DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Dreamcatcher Top

Crocheted top in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked top down with fan pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:
DROPS 248-1
DROPS Design: Pattern e-368
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-150-150-150-200-200 g colour 72, chalk

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 521: 2 items in all sizes.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 MM.

CROCHET TENSION:
24 treble crochets in width and 13 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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CROCHET INFORMATION:
At the beginning of each row of treble crochets work 3 chain stitches, which replace the first treble crochet.
At the beginning of each row of double crochets work 1 chain stitch, which replaces the first double crochet.

CHAIN STITCH:
If you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 treble crochet is wide.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
2 triangles are worked to start with, one for the right side and one for the left side. The 2 pieces are crocheted together, then the bottom section is worked downwards. A strap is worked on each triangle. The top opens mid-back and is closed with a twisted cord.

TRIANGLE:
Work 21-24-27-27-32-38 chain stitches with hook size 3 mm and DROPS Safran. Work as follows back and forth (row 1 = right side): Work 1 treble crochet in the 5th chain stitch from the hook (= 2 treble crochets) - read CROCHET INFORMATION, then 1 treble crochet in each of the next 15-18-21-21-26-32 chain stitches, work (2 treble crochets, 1 chain stitch, 2 treble crochets) in the last chain stitch on the row, rotate the piece and skip the first chain stitch (i.e., the chain stitch you just worked in), work 1 treble crochet in each of the 17-20-23-23-28-34 chain stitches on the other side of the row of chain stitches = 38-44-50-50-60-72 treble crochets + 1 chain stitch. Turn and continue back and forth with 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet on each side of the row of chain stitches, working (2 treble crochets, 1 chain stitch, 2 treble crochets) around the chain stitch at the top of the row. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! Work like this for a total of 11-12-13-14-14-15 rows of treble crochets, but on the last row adjust the stitch count so you have 40-44-48-52-56-64 treble crochets on each side of the chain stitch at the top (= 80-88-96-104-112-128 treble crochets). The piece measures approx. 7-7½-8-9-9-9½ cm from the row of chain stitches out.

Work 1 more triangle in the same way.

BOTTOM SECTION:
Work the 2 triangles together. NOTE: Make sure you work over both triangles from the right side!

Work 47-56-65-75-84-98 loose chain stitches, then 48-50-53-56-59-62 double crochets evenly spaced over the outermost treble crochets (i.e., along the bottom edge of one triangle), work 48-50-53-56-59-62 double crochets evenly spaced over the other treble crochets (along the bottom edge of the second triangle), then work 47-56-65-75-84-98 loose chain stitches at the end of the row = 190-212-236-262-286-320 stitches.
Work back and forth as follows:
Row 1 (wrong side): Work 1 treble crochet in each double crochet / chain stitch– remember CROCHET INFORMATION.
Row 2 (right side): Work 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet.
Row 3 (wrong side): * Work 1 treble crochet, 1 chain stitch, skip 1 treble crochet *, work from *-* until there are 2 treble crochets left, work 1 treble crochet in each of the 2 last treble crochets.
Row 4 (right side): Work 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet and 1 treble crochet around each chain stitch.
Row 5 (wrong side): Work 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet, AT THE SAME TIME increase 10-10-8-4-13-12 treble crochets evenly spaced = 200-222-244-266-299-332 treble crochets.
Work as follows: A.1 (= 1 treble crochet), A.2 over the next 198-220-242-264-297-330 treble crochets, A.3 (1 treble crochet). When A.1, A.2 and A.3 are finished in height, cut and fasten the strand.

STRAP:
Work 1 strap in the top of each triangle: Start at the top of the triangle, work 1 treble crochet in the treble crochet before the chain-space, 2 treble crochets around the chain-space and 1 treble crochet in the treble crochet after the chain-space = 4 treble crochets. Work these 4 treble crochets back and forth for 40-42-44-46-48-50 cm. Cut and fasten the strand. Try the top on and adjust the length of the strap if necessary – it is fastened to the top back edge.

