DROPS Daisy
100% Wool
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DROPS Buttons
Coconut No. 515

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.50£.

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Red Sunrise Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Daisy. The piece is worked top down with raglan, relief-pattern, split in sides and I-cord. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 248-9

#redsunrisecardigan

DROPS Design: Pattern da-002
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS DAISY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-700-800 g colour 20, red

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 515: 5-5-6-6-6-6 items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern from the right side.

BANDS WITH I-CORD:
START OF ROW:
Work the band as follows: Slip 1 stitch purl-wise, with yarn in front, knit 1, work 6 garter stitches.
END OF ROW:
Work the band as follows: Work until there are 8 stitches left on the row, work 6 garter stitches, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with yarn in front, knit 1.
Work in the same way from both the right and wrong side.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, which is worked twisted on the next row to avoid a hole.

RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch before/after A.1, in each transition between body and sleeves.
Increase by making 1 yarn over, which is worked as follows on the next row (wrong side).
BEFORE A.1:
Purl the back loop, no hole.
AFTER A.1:
Slip the yarn-over off the left needle and replace it the other way round (insert the left needle through the back when replacing it). Purl the front loop. No hole.

DECREASE TIP-1 (for sides of body):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease on each side of the body, on both sides of the stocking stitch section between A.1 on the front and back pieces:
Begin straight after A.1 on the left front piece, slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, work until there are 2 stitches left before the next A.1, knit 2 together.
Repeat on the other side of the body (4 stitches decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 5 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the strand in front, knit 1. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked on the first row from the right side after the neck. The other 4-4-5-5-5-5 buttonholes are then worked with approx. 10-11-9-9-9½-10 cm between each one. The bottom buttonhole is worked in the transition between the stocking stitch and rib.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The pattern uses both long and short circular needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary.
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle, while the sleeves wait. The body is divided for the split in each side and the front and back pieces are then finished separately. The sleeves are worked in the round, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 125-127-133-141-143-149 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and DROPS Daisy. Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Work as follows from the right side: 8 BAND STITCHES WITH I-CORD – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from*-* until there are 9 stitches left, knit 1 and 8 band stitches with I-cord. Continue this rib for 4 cm.
Insert 1 marker inside one band. The yoke is measured from this marker.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work the first row from the right side as follows: 8 band stitches as before, 8-8-10-10-10-12 stocking stitches and increase 0-0-0-1-1-2 stitches evenly over these stitches – read INCREASE TIP, work A.1 (left front piece), 21 stocking stitches and increase 2-2-2-4-4-4 stitches evenly over these stitches (sleeve), work A.1, 15-17-19-19-21-23 stocking stitches and increase 0-0-0-2-2-4 stitches evenly over these stitches, work A.1 (back piece), 21 stocking stitches and increase 2-2-2-4-4-4 stitches evenly over these stitches (sleeve), work A.1, 8-8-10-10-10-12 stocking stitches and increase 0-0-0-1-1-2 stitches evenly over these stitches, 8 band stitches as before (right front piece). Remember the BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above = 129-131-137-153-155-165 stitches.
Work back from the wrong side with 8 band stitches as before, stocking stitch and A.1 in each transition between the body and sleeves (remember the yarn overs are worked twisted to avoid holes).
Continue the pattern and begin to increase for RAGLAN – read description above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Increase for raglan on each side of each A.1 (8 increased stitches) every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of 5-6-10-13-12-11 times = 169-179-217-257-251-253 stitches.

Continue increasing for raglan, but every 2nd increase is only on the front and back pieces, i.e., increase on the front and back pieces every 2nd row and on the sleeves every 4th row (alternately 4 and 8 stitches increased). Increase like this 24-26-24-22-26-30 times on the front and back pieces (12-13-12-11-13-15 times on the sleeves).
After the last increase there are 313-335-361-389-407-433 stitches and the yoke measures approx. 21-23-24-25-27-29 cm from the marker.

Now divide for the body and sleeves: Work 54-57-61-65-68-74 stitches as before (front piece), place the next 57-61-67-73-75-77 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-16-18-20 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 91-99-105-113-121-131 stitches (back piece), place the next 57-61-67-73-75-77 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-16-18-20 stitches (in side under sleeve), work the last 54-57-61-65-68-74 stitches as before (front piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. The piece is now measured from here.

