DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.95$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 4-9
Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 years)

Materials: DROPS Alpaca, from Garnstudio
The whole set:
Girl: 100-150-150 (200-200) g color no 3800 old pink
100-100-150 (150-150) g color no 2110 wheat
50-50-50 (100-100) g color no 3620 red
50-50-50 (100-100) g color no 3720 medium pink
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 100 off-white

Boy: 100-150-150 (200-200) g color no 5575 navy blue
100-100-150 (150-150) g color no 7120 light grayish green
50-50-50 (100-100) g color no 6360 blue
50-50-50 (100-100) g color no 3800 old pink
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 100 off-white

Jacket only:
Girl: 50-50-100 (100-100) g color no 2110 wheat
50-50-50 (100-100) g color no 3620 red
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 3720 medium pink
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 100 off-white

Boy: 50-50-100 (100-100) g color no 7120 light grayish green
50-50-50 (100-100) g color no 6360 blue
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 3800 old pink
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 100 off-white

DROPS circular needle and double pointed needles size 2 mm and 2.5 mm / US 0 and 1.5

DROPS button, 5 pcs

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.95$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
JACKET:
Knitting gauge: 26 sts x 35 rows on needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 in stockinette sts = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows.

Garter st, on circular needle: K 1 round, P 1 round.

Buttonhole: Make buttonholes on blue front edge when piece measures 1-1-1 (1-1) cm , 6-7-8 (9-9) cm , 11-12-14 (17-17) cm , 16-18-21 (25-26) cm and 22-24-28 (31-34) cm . 1 buttonhole = bind off st 3 and 4 from edge and cast on 2 new sts on return row.

Triangle pattern: See diagram. The diagram shows the pattern from the right side.


Front and back piece:
Knitted back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Beg by knitting a row of triangles as follows: Cast on 8 sts on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with navy blue and knit garter st back and forth on needle, at the same time dec on every other row on the left side: 1 st 7 times = 1 st left on needle. Change to off-white and inc 7 sts on next row = 8 sts on needle, continue in garter st and dec as described for the first triangle (1 triangle = approx 3.5 cm ).
Continue like this and change color for each triangle until there are 14-16-18 (20-22) triangles (piece measures approx 50-56-62 (70-76) cm ).
Now pick up 132-144-162 (180-198) sts on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 in the outermost sts in the row of triangles as follows: 66-72-81 (90-99) sts in blue and 66-72-81 (90-99) sts in light grayish green.
Work next row from WS as follows: Cast on 7 sts in light grayish green work 66-72-81 (90-99) stockinette st in light grayish green, change to blue and work remaining sts in blue, cast on 7 sts in blue = 146-158-176 (194-212) sts.
Measure piece from here.
Continue in these colors (change color mid back) and knit the 7 sts each side (front edges) in garter st – remember buttonholes on blue front edge, see explanation above. When piece measures 17-18-21 (24-24) cm divide piece for front and back pieces: 40-43-48 (52-57) sts = front piece, 66-72-80 (90-98) sts = back piece, 40-43-48 (52-57) sts = front piece, and complete each piece separately.

Front piece: 40-43-48 (52-57) sts.
When piece measures 23-25-29 (32-35) cm bind off towards neckline on every other row as follows: 12-13-15 (16-20) sts 1 time, 3 sts 2 times, 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 1 time.
Bind off remaining sts when piece measures 27-29-33 (37-40) cm / 10 5/8''-11 3/8''-13'' (14½''-15¾'').

Back piece: = 66-72-80 (90-98) sts.
When piece measures 25-27-31 (35-38) cm bind off the middle 20-22-24 (28-34) sts for neck and bind off to shape the neckline on every other row as follows: 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 1 time. Bind off remaining sts when piece measures 27-29-33 (37-40) cm / 10 5/8''-11 3/8''-13'' (14½''-15¾'').

Right sleeve:
Cast on 40-40-42 (44-44) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with old pink and knit 4 rounds garter st. Continue in stockinette st.
When piece measures 3cm inc 2 sts mid under arm a total of 6-9-10 (12-20) times as follows:
Size 3 months: on every 5th round
Size 6/9 months + 12/18 months + 2 years: on every 4th round
Size 3/4 years: on every 3rd round
= 52-58-62 (68-84) sts.
When piece measures 12-15-16 (18-22) cm work M.1, knit 1 round in light grayish green and bind off remaining sts in light grayish green.

Left sleeve: Cast on and knit as right sleeve, but reverse the colors.

Assembly:
Sew shoulder seams.

Collar: Triangles, see M.1. Cast on 8 sts on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with navy blue and knit a row of triangles as explained under jacket until there are 10-10-11 (12-13) triangles on row.
Now pick up 80-85-90 (95-100) sts on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with navy blue in the outermost sts in the row of triangles. Put piece aside.
Pick up 80-85-90 (95-100) sts round the neck on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 navy blue (do not pick up on front edges) and knit tog sts from collar and sts from body piece as follows: knit tog first st from collar with first st from body piece, etc.
Change to needle size 2 mm, pick up 10 sts on each front edge and knit 4 rows garter st on all sts. Bind off.
Set in sleeves and sew on buttons.

PANTS:
DROPS circular needle size 2 mm and 2.5 mm / US 0 and 1.5

Knitting gauge: 26 sts x 35 rows on needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 in stockinette sts = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.

