DROPS Air
DROPS Air
 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425
  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Jumpers
  4. Nordic
  5. DROPS
  6. 255
  7. 35

Snowflake Sky

Knitted over-sized jumper in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with European/diagonal shoulders, Nordic pattern and rolled neck-edge. Sizes XS-XXL.

Highlight Size:
DROPS 255-35
DROPS Design: Pattern ai-502
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

YARN:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-300-350-400-400-450 g colour 30, sage green
100-150-150-150-200-200 g colour 01, off white

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height, with stocking stitch and Nordic pattern on needle size 5 mm = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jumpers Nordic Jumpersassembly free colourwork european shoulder nordic oversized round neck stocking stitch top down
DROPS Air
DROPS Air
 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Comments (9)

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE TIP-1:
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS THE LEFT – from the right side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up the strand from the front and knit the back loop.
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS THE RIGHT – from the right side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up the strand from the back and knit the front loop.

INCREASE TIP-2:
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS LEFT – from wrong side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the strand from the back and purl the front loop.
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS RIGHT – from wrong side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the strand from the front and purl the back loop.

INCREASE TIP-3 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g., 178 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g., 30) = 5.9.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 6th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. The diagrams show the pattern from the right side and the patterns are worked in stocking stitch.
Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.5).
Find the correct side in the diagram (applies to A.1 - A.3/A.4).

KNITTING TIP-1:
Mark on the diagram where the back piece finishes (on which row) – this makes it easier to match the armholes on the front piece.

KNITTING TIP-2:
When working short rows, there will be a small hole after each turn – this hole can be closed by tightening the strand or using the technique German Short Rows as follows:
Slip the first stitch purl-wise, lay the strand over the right needle and tighten well from the back. There are now 2 loops on the needle, which are worked together on the next row.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread as follows:
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together with the background colour, knit 2 with the background colour (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), knit 2 together with the background colour (2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The pattern uses both long and short needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary.
The piece is started by casting on stitches at the back of the neck and working the back piece back and forth, top down, while increasing stitches on each side for the shoulders, which become slightly diagonal. The back piece is worked as far as the armholes.
The front piece is started in 2 sections, knitting up stitches along one back shoulders and working downwards with pattern while increasing for the neckline, then repeating this on the other shoulder. The 2 sections are joined when the increases for the neckline are finished, and the front piece is continued back and forth until the armholes are finished.
The front and back pieces are joined on the same circular needle and the body finished, in the round.
Stitches are knitted up around the armholes for the sleeves, which are started back and forth for the sleeve cap, then finished in the round.
Stitches are knitted up around the neckline and the neck worked in the round.

BACK PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth. Cast on 31-33-33-33-37-37 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and colour sage green DROPS Air.
ROW 1 (wrong side): Purl.
ROW 2 (right side): Read INCREASE TIP-1. Knit 2, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit until there are 2 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 2.
ROW 3 (wrong side): Read INCREASE TIP-2. Purl 2, increase 1 stitch towards the left, purl until there are 2 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, purl 2.
Work ROWS 2 and 3 a total of 14-15-17-18-19-21 times (28-30-34-36-38-42 worked rows) = 87-93-101-105-113-121 stitches. The piece measures approx. 13-14-16-16-17-19 cm from the cast-on edge mid-back.
Insert 1 marker outermost on 1 side. The piece is now measured from here!
On the next row from the right side, work PATTERN – read description above, as follows:
Work 2 stocking stitches in colour sage green, start at the arrow for your size and work the last 9-12-32-2-6-10 stitches in A.1, then work A.1 a total of 2-2-2-3-3-3 times, the first 10-13-1-3-7-11 stitches in A.1 (so the pattern is symmetrical on both sides) and 2 stocking stitches in colour sage green. Continue this pattern back and forth. Remember to maintain the knitting tension.
When A.1 is finished in height, work A.2 in the same way, i.e., 2 stocking stitches in colour sage green, start at the arrow for your size and work the last 9-12-32-2-6-10 stitches in A.2, then work A.2 a total of 2-2-2-3-3-3 times, the first 10-13-1-3-7-11 stitches in A.2 and 2 stocking stitches in colour sage green. A.2 is repeated in height.
Work until the piece measures 14-15-15-16-17-17 cm measured along the armhole from the marker, finishing after a row from the wrong side – read KNITTING TIP-1.
Cut the strand, place the stitches on a stitch holder. Work the left shoulder and front piece as follows:

