Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= knit | |
= purl | |
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over | |
= knit 3 together | |
= begin on this round | |
= sew sleeve cap to armhole as follows: Sew a against A and b against B. |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Simplicity |
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Knitted jumper in DROPS Alpaca. Piece is knitted bottom up in stocking stitch with V-neck. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS 236-38 |
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---------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN: ---------------------------------------------------------- PATTERN: See diagram A.1. GARTER STITCH (back and forth): Knit all rows. 1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows. DECREASE TIP (applies to decreases for V-neck): All decreases are done from the right side! DECREASE AT BEGINNING OF ROW: Knit 4, slip 1 stitch over to right needle knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked. DECREASE AT END OF ROW: Work until 6 stitches remain, knit 2 together, knit 4. INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeves): Knit 1 past marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit until 1 stitch remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over. On next row knit yarn overs twisted. ---------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ---------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: Worked in the round on circular needle, from the bottom and up to armholes. Then divide the piece for back piece and front piece, and work parts back and forth on circular needle separately. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle up to where sleeve cap begins, then work back and forth on circular needle. BODY: Cast on 282-306-330-360-396-432 stitches on circular needle size 2.5 mm with DROPS Alpaca. Work rib (knit 1/purl 1) over all stitches When piece measures 4½ cm, work A.1 over all stitches. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue with knit over knit and purl over purl until piece measures 8 cm. On next round knit and decrease 42-46-50-52-56-64 stitches evenly = 240-260-280-308-340-368 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Work in stocking stitch in the round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm, cast off for armholes as follows: Work 119-127-135-145-156-169 stitches, cast off 2-6-10-18-28-30 stitches, work 118-124-130-136-142-154 stitches and cast off 2-6-10-18-28-30 stitches (i.e. the last 1-3-5-9-14-15 stitches on round and the first 1-3-5-9-14-15 stitches on next round) = 118-124-130-136-142-154 stitches on each front piece/back piece. Now finish each part separately. BACK PIECE: Continue back and forth in stocking stitch. When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm, cast off the middle 26-26-30-30-32-34 stitches for neck (46-49-50-53-55-60 stitches remain on each shoulder). Finish each shoulder separately. On next row from the neck cast off 1 stitch for neck = 45-48-49-52-54-59 stitches. Cast off when piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm. Work the other shoulder the same way. FRONT PIECE: = 118-124-130-136-142-154 stitches. Work in stocking stitch. When piece measures 34-36-37-39-40-41 cm, divide front piece and decrease for V-neck on next row from right side as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 54-57-60-63-66-72 stitches, slip 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle, knit 54-57-60-63-66-72 stitches and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Turn and work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch and 58-61-64-67-70-76 stitches in stocking stitch, turn (59-62-65-68-71-77 stitches on each shoulder). Finish each shoulder separately. Continue back and forth in stocking stitch and decrease for neck - read DECREASE TIP, as follows: Decrease 1 stitch every 4th row 4-4-6-6-8-9 times in total then 1 stitch every 6th row 5-5-5-5-4-4 times in total = 50-53-54-57-59-64 stitches. Work until piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm. On next row from shoulder, cast off the first 45-48-49-52-54-59 stitches = 5 stitches remain. Work in stocking stitch over these 5 stitches for approx. 7-7-8-8-8-9 cm. Cast off. Work the other shoulder the same way. SLEEVES: Cast on 90-90-90-96-96-102 stitches on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with DROPS Alpaca. Work rib (purl 1/knit 1). When piece measures 4½ cm, work A.1 over all stitches. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue with knit over knit and purl over purl until piece measures 8 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Continue piece in stocking stitch. On first round decrease 18-16-16-18-18-22 stitches evenly = 72-74-74-78-78-80 stitches. Insert a marker thread at beginning of round (mid under sleeve). Move the marker thread upwards when working - marker thread should be used for increase mid under sleeve. When sleeve measures 16-18-16-16-16-13 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 3-2½-2-2-1½-1½ cm 11-12-15-16-18-20 times in total = 94-98-104-110-114-120 stitches. When sleeve measures 49-49-48-47-44-43 cm, divide piece at the marker thread and work back and forth on circular needle until finished measurements. Work until sleeve measures approx. 50-50-50-50-49-49 cm, i.e. there is a vent of 1-1-2-3-5-6 cm at the top of sleeve. Work the other sleeve the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams inside cast-off edges. Sew vent at the top of sleeve to bottom of armhole. Then sew sleeve into body - see chart. Sew the 5 stitches on each front piece together and sew them to neck line on back piece. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (13)
DOMINIQUE AMBROSET wrote:
Bonjour Pour faire les manches j'ai pris deux aiguilles droites, faut il que je fasse aussi la fente à 47 cm et finir chaque côté jusqu'à 50 cm Merci pour votre réponse Mme AMBROSET
10.04.2024 - 17:50DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Ambroset, si vous avez choisi de tricoter les manches en allers et retours, placez un marqueur à 47 cm de hauteur totale (repère pour la couture de la tête de manche) et tricotez encore 3 cm (jusqu'à 50 cm de hauteur totale). Assemblez ensuite la manche comme dans le schéma + faites la couture sous la manche. Bon tricot!
