DROPS Soft Tweed
50% Wool, 25% Alpaca, 25% Viscose
from 4.00 £ /50g

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DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g

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DROPS Buttons
Charred (angular) No. 537

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DROPS Needles & Hooks

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 72.20£.

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Stormy Ocean Cardigan

Knitted over-sized jacket in DROPS Soft Tweed and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked bottom up with cables, sewn in sleeves, diagonal shoulders, rolled edges and I-cord. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 254-17

#stormyoceancardigan

DROPS Design: Pattern st-048
Yarn group B + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS SOFT TWEED from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-650-700-750-800 g colour 10, denim jeans
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
175-175-200-225-250-250 g colour 28, navy blue

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 537: 7 items in all sizes.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height, with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality, on needle size 5 mm= 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows, from both the right and wrong side.
1 ridge in height = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. Choose diagram for your size. The diagrams show the pattern from the right side.

BANDS WITH I-CORD:
START OF ROW:
Work the band as follows: Slip 1 stitch purl-wise, with yarn in front, knit 1, work diagram A.1 (6 stitches).
END OF ROW:
Work the band as follows: Work until there are 8 stitches left on the row, work diagram A.1 (6 stitches), slip 1 stitch purl-wise with yarn in front, knit 1.
Work like this from both the right and wrong side.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work the buttonholes on the right band from the right side (band = 8 stitches).
ROW 1 (right side): Knit together the 4th and 5th stitch from the edge, make 1 yarn over, then work the row as before.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work the band as before, knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the piece measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm, then the other buttonholes when the piece measures:
S: 14, 22, 30, 38 and 46 cm
M: 14, 23, 31, 40 and 48 cm
L: 15, 24, 33, 42 and 51 cm
XL: 16, 24, 33, 41 and 50 cm
XXL: 16, 25, 34, 43 and 52 cm
XXXL: 16, 25, 34, 43 and 52 cm
NOTE: The last buttonhole is worked on the neck.

DECREASE TIP:
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches to be decreased over (e.g., 22 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be made (e.g., 5) = 4.4.
In this example decrease by knitting each 3rd and 4th stitch together.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread as follows:
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches) make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased).
On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The pattern uses both long and short needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary.
The piece is worked back and forth from mid-front, bottom up as far as the armholes, then divided and the front and back pieces finished separately back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round, bottom up. The pieces are sewn together. Finally stitches are knitted up around the neckline and the neck is worked.
If there is a «0» in your chosen size, skip the information and go straight to the next instruction.

BODY:
Cast on 260-260-284-300-340-348 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm, 1 strand DROPS Soft Tweed and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk (2 strands).
Work rib and PATTERN - read description above, as follows from the right side: 8 stitches according to BANDS WITH I-CORD – read description above, A.2, A.3, work rib (knit 2, purl 2) across the next 16-16-20-20-20-20 stitches, knit 2, work A.3, work rib (knit 2, purl 2) across the next 8-8-12-20-20-24 stitches, knit 2, work A.3, work rib (knit 2, purl 2) across the next 16-16-20-20-20-20 stitches, knit 2, work A.3, A.4, A.3, work rib (knit 2, purl 2) across the next 16-16-20-20-20-20 stitches, knit 2, work A.3, work rib (knit 2, purl 2) across the next 8-8-12-20-20-24 stitches, knit 2, work A.3, work rib (knit 2, purl 2) across the next 16-16-20-20-20-20 stitches, knit 2, work A.3, A.2, 8 band-stitches according to I-cord.
Work this rib for 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm, and with the next row from the right side.

Change to circular needle size 5 mm. Work the 8 band-stitches as before – remember the BUTTONHOLES – read description above, work A.5 across the next 18-18-18-18-24-24 stitches (across A.2), work A.6 across A.3, work 18-18-22-22-22-22 stocking stitches and decrease 3-1-3-2-5-2 stitches evenly over these stitches – read DECREASE TIP (= 15-17-19-20-17-20 stocking stitches left ), work A.6 across A.3, work 10-10-14-22-22-26 stocking stitches and decrease 2-0-2-2-0-0 stitches evenly over these stitches (= 8-10-12-20-22-26 stocking stitches left), work A.7 across A.3, work 18-18-22-22-22-22 stocking stitches and decrease 3-1-3-2-5-2 stitches evenly over these stitches (= 15-17-19-20-17-20 stocking stitches left), work A.7 across A.3, work A.5 across the next 36-36-36-36-48-48 stitches (across A.4), work A.6 across A.3, work 18-18-22-22-22-22 stocking stitches and decrease 3-1-3-2-5-2 stitches evenly over these stitches (= 15-17-19-20-17-20 stocking stitches left), work A.6 across A.3, work 10-10-14-22-22-26 stocking stitches and decrease 2-0-2-2-0-0 stitches evenly over these stitches (= 8-10-12-20-22-26 stocking stitches left), work A.7 across A.3, work 18-18-22-22-22-22 stocking stitches and decrease 3-1-3-2-5-2 stitches evenly over these stitches (= 15-17-19-20-17-20 stocking stitches left), work A.7 across A.3, work A.5 across the next 18-18-18-18-24-24 stitches (across A.2) and 8 band-stitches as before = 244-256-268-288-320-340 stitches.

Continue this pattern back and forth until the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm. Remember to maintain the knitting tension.

DIVIDE FOR ARMHOLES:
On the next row, divide for the armholes as follows:
Work 61-63-65-66-73-76 stitches as before (= front piece and band), cast off the next 8-10-12-20-22-26 stitches, work 106-110-114-116-130-136 stitches (= back piece), cast off 8-10-12-20-22-26 stitches and work the last 61-63-65-66-73-76 stitches as before (= front piece and band). The front and back pieces are finished separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 106-110-114-116-130-136 stitches. Continue the pattern back and forth but with the outermost stitch on each side worked in GARTER STITCH – read description above.
When the piece measures 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm, place stitches on threads for the diagonal shoulders and work the neckline as follows – read both sections before continuing.

DIAGONAL SHOULDERS:
Place the outermost 3-3-3-4-4-4 stitches by the armhole on a thread (work these stitches first to avoid cutting the strand). Place 3-3-3-4-4-4 stitches on the threads 4 times on each side (= 12-12-12-16-16-16 stitches on each thread).

NECKLINE:
AT THE SAME TIME, when there is 1 row left before the piece measures 57-59-61-63-65-67 cm, decrease 6-6-6-6-8-8 stitches evenly across A.5. On the next row cast off the middle 26-26-26-26-30-30 stitches for the neckline and finish each shoulder separately.
Continue placing stitches on the thread for the shoulder and cast off 2 stitches on the next row from the neck.

When all stitches are either on a thread or cast off, there are 23-25-27-24-28-31 shoulder-stitches left on the needle and the piece measures approx. 59-61-63-65-67-69 cm from the top of the shoulder.
Place the 12-12-12-16-16-16 stitches from the thread back on the needle together with the other 23-25-27-24-28-31 stitches = 35-37-39-40-44-47 stitches.
Knit 1 row from the right side and decrease 3-3-3-3-4-4 stitches evenly across each cable (= 6-6-6-6-8-8 decreased stitches) = 29-31-33-34-36-39 stitches – NOTE: To avoid holes in the transitions between stitches placed on the thread, pick up the strand between 2 stitches and knit it twisted together with the next stitch on the left needle. Knit 1 row from the wrong side then cast off with knit from the right side. The piece measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm from the top of the shoulder.
Work the other shoulder in the same way (cut the strand and begin from the right side, when all stitches are back on the needle).

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 61-63-65-66-73-76 stitches. Continue back and forth with pattern and band as before but with the outermost stitch by the armhole now worked in garter stitch.
When there is 1 row left before the piece measures 54-56-57-58-59-60 cm, decrease 3-3-3-3-4-4 stitches evenly across A.5 = 58-60-62-63-69-72 stitches.
You now place stitches on a thread for the neckline, cast off for the neckline and place stitches on a thread for the shoulder. Read both sections before continuing.

NECKLINE:
Place the outermost 17-17-17-16-16-16 stitches on a thread for the neckline (work the stitches first to avoid having to cut the strand). Then cast off every 2nd row 2-2-2-2-3-3 times 2 stitches and 1 stitch 2-2-2-3-3-3 times.

DIAGONAL SHOULDER:
AT THE SAME TIME, when the piece measures 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm, place the outermost 3-3-3-4-4-4 stitches by the armhole on a thread (work these stitches first to avoid having to cut the strand). Place 3-3-3-4-4-4 stitches on the thread a total of 4 times (= 12-12-12-16-16-16 stitches on the thread).