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Find the left shoulder on the back piece as follows: Lay the piece flat, right side up, with the stitch holder towards you; left side of piece = left shoulder.
Starting from the right side, knit up stitches along the left back shoulder, from the neck to the armhole as follows:
Use colour sage green and knit up 1 stitch in each worked row, inside 1 stitch along the shoulder, then 1 stitch in each of the next 2 rows outermost on the shoulder = 30-32-36-38-40-44 stitches.
All measurements for the piece are taken from this knitted-up row.
Work stocking stitch back and forth.
When the piece measures 7-7-9-9-9-10 cm, increase for the neckline as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Remember INCREASE TIP-1. Knit 2, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit to end of row.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Purl.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 4 times (8 worked rows) = 34-36-40-42-44-48 stitches.
Cut the strand, place the stitches on a stitch holder, noting which row in A.1 you finished on. Now work the right front piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Starting from the right side, knit up stitches along the right back shoulder from the armhole to the neck as follows:
Use colour sage green, start 2 rows before the last increase for the shoulder and knit up inside 1 stitch, 1 stitch in each of these rows, then 1 stitch in each worked row along the shoulder to the neck = 30-32-36-38-40-44 stitches.
All measurements for the piece are taken from this knitted-up row.
Work stocking stitch back and forth.
When the piece measures 7-7-9-9-9-10 cm, increase for the neckline as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Knit until there are 2 stitches left on the row, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 2 - remember INCREASE TIP-1.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Purl.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 4 times (8 worked rows) = 34-36-40-42-44-48 stitches. Now join the 2 front pieces together.

FRONT PIECE:
Work as follows from the right side:
Work the 34-36-40-42-44-48 stitches from the right front piece, cast on 19-21-21-21-25-25 stitches for the neckline, work the 34-36-40-42-44-48 stitches from the left front piece = 87-93-101-105-113-121 stitches.
Work stocking stitch back and forth.
When the piece measures 12-12-14-14-14-16 cm from the knitted-up row (approx. 1-1-1-1-1-2 cm of stocking stitch after the cast-on stitches mid-front) and with the next row from the right side, work PATTERN as follows:
Work 2 stocking stitches in colour sage green, start at the arrow for your size and work the last 9-12-32-2-6-10 stitches in A.1, then work A.1 a total of 2-2-2-3-3-3 times, the first 10-13-1-3-7-11 stitches in A.1 (so the pattern is symmetrical on both sides) and 2 stocking stitches in colour sage green. Continue this pattern back and forth.
When A.1 is finished in height, work A.2 in the same way, i.e., 2 stocking stitches in colour sage green, start at the arrow for your size and work the last 9-12-32-2-6-10 stitches in A.2, then work A.2 a total of 2-2-2-3-3-3 times, the first 10-13-1-3-7-11 stitches in A.2 and 2 stocking stitches in colour sage green.
Work until the piece measures 26-27-29-30-31-33 cm from the knitted-up row, finishing after a row from the wrong side (the same row as on the back piece). Now join the front and back pieces for the body.
The piece is now measured from here!

BODY:
Continue the pattern across the 87-93-101-105-113-121 stitches on the front piece, cast on 2-2-2-8-8-8 stitches (in side mid-under sleeve), continue the pattern across the 87-93-101-105-113-121 stitches from the back piece, cast on 2-2-2-8-8-8 stitches (in side mid-under sleeve) = 178-190-206-226-242-258 stitches.
Work pattern in the round, with A.2 on the front and back pieces and A.5 under each sleeve as follows: Work the first 2 stitches according to the last 2 stitches in A.5, continue A.2 across the next 83-89-97-101-109-117 stitches (= front piece), work A.5 across the next 6-6-6-12-12-12 stitches (2-2-2-8-8-8 cast-on stitches + 2 stitches on each side), continue A.2 across the next 83-89-97-101-109-117 stitches (= back piece), work the last 4-4-4-10-10-10 stitches according to the first 4-4-4-10-10-10 stitches in A.5.
Work until the piece measures 26-27-26-27-27-27 cm from the armholes (the front piece measures approx. 52-54-55-57-58-60 cm from the knitted-up row) and finishing after a round marked either with star-1 or star-2 in A.2.
If you finish after a round with star-1, work A.3 across the stitches in A.2 (starting at the correct arrow and continuing the pattern, with A.5 in each side as before).
If you finish after a round with star-2, work A.4 across the stitches in A.2 (starting at the correct arrow and continuing the pattern, with A.5 in each side as before).
When A.3/A.4 is finished in height, work 2 rounds of stocking stitch, using colour sage green.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work rib with colour sage green (knit 1, purl 1). AT THE SAME TIME, increase 30-34-38-38-42-46 stitches evenly on round 1 – read INCREASE TIP-3 = 208-224-244-264-284-304 stitches.
When the rib measures 5-5-6-6-7-7 cm, cast off a little loosely with rib.
The front piece measures approx. 59-61-63-65-67-69 cm from the knitted-up row, and is approx. 3 cm longer than the finished length as the knitted-up row is not on top of the shoulder but positioned slightly down the back piece. The jumper measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm.