BODY:
= 219-233-251-275-293-319 stitches. Insert 1 marker-thread 59-62-67-73-77-84 stitches in from each side, with 101-109-117-129-139-151 stitches between the marker-threads on the back piece. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they are used to mark the split in each side.
Work stocking stitch with 8 band stitches as before on each side, continuing A.1 on the front and back pieces and working the 10-10-12-16-18-20 cast-on stitches under each sleeve in stocking stitch.
When the body measures 6 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches on each side – read DECREASE TIP-1. Repeat the decrease when the body measures 12 cm = 211-225-243-267-285-311 stitches.
Work until the body measures 20-20-21-21-21-21 cm, finishing after a row from the wrong side. Now divide at each marker-thread and finish each piece separately.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 57-60-65-71-75-82 stitches. Work 1 row as before from the right side and increase 7-10-8-10-9-9 stitches evenly between the band and A.1 and 2-2-3-3-4-5 stitches evenly between A.1 and the marker-thread – remember INCREASE TIP = 66-72-76-84-88-96 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm.
Work as follows from the wrong side: Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the strand in front, knit 1, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 8 stitches left, work 8 band stitches as before (the rib should neatly match the stitches in A.1). Continue this rib back and forth for 6 cm (the outermost 2 stitches towards the side are worked in the same way as the band stitches without the garter stitches). Cast off. The jacket measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 57-60-65-71-75-82 stitches. Work 1 row as before from the right side and increase 2-2-3-3-4-5 stitches evenly between the marker-thread in the side and A.1 and 7-10-8-10-9-9 stitches evenly between A.1 and the band = 66-72-76-84-88-96 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm.
Work as follows from the wrong side: 8 band stitches as before, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the strand in front, knit 1. Continue this rib back and forth for 6 cm. Cast off.

BACK PIECE:
= 97-105-113-125-135-147 stitches. Work 1 row as before from the right side and increase 2-2-3-3-4-5 stitches on each side between the marker-threads and A.1 and 16-18-18-20-18-20 stitches evenly between each A.1 = 117-127-137-151-161-177 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm.
Work as follows from the wrong side: Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the strand in front, knit 1, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the strand in front, knit 1. Continue this rib back and forth for 6 cm (the outermost 2 stitches on each side are worked in the same way as the band stitches, without the garter stitches). Cast off.

SLEEVES:
Place the 57-61-67-73-75-77 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-16-18-20 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 67-71-79-89-93-97 stitches. Insert a marker-thread in the middle of the 10-10-12-16-18-20 stitches under the sleeve. Start at the marker-thread and work stocking stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 4-4-4-3-2-2 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this every 7-5½-3½-2½-2½-2 cm a total of 5-6-9-13-14-15 times = 57-59-61-63-65-67 stitches.
Work until the sleeve measures 39-38-37-37-36-34 cm from the division. There is 6 cm left. Try the jacket on and work to desired length before the rib.
Knit 1 round and increase 11-11-13-13-13-13 stitches evenly spaced = 68-70-74-76-78-80 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 6 cm. Cast off. The sleeve measures approx. 45-44-43-43-42-40 cm from the division.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= purl from right side, knit from wrong side

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (10)

Adel18 wrote:

Creo que hay un error en el reparto de los puntos para el canesu. No coinciden con los del cuello. Gracias.

16.01.2025 - 19:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Adel18, ¿puedes indicar qué talla estás trabajando? El número de pts es correcto, por ejemplo, para la talla S: tienes 8 pts de la cenefa, 8 pts en pt jersey, A.1 (= 9 pts), 21 pts en pt jersey, A.1 (= 9 pts), 15 pts en pt jersey, A.1 (= 9 pts), 21 pts en pt jersey, A.1 (= 9 pts), 9 pts en pt jersey, 8 pts de la cenefa. Esos son 125 pts, más los 2 pts aumentados en cada sección de 21 pts = 129 pts. Por lo tanto, el número inicial sin aumentos debería coincidir con el cuello y luego le añades los aumentos para llegar al número indicado para el canesú. Recuerda que A.1 son 9 pts para las 3 primeras tallas y 11 para las tallas grandes.

