DROPS Daisy
DROPS Daisy
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Sand Diamond

Knitted jumper in DROPS Daisy or DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked top down with raglan, V-neck, lace pattern and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 248-6
DROPS Design: Pattern da-005
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS DAISY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
350-400-450-450-500-550 g colour 02, marzipan

Or use:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE (belongs to yarn group B)
350-400-450-500-550-600 g colour 50, light beige

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Daisy
DROPS Daisy
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows, from both the right and wrong side.
1 ridge in height = knit 2 rows.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge vertically = 2 rounds, i.e. knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side. See diagram for your size in A.1.

RIGHT BAND WITH I-CORD:
RIGHT SIDE:
Work 9 garter stitches, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.
WRONG SIDE:
Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1, 9 garter stitches.

LEFT BAND WITH I-CORD:
RIGHT SIDE:
Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1, 9 garter stitches.
WRONG SIDE:
Work 9 garter stitches, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, which is worked twisted on the next round/row. The new stitches are then worked in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-stitch as follows: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker-stitch, knit 2 together, knit 1 (= marker-stitch), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The pattern uses both long and short needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary.
The piece is started back and forth, top down. When the V-neck is finished, continue working in the round with circular needle.
Start by working 2 loose bands, then cast on stitches for the neckline between the bands and work the yoke back and forth. When the yoke is finished, divide for the body and sleeves. Continue the body in the round, while the sleeves wait. The sleeves are then worked in the round. The bands are sewn together mid-back, then sewn to the neckline.

RIGHT BAND (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 11 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm.
Work RIGHT BAND WITH I-CORD – read description above, back and forth for 4 cm.
Now knit together the first 2 stitches from the right side. Decrease like this every 3 cm a total of 5 times = 6 band stitches. Continue working until the band measures 21-21-21-23-23-23 cm, finishing after a row from the wrong side. Cut the strand and lay the piece to one side.

LEFT BAND (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 11 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm.
Work LEFT BAND WITH I-CORD – read description above, back and forth for 4 cm.
Now knit together the last 2 stitches from the right side. Decrease like this every 3 cm a total of 5 times = 6 band stitches. Continue working until the band measures 21-21-21-23-23-23 cm, finish after a row from the right side. Do not cut the strand.
Cast on 99-99-99-113-113-113 stitches at the end of the row, then work the 6 stitches from the right band = 111-111-111-125-125-125 stitches. Work 1 row from the wrong side, purling the 99-99-99-113-113-113 cast on stitches and working the 6 band-stitches on each side as before.

INFORMATION BEFORE CONTINUING:
Lace pattern is now worked on the front piece, first according to diagram A.1, then A.2, A.3 and A.4. Lace pattern is worked on the back piece according to diagrams A.2, A.3 and A.4. The increases for the V-neck and raglan are drawn into the diagrams. When A.2, A.3 and A.4 have been worked 1 time in height, work 1 more repeat of A.3 between A.2 and A.4.
The sleeves are worked in stocking stitch and increased as described under RAGLAN – read description above. The increases are inside 2 stocking stitches on each side of the sleeves and are worked every 2nd row 4-3-2-11-7-6 times, then every 4th row/round 10-13-13-12-14-17 times = 14-16-15-23-21-23 increases on each side of each sleeve.

YOKE:
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Work the first row as follows from the right side: 6 band stitches as before, A.1, work 2 GARTER STITCHES – read description above (= left front piece), knit 2, increase 1 stitch for RAGLAN - read description above, 20-20-20-22-22-22 stocking stitches, increase 1 stitch for raglan, knit 2 (= left sleeve), 2 garter stitches, A,2, A.3 over the next 20-20-20-30-30-30 stitches, A.4, 2 garter stitches (= back piece), knit 2, increase 1 stitch for raglan, 20-20-20-22-22-22 stocking stitches, increase 1 stitch for raglan, knit 2 (= right sleeve), 2 garter stitches, A.1, 6 band stitches as before (= right front piece). There are 9 stitches on each front piece, 26-26-26-28-28-28 stitches on each sleeve (including the yarn overs and 2 stocking stitches on each side) and 45-45-45-55-55-55 stitches on the back piece.

