DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g

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DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g

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DROPS Needles & Hooks

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 53.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Far Away

Knitted jumper in DROPS BabyMerino and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with European/diagonal shoulders, Nordic pattern and double neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 254-8
DROPS Design: Pattern bm-115
Yarn group A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-300-350-400-400-450 g colour 01, white
200-200-250-250-300-300 g colour 33, electric blue
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-125-125-150-150 g colour 01, off white
75-75-100-100-100-125 g colour 21, cobalt blue

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 27 rows in height, with stocking stitch/Nordic pattern and 2 strands on needle size 3.5 mm = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jumpers Nordic Jumpers assembly free colourwork double neck european shoulder nordic oversized round neck stocking stitch top down

UK
Ireland

DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g

Order

DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 53.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows the pattern from the right side and is worked in stocking stitch.
Work pattern as follows: * A.1 one time in height, then 4-4-4-4-5-5 cm with background colour *, work from *-* until A.1 has been worked 3 times in height, finish the jumper with the background colour.
To avoid the knitting tension losing its elasticity when working colour-pattern, it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. Use a size larger needle when working pattern if the piece becomes tight.

INCREASE TIP-1:
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS LEFT – from right side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up the strand from the front and knit the back loop.
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS RIGHT – from right side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up the strand from the back and knit the front loop.

INCREASE TIP-2:
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS LEFT – from wrong side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up the strand from the back and purl the front loop.
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS RIGHT – from wrong side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up the strand from the front and purl the back loop.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-stitch as follows:
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit the marker-stitch, slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

KNITTING TIP:
When working short rows, there will be a small hole after each turn. This hole can be closed by tightening the strand or using the technique German Short Rows as follows:
Slip the first stitch purl-wise, take the strand over the right needle and tighten well from the back (2 loops on the needle). These loops are worked together on the next row.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The pattern uses both long and short needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary.
The piece is started back and forth, casting on stitches at the back of the neck and working the back piece top down, while increasing stitches on each side for the shoulders which become slightly diagonal. The back piece is then worked with pattern as far as the armholes and set aside.
The front piece is worked in 2 sections, knitting up stitches first along 1 back shoulder and increasing for the neckline. This is repeated on the other shoulder, the 2 front sections are joined when the neckline is finished and worked with pattern until the armholes are finished.
The front and back pieces are joined on the same circular needle and the body worked in the round
Stitches are knitted up around the armholes for the sleeves, which are started back and forth for the sleeve cap then finished in the round. Stitches are knitted up around the neckline and the neck worked in the round then folded double to the inside to finish.

BACK PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth. Cast on 37-37-41-45-45-49 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm, 1 strand colour white DROPS Baby Merino and 1 strand colour off white DROPS Kid-Silk (2 strands, hereafter called background colour).
ROW 1 (wrong side): Purl.
ROW 2 (right side): Read INCREASE TIP-1. Knit 3, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit until there are 3 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 3.
ROW 3 (wrong side): Read INCREASE TIP-2. Purl 3, increase 1 stitch towards the left, purl until there are 3 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, purl 3.
AFTER 3rd ROW:
Work ROWS 2 and 3 a total of 15-17-17-18-20-22 times (30-34-34-36-40-44 rows worked). There are = 97-105-109-117-125-137 stitches. Insert 1 marker outermost on one side. The piece is now measured from here!

Continue as follows: 2 stocking stitches with background colour, see start-arrow for your size and work the last 6-0-2-6-0-6 stitches in A.1, work A.1 across the next 80-100-100-100-120-120 stitches, work the first 7-1-3-7-1-7 stitches in A.1 (so the pattern is symmetric) and 2 stocking stitches with background colour. Continue this pattern until the piece measures 14-15-16-17-17-18 cm from the marker and finishing after a row from the wrong side. Note which row this is in the pattern.
Cut the strand, place the stitches on a stitch holder and work the left front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Find the left back shoulder as follows: Lay the back piece flat, right side up, with the stitch holder towards you; left side of piece = left shoulder.
Start from the right side by the neck with background colour and knit up 1 stitch in each worked row on the left back shoulder (inside the outermost stitch) to the shoulder = 30-34-34-36-40-44 stitches.
All measurements on the front piece are taken from this knitted-up row.
Work stocking stitch (first row from wrong side).
When the piece measures 10-10-10-10-12-12 cm, increase for the neck as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Remember INCREASE TIP-1. Knit 3, increase 1 stitch towards the left, work to end of row.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Purl.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 3 times (6 worked rows) = 33-37-37-39-43-47 stitches (last row from the wrong side).
Work 2 rows of colour pattern according to A.1 with 2 stitches in background colour by the armhole. Rows 1 and 2 in A.1 have now been worked.
Cut the strands, place the stitches on a stitch holder and work the right front piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Start from the right side, outermost on the right back shoulder with background colour and knit up 1 stitch in each worked row along the shoulder (inside the outermost stitch) to the neckline = 30-34-34-36-40-44 stitches.
All measurements on the front piece are taken from this knitted-up row.
Work stocking stitch (first row from wrong side).
When the piece measures 10-10-10-10-12-12 cm, increase for the neck as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Remember INCREASE TIP-1. Work until there are 3 stitches left on the row, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 3.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Purl.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 3 times (6 worked rows) = 33-37-37-39-43-47 stitches (last row from the wrong side).
Work 2 rows of colour pattern according to A.1 with 2 stitches in background colour by the armhole. Rows 1 and 2 in A.1 have now been worked.
Now join the 2 front pieces.