SLEEVES:
The sleeves are worked top down.
Lay the piece flat and insert 1 marker mid-top of shoulder (NOTE! Mid-top of shoulder is not the knitted-up row on the front piece but approx. 6 to 8 cm down the front piece).
Use circular needle size 3.5 mm and colour sage green. Start in the middle of the cast-on stitches under the sleeve and knit up 65-67-73-83-85-91 stitches (inside 1 stitch) around the armhole, making sure you have equal numbers of stitches on each side of the marker on the shoulder.
Change to circular needle size 5 mm.
Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch on the row (= mid-stitch on top of sleeve, which should have a different colour from the first marker).
Starting mid-under the sleeve, work stocking stitch and short rows back and forth for the sleeve cap (so the sleeve has a better fit) as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Knit to 8-8-8-9-9-9 stitches past the first inserted marker on the shoulder, turn – read KNITTING TIP-2.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Purl to 8-8-8-9-9-9 stitches past the marker, turn.
ROW 3 (right side): Knit to 7-7-7-7-7-7 stitches past the previous turn, turn.
ROW 4 (wrong side): Purl to 7-7-7-7-7-7 stitches past the previous turn, turn.
Repeat ROWS 3 and 4 onwards until you have turned a total of 8-8-8-8-10-10 times (4-4-4-4-5-5 times on each side, with the last row from the wrong side).

AFTER THE LAST TURN:
Knit back from the right side to the beginning of the round (mid-under sleeve).
Insert 1 marker-thread at the beginning of the round; this is used when decreasing under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards.
You now work stocking stitch in the round, decrease under the sleeve and work PATTERN – read description above. Read the next 2 sections before continuing.

DECREASING:
When the sleeve measures 1 cm from the join, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread– read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 2-2-2-8-8-8 times, then every 1½ cm 6-7-7-6-7-7 times = 49-49-55-55-55-61 stitches.

PATTERN:
Remember the decreases. When the sleeve measures 8-8-7-7-6-6 cm from the shoulder-marker, work A.6 round the sleeve – the pattern will not fit under the sleeve; count out from the marker-stitch on top of the sleeve to determine where to start the pattern under the sleeve; the marker-stitch should match the mid-stitch in A.6. Work A.6 a total of 5-5-5-5-4-4 times in height, work the first 3 rounds in A.6, then work stocking stitch with colour sage green to finished length.

Work until the sleeve measures 42-42-40-39-37-36 cm from the marker on the shoulder.
Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm, work rib (knit 1, purl 1) with colour sage green. AT THE SAME TIME, increase 7-7-9-9-9-11 stitches evenly on the first round = 56-56-64-64-64-72 stitches. When the rib measures 5-5-6-6-7-7 cm cast off a little loosely with rib. The sleeve measures approx. 47-47-46-45-44-43 cm from the marker on the shoulder.

NECK:
Use circular needle size 3.5 mm and colour sage green. Start from the right side on one shoulder-line and knit up 96-100-108-108-120-124 stitches inside 1 stitch (if you knit up fewer stitches than this, adjust to the correct number on round 1) – the stitch count should be divisible by 2, with 1 knitted stitch on each shoulder-line. Work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm. Work 3 rounds of stocking stitch (rolled edge). Change to circular needle size 5 mm, cast off a little loosely with knit.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side with colour sage green
symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side with colour off white
symbols = mid-stitch sleeve
symbols = finish pattern at bottom of body after this round
symbols = start pattern by arrow for your size
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Magpie wrote:

Frosty window

12.08.2024 - 10:44

country flag Malene Siedentopp wrote:

Snowflack

11.08.2024 - 20:18

country flag Jaqueline wrote:

Cosy Hugs

11.08.2024 - 15:52

country flag Franziska wrote:

Frozen Fractals

10.08.2024 - 19:40

country flag Heather wrote:

Winter Garden

10.08.2024 - 17:29

country flag Madelaine wrote:

Ice Palace Pullover

09.08.2024 - 19:22

country flag Allie Lazell wrote:

Snowflake

08.08.2024 - 21:23

country flag Judy wrote:

Fairy dust

08.08.2024 - 21:01

country flag Aitziber wrote:

Winter sweet

08.08.2024 - 18:37

Snowflake Sky



Knitted over-sized jumper in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with European/diagonal shoulders, Nordic pattern and rolled neck-edge. Sizes XS-XXL.

DROPS 255-35
DROPS Design: Pattern ai-502
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

YARN:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-300-350-400-400-450 g colour 30, sage green
100-150-150-150-200-200 g colour 01, off white

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height, with stocking stitch and Nordic pattern on needle size 5 mm = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE TIP-1:
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS THE LEFT – from the right side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up the strand from the front and knit the back loop.
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS THE RIGHT – from the right side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up the strand from the back and knit the front loop.

INCREASE TIP-2:
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS LEFT – from wrong side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the strand from the back and purl the front loop.
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS RIGHT – from wrong side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the strand from the front and purl the back loop.

INCREASE TIP-3 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g., 178 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g., 30) = 5.9.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 6th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. The diagrams show the pattern from the right side and the patterns are worked in stocking stitch.
Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.5).
Find the correct side in the diagram (applies to A.1 - A.3/A.4).

KNITTING TIP-1:
Mark on the diagram where the back piece finishes (on which row) – this makes it easier to match the armholes on the front piece.

KNITTING TIP-2:
When working short rows, there will be a small hole after each turn – this hole can be closed by tightening the strand or using the technique German Short Rows as follows:
Slip the first stitch purl-wise, lay the strand over the right needle and tighten well from the back. There are now 2 loops on the needle, which are worked together on the next row.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread as follows:
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together with the background colour, knit 2 with the background colour (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), knit 2 together with the background colour (2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The pattern uses both long and short needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary.
The piece is started by casting on stitches at the back of the neck and working the back piece back and forth, top down, while increasing stitches on each side for the shoulders, which become slightly diagonal. The back piece is worked as far as the armholes.
The front piece is started in 2 sections, knitting up stitches along one back shoulders and working downwards with pattern while increasing for the neckline, then repeating this on the other shoulder. The 2 sections are joined when the increases for the neckline are finished, and the front piece is continued back and forth until the armholes are finished.
The front and back pieces are joined on the same circular needle and the body finished, in the round.
Stitches are knitted up around the armholes for the sleeves, which are started back and forth for the sleeve cap, then finished in the round.
Stitches are knitted up around the neckline and the neck worked in the round.

BACK PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth. Cast on 31-33-33-33-37-37 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and colour sage green DROPS Air.
ROW 1 (wrong side): Purl.
ROW 2 (right side): Read INCREASE TIP-1. Knit 2, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit until there are 2 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 2.
ROW 3 (wrong side): Read INCREASE TIP-2. Purl 2, increase 1 stitch towards the left, purl until there are 2 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, purl 2.
Work ROWS 2 and 3 a total of 14-15-17-18-19-21 times (28-30-34-36-38-42 worked rows) = 87-93-101-105-113-121 stitches. The piece measures approx. 13-14-16-16-17-19 cm from the cast-on edge mid-back.
Insert 1 marker outermost on 1 side. The piece is now measured from here!
On the next row from the right side, work PATTERN – read description above, as follows:
Work 2 stocking stitches in colour sage green, start at the arrow for your size and work the last 9-12-32-2-6-10 stitches in A.1, then work A.1 a total of 2-2-2-3-3-3 times, the first 10-13-1-3-7-11 stitches in A.1 (so the pattern is symmetrical on both sides) and 2 stocking stitches in colour sage green. Continue this pattern back and forth. Remember to maintain the knitting tension.
When A.1 is finished in height, work A.2 in the same way, i.e., 2 stocking stitches in colour sage green, start at the arrow for your size and work the last 9-12-32-2-6-10 stitches in A.2, then work A.2 a total of 2-2-2-3-3-3 times, the first 10-13-1-3-7-11 stitches in A.2 and 2 stocking stitches in colour sage green. A.2 is repeated in height.
Work until the piece measures 14-15-15-16-17-17 cm measured along the armhole from the marker, finishing after a row from the wrong side – read KNITTING TIP-1.
Cut the strand, place the stitches on a stitch holder. Work the left shoulder and front piece as follows:

