DROPS Big Merino
DROPS Big Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Prairie Rose Set

Knitted singlet / crop top and shorts in DROPS Big Merino. Knit the singlet bottom up in rib. Knit the shorts top down in stocking stitch. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 230-3
DROPS design: Pattern mb-066
Yarn group C or A + A
----------------------------------------------------------

FOR THE ENTIRE SET:

SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS BIG MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
500-550-600-650-700-750 g colour 01, off white

SINGLET:

SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Because of the rib the piece will contract and be smaller than the measurements on chart, but the garment is very elastic so use the size you normally use.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BIG MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-200-250-250-250-300 g colour 01, off white

NEEDLES FOR SIZE S:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm: Length: 60 cm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm: Length: 60 cm

NEEDLES FOR SIZE M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm: Length: 80 cm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm: Length: 80 cm

KNITTING TENSION:
18 stitches in width and 23 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm. NOTE! Rib will contract the piece.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

SHORTS:

SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
MATERIALS:
DROPS BIG MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-350-350-400-450-500 g colour 01, off white

NEEDLES: NEEDLES FOR SIZE S:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm: Length 40 and 60 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm: Length 40 and 60 cm.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

NEEDLES FOR SIZE M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm: Length: 60 cm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm: Length: 60 cm

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Big Merino
DROPS Big Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
----------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

----------------------------------------------------------

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge vertically = 2 rounds, i.e. knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP (applies to armholes on singlet):
Decrease inside 2 stitches in garter stitch. All decreases are done from the right side!
DECREASE AS FOLLOWS AFTER 2 STITCHES IN GARTER STITCH:
Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.
DECREASE AS FOLLOWS BEFORE 2 STITCHES IN GARTER STITCH:
Work until 2 stitches remain before the 2 stitches in garter stitch, knit 2 together and work 2 stitches in garter stitch.

INCREASE TIP (applies to shorts):
BEFORE MARKER THREAD:
The new stitch is twisted towards the right.
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from round below, pick up yarn from the back and knit stitch in front loop of stitch.
AFTER MARKER THREAD:
The new stitch is twisted towards the left.
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from round below, pick up yarn from the front and knit stitch in back loop of stitch.

----------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

----------------------------------------------------------

SINGLET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work body in the round on circular needle, from the bottom and up to armholes. Then finish front piece and back piece back and forth on circular needle separately until finished measurements.

BODY:
Cast on 144-160-176-192-208-224 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with DROPS Big Merino. Knit 1 round. Then work rib as follows: * Purl 1, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
When rib measures 4 cm, switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm.
Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round and 1 marker thread after 72-80-88-96-104-112 stitches. Marker threads mark the sides of body – move the marker threads upwards when working.

Now work rib as follows: Purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain on round, knit 2, and finish with purl 1. Continue rib like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

When piece measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm, work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, over the middle 10-10-10-18-18-18 stitches in each side (marker threads is in the middle of these 10-10-10-18-18-18 stitches – work the other stitches on row in rib as before).
On first round after the 2 ridges, cast off for armholes as follows: Cast off 3-3-3-7-7-7 stitches, work 2 stitches in garter stitch, 62-70-78-78-86-94 stitches in rib as before (begin and end with knit 2), 2 stitches in garter stitch, cast off 6-6-6-14-14-14 stitches (marker thread is in the middle of these 6-6-6-14-14-14 stitches), work 2 stitches in garter stitch, 62-70-78-78-86-94 stitches in rib (begin and end with knit 2), 2 stitches in garter stitch, cast off the last 3-3-3-7-7-7 stitches. Cut the yarn. Finish front and back piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 66-74-82-82-90-98 stitches. Begin from wrong side, and continue rib back and forth with 2 stitches in garter stitch in each side.
AT THE SAME TIME on next row from right side, decrease 1 stitch in each side for armholes - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease for armholes like this on every other row 0-0-4-0-3-2 times in total, and then on every 4th row 4-4-4-4-5-6 times in total = 58-66-66-74-74-82 stitches. Continue rib with 2 stitches in garter stitch in each side.
When piece measures 27-29-30-32-33-35 cm, cast off for neck as follows: Work the first 10-10-14-14-18-18 stitches as before, and then slip the stitches on a thread for strap, cast off 38-46-38-46-38-46 stitches for neck, and work as before over the last 10-10-14-14-18-18 stitches. Then work straps as explained below.

STRAP:
= 10-10-14-14-18-18 stitches. Work rib back and forth as before with 2 stitches in garter stitch in each side until piece measures 34-36-38-40-42-44 cm from cast-on edge (strap measures approx. 7-7-8-8-9-9 cm). Cast off.
Slip stitches from thread back on circular needle size 4.5 mm , and work strap the same way as first strap.