FRONT PIECE:
From the right side and with background colour (which is row 3 in A.1), work the 33-37-37-39-43-47 stitches on the right front piece, cast on 31-31-35-39-39-43 stitches for the neckline, work the 33-37-37-39-43-47 stitches on the left front piece = 97-105-109-117-125-137 stitches.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side with background colour (this is row 4 in A.1).

Work as follows from the right side (row 5 in A.1): 2 stitches with background colour, see start-arrow for your size and work the last 6-0-2-6-0-6 stitches in A.1, work A.1 across the next 80-100-100-100-120-120 stitches, work the first 7-1-3-7-1-7 stitches in A.1 (so the pattern is symmetrical), work 2 stitches with background colour.
Continue working until the piece measures 26-27-28-29-31-32 cm, finishing on the same row as the back piece. Now join the front and back pieces. Cut the strand

BODY:
Cast on 4-4-6-7-9-9 new stitches then continue the pattern across the 97-105-109-117-125-137 stitches on the front piece, cast on 7-7-11-13-17-17 stitches (in side mid-under sleeve), continue the pattern across the 97-105-109-117-125-137 stitches on the back piece, cast on 3-3-5-6-8-8 stitches (in side mid-under sleeve) = 208-224-240-260-284-308 stitches.
Continue A.1 in the round across all stitches. NOTE! The pattern will not fit under the sleeves; work the pattern as far as it will go. The middle stitch of the cast-on stitches under both sleeves is always worked with background colour.
Work until the front piece measures 61-63-65-66-68-70 cm.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Work rib with background colour (knit 1, purl 1), AT THE SAME TIME increase 20-22-24-26-28-30 stitches evenly on the first round = 228-246-264-286-312-338 stitches. When the rib measures 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm, cast off.
The front piece measures approx. 65-67-69-71-73-75 cm from the knitted-up row and is 3 cm longer than the finished length as the knitted-up row is not on the shoulder but slightly down the back piece. The jumper measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm.

SLEEVES:
The sleeve is worked top down.
Lay the piece flat and insert 1 marker at the top of the armhole (NOTE! This is not in the knitted-up row on the front piece but approx. 6-6-6-6-7-7 cm down the front piece).
Use circular needle size 2.5 mm and background colour. Start in the middle of the cast-on stitches under the sleeve, knit up 82-86-94-102-110-114 stitches around the armhole, with equal numbers of stitches on both sides of the marker. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Insert 1 marker in the middle cast-on stitch and move the marker on top of the armhole to the middle stitch on the round – with equal numbers of stitches on each side.
Work stocking stitch back and forth with short rows for the sleeve cap, starting mid-under the sleeve as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Knit to 8-8-12-12-12-14 stitches past the marker-stitch on top of the armhole, turn – read KNITTING TIP.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Purl to 8-8-12-12-12-14 stitches past the marker-stitch, turn.
ROW 3 (right side): Knit to 5 stitches past the previous turn, turn.
ROW 4 (wrong side): Purl to 5 stitches past the previous turn, turn.
Repeat ROWS 3 and 4 until you have turned a total of 8 times (4 times on each side, with the last row from the wrong side).

AFTER THE LAST TURN:
Knit back to the beginning of the round (mid-under sleeve).
Now work stocking stitch and pattern in the round as follows, as well as decreasing under the sleeve. Read the next 2 sections before continuing.

PATTERN:
Remember to decrease as described below. After the sleeve cap continue in the round as follows: Work 4-4-4-4-5-5 cm with background colour, then work A.1 in the round – the pattern will not fit under the sleeve. Count out from the marker-stitch on the shoulder to determine where the pattern should start under the sleeve – the marker-stitch should match the mid-stitch in A.1. Work pattern in the same way as on the body but after 2 repeats of A.1 in height finish the sleeve with background colour.

DECREASES:
Read DECREASE TIP.
when the sleeve measures 1 cm from the join, decrease 2 stitches every 2nd round 4-4-5-6-7-8 times, then every 3-3-2½-1½-1½-1½ cm 9-10-12-15-17-17 times = 56-58-60-60-62-64 stitches
Continue working until the sleeve measures 45-44-44-42-41-39 cm from the shoulder. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1), AT THE SAME TIME increase 6-6-6-6-6-6 stitches evenly on round 1 = 62-64-66-66-68-70 stitches. When the rib measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm, cast off. The sleeve measures approx. 51-50-50-49-48-46 cm from top of shoulder.

NECK:
Use circular needle size 2.5 mm and background colour. Start from the right side on one shoulder-line and knit up 112 to 148 stitches inside 1 stitch – the stitch count should be divisible by 2. Work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 9-9-9-10-10-10 cm. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and cast off a little loosely.
Fold the neck double to the inside and fasten down with a couple of stitches by each shoulder.

Diagram

	= DROPS Baby Merino colour white + DROPS Kid-Silk colour off white
	= DROPS Baby Merino colour electric blue + DROPS Kid-Silk colour cobalt blue
	= mid-stitch

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!