DROPS Baby / 5 / 11

DROPS Baby 5-11 by DROPS Design

Cardigan, trousers, hat / balaclava, mittens and socks in Alpaca.

Sizes: 0/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6 years)

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio

If the entire set is knit you will need:
350-350-400 (400-500-500) g Natural
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g Light Blue
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g Blue
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g Dark Blue
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g Mint
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g Coral

If the cardigan is knit you will need:
150-1150-150 (200-200-200) g Natural
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g Light Blue
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g Blue
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g Dark Blue
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g Mint
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g Coral

If the trousers are knit you will need:
150-150-150 (200-250-250) g Natural

If the socks and mittens are knit you will need:
100-100-100 (100-100-150) g Light Blue

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CARDIGAN

Finished Measurements: 52-56-62 (74-76-82) cm

5-6 DROPS wooden buttons (button No. 503).

DROPS 2 mm and 2.5 mm circular needles and double pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 26 sts and 35 rows on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm

Pattern: See chart. One chart equals one repeat of the pattern. The pattern is seen from the right side and is knit entirely in stockinette stitch.

Rib in Stripes: 1 row natural, 2 rows dark blue, 2 rows natural, 2 rows mint, 2 rows natural, 2 rows light blue and then natural to finished dimensions.

Garter Stitch, when knitting flat: Knit all sts all rows.
Garter Stitch, when knitting in the round: *Rnd 1, knit. Rnd 2, purl. Repeat from * - *.

Rib: * knit 1, purl 1*. Repeat from *-*.

BODY
Cast on 137-149-161 (191-203-215) sts on smaller circular needles with natural and knit rib in stripes (see instructions above) for 3-3-3 (4-4-4) cm . Change to larger needles and knit in pattern with 1 edge st on each side (center front) which is not worked in the pattern. When the work measures 20-21-24 (28-29-31) cm , divide it into front and back as follows: 35-38-41 (48-51-54) sts for the front, 67-73-79 (95-101-107) sts for the back, 35-38-41 (48-51-54) sts for the front. Knit the rest of each part separately from this point.

Front: 35-38-41 (48-51-54) sts. When the work measures 26-28-31 (36-40-43) cm , bind off at the neck edge every other row: 8-10-11 (11-14-15) sts 1 time, 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 1 time. Bind off all sts when the work measures 30-32-36 (41-45-48) cm .

Back: 67-73-79 (95-101-107) sts. When the work measures 28-30-34 (39-43-46) cm , bind off the center 19-23-25 (27-33-35) sts for the neck. Bind off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 1 time. Bind off all sts when the work measures 30-32-36 (41-45-48) cm .

Sleeves: Cast on 58-58-64 (64-70-74) sts on smaller double pointed needles with natural. Join, being careful not to twist the sts. Place a marker at the join and knit rib in stripes (see instructions above) then continue with natural and rib for 3-3-3 (4-4-4) cm . Change to larger double pointed needles and knit pattern. Dec 14-12-16 (12-18-16) sts evenly distributed on the 1st row. 44-46-48 (52-52-58) sts. At the same time, after the rib, inc 1 st on each side of the marker 4-6-7 (8-16-15) times:
Sizes 1/3 + 6/9 months: every 9th row.
Size 12/18 months: alternately every 8th and 9th row
Size 2 years: alternately every 6th and 7th row.
Size 3/4 years: every 4th row.
Size 5/6 years: alternately every 5th and 6th row.
= 52-58-62 (68-84-88) sts. Bind off all sts when the work measures 15-20-22 (22-26-30) cm .

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Pick up approx. 80-100 sts along the left front on smaller circular needles with natural and knit rib for 2-2.5 cm . Bind off. Repeat along the right front, but after 1 cm make 5-5-5 (6-6-6) buttonholes evenly distributed on the row (1 buttonhole = bind off 3 sts and cast on 3 new sts over the bound-off sts on the next row). Place the top buttonhole 2 sts from the top edge and the lowest buttonhole 1 cm from the bottom edge.
Pick up approx. 90-100 sts around the neck on smaller circular needles with natural and knit rib for 4-4-5 (5-6-6) cm . Bind off, and fold the edge over against the wrong side and sew. Sew on the sleeves and buttons.
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TROUSERS

Trouser-length: 38-42-47 (52-58-64) cm
Leg-length: 18-22-25 (27-35-41) cm

DROPS 2.5 mm and 3 mm circular needles and double pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 24 sts and 64 rows on larger needles in pattern = 10 x 10 cm

Pattern: Pattern is knit back and forth on the needles and is divisible by 2 + 3 sts.
Row 1 (right side): K 1, * yo, sl 1, P 1*. Repeat from * - * until 2 sts remain, yo, sl 1, K 1
Row 2 (wrong side): K 1, * purl the slipped st and the yarn over tog, K 1 *. Repeat from * - * until 3 sts remain. P the slipped st and the yarn over tog, K 1.
Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows throughout.