When all stitches are either on a thread or cast off, there are 23-25-27-24-28-31 shoulder-stitches left on the needle and the piece measures approx. 59-61-63-65-67-69 cm from the top of the shoulder. Cut the strand.
Place the 12-12-12-16-16-16 stitches from the thread back on the needle together with the other 23-25-27-24-28-31 stitches = 35-37-39-40-44-47 stitches.
Knit 1 row from the right side and decrease 3-3-3-3-4-4 stitches evenly across each cable (= 6-6-6-6-8-8 decreased stitches) = 29-31-33-34-36-39 stitches – NOTE: To avoid holes in the transitions between stitches placed on the thread, pick up the strand between 2 stitches and knit it twisted together with the next stitch on the left needle. Knit 1 row from the wrong side, then cast off with knit from the right side. The piece measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm from the top of the shoulder

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Worked in the same way as the left front piece but work the neckline and the diagonal shoulder on the opposite sides.

SLEEVES:
The sleeves are worked in the round as far as the sleeve cap, which is then finished back and forth.
Cast on 56-56-60-60-64-64 stitches with double pointed needles size 3.5 mm.
Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 5 mm and knit 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME decrease 10-8-10-8-12-10 stitches evenly on the round– remember DECREASE TIP = 46-48-50-52-52-54 stitches.
Insert 1 marker-thread at the beginning of the round (mid-under sleeve). Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it is used when increasing under the sleeve.
Work stocking stitch until the sleeve measures 8-8-8-9-9-11 cm from the cast-on edge. Now increase 2 stitches under the sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 3½-3-3-2½-2-1½ cm a total of 11-12-12-13-15-16 times = 68-72-74-78-82-86 stitches. Work stocking stitch until the sleeve measures 46-45-44-42-40-38 cm.
Now work the sleeve cap, back and forth from mid-under the sleeve for 2-3-4-6-7-8 cm. The whole sleeve measures 48-48-48-48-47-46 cm. Cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.
Sew the sleeves to the armholes, inside the 1 edge stitch - NOTE – the split under the sleeve is sewn to the bottom of the armhole - see sketch.

NECK:
Use circular needle size 3.5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (2 strands).:
Start from the right side, mid-front and knit up 102-102-106-106-114-118 stitches around the neckline (including the stitches on the threads mid-front); the stitch count must be divisible by 4 + 2.
Work the first row as follows from the wrong side: 8 band-stitches as before, work rib (purl 2, knit 2) until there are 10 stitches left, purl 2 and 8 band-stitches as before. Continue this rib back and forth – NOTE: Work the last buttonhole when the neck measures 1 cm. When the neck measures 6-6-7-7-8-8 cm and with the next row from the right side, work 3 rows of stocking stitch (= rolled edge). Change to circular needle size 5 mm and cast off a little loosely with purl from the wrong side. Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
	= place 3 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
	= place 3 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
	= place 4 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
	= place 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
	= place 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 1 from cable needle
	= place 2 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 1, knit 2 from cable needle
	= sew a to A and b to B

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
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Comments / Questions (2)

Nita wrote:

Waar kan ik telpatroon A1, A2, A3, A4, en A5 vinden? A6 en A7 zie ik wel onderaan de pagina staan. \r\nAlvast dank

01.12.2024 - 21:32

Marlies wrote:

Ik heb nog nooit met een rondbreinaald gebreid. Kan dit patroon ook zonder rondbreinaald gebreid worden. Dus op 2 naalden?

16.10.2024 - 19:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marlies,

Om een patroon aan te passen om op rechte naalden te breien hebben we een instructie gemaakt. Deze vind je hier.

17.10.2024 - 20:54

Stormy Ocean Cardigan

Knitted over-sized jacket in DROPS Soft Tweed and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked bottom up with cables, sewn in sleeves, diagonal shoulders, rolled edges and I-cord. Sizes S - XXXL.

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to read a size chart

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

How to increase/decrease evenly!

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 254-17

Comments / Questions (2)

Stormy Ocean Cardigan

Knitted over-sized jacket in DROPS Soft Tweed and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked bottom up with cables, sewn in sleeves, diagonal shoulders, rolled edges and I-cord. Sizes S - XXXL.

Diagram explanations

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	DROPS Soft Tweed uni colour 50% Wool, 25% Alpaca, 25% Viscose	4.00 £ /50g	Order
	DROPS Soft Tweed mix 50% Wool, 25% Alpaca, 25% Viscose	4.00 £ /50g	Order

	DROPS Soft Tweed uni colour 50% Wool, 25% Alpaca, 25% Viscose 4.00 £ /50g Order
	DROPS Soft Tweed mix 50% Wool, 25% Alpaca, 25% Viscose 4.00 £ /50g Order