Continue this pattern and increase for raglan as described above. When A.1 has been worked 1 time in height, there are 39-39-39-49-49-49 stitches on each front piece and 75-75-75-85-85-85 stitches on the back piece. Cut the strand.
Continue in the round over all stitches.
Move the necessary stitches onto the right needle, without working them, until the beginning of the round is in the transition between the back piece and the right sleeve (between 2 garter stitches and 2 knitted stitches). Continue as follows: Knit and increase as before over the stitches on the right sleeve, work 2 garter stitches, 1 yarn over, work the first 33-33-33-43-43-43 stitches from the right front piece, place the next 4 stitches on an extra needle in front of the piece (= all stitches from the right front piece are now either worked or on the extra needle), knit the next 4 stitches together 2 and 2 (= first 4 stitches on the left front piece), knit together the first 2 stitches from the extra needle and knit the other 2 stitches (3 decreased stitches mid-front), work the next 33-33-33-43-43-43 stitches from the left front piece, make 1 yarn over, 2 garter stitches, work and increase as before over the left sleeve, 2 garter stitches, work A.2, A.3 over the next 50-50-50-60-60-60 stitches, A.4, work 2 garter stitches. The first round in A.2, A.3 and A.4 has been worked on the front and back pieces.

Start on round 2 in diagrams A.2, A.3 and A.4 and work in the round over all stitches as follows:
Knit and increase as before over the stitches on the right sleeve, work 2 GARTER STITCHES – read explanation above, A.2, A.3 over the next 50-50-50-60-60-60 stitches, A.4, 2 garter stitches, knit and increase as before over the stitches on the left sleeve, work 2 garter stitches, A.2, A.3 over the next 50-50-50-60-60-60 stitches, A.4, 2 garter stitches. Continue this pattern and increases until you have worked 1-2-2-1-1-2 repeats of A.2, A.3 and A.4 over A.1. There are now 85-95-95-105-105-115 stitches on the front/back pieces and 52-56-54-72-68-72 stitches on each sleeve, a total of 274-302-298-354-346-374 stitches. The yoke measures approx. 23-27-27-32-32-36 cm from the shoulder. Sizes M-L-XL-XXL and XXXL are finished; go to DIVIDE FOR BODY AND SLEEVES.

SIZE S:
Work 1 repeat in height without increasing as follows:
Knit the right sleeve, work 2 garter stitches, A.3 over the next 70 stitches, work the first stitch in A.3, 2 garter stitches, knit over the left sleeve, 2 garter stitches, A.3 over the next 70 stitches, work the first stitch in A.3, 2 garter stitches. The yoke measures approx. 27 cm from the shoulder.

DIVIDE FOR BODY AND SLEEVES – ALL SIZES:
Place the first 52-56-54-72-68-72 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 15-15-25-15-25-25 stitches under the sleeve, knit 85-95-95-105-105-115 (front piece), place the next 52-56-54-72-68-72 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 15-15-25-15-25-25 stitches under the sleeve, knit the last 85-95-95-105-105-115 stitches (back piece).

BODY:
200-220-240-240-260-280 stitches. Start with round 14-2-2-2-2-2 in A.5, and continue the pattern in the round until the body measures 16-18-20-16-18-16 cm, finishing after a whole or half repeat of A.5 in height.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1), AT THE SAME TIME increase 42-42-48-48-48-58 stitches evenly on round 1 = 242-262-288-288-308-338 stitches. When the rib measures 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm, cast off. The jumper measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm from the shoulder.

