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Hortense Top by DROPS Design
Crocheted short-sleeve jumper in DROPS Cotton Merino. The piece is worked bottom up with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.
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Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
MATERIALS:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
350-400-400-450-500-550 g colour 05, powder pink
CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 MM.
CROCHET TENSION:
18 treble crochets in width and 9 rows in height = 10 cm.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Cotton Merino 50% Wool, 50% Cotton |
from 3.40 £ /50g | Order | ||||
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DROPS Needles & Hooks | Order | |||||
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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CHAIN STITCH:
If you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 double/treble crochet is wide.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
CROCHET INFORMATION:
At the beginning of each row of treble crochets work 3 chain stitches (replaces the first treble crochet), i.e. skip the last stitch on the previous row. Work the last treble crochet of the row in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the previous row.
DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 treble crochet by working 2 treble crochets together:
* Make 1 yarn over, insert the hook through the next stitch, pick up the strand, make 1 yarn over and pull it through the first 2 loops on the hook *, work from *-* 1 more time, make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops on the hook.
Decrease 2 treble crochets by working 3 treble crochets together:
* Make 1 yarn over, insert the hook through the next stitch, pick up the strand, make 1 yarn over and pull it through the first 2 loops on the hook *, work from *-* 2 more times, make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 4 loops on the hook.
INCREASE TIP (for sides):
Increase by working 2 treble crochets in the same stitch. The increased stitches are worked in treble crochets.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JUMPER ¬– SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The front and back pieces are worked separately, back and forth, then sewn together. Stitches are worked around the armholes, then the sleeves worked back and forth, top down.
BACK PIECE:
Work 75-83-89-99-107-119 CHAIN STITCHES – read description above, with hook size 4 mm and DROPS Cotton Merino. Work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook (2 treble crochets) – read CROCHET INFORMATION, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 71-79-85-95-103-115 chain stitches = 73-81-87-97-105-117 stitches. Work back with 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet.
Then work pattern as follows:
1 treble crochet in each of the first 4-3-6-6-5-6 treble crochets, A.1 a total of 6-7-7-8-9-10 times, A.2 and 1 treble crochet in each of the last 4-3-6-6-5-6 treble crochets.
Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
When the piece measures 8 cm, decrease 1 treble crochet on each side – read DECREASE TIP = 71-79-85-95-103-115 stitches.
Repeat the decrease when the piece measures 12 cm = 69-77-83-93-101-113 stitches.
When the piece measures 15 cm, increase 1 treble crochet on each side – read INCREASE TIP!
Increase like this every 6-6½-4½-7½-5-5 cm a total of 3-3-4-3-4-4 times = 75-83-91-99-109-121 stitches.
When the piece measures 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm, cast off for the armholes as described below, cutting the strand and making sure the next row is a row of treble crochets:
Skip the first 4-5-5-6-7-9 stitches for the armhole, fasten the strand with 1 slip stitch in the next treble crochet, work 3 chain stitches (first treble crochet), work 2-2-3-3-3-3 treble crochets together, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 8-6-9-7-16-15 treble crochets, A.1 a total of 4-5-5-6-5-6 times, work A.2, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 8-6-9-7-16-15 treble crochets, work 2-2-3-3-3-3 treble crochets together and 1 treble crochet in the last stitch, turn (do not work the last 4-5-5-6-7-9 treble crochets) = 65-71-77-83-91-99 stitches.
Continue the pattern back and forth, working 2-2-3-3-3-3 treble crochets together on each side every row a total of 2-4-2-3-5-7 times (including the first decrease when you skipped stitches for the armholes), then work 0-0-2-2-2-2 treble crochets together on each side of each row a total of 0-0-3-3-2-1 times = 63-65-67-69-71-73 stitches.
Continue the pattern over the middle stitches and 1 treble crochet in each of the outermost treble crochets on each side.
When the piece measures 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm, continue with treble crochets; finish the lace pattern if necessary.
When the piece measures 45-47-49-51-53-55 cm, work the neck as follows:
1 treble crochet in each of the first 16-17-17-18-18-19 stitches, work 2 treble crochets together, turn = 17-18-18-19-19-20 stitches on the shoulder.
Work 1 treble crochet in each stitch until the piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm. Cut and fasten the strand.
Work the other shoulder as follows:
Skip the middle 27-27-29-29-31-31 stitches for the neck, work 2 treble crochets together, 1 treble crochet in each of the last 16-17-17-18-18-19 treble crochets. Work 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet until the piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm. Cut and fasten the strand.
FRONT PIECE:
Work in the same way as the back until the piece measures 39-41-42-44-45-47 cm = 63-65-67-69-71-73 stitches.