CROCHET EDGE:
Start from the wrong side at the bottom of the right side of the back piece. Work as follows: 1 double crochet, * 3 chain stitches, skip 1½ cm, 1 double crochet *, work from *-* as far as the corner on the back piece, making sure you work a double crochet in the corner and the number of chain-spaces is divisible by 2 + 1, work * 3 chain stitches, skip 2 treble crochets, 1 double crochet *, work from *-* as far as the right triangle, making sure you work a double crochet in the corner and the number of chain-spaces is divisible by 2 + 1. Work to the top of the triangle and continue along the strap, finishing with 1 double crochet, making sure the number of chain-spaces is divisible by 2 + 1. At the top of the strap work as follows: 1 double crochet in the first treble crochet, 3 chain stitches, skip 2 treble crochets, 1 double crochet in the last treble crochet. Continue down the strap and down the other side of the right triangle (finishing with 1 double crochet, making sure the number of chain-spaces is divisible by 2 + 1), work 1 double crochet between the pieces. Continue in the same way along the left triangle and strap, then continue over the double crochets on the back piece (making sure the number of chain-spaces is divisible by 2 + 1), finish with 1 double crochet. Work * 3 chain stitches, skip 1½ cm, 1 double crochet *, work from *-* down the left side of the back piece, making sure you work a double crochet in the corner and the number of chain-spaces is divisible by 2+ 1. Turn.
ROW 2: Work 1 chain stitch + 1 slip stitch to the middle of the first chain-space, 1 double crochet around this chain-space, * work 5 treble crochets around the next chain-space, 1 double crochet around the next chain-space *, work from *-*. Cut and fasten the strand.

TWISTED CORD:
Cut 2 strands of 2.5 metres. Twist the strands together until they begin to resist, fold the cord double and it will continue to twist. Tie a knot in each end.
Start at the top mid-back and thread the ends of the cord through each side, then thread the ends back and forth across the opening – through the fan pattern, making sure the ends are of equal length at the bottom. Tie a bow.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew 2 buttons to the wrong side, top of each side at the back. Fasten each strap through a hole in the fan pattern.

Diagram

symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 1 double-treble crochet
symbols = 1 double crochet around chain-space
symbols = 1 double crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 treble crochet in double-treble crochet below or in stitch below
symbols = 1 treble crochet around chain-space
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (29)

country flag Odile Cazade wrote:

Bonjour Pour une taille S quelles sont les dimensions des triangles en hauteur et en largeur sans compter la bordure? Merci pour votre réponse

10.07.2024 - 15:13

country flag Francesca wrote:

Non riesco a capire il diagramma. Potete spiegarmi a parole? Almeno le prime 2/3 righe, così ingrano!

10.07.2024 - 12:04

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Francesca, in questa sede non possiamo spiegare i diagrammi riga per riga: i diagrammi si leggono dal basso verso l'alto e da destra verso sinistra per le righe di andata e ritorno. Buon lavoro!

10.07.2024 - 21:06

country flag Nathalie Cilibrazi wrote:

Bonjour, Je suis tricoteuse/crocheteuse professionnelle freelance, au service des particuliers, des marques et de la haute couture. J'aimerais pouvoir créer des modèles inédits pour votre site. Cela est-il possible ? Et si oui comment dois-je m'y prendre ? Je vous remercie par avance de votre réponse. Je vous souhaite un bel Eté. Bien cordialement. Nc

08.07.2024 - 14:56

country flag Marina wrote:

Fatto per una taglia 44, avendo lavorato con cotone più sottile e uncinetto del 2, ho seguito la misura L. Venuto perfetto, è molto bello e la ragazza che lo ha ricevuto contentissima! Grazie mille!!