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Find the left shoulder on the back piece as follows: Lay the piece flat, right side up, with the stitch holder towards you; left side of piece = left shoulder.
Starting from the right side, knit up stitches along the left back shoulder, from the neck to the armhole as follows:
Use colour sage green and knit up 1 stitch in each worked row, inside 1 stitch along the shoulder, then 1 stitch in each of the next 2 rows outermost on the shoulder = 30-32-36-38-40-44 stitches.
All measurements for the piece are taken from this knitted-up row.
Work stocking stitch back and forth.
When the piece measures 7-7-9-9-9-10 cm, increase for the neckline as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Remember INCREASE TIP-1. Knit 2, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit to end of row.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Purl.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 4 times (8 worked rows) = 34-36-40-42-44-48 stitches.
Cut the strand, place the stitches on a stitch holder, noting which row in A.1 you finished on. Now work the right front piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Starting from the right side, knit up stitches along the right back shoulder from the armhole to the neck as follows:
Use colour sage green, start 2 rows before the last increase for the shoulder and knit up inside 1 stitch, 1 stitch in each of these rows, then 1 stitch in each worked row along the shoulder to the neck = 30-32-36-38-40-44 stitches.
All measurements for the piece are taken from this knitted-up row.
Work stocking stitch back and forth.
When the piece measures 7-7-9-9-9-10 cm, increase for the neckline as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Knit until there are 2 stitches left on the row, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 2 - remember INCREASE TIP-1.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Purl.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 4 times (8 worked rows) = 34-36-40-42-44-48 stitches. Now join the 2 front pieces together.

FRONT PIECE:
Work as follows from the right side:
Work the 34-36-40-42-44-48 stitches from the right front piece, cast on 19-21-21-21-25-25 stitches for the neckline, work the 34-36-40-42-44-48 stitches from the left front piece = 87-93-101-105-113-121 stitches.
Work stocking stitch back and forth.
When the piece measures 12-12-14-14-14-16 cm from the knitted-up row (approx. 1-1-1-1-1-2 cm of stocking stitch after the cast-on stitches mid-front) and with the next row from the right side, work PATTERN as follows:
Work 2 stocking stitches in colour sage green, start at the arrow for your size and work the last 9-12-32-2-6-10 stitches in A.1, then work A.1 a total of 2-2-2-3-3-3 times, the first 10-13-1-3-7-11 stitches in A.1 (so the pattern is symmetrical on both sides) and 2 stocking stitches in colour sage green. Continue this pattern back and forth.
When A.1 is finished in height, work A.2 in the same way, i.e., 2 stocking stitches in colour sage green, start at the arrow for your size and work the last 9-12-32-2-6-10 stitches in A.2, then work A.2 a total of 2-2-2-3-3-3 times, the first 10-13-1-3-7-11 stitches in A.2 and 2 stocking stitches in colour sage green.
Work until the piece measures 26-27-29-30-31-33 cm from the knitted-up row, finishing after a row from the wrong side (the same row as on the back piece). Now join the front and back pieces for the body.
The piece is now measured from here!

BODY:
Continue the pattern across the 87-93-101-105-113-121 stitches on the front piece, cast on 2-2-2-8-8-8 stitches (in side mid-under sleeve), continue the pattern across the 87-93-101-105-113-121 stitches from the back piece, cast on 2-2-2-8-8-8 stitches (in side mid-under sleeve) = 178-190-206-226-242-258 stitches.
Work pattern in the round, with A.2 on the front and back pieces and A.5 under each sleeve as follows: Work the first 2 stitches according to the last 2 stitches in A.5, continue A.2 across the next 83-89-97-101-109-117 stitches (= front piece), work A.5 across the next 6-6-6-12-12-12 stitches (2-2-2-8-8-8 cast-on stitches + 2 stitches on each side), continue A.2 across the next 83-89-97-101-109-117 stitches (= back piece), work the last 4-4-4-10-10-10 stitches according to the first 4-4-4-10-10-10 stitches in A.5.
Work until the piece measures 26-27-26-27-27-27 cm from the armholes (the front piece measures approx. 52-54-55-57-58-60 cm from the knitted-up row) and finishing after a round marked either with star-1 or star-2 in A.2.
If you finish after a round with star-1, work A.3 across the stitches in A.2 (starting at the correct arrow and continuing the pattern, with A.5 in each side as before).
If you finish after a round with star-2, work A.4 across the stitches in A.2 (starting at the correct arrow and continuing the pattern, with A.5 in each side as before).
When A.3/A.4 is finished in height, work 2 rounds of stocking stitch, using colour sage green.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work rib with colour sage green (knit 1, purl 1). AT THE SAME TIME, increase 30-34-38-38-42-46 stitches evenly on round 1 – read INCREASE TIP-3 = 208-224-244-264-284-304 stitches.
When the rib measures 5-5-6-6-7-7 cm, cast off a little loosely with rib.
The front piece measures approx. 59-61-63-65-67-69 cm from the knitted-up row, and is approx. 3 cm longer than the finished length as the knitted-up row is not on top of the shoulder but positioned slightly down the back piece. The jumper measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm.