11.04.2024 - 07:05DOMINIQUE AMBROSET wrote:
Bonjour les manches se tricotent elles avec 4 aiguilles doubles pointes ? si ou je ne sais pas faire est il possible de les faire avec 2 aiguilles 2.5 et 3.5 et je ferai une couture Merci pour votre réponse. Mme AMBROSET
30.03.2024 - 17:54DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Ambroset, vous pouvez aussi tricoter les manches en rond, avec la technique du magic loop ou bien en rangs, montez alors 1 m lisière en plus de chaque côté pour les coutures (plus d'infos ici). Bon tricot!
02.04.2024 - 14:35DOMINIQUE AMBROSET wrote:
Bonjour Je ne comprends pas le devant pour l'encolure, faut il que je fasse les 4 mailles sur l'aiguille annexe à chaque rang, le nombre ne correspond pas. et en même temps je dois diminuer pour les épaules. Merci pour vos explications. Mme AMBROSET
26.02.2024 - 17:56DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Ambroset, la division pour l'encolure V se fait via une torsade sur les 8 mailles centrales, ainsi vous tricotez les 55-73 premières mailles (cf taille), vous mettez les 4 m suivantes en attente sur une aiguille à torsades, tricotez les 4 mailles suivantes à l'endroit = devant gauche; vous tricotez maintenant le devant droit: tricotez les 4 mailles sur l'aiguille à torsades et terminez le rang, vous tricotez maintenant le devant droit en diminuant pour l'encolure puis rabattez les mailles de l'épaule comme indiqué, tricotez encore les 5 dernières mailles pour la bordure d'encolure, et reprenez le devant gauche pour le tricoter de la même façon. Bon tricot!
27.02.2024 - 08:02Lorelie wrote:
The simplicity drops pattern in the ribbing it has knit 3 together vertically, I believe it’s a decorative stitch. I would like a tutorial on how to do that. I would know how to knit 3 together but not vertically and also how to continue with the ribbing. Thank you, Lorelie
13.06.2023 - 16:34DROPS Design answered:
Dear Lorelie, the first row of A.1 is worked: *P1, K1, P1,K1,P1,K1* (over 6 sts), on 2nd row work: *P1, YO, K3 tog (see this video, time code 0:20), YO, P1, K1*, repeat from *-*. On next row work rib as on first row. And repeat the last 2 rows one more time. Happy knitting!
14.06.2023 - 07:25DOMINIQUE AMBROSET wrote:
Bonjour Une fois que j'ai monté mes mailles sur l'aiguille circulaire il ne faut pas que mes mailles tournent. Quand je veux les mettre toutes dans le même sens, arrivée au début de mes mailles je suis obligée de tourner mon tricot et cela tourne mes mailles Comment faire pour que cela ne tourne pas ? Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse Mme AMBOSET
14.05.2023 - 17:05DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Ambroset, avant de tricoter la 1ère maille du tour, placez bien toutes vos mailles dans le même sens pour ne pas former de vrille, vérifiez le cas échéant encore une fois avant de tricoter la dernière maille (vous pourrez alors corriger toute vrille éventuelle) - votre magasin a peut-être une astuce qu'il saura vous partager (même par mail ou téléphone), c'est la technique que j'utilise personnellement. Bon tricot!
15.05.2023 - 08:50Houarner wrote:
Bonjour Est-il possible de tricoter ce modèle avec des aiguilles droites ?
07.03.2023 - 16:26DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Houarner, tout à fait, cette leçon pourra vous aider à faire les ajustements nécessaires. Bon tricot!
07.03.2023 - 16:30Delphine Roland wrote:
Bonjour Comment coudre ensemble les 43 mailles rabattues du devant avec les 48 du dos pour les épaules? Je n'arrive pas à comprendre pourquoi il n'y a pas le même nombre.... Merci
05.11.2022 - 15:43DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Roland, les diminutions de l'encolure ont été corrigées, merci pour votre retour. Bon tricot!
18.11.2022 - 13:29Mary Luz wrote:
La manga se teje en redondo o es en patrón plano, gracias espero me aclaren esta duda.
02.10.2022 - 19:33DROPS Design answered:
Hola Mari Luz, la manga se trabaja en redondo. Tambíen puedes trabajar de ida y vuelta y después coser en el centro bajo la manga; en este caso tienes que añadir a cada lado 1 punto de orillo extra (para la costura) y los aumentos se trabajan antes y después del punto orillo.
04.10.2022 - 15:15Lesley Albutt wrote:
Thank you for your reply to my question about the neckline. That is how I read the pattern as you have explained. However the photo doesn't appear to show a 4 over 4 cable? On the neckline.
29.09.2022 - 08:59DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Albutt, the cable is worked just at the bottom of V-neck, stitches are crossed as front piece is divided into 2 pieces, that might be the reason why it's quite discreet on the picture. Happy knitting!
29.09.2022 - 12:04Lesley Albutt wrote:
I am finding the explanation for knitting the neckline confusing. Can we please have a diagram or a close up picture. I am a machine knitter and will need to translate, but first I need to thoroughly understand the hand knitting technique. Many thanks.
29.09.2022 - 06:49DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Albutt, after you have crossed the stitches in the middle of the row, you continue each side separately and decrease for the V-neck as explained under DECREASE TIP (applies to decreases for V-neck): as follows (see your size): 1 stitch every 6th row 3 times then 1 stitch every 4th row 9 or 10 times (see size) and 1 stitch every other row 2-2-3-3-4-5 times - decrease at the beginning of a row from RS on right shoulder /at the end of a row from RS on left shoulder (when garment is worn). Hope it can help. Happy knitting!
29.09.2022 - 08:47