07.07.2024 - 14:05

country flag Tanja Van Voorthuijsen wrote:

Goedemiddag, dank voor het mooie ontwerp. Ik heb alles in elkaar zitten, maar het lukt me niet om de rand er op te krijgen. Als ik begin aan de verkeerde kant van de onderkant van goede kant van het achterland. Is dit dan de eerste toer direct onder de driehoeken of de laatste toer van het achterpand? En haak ik 1ste toer van de rand dan aan de verkeerde kant en de tweede toer aan de goede kant? Hartelijke groet, Tanja

03.07.2024 - 17:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Tanja,

Het moest zijn '...op de onderkant van de rechter kant van het achterpand', in plaats van de goede kant. Er stond dus een foutje in de beschrijving en het is inmiddels aangepast. Hopelijk is het nu wel duidelijk.

04.07.2024 - 19:47

country flag Jeannette Van Geerenstein wrote:

Hallo Kunnen jullie voor mij a1 ,a2 en a3 uitschrijven ,ik kom er niet uit helaas Alvast bedankt

29.06.2024 - 16:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Jeanette,

Er is helaas alleen een telpatroon voor A.1, A.2 en A.3. Onder het kopje 'FAQ' kun je antwoord vinden op de vraag 'Hoe haak ik volgens een telpatroon?'. Hopelijk heb je hier wat aan.

30.06.2024 - 20:41

country flag Marie wrote:

Halloc wir verstehe ich das Diagramm richtig? Erste Reihe nur Stäbchen. 2. Reihe drei Luftmaschen, eine feste Masche, 5 Luftmaschen, eine feste Masche, drei Luftmaschen und eine Masche um den Luftmaschenbogen. (Aber welcher Bogen?) danke für die Hilfe!

19.06.2024 - 15:40

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Marie, ja genau, die 1. Reihe (ist eine Rückreihe) ist nur Stäbchen, dann häkeln Sie: 1 Luftmasche (A.1 = Anfang der Reihe), A.2 = *3 M überpsringen, 1 fM in die nächste M, 5 Lm, 3 M überspringen, 1 fM in die nächste M, 3 Lm, 3 M überspringen*, von *-* (= je über 11 M) wiederholen (es sind dann jeweils nur Luftmaschenbogen mit je 5 Luftmaschen), und 1 fM in das letzte Stb häkeln. Viel Spaß beim Häkeln!

19.06.2024 - 16:31

country flag Maria wrote:

Io non ho capito come iniziare il giro nella parta inferiore dopo aver fatto la riga di maglie alte.. come si inizia per fare i ponti nel cosiddetto "ventaglio"? Quante catenelle devo fare, e quanti punti devo saltare?

16.06.2024 - 18:31

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Maria, se abbiamo interpretato correttamente la sua richiesta, deve lavorare quanto riportato nella terza riga della parte inferiore. Buon lavoro!

16.06.2024 - 21:30

country flag Samuel Husband wrote:

Bonjour, Je viens de realiser que les arceaux devaient etre espacés de 6 mailles et non 3, donc autant pour moi

16.06.2024 - 10:59

country flag Samuel Husband wrote:

Bonjour, sur la taille m le point fantaisie ne tombe pas juste. J'ai bien compté 222 brides mais quand j'arrive au dernier arceau il ne reste que 2 mailles apres la derniere maille serrée. J'ai adapté en raccourcissant le premier arceau mais sur le deuxieme rang je me retrouve avec les 7 double brides sur l'avant dernier arceau, ce qui ne me permet pas de finir car je devrais plutoto avoir une maille serree pour pouvoir finir avec les 4 double brides non ?

15.06.2024 - 18:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Husband, les diagrammes doivent tomber juste, A.1 = 1 maille, répétez les 11 mailles de A.2 un total de 20 fois (11 x 20= 220) et A.3 dans la dernière maille = vous avez ainsi 1+220+1+222. Pensez à mettre des marqueurs/fils marqueurs entre chaque motif, ce sera plus simple de mieux vous repérer si besoin. Bon crochet!

17.06.2024 - 08:28