FRONT PIECE:
= 66-74-82-82-90-98 stitches. Work the same way as back piece, cast off for neck and work straps the same way as on back piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew straps together inside cast-off edge at the top of each shoulder.

----------------------------------------------------------

SHORTS - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle from mid back, top down. To make the shorts higher mid back work an elevation. Then continue piece in the round before dividing for legs. Work each leg in the round on circular needle, top down. Twine a string at the end for edge with eyelet holes in the waist.

EDGE:
Cast on 128-144-152-168-192-208 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with DROPS Big Merino. Knit 1 round. Then work rib as follows: Knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain on round, purl 2, and finish with knit 1.
When rib measures 3 cm, work a round with eyelet holes for tie as follows: Knit 1, * make 1 yarn over, purl 2 together, knit 2 *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain on round, make 1 yarn over, purl 2 together, and finish with knit 1.
Continue rib = knit 2/purl 2 until edge measures 6 cm from cast-on edge.
Knit 1 round while increasing 2-2-4-4-6-6 stitches evenly = 130-146-156-172-198-214 stitches. Then work shorts as explained below.

SHORTS:
Switch to circular needle size 5 mm.
Insert 1 marker at beginning of round = mid back. Work elevation as follows: Begin from right side at the marker, knit 8-9-10-11-12-13, turn piece, tighten yarn, purl 16-18-20-22-24-26, turn piece, tighten yarn, knit 24-27-30-33-36-39, turn piece, tighten yarn, purl 32-36-40-44-48-52.
Continue back and forth like this by working 8-9-10-11-12-13 stitches more on every turn until 96-108-120-132-144-156 stitches in total have been worked back and forth (do not work over the middle 34-38-36-40-54-58 stitches mid front).
When elevation is done, knit until mid back. Shorts now measures approx. 5 cm vertically mid back.

Insert 6 marker threads in piece as explained below. Use marker threads when increasing and insert every marker thread between 2 stitches.
Replace the marker mid back with a marker thread, count 24-27-29-32-38-41 stitches, insert 1 marker thread before next stitch, count 17-19-20-22-23-25 stitches (in the side on shorts), insert 1 marker thread before next stitch, count 24-27-29-32-38-41 stitches, insert 1 marker thread before next stitch (mid front), count 24-27-29-32-38-41 stitches, insert 1 marker thread before next stitch, count 17-19-20-22-23-25 stitches (in the side on shorts), insert 1 marker thread before next stitch, 24-27-29-32-38-41 stitches remain on round after last marker thread.
Work in stocking stitch in the round.
When piece measures 2-3-3-3-3-4 cm measured after rib mid front, increase 1 stitch BEFORE every marker thread - read INCREASE TIP (= 6 stitches increased) - NOTE: To avoid moving the marker thread mid back do the increase before this marker thread at the end of round.
When piece measures 5-6-6-6-6-7 cm measured after rib mid front, increase 1 stitch AFTER every marker thread- remember INCREASE TIP (= 6 stitches increased).
Increase alternately before and after the 6 marker threads every 3 cm 6 times in total = 166-182-192-208-234-250 stitches (remember that the increase before marker thread mid back is done at the end of round).
When piece measures 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm measured after rib mid front, remove the marker threads.
Now insert 1 marker in first stitch on round, and 1 marker in the 84th-92nd-97th-105th-118th-126th stitch on round (mid back and mid front).
On next round increase both BEFORE and AFTER stitches with markers - remember INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this on EVERY round 6 times in total = 190-206-216-232-258-274 stitches. After last increase piece measures approx. 27-28-29-30-31-32 cm from cast-on edge mid front.

Now divide the piece at both markers and finish each leg separately. Slip the first 95-103-108-116-129-137 stitches on short circular needle size 5 mm and leave the remaining 95-103-108-116-129-137 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm. Cut the yarn.

LEG:
= 95-103-108-116-129-137 stitches. Cast on 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches at the beginning of row, work in stocking stitch over the 95-103-108-116-129-137 stitches, and cast on 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches at the end of row = 101-109-116-124-139-147 stitches.
Slip the piece together, and work in stocking stitch in the round until piece measures 4-5-6-7-8-9 cm, or desired length.
Knit 1 round while increasing 31-35-36-36-41-45 stitches evenly = 132-144-152-160-180-192 stitches.
Switch to a short circular needle size 4 mm. Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm. Loosely cast off. Leg measures approx. 8-9-10-11-12-13
Slip stitches from the other leg on a short circular needle size 5 mm and work the same way as first leg.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew opening between legs, i.e. sew seam along mid front to mid back in the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches cast on in each side on each leg.

TWINED STRING:
Cut 3 strands Big Merino of 3½-3½-4½-4½-5½-5½ metres each, twine the strands together until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Make a knot at each end.
Begin mid front on shorts and thread tie up and down through eyelet row on edge.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 28.05.2024
The drawing is updated.

Diagram

diagram measurements
diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 230-3

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (33)

country flag Darla wrote:

How can I see a size chart? I cant find the measurements to choose a size.

10.06.2024 - 17:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Darla, all the relevant measurements can be found on the schematic drawing at the bottom of the pattern. We suggest that you take a similar garment that fits the intended wearer, measure it and compare. Happy Crafting!

11.06.2024 - 00:51

country flag Ali wrote:

I have a question I can't figure out on the singlet arm holes, this part: "Bind off stitches, work 2 stitches in garter stitch, 62 stitches in rib as before, 2 stitches in garter stitch, bind off 6 stitches, work 2 stitches in garter stitch" When I bind off the 3/6 stitches, am I supposed to continue in the round, pulling the yarn across the bound off stitches which creates a large hole/length of yarn? Confused!

28.05.2024 - 00:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Ali, When you bind off stitches, these stitches are worked as you bind off, carrying the strand with you. The bound off stitches then leave a gap for each armhole. After this bind-off round you continue back and forth separately across the front and back pieces, finishing first the back piece and strap then the front piece. Happy knitting!

28.05.2024 - 06:40

country flag Lisa Holand wrote:

Jeg er ikke enig, jeg har shortsen foran meg nå og det blir i praksis ikke riktig😊 Utagningene havner i skrittet. Men da ser iallfall de som strikker kommentaren min!

15.05.2024 - 16:42

country flag Lisa Holand wrote:

Kan dere se på kommentaren min om mål og evt rette opp i målskissa?

13.05.2024 - 17:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lisa, udtagningerne bliver en del af omkredsen. I L har du 216m / 17 = 127 cm inden du deler arbejdet.

14.05.2024 - 12:20

country flag Lisa Holand wrote:

Jeg holder på å strikke shortsen i str L. Oppgitt hoftemål er altfor stort. De 6 økningene til slutt foran og bak (=24 m) former skrittet og er mellom bena og dermed ikke en del av det som blir hoftemålet. I mine øyne er det reelle hoftemålet i L ca 113 cm (192÷17×10).

13.05.2024 - 15:22

country flag Martine Pousset wrote:

Bonjour je voudrais faire se modèle pour ma petite fille mais je ne tricoté qu avec des aiguilles droites et non circulaires je voulais savoir si c est le même nombres de mailles et faire pareil je vous remercie d avance

16.04.2024 - 21:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Pousset, cette leçon va vous donner quelques pistes pour pouvoir adapter un modèle sur aiguilles droites. Bon tricot!

17.04.2024 - 08:29

country flag Isabelle wrote:

I am at the point where my body work for the tank top reached 19cm. I am confused about the DECREASE TIP and other decreases that are listed on the garter stitch. It is unclear whether I should decrease before starting the first row of garter stitches or not. Could you clarify when to start decreasing the armholes? Is the DECREASE TIP only for the back piece?

16.04.2024 - 16:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Isabelle, the DECREASE TIP tells you to decrease inside the garter stitch, that is, at the beginning of the row, after the two stitches knitted at the edge with gater stitch, at the end of the row just before the two last stitch, that is knitted with garter stitch. Happy Crafting!

16.04.2024 - 21:51

country flag Robin wrote:

I am starting the back piece—are the decreases only done on the right side and the rib pattern continues with the knitting done on the wrong side.? Just a little confused.

18.03.2024 - 07:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Robin, the decreases for armholes are worked on every row from right side, decrease as explained under DECREASE TIP (applies to armholes on singlet):, at the same time work in rib as before with 2 edge sts in garter stitch on each side (decreases are worked inside these 2 sts). Happy knitting!

18.03.2024 - 15:09

country flag Robin wrote:

Where are the 18 stitches supposed to be in the singlet pattern to do the garter stitch? I am working on the body and have a total of 208 stitches. With markers at the beginning and again at 104 stitches.

14.03.2024 - 19:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Robin, the 18 sts in garter stitch will be worked on both sides of body, on either side of markers, ie you will work in garter stitch 9 sts before the marker + 9 sts after the marker and repeat at the other marker. Happy knitting!

15.03.2024 - 08:20

country flag Robin wrote:

I am working on the body of the singlet and am at the point where you are to do garter stitch over middle of 18 stitches. The pattern says the thread marker is in the middle. I am not sure where the 18 stitches are. I have a total of 208 stitches and markers at the beginning and after 104 stitches.

14.03.2024 - 19:36