Rib: * knit 1, purl 1*. Repeat from *-*.

Left leg: Cast on 58-64-66 (70-70-70) sts on smaller circular needles and knit in rib for 10-10-10 (12-12-12) cm . The rib will be folded over later and should therefore be measured as 5-5-5 (6-6-6) cm . Change to larger circular needles, inc 1 st at beg of row and knit pattern with 1 edge st on each side back and forth on the needle. Then inc 1 st within the edge stitch on each side: 10-10-10 (12-12-12) times:
Size 0/3 months: every 1 cm .
Sizes 6/9 + 12/18 +2 years: alternately every and every other 1 cm .
Size 3/4 years: every 2nd cm .
Size 5/6 years: alternately every 2nd and 3rd cm .
= 79-85-87 (95-95-95) sts. When the work measures 18-22-25 (27-35-41) cm , bind off 6-8-8 (10-8-8) sts on each side. 67-69-71 (75-79-79) sts. Put the work aside.

Right leg: Knit like the left.

Trouser: Put the right and left leg together on the same larger sized circular needles, with a marker at the join (center front). 134-138-142 (150-158-158) sts. Knit in pattern with 1 edge st on each side back and forth on the needle -- the edges are the center back. Inc 1 st at one side. 135-139-143 (151-159-159) sts. Knit 3 rows in pattern and then inc 1 st within the edge sts on each side (center back): 8 times every 4th row and at the same time dec 1 st the center front marker (1 st in from the marker): 8 times every 4th row. 135-139-143 (151-159-159) sts. When the work measures 35-39-44 (49-55-61) cm , change to smaller circular needles and decrease 25-23-23 (27-35-35) sts evenly distributed on the row. 110-116-120 (124-124-124) sts.
Knit waistband as follows: knit 3 cm in stockinette st, purl 1 row, knit 3 cm in stockinette st for border. Bind off and fold the edge over against the wrong side and sew. The trouser measures 38-42-47 (52-58-64) cm in its entire length. Sew together the split on the inside of each leg up to the bound-off sts and then sew together the opening between the legs from the center front to the center back on the trouser. Sew the seam at the center back within 1 edge st. Sew in the trouser st at the edge.
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MITTENS WITH AND WITHOUT THUMB

Hand length of the mitten: 9-10-11 (12-12) cm
.

DROPS 2.5 mm and 3 mm double pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 24 sts and 64 rows on larger needles in pattern = 10 x 10 cm

Pattern: Pattern is knit back and forth on the needles and is divisible by 2 + 3 sts.
Row 1 (right side): K 1, * yo, sl 1, P 1*. Repeat from * - * until 2 sts remain, yo, sl 1, K 1
Row 2 (wrong side): K 1, * purl the slipped st and the yarn over tog, K 1 *. Repeat from * - * until 3 sts remain. P the slipped st and the yarn over tog, K 1.
Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows throughout.

Rib: * knit 1, purl 1 *. Repeat from * - *.

Mitten: Knit the mittens without thumbs for the two smallest sizes. Cast on 44-48-48 (52-52-56) sts on smaller double pointed needles with light blue. Join, being careful not to twist the sts. Place a marker at the join and knit rib for 6 cm or to desired length. Change to larger needles and knit pattern back and forth on the needle and at the same time decrease 9-9-9 (11-11-13) sts evenly distributed on the 1st row. 35-39-39 (41-41-43) sts.
When the hand (measured after the rib) measures x - x -3 (3-3-3.5) cm (do not knit thumb on the 2 smallest sizes) put 6 sts on a holder for thumb. Cast on 6 sts over the sts on the holder on the next row. When the work measures 14.5-15.5-16.5 (17.5-17.5-18.5) cm , knit 2 rows of rib. Pull the strand through the sts, pull together and sew.

Thumb: Pick up 6 sts in new sts at the thumb hole in rib. Inc 1 st on each side in the transition from the sts on the holder and the picked-up sts. 14 sts. Join and knit approximately 3 (3.5-4-4.5) cm thumb in rib. Knit 2 sts together across the row every other row twice and then pull the strand through the remaining sts and sew.
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HAT

Circumference of the hat: 41-41-44 (46-48-48) cm .

DROPS 2.5 mm and 3 mm circular needles and 3 mm straight needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 24 sts and 64 rows on larger needles in pattern = 10 x 10 cm

Pattern: Pattern as knit back and forth: see above.
Pattern as knit in the round: (must be over a multiple of 2 sts).
Round 1: * K 1, yo, sl 1*. Repeat from * - *.
Round 2: * purl the yarn over and the slipped st tog, yo, sl 1*. Repeat from * - *.
Round 3: * knit the yarn over and the slipped st tog, yo, sl 1 *. Repeat from * - *.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 throughout.