SLEEVES:
Place the 52-56-54-72-68-72 stitches from the thread on one side of the piece on circular needle size 4 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 15-15-25-15-25-25 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 67-71-79-87-93-97 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch of the 15-15-25-15-25-25 stitches under the sleeve – start the round just before this marker-stitch.
Work stocking stitch in the round. When the sleeve measures 3 cm from the division, decrease under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP, repeat this decrease when the sleeve measures 8-8-9-6-6-6 cm = 63-67-75-83-89-93 stitches. Work until the sleeve measures 15-16-17-12-13-10 cm from the division. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1), AT THE SAME TIME increase 13-13-15-17-19-19 stitches evenly on round 1 = 76-80-90-100-108-112 stitches. Cast off when the rib measures 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the bands together mid-back, then sew the bands to the neckline.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 28.02.2024
Pattern is updated. Explanation for right and left band with I-cord is udpated.
Updated online: 29.02.2024
The diagram A.2 is updated.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, which is knitted on the next row – leaves a hole
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over knitted-together stitches
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Suleika Van Zweeden wrote:

Aansluitend op het antwoord van mijn voorgaande vraag, dan zit er een fout in het patroon. Want bij XL moet je A3 over de volgende 30 steken steken breien bij de start , dus begin je al met 51 steken. Dan kan je na 1 herhaling van A2, A3 en A4, met 15 meerderingen nooit op 55 steken uitkomen, maar op 66 steken

08.04.2024 - 09:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Suleika,

Na 1 herhaling van A.2, A.3 en A.4 heb je in totaal 10 steken gemeerderd over die telpatronen en niet 15.

10.04.2024 - 09:42

country flag Sylvie Bérard wrote:

J’ai fait les deux bordures et monte les 99 m.; et les bords extérieurs sont avec le I cord ; c’est correct?

06.04.2024 - 20:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bérard, tout à fait, ces bordures i-cord vont continuer le long de l'encolure V. Bon tricot!

08.04.2024 - 07:58

country flag Suleika Van Zweeden wrote:

Hallo, ik heb geen antwoord gekregen, op mijn vraag waarom ik 95 steken heb aan het rugpand ipv 85 bij XL. Als je het diagram aanhoudt meerder je toch tot 95 steken voorraad het achterpand? Ik heb die vraag bij nog iemand zien staan, maar dat was in het Duits waarvan ik het antwoord niet begreep..

06.04.2024 - 15:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Suleika,

Nadat je de telpatronen 1 keer verticaal hebt gebreid, zijn er 55 steken op het achterpand. Brei deze steken + de telpatronen vervolgens nog 3 keer in de hoogte = 3 keer x 5 meerderingen aan elke kant = 30 steken in totaal gemeerderd meerderingen. Hiermee kom je op 85 steken in totaal.

07.04.2024 - 18:41

country flag Suleika Van Zweeden wrote:

Kunnen jullie het gedeelte van de pas verduidelijken van de 4 steken die op een extra naald aan de voorkant gezet moeten worden? Nadat je 43 ( XL) steken hebt gebreid van het rechtervoorpand. Ik heb op die plek 6 steken van de voorbies over en geen 4 en ik snap niet wat jullie bedoelen met een extra naald aan de voorkant? Ben geen beginnende breien, maar hier kom ik niet uit..

01.04.2024 - 20:14

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Suleika,

Je zet 4 steken op een hulpnaald (je zou hiervoor ook een kabelnaad kunnen gebruiken. Dan brei je de volgende 4 steken 2 aan 2 samen. Dan pak je weer de steken van de hulpnaald of kabelnaad. Hiervan brei je je 2 steken samen en de andere 2 steken brei je recht.

03.04.2024 - 20:46

country flag Suleika Van Zweeden wrote:

Hoe kan het dat ik voor maat XL, na diagram A1 1 x te hebben gebreid, 95 steken voor het achterpand heb ipv 85. Je blijft A4, A3 en A2 toch herhalen gedurende het hele A1 diagram? Dus dan moet je A3 toch uitbreiden?