Pattern: *M.1, then 6-6-7 (7-8) cm blue, M.1, 6-6-7 (7-8) cm old pink, M.1, 6-6-7 (7-8) cm light grayish green*. Repeat from *-*. See diagram, 1 diagram = a pattern repeat and diagram is seen from the RS.


Left leg:
Cast on 80-88-88 (96-96) sts on circular needle size 2 mm with light grayish green and knit 8 cm / 3'' Rib (to be folded double afterwards, so measure as 4 cm / 1½'').
Change to circular needle 2.5 mm and continue in pattern and stockinette st, at the same time inc on inside leg on every 2-3-3 (4-5) cm : 2 sts 4 times = 88-96-96 (104-104) sts. Remember the knitting gauge.
When piece measures 17-18-20 (25-28) cm divide piece at inside leg (= split) and complete piece back and forth on needle. Inc 1 st each side for seam = 90-98-98 (106-106) sts. When piece measures 18-20-23 (27-30) cm bind off 5-7-3 (5-5) sts each side = 80-84-92 (96-96) sts. Put piece aside and knit the other leg.

Right leg: knit as left leg.

Pants: Put left and right leg in on the same circular needle = 160-168-184 (192-192) sts. Knit 3 rounds and now inc mid back on both sides of the middle 2 sts on every other round: 1 st 8 times, at the same time dec mid front on every other round on both sides of the middle 2 sts: 1 st 8 times = 160-168-184 (192-192) sts.
When piece measures 35-39-44 (49-53) cm dec 24-28-34 (32-32) sts evenly distributed on round = 136-140-150 (160-160) sts.
Continue in the same stripe color and knit 3 cm / 1'' stockinette st, P 1 round = folding edge, 3 cm / 1'' stockinette st and bind off. Turn edge double towards WS and fasten.
Sew tog split on inside of legs and sew tog the opening between legs from mid front to mid back.


SOCKS:
Size: 3 – 6/9 – 9/12 months (2 -3/4 years)
Foot length: 10-11-12 (14-15) cm .

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 2 mm and 2.5 mm/ US 0 and 1.5
DROPS crochet hook size 2.5 mm / C

Knitting gauge: 26 sts x 52 rows on needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 in garter st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.

Garter st, back and forth on needle: Knit all rows.

Cast on 46-50-50 (54-54) sts on needle size 2 mm/ US 0 with navy blue and work 6-7-7 (8-8) cm Rib back and forth on needle.
Knit 1 row stockinette st and change to needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5, at the same time dec 10-14-8 (12-8) sts = 36-36-42 (42-46) sts.
Work next row as follows from RS: *K2 tog, 1 yo*, repeat from *-*.
Work 1 row stockinette st. Put 12-12-14 (12-14) sts on a holder each side and knit 6-7-9 (10-10) cm garter st on the middle 12-12-14 (18-18) sts.
Put sts from holders back on needle and pick up 16-18-23 (26-26) sts on each side of the middle piece = 68-72-88 (94-98) sts.
Knit 3-4-4 (5-5) cm garter st on all sts, at the same time after 2-2.5-2.5 (3-3) cm dec on every other row as follows: 1 st at the beg and 1 st at the end of row and K2 tog on both sides of the middle 2 sts for another 3-4-4 (5-5) cm .
Bind off and sew seam under foot and along the Rib – sew the upper part of the Rib from WS and fold it double.
Crochet a chain on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5, approx 30-35 cm long, and thread through eyelet row.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = off-white
symbols = navy blue
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (5)

country flag Lilli Kojo wrote:

Heippa!\r\nJakun ohjeesta puuttuue maininta että aloitus kolmioiden jälkeen on syytä neuloa 2 aina oikein harjannetta (niinkuin kuvassa) reunan rullaantumisen estämiseksi!\r\nJakku on käyttökelvoton jos alareuna rullaantuu! Kokemusta on!

18.01.2024 - 11:53

country flag Anita Kildahl wrote:

Hei! Jeg lurer på hvor alle str på denne fine drakten står henne? Der står kun fra 3 mnd-4år. Men greit å vite hvor mange masker man skal legge opp til ? Og vilke str man skal strikke. Mvh Anita Kildahl

29.01.2021 - 21:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anita. Nu finns storlekarna längst upp på oppskriften. Vill du t.ex göra storlek 12/18 mnd så stickar du efter 3. talet. Mvh DROPS Design

03.02.2021 - 10:22

country flag Jacqueline wrote:

Thanks, all so clear now!

24.10.2013 - 11:41

country flag Jacqueline wrote:

Thanks I've found that now and understand the pattern but I am knitting the second size and have 58 stitches on my needle and I believe if I'm correct the pattern is worked over 8 stitches so in total 56 for each round.

24.10.2013 - 11:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jacqueline, you will work 1 edge st each side and repeat the diag 7 times, so that 7x8 sts= 56 + 1 edge st each side = 58 sts. Happy knitting!

24.10.2013 - 11:36

country flag Jacqueline wrote:

Having a problem finishing the sleeves. What does it mean by M.1?

23.10.2013 - 21:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jacqueline, M1 is the diagram for the coloured triangles - you will find it at the very bottom of the page below sleeve in chart for sweater. Happy knitting!

24.10.2013 - 09:35