Garter Stitch, when knitting flat: Knit all sts all rows.
Garter Stitch, when knitting in the round: *Rnd 1, knit. Rnd 2, purl*. Repeat from *-*.

Rib: * knit 1, purl 1 *. Repeat from * - *.

EDITOR’S NOTE: This hat goes completely over the head and around the neck, with an opening for the face. This is a confusing design to read and there is no diagram to show you how it goes together. But it’s a great hat for children in cold climates! Just follow the instructions and it will all make sense as you go along.

Front: Cast on 35-35-41 (43-45-45) sts on larger needles and knit 2 rows in garter st. Then knit in pattern with 1 edge st on each side which is kept in garter st. When the work measures 7-8-9 (10-11-12) cm , put it aside.

Back: Knit like the front.

Hat: Put all sts on the same smaller circular needle (70-70-82 (86-90-90) sts) and work back and forth on the needles. Place a marker at the join. Increase 20-20-10 (8-6-6) sts evenly distributed on the 1st row. 90-90-92 (94-96-96) sts. Knit 3 cm in rib. Measure the work from here. Change to larger circular needles, join the work and place a marker at the join. Knit in pattern in the round on circular needles, increasing 8-8-14 (16-20-20) sts evenly distributed on the 1st row. 98-98-106 (110-110-116) sts. After 2-2-3 (3-3-3) cm , place the center front 7-7-9 (11-13-13) sts on a stitch holder and continue to knit back and forth on the needle. Dec 1 st each side at the front opening every 4th row 2 times. 87-87-93 (95-99-99) sts.

When the work measures 10-11-12 (13-14-15) cm , measured from the rib, bind off 22-22-24 (26-28-28) sts on each side (this makes the seam you see in the picture along each side of the head). Continue in pattern over the 43-43-45 (43-43-43) sts at center back for 9-10-11 (12-13-13) cm (this makes the piece for the top of the head). Bind off.

Assembly: Sew the parts together on each side of the head. Pick up approx. 120 to 148 sts (include the sts on the holder) around the face-opening on smaller circular needles and knit in rib for 4 cm . Bind off. Fold the edge over against the wrong side and sew.
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SOCKS

Foot length = approx. 10-11-12 (14-15) cm


DROPS 2.5 mm and 3 mm double pointed needles, or sizes to obtain gauge.

Gauge: 24 sts and 64 rows on larger needles in pattern = 10 x 10 cm (4" x 4")

Rib: * knit 1, purl 1 *. Repeat from * - *.

Pattern: (back and forth on needles): The pattern is divisible by 2 + 3 sts.
Row 1 (right side): K 1, * yo, sl 1, P 1*. Repeat from * - * until 2 sts remain, yo, sl 1, K 1.
Row 2 (wrong side): K 1, * K the slipped st and the yarn over tog, K 1*. Repeat from * - * until 3 sts remain, purl the slipped st and the yo tog, K 1.
Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows throughout.

SOCK
Cast on 54-56-58 (60-62) sts on smaller double pointed needles. Join, being careful not to twist the sts. Place a marker at the join and knit rib for 4-5-5 (6-6) cm . Knit 3 sts together at the center back. 52-54-56 (58-60) sts.
When the work measures 6-7.5-7.5 (9-9) cm , knit 3 sts together at the center back. 50-52-54 (56-58) sts.
Change to larger double pointed needles and knit in pattern back and forth on the needle from the center of the back and at the same time dec 7-5-7 (5-7) sts evenly distributed on the 1st row. 43-47-47 (51-51) sts. Knit 1-1-1 (2-2) cm then knit the center 11-13-13 (15-15) sts (for upper part, putting the remaining 32-34-34 (36-36) sts on a holder). After 4-5-5.5 (7-7.5) cm , pick up 10-12-14 (14-16) sts on each side of the upper part. 63-71-75 (79-83) sts (including the sts from the holder). Knit in pattern back and forth over all sts from the center back for 1.5-2-2 (3-3.5) cm . Bind off all sts except the foremost 11-13-13 (15-15) sts. Knit 9-10-11 (13-14) cm in pattern for the sole over these sts. Bind off and sew the sole to the sock.

Diagram

= natural
= dark blue
= blue
= light blue
= mint
= coral


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 5-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (2)

Iris 09.03.2013 - 11:27:

Guten Tag, ich bin eine langjährige Strickerin, aber die Anleitung für die Mütze ist derart unverständlich geschrieben, dass ich von vornehinein keine Lust habe, mich mit dem Entschlüsseln zu beschäftigen. Sie haben wunderschöne Modelle und Muster, die leider für mich unnötig kompliziert und unverständlich beschrieben werden. Sehr schade.

Sarah Fritsche 10.12.2009 - 13:11:

Der er jo ingen opskrift kun diagram?

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