Work the neck as follows:
Work as before over the first 19-20-21-22-23-24 stitches (only work lace pattern where it fits in width; the other stitches are worked with treble crochets), work 2 treble crochets together (first decrease for neck) = 20-21-22-23-24-25 stitches.
Decrease 1 stitch for the neck on each row 4-4-5-5-6-6 times = 17-18-18-19-19-20 stitches on the shoulder. When the piece measures 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm, continue with treble crochets; finish the lace pattern if necessary.
Work 1 treble crochet in each stitch until the piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm. Cut and fasten the strand.
Work the other shoulder in the same way, working the last 21-22-23-24-25-26 stitches from the right side.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew one shoulder seam and both the side seams.
NECK:
ROW 1: Work 1 double crochet around the first row after the shoulder seam, work * 2 chain stitches, skip 1 cm, 1 double crochet *, work from *-* around the neck and finish with 1 double crochet around the last row on the shoulder.
ROW 2: Work 2 double crochets around each chain-space.
Cut and fasten the strand.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the other shoulder seam.
SLEEVES:
Work an edge around the armhole as follows:
Fasten the strand with 1 double crochet in the stitch by the side seam, * work 1 chain stitch, skip 1 stitch, 1 double crochet in the next stitch *, work from *-* over the stitches under the sleeve, then work up the armhole as follows: * 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet around the next row *, work from *-* around the armhole and down to the bottom of the armhole, work the final stitches under the sleeve in the same way as the first stitches. Finish with 1 double crochet in the last stitch. Make sure your work does not tighten the armhole; work extra chain stitches between each double crochet if necessary = approx. 38-41-43-46-49-53 chain-spaces. Cut the strand.
The sleeve cap is worked back and forth over more and more chain-spaces until you have worked all the chain-spaces.
Work as follows from the right side: Start in the 5th chain stitch from the shoulder seam from the right side, work 1 double crochet around the chain-space, 2 treble crochets around the next chain stitch (up towards the shoulder seam), work 2 treble crochets around each of the next 7 chain stitches and finish with 1 slip stitch around the next chain-space = 16 treble crochets. Turn and work as follows from the wrong side:
3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch around the next chain-space, 2 treble crochets in each treble crochet and finish with 1 slip stitch around the next chain-space on the other side of the sleeve = 32 treble crochets.
Turn. Work 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch around the next chain-space, 2 treble crochets in the first treble crochet, 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet until there is 1 treble crochet left, 2 treble crochets in the next treble crochet and finish with 1 slip stitch around the next chain-space = 34 treble crochets.
Continue like this and increase 1 treble crochet on each side a total of 5-6-8-9-10-12 times = 42-44-48-50-52-56 stitches. There remain now approx. 16-17-15-16-17-17 chain-spaces.
On the next row work alternately 1 and 2 treble crochets around the last chain-spaces down to the side seam. Turn and work 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet and alternately 1 and 2 treble crochets around the remaining chain-spaces on the other side of the sleeve = 66-69-70-74-77-81 treble crochets. On the next row adjust the number of stitches to 62-65-68-74-77-81 stitches.
Continue back and forth with 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet.
When the sleeve measures 3 cm at the shortest point, decrease 1-1-1-1-0-0 treble crochets on each side. Decrease like this every 3-4-7-0-0-0 cm a total of 4-3-2-1-0-0 times = 54-59-64-72-77-81 stitches.
Continue back and forth with 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet until the sleeve measures 15-15-14-14-13-12 cm at the shortest point. Cut and fasten the strand.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.
Sew the sleeve seams.
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s..
Back piece: ... When the piece measures 45-47-49-51-53-55 cm, work the neck as follows:
1 treble crochet in each of the first 16-17-17-18-18-19 stitches, work 2 treble crochets together, turn = 17-18-18-19-19-20 stitches on the shoulder.
Work 1 treble crochet in each stitch until the piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm. Cut and fasten the strand.
Work the other shoulder as follows:
Skip the middle 27-27-29-29-31-31 stitches for the neck, work 2 treble crochets together, 1 treble crochet in each of the last 16-17-17-18-18-19 treble crochets. Work 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet until the piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm. Cut and fasten the strand.
Diagram
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= treble crochet in stitch below |
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= triple-treble crochet around 2 chain stitches 2 rows below, i.e. work around these 2 chain stitches and the 6 chain stitches on the row below |
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= work 2 treble crochets together: * Make 1 yarn over, insert hook around the chain-space below, pick up strand, make 1 yarn over and pull it through the first 2 loops on the hook *, work from *-* 1 more time, make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops on hook. |
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= this row has already been worked; shows how the next row is worked in the stitches |
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= 2 chain stitches |
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= 6 chain stitches |
Do you need help with this pattern?
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 232-36) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Comments / Questions (15)
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 281 catalogues and 10519 patterns - 10519 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Ik kom niet uit de mouw. Na de meerderingen aan beide zijdes moet er heen en weer gehaakt naar beneden afw. 1 en 2 stokjes per lossenlus tot aan de zijnaden. Daarna keren en terug tot over de andere kant naar de zijnaad. Ik kom zo nooit gelijk uit. De ene kant heeft dan een toer teveel. Wat doe ik verkeerd?
11.06.2022 - 23:20DROPS Design answered:
Dag Janny,
De ene toer haak je 1 stokje om de laatste lossenlus aan beide kanten en de andere toer haak je 2 stokjes om de laatste lossenlus aan beide kanten. Zo wissel je steeds af.
12.06.2022 kl. 20:24Hello, I noticed that there are 5 more stitches on the back shoulder than on the front shoulder. I am making size XL and the stitches for the back are 24 and for the front are 19. How do I line up the front and back when sewing the shoulder seam? Is it to the neckline or the shoulders? Or do I center it between them? Thank you.
05.06.2022 - 01:18DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Rae, thanks for your feedback, there was a mistake under back piece, this is now fixed. Happy crocheting!
07.06.2022 kl. 11:02Top Hortense 232-36. Ik begrijp de werkwijze voor de mouw niet vanaf er voor maat M al 44 stokjes zijn. Er zouden dan 17 lossenlussen over zijn. Bij mij is dat het dubbele.Dan moet je afwisselend 1 en 2 stokjes haken in de lossenlussen tot aan de zijnaad, het werk keren, stokjes haken tot aan de andere kant van de mouwkop en opnieuw 1 en 2 stokjes in de lossenlussen tot aan de zijnaad. Dan haak je toch niet heen en weer ? Op de foto van het topje kan je dat niet zien. Geen duidelijke uitleg.
27.05.2022 - 17:02Hoe werkt het patroon van het kantpatroon precies. Is daar een video van?
17.05.2022 - 16:03DROPS Design answered:
Dag Lies,
Er is een telpatroon onderaan de beschrijving van het patroon. Hier staat ook een lijst met symbolen bij met een beschrijving. Er is geen video van specifiek van dit kantpatroon, maar wek van alle steken die ervoor gebruikt worden.
19.05.2022 kl. 20:38Patroon 232-36 : ik begrijp de werkwijze om de mouwen rechtstreeks te haken aan het armsgat. Je moet stokjes haken, eindigen met een halve vaste in een losse, het werk keren, 3 lossen haken en 1 halve vaste om de volgende lossenlus. Dat begrijp ik niet.
01.05.2022 - 16:48DROPS Design answered:
Dag Chantal,
Het is inderdaad een beetje verwarrend, maar het gaat erom dat je als het ware in de ronding haakt om de mouwkop te maken. Je kunt ook het werk pas keren nadat je 3 lossen en 1 halve vaste om de volgende lossenlus hebt gemaakt. Je maakt de 3 lossen dus vast aan de kant waar je het werk keert, zodat het armsgat om de ronding van mouwkop komt te zitten. Hopelijk heb ik het zo goed uitgelegd.
11.05.2022 kl. 09:30Bonjour Voila 3 ml remplace une bride ok (c'est-à-dire sauter la dernière maille du rang précédent. ) si on fait sa manque une bride Merci de votre réponse Béatrice
27.04.2022 - 14:31DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Béatrice, lorsque vous tournez et crochetez les 3 mailles en l'air pour remplacer la 1ère bride du rang, crochetez la 1ère bride du nouveau rang dans la 2ème bride du rang précédent (car les 3 mailles en l'air remplacent la 1ère bride et se trouvent juste au-dessus de la dernière bride du rang précédent). Bon crochet!
27.04.2022 kl. 15:27Si je ne peux pas imprimer, comment télécharger les modèles gratuits ?
13.04.2022 - 17:29DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Sylvia, pour télécharger un modèle, vous devez cliquer sur le bouton d'impression. Lorsque vous choisissez les options d'impression sur votre ordinateur et que vous pouvez sélectionner une imprimante, vous devez cliquer sur télécharger au format pdf.
14.04.2022 kl. 18:11J'adore hâte de le faire❤❤❤
21.03.2022 - 21:06Quando sarà disponibile? Mi piace molto
20.03.2022 - 14:11DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno, stiamo pubblicando i modelli della nuova collezione ogni settimana, continui a seguirci! Buon lavoro!
20.03.2022 kl. 15:21J'adore ❤
11.03.2022 - 21:23