SLEEVES:
The sleeves are worked top down.
Lay the piece flat and insert 1 marker mid-top of shoulder (NOTE! Mid-top of shoulder is not the knitted-up row on the front piece but approx. 6 to 8 cm down the front piece).
Use circular needle size 3.5 mm and colour sage green. Start in the middle of the cast-on stitches under the sleeve and knit up 65-67-73-83-85-91 stitches (inside 1 stitch) around the armhole, making sure you have equal numbers of stitches on each side of the marker on the shoulder.
Change to circular needle size 5 mm.
Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch on the row (= mid-stitch on top of sleeve, which should have a different colour from the first marker).
Starting mid-under the sleeve, work stocking stitch and short rows back and forth for the sleeve cap (so the sleeve has a better fit) as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Knit to 8-8-8-9-9-9 stitches past the first inserted marker on the shoulder, turn – read KNITTING TIP-2.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Purl to 8-8-8-9-9-9 stitches past the marker, turn.
ROW 3 (right side): Knit to 7-7-7-7-7-7 stitches past the previous turn, turn.
ROW 4 (wrong side): Purl to 7-7-7-7-7-7 stitches past the previous turn, turn.
Repeat ROWS 3 and 4 onwards until you have turned a total of 8-8-8-8-10-10 times (4-4-4-4-5-5 times on each side, with the last row from the wrong side).

AFTER THE LAST TURN:
Knit back from the right side to the beginning of the round (mid-under sleeve).
Insert 1 marker-thread at the beginning of the round; this is used when decreasing under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards.
You now work stocking stitch in the round, decrease under the sleeve and work PATTERN – read description above. Read the next 2 sections before continuing.

DECREASING:
When the sleeve measures 1 cm from the join, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread– read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 2-2-2-8-8-8 times, then every 1½ cm 6-7-7-6-7-7 times = 49-49-55-55-55-61 stitches.

PATTERN:
Remember the decreases. When the sleeve measures 8-8-7-7-6-6 cm from the shoulder-marker, work A.6 round the sleeve – the pattern will not fit under the sleeve; count out from the marker-stitch on top of the sleeve to determine where to start the pattern under the sleeve; the marker-stitch should match the mid-stitch in A.6. Work A.6 a total of 5-5-5-5-4-4 times in height, work the first 3 rounds in A.6, then work stocking stitch with colour sage green to finished length.

Work until the sleeve measures 42-42-40-39-37-36 cm from the marker on the shoulder.
Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm, work rib (knit 1, purl 1) with colour sage green. AT THE SAME TIME, increase 7-7-9-9-9-11 stitches evenly on the first round = 56-56-64-64-64-72 stitches. When the rib measures 5-5-6-6-7-7 cm cast off a little loosely with rib. The sleeve measures approx. 47-47-46-45-44-43 cm from the marker on the shoulder.

NECK:
Use circular needle size 3.5 mm and colour sage green. Start from the right side on one shoulder-line and knit up 96-100-108-108-120-124 stitches inside 1 stitch (if you knit up fewer stitches than this, adjust to the correct number on round 1) – the stitch count should be divisible by 2, with 1 knitted stitch on each shoulder-line. Work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm. Work 3 rounds of stocking stitch (rolled edge). Change to circular needle size 5 mm, cast off a little loosely with knit.

Diagram explanations
symbol = knit from right side, purl from wrong side with colour sage green
symbol = knit from right side, purl from wrong side with colour off white
symbol = mid-stitch sleeve
symbol = finish pattern at bottom of body after this round
symbol = start pattern by arrow for your size

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