm, approx 30-35 cm long, and thread through eyelet row.



BLANKET:

Material: DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
350 g colour 01, off-white

Material: DROPS circular needle size 3.5 mm

Knitting tension: 21 stitches on needles size 3.5 mm = width 10 cm.

Garter stitch (back and forth): Knit all rows. 1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

Pattern: See diagrams A.1 to A.4.
NOTE! If a diagram is finished from right side, start first row on next diagram from wrong side. Pay extra attention that the diagrams show the pattern seen from right side.

Blanket:
To fit in all stitches work blanket back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 128 stitches with Karisma on circular needle size 3,5 mm.

Work 3 ridges in garter stitch over all stitches.
Continue with 4 stitches in garter stitch on each side and PATTERN – read explanation above, on the middle 120 stitches as follows:
Work A.3 for approx. 8 cm - adjust after a whole repeat or half a repeat.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Then work A.4 one time (= 5 rows)
Work A.1 for approx. 11 cm – adjust after a whole repeat or half a repeat.
Then work A.4 one time (= 5 rows)
Work A.2 for approx. 8 cm.
Then work A.4 one time (= 5 rows)
Work A.3 for approx. 16 cm - adjust after a whole repeat or half a repeat.
Then work A.4 one time (= 5 rows)
Work A.1 for approx. 11 cm – adjust after a whole repeat or half a repeat.
Then work A.4 one time (= 5 rows)
Work A.2 for approx. 8 cm.
Then work A.4 one time (= 5 rows)
Work A.3 for approx. 8 cm - adjust after a whole repeat or half a repeat.
Then work 3 ridges in garter stitch over all stitches on row. Piece now measures approx. 82 cm – cast off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 04.04.2006
Hat:
Now dec 1 st at right side and inc 1 st at left side as follows, next row RS: K1, slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso, knit until 2 sts left on needle, 1 yo, K2 (not K2 tog)
Updated online: 03.02.2009
Front piece: = 37-40-46 (52-55) sts. Dec to shape the armhole on every other row as follows: 2 sts 1-1-2 (2-2) times, 1 st 2-1-1 (2-1) times = 33-37-41 (46-50) sts.
Updated online: 20.04.2018
Updated diagrams, and clarifications in the blanket instructions
Updated online: 08.10.2020
Correction: Diagrams have been renamed from M to A. Pattern text for blanket has also been updated to make it easier to read.

Diagram

= K
= P



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 4-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (24)

Corinna 0 13.07.2020 - 21:58:

Ich stricke die Jacke mit anderer Wolle und halte mich an die angegebenen Maße, alles ist beschriftet, aber nicht die untere Breite des Ärmels. Bitte nennen Sie mir die untere Breite. Mit freundlichen Grüßen Corinna Osterloh

DROPS Design 14.07.2020 kl. 09:09:

Liebe Corinna 0, alle Maßen können Sie mit der Maschenprobe kalkulieren, dh mit 26 M = 10 cm, sind die 42-44-46 M = ca 16-17-17.6 cm. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Olga 01.10.2019 - 18:05:

En el pantalón, después de juntar las piernas, y colocar el marcador, no entiendo las disminuciones que se hacen en la parte delantera y trasera, creo que hay algo repetido o mal copiado porque , la verdad esta un poco enredada la explicación y soy experta en entenderos y muy agradecida por como siempre lo explicais. Espero una aclaración, muchas gracias.

DROPS Design 14.10.2019 kl. 21:21:

Hola Olga. Son patrones de antiguas colecciones y tienen más abreviaturas. Las disminuciones en la parte trasera del pantalón se trabajan cada 4 º vuelta 1 punto a cada lado del marcapuntos un total de de 7-7-7 (7-4) veces y en la parte delantera - cada 4 º vuelta 1 punto a cada lado del pantalón 4-2-9 (12-15) veces. Después se explica como se trabajan las disminuciones (esta parte en los patrones nuevos esta en el apartado EXPLICACIONES PARA REALIZAR LA LABOR).

Annica 25.01.2019 - 14:04:

Hej! Hur gör man minskningen på vantarna? Och hur stickar man tummen?

DROPS Design 30.01.2019 kl. 09:05:

Hej Annica, just de här vantarna har ingen tumme och är bra till de allra minsta. Vi har många andra vantar om du vill ha tumme. Lycka till

Hana 16.04.2018 - 19:00:

The question is regarding the scarf "Left side: Knit 2 sts in the last but 1 st." Please explain

DROPS Design 17.04.2018 kl. 09:05:

Dear Hana, on left side, knit until 2 sts remain on row, knit 2 sts in next st (= knit into front and back loop) and knit the last st. Happy knitting!

Liv 16.11.2015 - 05:15:

Hei hei :) Jeg skjønner ikke hvordan jeg skal felle av til armhull? 2m x 1, 1m x 2... Kan dere hjelpe videre her? Ser at oppskriften skal forbedres. Er dere kommet noe videre med dette? Takk for hjelpen;)

DROPS Design 17.11.2015 kl. 10:28:

Hej. Du maskar av olika beroende på vilken storlek du stickar. Stickar du t.ex. den minsta storleken så maskar du av 2m x 1 (alltså 2 m en gång) och 1m x 2 (alltså 1 m två gånger). Lycka till!

Emma 29.09.2015 - 15:10:

Hej :) Jeg vil gerne bare strikke jakken str. 12 - 18 mdr. Hvor meget garn skal jeg beregne? Mvh Emma

DROPS Design 01.10.2015 kl. 16:54:

Hej Emma, Jakken er strikket i den farve som står mest af under garnforbruget, så 200 g bør være nok. God fornøjelse!

Regine 01.09.2015 - 12:08:

Liebe Strickprofis, können Sie mir bitte nochmals ausführlich schildern, wie man bei der Jacke das Vorder- und Rückenteil erstellt? V.a. wie das Abketten gegen das Armloch erfolgen soll. Die Anleitung ist sehr knapp gehalten, ich kann dem leider nicht folgen. Vielen Dank! Regine

DROPS Design 08.09.2015 kl. 11:00:

Liebe Regine, die Anleitung ist schon recht alt und wird in Kürze noch einmal sprachlich überarbeitet, dann wird es hoffentlich verständlicher.

Juliane 22.03.2015 - 15:04:

Ich verstehe die Zunahmen am Ärmel nicht. Abwechselnd in der 4. und 5. Reihe. Muss ich in der 4. Reihe zunehmen und dann 4 Reihen Stricken, damit ich in der 5. Reihe erneut zunehme? Oder erfolgen die Zunahmen direkt hintereinander in der 4. und 5. Reihe. ?? Danke für die Hilfe!,

DROPS Design 23.03.2015 kl. 11:19:

Die erste Variante stimmt. Sie nehmen in der 4. R zu, dann nehmen Sie in der darauf folgenden 5. R zu (also mit 4 Zwischenreihen), dann wieder in der darauf folgenden 4. R (also mit 3 Zwischenreihen) usw. Also nicht direkt hintereinander in der 4. und 5. R.

Juliane 22.03.2015 - 15:04:

Ich verstehe die Zunahmen am Ärmel nicht. Abwechselnd in der 4. und 5. Reihe. Muss ich in der 4. Reihe zunehmen und dann 4 Reihen Stricken, damit ich in der 5. Reihe erneut zunehme? Oder erfolgen die Zunahmen direkt hintereinander in der 4. und 5. Reihe. ?? Danke für die Hilfe!,

DROPS Design 23.03.2015 kl. 11:19:

Antwort siehe oben! :-)

Juliane 22.03.2015 - 14:20:

Ich verstehe die Zunahmen am Ärmel nicht. Abwechselnd in der 4. und 5. Reihe. Muss ich in der 4. Reihe zunehmen und dann 4 Reihen Stricken, damit ich in der 5. Reihe erneut zunehme? Oder erfolgen die Zunahmen direkt hintereinander in der 4. und 5. Reihe. ?? Danke für die Hilfe!,

DROPS Design 23.03.2015 kl. 11:20:

Antwort siehe oben! :-)

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