19.01.2025 - 15:47

D Hansen wrote:

Hej Drops. Hvis jeg følger fremgangsmåden til halskant, får jeg ikke rib, men perlestrik. Er der en fejl i opskriften? Starten af forkant med I-cord strikes over 8 masker, dernæst (r,v) indtil 9 masker tilbage, dernæst 1 r og I-cord over 8 masker. Alle pinde skal strikkes på samme måde. Skal der mon i stedet gøres noget andet på efter I-cord på næste pind - den retmaske fra omgangen før, der ligger mellem (r,v) og I-cord? Eller hvad er løsningen?

05.12.2024 - 12:14

Hei D. Du strikker de 8 stolpemaskene med i-cord som forklart øverst i oppskriften (de 2 først og de 2 siste maskene strikkes i-cord, men de 6 andre maskene strikkes rett, både fra retten og fra vrange). Når du skal strikke vrangborden fra vrangen strikker du vrangmasker over vrangmasker og rettmasker over rettmasker, slik du får en vrangbord. Skal ikke bli perlestrikk. mvh DROPS Design

09.12.2024 - 13:11

Monique wrote:

J'ai du mal à comprendre la séparation qui est faite après l'empiècement pourriez-vous svp me préciser ce que vous entendez dans prendre les aiguilles 3 alors que tout l'empiècement est tricoté au 4 ? et la suite de votre explication. merci

30.11.2024 - 12:58

Bonjour Monique, pour ce gilet, on a une fente sur les côtés, ainsi, après 20-21 cm après l'empiècement, on termine chaque partie séparément en commençant par le devant gauche, on va d'abord augmenter à intervalles réguliers puis continuer en côtes avec les aiguilles 3. Bon tricot!

02.12.2024 - 08:49

Tina wrote:

Utrolig dårlig kvalitet, nupper helt ekstremt. Votter i dette garnet ser fullstendig tovet ut etter en måneds veldig forsiktig bruk av en voksen dame , og de ble brukt mest til pynt egentlig. Lille skjerfet gikk det litt bedre med, men vil absolutt ikke anbefale garnet til noen som helst plagg som skal brukes fremfor å bli utstilt . Nylaget ser det veldig flott ut. Men i bruk er det ikke.

15.11.2024 - 14:02

Hanne wrote:

Når jeg er færdig med udtagningerne på bærestykket måler det ikke de højde cm det skal selvom min strikkefasthed er rigtig. Skal jeg så ikke bare blive ved uden udtagning til det ønskede antal cm?

13.07.2024 - 16:17

Hej Hanne. Ja sticka då vidare uden udtagning till önskat antal cm. Mvh DROPS Design

18.07.2024 - 11:04

Daniela wrote:

Buongiorno, ho due domande a proposito del collo. Cosa significa " lavorare 1 ferro rovescio DAL ROVESCIO del lavoro"? Posso montare meno maglie per fare in modo che il bordo del collo non si allenti? Grazie

18.06.2024 - 09:16

Buongiorno Daniela, il modello è lavorato in piano, deve avviare le maglie, girare il lavoro e lavorare a rovescio sul rovescio del lavoro. Può apportare le modifiche che preferisce al modello. Buon lavoro!

18.06.2024 - 16:48

Catherine wrote:

For pattern 248-9, please clarify: 1. The buttonhole should be made at the beginning of the row when work at right side (for female), 2. For yoke, after the collar band is worked, when dividing the front (right), then sleeve, body , sleeve & front(left) when work from the right side. Thank you very much.

19.02.2024 - 08:18

Dear Catherine, as this jacket is worked top down you start with left front piece and end with right front piece from right side, that's why the buttonholes will be worked at the end of a row from RS. The first row on yoke including increases worked evenly and first row in A.1 is worked from the right side. Happy knitting!

19.02.2024 - 09:56

Pia wrote:

Super super flot🌸

15.02.2024 - 19:45

Margarete wrote: