DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.15$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Christmas Calendar
DROPS 229-15

#carefreefeelingponcho

DROPS Design: Pattern ai-391
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S/M - M/L - L/XL
1 square measures approx. 34 x 34 cm = 13⅜" x 13⅜".

Finished measurements:
Shoulder/arm lenght: 39-45-50 cm = 15¼"-17¾"-19¾"
Full length: 70-76-81 cm = 27½"-29½"-32"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100-150-150 g color 01, off white
100-100-100 g color 33, pink sand
50-50-50 g color 02, wheat
50-50-50 g color 26, beige
50-50-50 g color 32, blush

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 MM = US H/8.

CROCHET GAUGE:
14 double crochets in width and 8.5 rows in height = 10 cm = 4".
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller hook size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.15$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6.

COLORS SQUARE (A.1 to A.3):
CAST ON and ROUND 1: off white
ROUND 2: pink sand
ROUND 3: blush
ROUND 4: wheat
ROUND 5: beige
ROUND 6: off white
ROUND 7: pink sand
ROUND 8: off white

COLORS EDGE (A.4 to A.6):
ROUND 1: off white
ROUND 2: wheat
ROUND 3: beige
ROUND 4: off white
ROUND 5: pink sand
ROUND 6: off white
ROUND 7: blush
ROUND 8: pink sand
ROUND 9: off white

COLOR-CHANGE TIP:
When changing color work as follows: Work the last stitch on the round with the old color, but wait with the final yarn over and pull-through, change to the next color and work the yarn over and pull-through, then continue as shown in the diagram.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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PONCHO - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The poncho is made up of 4 squares sewn together as shown in the sketch. Then a wide edge is worked at the bottom and a narrow edge around the neck. A cord for the neck is worked to finish.

1 SQUARE:
Read COLORS SQUARE in explanations above. Start with hook size 5 MM = US H/8 and color off white in DROPS Air. Work 5 chain stitches and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch.
Read COLOR-CHANGE TIP, and work diagram A.1 (circle). REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! When A.1 has been completed, continue as follows: Work A.2 (= beginning and end of the round), A.3 four times around the circle.
When A.2 and A.3 are finished, cut and fasten the strands.
Work 4 squares.

ASSEMBLY:
Lay the squares as shown in the sketch. NOTE: Make sure the square marked with a black star lies so the end of the round is towards the outside edge. The star marks the start of the edge to be worked later. Sew the squares together edge to edge so the seam is flat. Cut and fasten the strands.

BOTTOM EDGE:
Read COLORS EDGE in the explanations above. Start in the stitch marked with a star in A.2. Work A.4 in this stitch, then A.5 three times, work A.6 in the corner/point of the poncho, work A.5 to the next corner – NOTE: In each transition between 2 squares work 1 chain stitch, 2 double crochets around the corner chain-space on the first square, 1 chain stitch, 2 double crochets around the corner chain-space on the second square. Continue like this around the whole poncho.
S/M: Finish the edge after round 4 in A.4 to A.6. Cut and fasten the strands.
M/L: Work the whole of A.4 to A.6. Cut and fasten the strands.
L/XL: Work the whole of A.4 to A.6 but adjust so that the number of double crochets between 2 corners/points on the last round is divisible by 6. Then work rounds 1 to 4 in A.4 to A.6 one more time.
Cut and fasten the strands.

EDGE AROUND NECK:
Start mid-back at the bottom of the neck, work 1 single crochet with off white, * 3 chain stitches, skip 2 double crochets, 1 single crochet in the next stitch *, work from *-* around the neck, finish with 3 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in the single crochet at the beginning of the round. Cut and fasten the strand.

CORD:
Work a row of chain stitches, using off white, length 75 to 85 cm = 29½" to 33½" (the number of stitches should be divisible by 4 + 1). Work 1 single crochet in the 9th chain stitch from the hook, * 3 chain stitches, skip 3 chain stitches, 1 single crochet in the next chain stitch *, work from *-* along the whole row. Cut and fasten the strand.

Start at the bottom of the neck, mid-front and thread the cord up and down through the row of holes around the neck.
Tie a bow mid-front.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = start here – this chain-stitch ring is described in the text. Continue with the symbol over the point on the circle and work to the left
symbols = 1 slip stitch around the chain-space
symbols = 1 chain stitch - if you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 single/double/treble crochet is wide.
symbols = 3 chain stitches
symbols = 1 chain stitch at the beginning of the round, finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the chain stitch at the beginning of the round
symbols = 1 single crochet around chain-space/chain stitch or 1 single crochet in stitch below
symbols = 3 chain stitches at the beginning of the round, finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round (these 3 chain stitches do not replace the first double crochet on the round)
symbols = 1 double crochet around chain-stitch-ring/chain-space/chain stitch or 1 double crochet in stitch below
symbols = 2 double crochets around chain stitch
symbols = 4 chain stitches at the beginning of the round, finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain stitch at the beginning of the round (these 4 chain stitches do not replace the first treble crochet on the round)
symbols = 1 treble crochet around chain-space/chain stitch
symbols = 4 chain stitches, work 1 treble crochet in the same stitch at the beginning of the round, finish the round with 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch at the beginning of the round
symbols = work 2 treble crochets together around the chain-space or in stitch below as follows: work 1 treble crochet around chain-space or in stitch, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through, work 1 more treble crochet around the or in the same stitch and pull the last yarn over through all 3 loops on the hook
symbols = 4 chain stitches, work 2 treble crochets around the same chain-space, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through on both these treble crochets, work 1 more treble crochet around the same chain-space and pull the last yarn over through all 4 loops on the hook, finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain stitch at the beginning of the round
symbols = work 4 treble crochets together around the same chain-space as follows: work 3 treble crochets but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through on each of these treble crochets, work 1 more treble crochet around the same chain-space and pull the last yarn over through all 5 loops on the hook
symbols = start on this round in the diagram, previous round already worked (last round on square)
symbols = work a double-crochet group around chain-space the arrow points to
symbols = the end of the round should lie towards the outside of the poncho
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!
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Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Jacqueline Parton wrote:

Really struggling with the charts is there a written pattern can’t see where a2 goes thank you

10.06.2024 - 22:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jacqueline, we do not have a written out pattern, not only because our patterns are available in many languages, but also, because we believe that with diagrams you can see the "bigger picture", in other words, not only the very next step, the very next stitch, but also how stitches and rows relate to each other. HERE we have a lesson on how to read crochet diagrams, and you can always ask for help either over the phone or in person in the store where you bought your DROPS yarn from. Happy crafting!

11.06.2024 - 01:07

country flag Dominique wrote:

Bonjour Comment assemblée les carrés ensemble ? Couture sur l'endroit ou sur l'envers ? Merci

24.04.2024 - 17:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Dominique, il existe différentes façons de faire, vous pouvez les crocheter ensemble (cf vidéo ou bien les coudre, comme dans cette vidéo ou bien comme dans celle-ci, au choix. Bon assemblage!

25.04.2024 - 07:45

country flag Domi wrote:

Bonjour Je ne comprends pas le diagramme A2. Que faut il faire ? Merci

26.03.2024 - 11:35

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Domi, le diagramme A.2 montre le début et la fin des tours, avant de crocheter par ex 4 fois A.3 autour du cercle (pour le carré). Retrouvez comment commencer ces tours en suivant la légende des symboles correspondants. Bon crochet!

02.04.2024 - 10:19

country flag Darlene wrote:

Hi. The instructions for the bottom edge state “Start in the stitch marked with a star in A2. “ The diagram of A2 has no star. Then it says “Work A4 in this stitch…” . What stitch.? These instructions make no sense. Can you please explain? Thank you.

22.04.2023 - 21:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Darlene, the star is not in A.2, but rather in the measurement schematic. So, you start working A.4 and A.5 over the stitches in A.2 at that position of the poncho. Happy crochetting!

23.04.2023 - 19:39

country flag Sandrine Haudecoeur wrote:

Bonjour, je bloque à partir du 5eme rang du diagramme A3, je n'arrive pas à faire correspondre correctement mes groupes de brides pour avoir des angles corrects, comment lire le schéma correctement ?

11.04.2023 - 12:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Haudecoeur, le diagramme A.3 ne comporte que 5 rangs, autrement dit, après le dernier rang du diagramme, vous pouvez couper et rentrer le fil. Pour ce 5ème rang, crochetez A.2 (début du tour), puis 1 bride autour de chaque maille en l'air/arceau et dans chaque bride jusqu'aux coins, dans l'arceau du coin, crochetez 3 brides, 3 mailles en l'air, 3 brides. Ou bien ai-je mal compris votre question?

11.04.2023 - 14:27

country flag Garcia wrote:

Bonjour , Entre le rang deux et 3 du diagramme A1Il y a un sigle VO .Concernant le V=maille coulée autour de l'arceau-De quel arceau s'agit)-il. Faut-il bien commencer par le sigle O puis V. Merci pour votre aide

24.10.2022 - 11:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Garcia, il s'agit du 1er arceau du tour, vous crochetez 1 maille en l'air, puis 1 maille coulée dans le 1er arceau, puis le symbole commençant par les 4 mailles en l'air, 3 double-brides autour du même arceau, etc... (= 14ème symbole). Bon crochet!

24.10.2022 - 16:09

country flag Annabelle Garcia wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas le démarrage de la deuxième ligne du diagramme A1.Je commence le tour par 4 mailles en l'air mais ensuite que veut dire crocheter une double bride dans la même maille Quelle maille? Le changement de couleur se fait-il avant ou après les 4 mailles en l'air? Merci pour votre aide Annabelle

20.10.2022 - 12:52

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Garcia, dans la même maille d'où vous avez fait votre maille coulée + les 4 mailles en l'air, autrement dit, dans la 3ème maille en l'air du début du tour précédent (qui remplaçaient la 1ère bride du tour). Quand on change de couleur, on doit crocheter la dernière maille coulée du tour avec la couleur du tour suivant (cf cette vidéo). Bon crochet!

20.10.2022 - 13:14

country flag Betty wrote:

Bonjour, j'ai besoin d'explications pour l'assemblage des 4 carrés, je ne comprends pas bien le schéma. Merci de m'aider

30.04.2022 - 17:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Betty, posez un carré à plat comme au milieu devant du schéma, placez un 2ème carré le long du côté gauche en haut de ce carré et assemblez ces 2 carrés entre eux. Placez un autre carré le long du côté droit en haut du 1er carré et assemblez les entre eux. Ils forment maintenant une sorte de grand V. Retournez l'ouvrage sur l'envers, repliez les carrés 2 et 3 en double et placez le dernier carré (milieu dos) au-dessus du 1er et assemblez-le aux carrés pliés en double. Bon assemblage!

02.05.2022 - 08:19

country flag Daphne wrote:

Sweet memories

17.01.2022 - 14:20