01.04.2024 - 18:05

country flag Sri wrote:

Hi , I am trying this jumper (Size M) and encountered a problem while knitting first round of yoke. Initially we have 6 on both sides + 99 = 111. there are 4 increases, with that we have 115. However in A2(10) and A4(11) including a yarn over at the end. If i do that I am left with 2 extra stiches. because for A2 (9 + 1 from YO) A4(10+YO) but initially we had 111. so 2 stiches are left extra. could you please help me how to handle A2 and A4 first row YO?

28.03.2024 - 19:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sri, there are 111 sts and you work diagrams increasing as shown in diagrams + increase on sleeves a total of 16 times (3 times on every 2nd row +13 times on every 4th row/round). On very first row you only increase on sleeve + in A.2 and in A.4, not in A.1 where increases for diagrams start with 3rd row (= you increase a total of 6 sts: 2 sts on each sleeve + 1 stitch on each A.2/A.4), then just continue increasing as shown in diagrams. Hope this can help and that I didn't misunderstand your question. Happy knitting!

02.04.2024 - 13:56

country flag Ksenya wrote:

Hello! I’m having a hard time picturing the structure of the sweater. I finished the right and left bands and did the 99 cast on stitches. But where does this neckline part of the sweater get joined? Which part eventually becomes the “v” part of the v neck - the center of those cast on stitches or the foundation stitches of the right and left bands? I watched the tutorial videos but it’s still confusing. Thank you!

26.03.2024 - 23:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ksenya, after you join the bands (wich will be later sewn together and sewn on to the neckine on the back), you continue to knit the bands' stitches with garter stitch and increase stitches to shape the V neck (and the raglans at the same time). After you inrease enough stitches to the V neckine, you join the two fronts. I hope this helps. Happy Knitting.

27.03.2024 - 10:05

country flag Camilla wrote:

Jag får inte bakstyckets maskantal att stämma. A2, A3 över de nästa 20 maskorna, A4 (11 maskor) Detta blir 31 maskor med ökningarna 2+2 är det 35 maskor o det borde vara 45?

22.03.2024 - 09:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Camilla. Du stickar såhär: 2m rätstickning, A.2 (=10 m), 20 m A.3 (=A.3 x2), A.4 (=11 m), 2 m rätstickning. 2+10+20+11+2 = 45 m. Mvh DROPS Design

22.03.2024 - 09:56

country flag Romana Meißner wrote:

Guten Tag! Ich stricke Größe XL und komme bei der Passe beim Rückenteil bei den Zunahmen auf 10 Maschen mehr als in der Beschreibung angegeben. Es steht: Wenn A.2, A.3 und A.4 1 x in der Höhe gestrickt wurden, 1 Rapport mehr von A.3 zwischen A.2 und A.4 stricken. Wenn A.1 1 x in der Höhe gestrickt wurde, sind 39-39-39-49-49-49 Maschen pro Vorderteil und 75-75-75-85-85-85 Maschen für das Rückenteil vorhanden..Ich komme auf 95 Maschen! Grüße Romana Meißner

16.03.2024 - 13:36

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Meißner, nach den Diagrammen 1 Mal in der Höhe gestrickt wurden, gab es 55 Maschen, dann stricken Sie diese +Diagramme noch 3 Mal in der Höhe = 3 Mal x 5 Zunahmen = 15 Zunahmen (und insgesamt 4 Mal 12 Reihen = 48 Reihen wie in A.1); und so hat man: 2 M. Krausrechts + 15 M A.2 + 50 M A.3 + 16 M A.3 + 2 M Krausrechts = 85 M. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

18.03.2024 - 08:45

country flag Joelle TAN wrote:

Bon jour en lisant l'explication de ce model, que veut dire : AVEC I-CORD ? serait il possible de mettre en video la mise en place des bordure avec le dos et les devant ? merci

08.03.2024 - 11:42

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Tan, les 2 mailles I-cord des bordures des devants se tricotent comme on le montre dans cette vidéo en début/en fin de rang, pour la bordure d'encolure des devants. Bon tricot!

08.03.2024 - 13:39