Carefree Feeling by DROPS Design

Crocheted poncho with squares in DROPS Air. Sizes S – XL.

Keywords: granny square, poncho, square

DROPS 229-15
DROPS Design: Pattern ai-391
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S/M - M/L - L/XL
1 square measures approx. 34 x 34 cm = 13 3/8" x 13 3/8".

Finished measurements:
Shoulder/arm lenght: 39-45-50 cm = 15 1/4"-17 3/4"-19 3/4"
Full length: 70-76-81 cm = 27 1/2"-29 1/2"-32"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100-150-150 g color 01, off white
100-100-100 g color 33, pink sand
50-50-50 g color 02, wheat
50-50-50 g color 26, beige
50-50-50 g color 32, blush

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 MM = US H/8.

CROCHET GAUGE:
14 double crochets in width and 8.5 rows in height = 10 cm = 4”.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller hook size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool

from 4.50 $ /50g

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	DROPS Air mix	4.50 $ /50g Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd	Order
	DROPS Air uni colour	4.50 $ /50g Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd	Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6.

COLORS SQUARE (A.1 to A.3):
CAST ON and ROUND 1: off white
ROUND 2: pink sand
ROUND 3: blush
ROUND 4: wheat
ROUND 5: beige
ROUND 6: off white
ROUND 7: pink sand
ROUND 8: off white

COLORS EDGE (A.4 to A.6):
ROUND 1: off white
ROUND 2: wheat
ROUND 3: beige
ROUND 4: off white
ROUND 5: pink sand
ROUND 6: off white
ROUND 7: blush
ROUND 8: pink sand
ROUND 9: off white

COLOR-CHANGE TIP:
When changing color work as follows: Work the last stitch on the round with the old color, but wait with the final yarn over and pull-through, change to the next color and work the yarn over and pull-through, then continue as shown in the diagram.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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PONCHO - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The poncho is made up of 4 squares sewn together as shown in the sketch. Then a wide edge is worked at the bottom and a narrow edge around the neck. A cord for the neck is worked to finish.

1 SQUARE:
Read COLORS SQUARE in explanations above. Start with hook size 5 MM = US H/8 and color off white in DROPS Air. Work 5 chain stitches and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch.
Read COLOR-CHANGE TIP, and work diagram A.1 (circle). REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! When A.1 has been completed, continue as follows: Work A.2 (= beginning and end of the round), A.3 four times around the circle.
When A.2 and A.3 are finished, cut and fasten the strands.
Work 4 squares.

ASSEMBLY:
Lay the squares as shown in the sketch. NOTE: Make sure the square marked with a black star lies so the end of the round is towards the outside edge. The star marks the start of the edge to be worked later. Sew the squares together edge to edge so the seam is flat. Cut and fasten the strands.

BOTTOM EDGE:
Read COLORS EDGE in the explanations above. Start in the stitch marked with a star in A.2. Work A.4 in this stitch, then A.5 three times, work A.6 in the corner/point of the poncho, work A.5 to the next corner – NOTE: In each transition between 2 squares work 1 chain stitch, 2 double crochets around the corner chain-space on the first square, 1 chain stitch, 2 double crochets around the corner chain-space on the second square. Continue like this around the whole poncho.
S/M: Finish the edge after round 4 in A.4 to A.6. Cut and fasten the strands.
M/L: Work the whole of A.4 to A.6. Cut and fasten the strands.
L/XL: Work the whole of A.4 to A.6 but adjust so that the number of double crochets between 2 corners/points on the last round is divisible by 6. Then work rounds 1 to 4 in A.4 to A.6 one more time.
Cut and fasten the strands.

EDGE AROUND NECK:
Start mid-back at the bottom of the neck, work 1 single crochet with off white, * 3 chain stitches, skip 2 double crochets, 1 single crochet in the next stitch *, work from *-* around the neck, finish with 3 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in the single crochet at the beginning of the round. Cut and fasten the strand.

CORD:
Work a row of chain stitches, using off white, length 75 to 85 cm = 29 1/2" to 33 1/2" (the number of stitches should be divisible by 4 + 1). Work 1 single crochet in the 9th chain stitch from the hook, * 3 chain stitches, skip 3 chain stitches, 1 single crochet in the next chain stitch *, work from *-* along the whole row. Cut and fasten the strand.

Start at the bottom of the neck, mid-front and thread the cord up and down through the row of holes around the neck.
Tie a bow mid-front.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= start here – this chain-stitch ring is described in the text. Continue with the symbol over the point on the circle and work to the left
	= 1 slip stitch around the chain-space
	= 1 chain stitch - if you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 single/double/treble crochet is wide.
	= 3 chain stitches
	= 1 chain stitch at the beginning of the round, finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the chain stitch at the beginning of the round
	= 1 single crochet around chain-space/chain stitch or 1 single crochet in stitch below
	= 3 chain stitches at the beginning of the round, finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round (these 3 chain stitches do not replace the first double crochet on the round)
	= 1 double crochet around chain-stitch-ring/chain-space/chain stitch or 1 double crochet in stitch below
	= 2 double crochets around chain stitch
	= 4 chain stitches at the beginning of the round, finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain stitch at the beginning of the round (these 4 chain stitches do not replace the first treble crochet on the round)
	= 1 treble crochet around chain-space/chain stitch
	= 4 chain stitches, work 1 treble crochet in the same stitch at the beginning of the round, finish the round with 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch at the beginning of the round
	= work 2 treble crochets together around the chain-space or in stitch below as follows: work 1 treble crochet around chain-space or in stitch, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through, work 1 more treble crochet around the or in the same stitch and pull the last yarn over through all 3 loops on the hook
	= 4 chain stitches, work 2 treble crochets around the same chain-space, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through on both these treble crochets, work 1 more treble crochet around the same chain-space and pull the last yarn over through all 4 loops on the hook, finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain stitch at the beginning of the round
	= work 4 treble crochets together around the same chain-space as follows: work 3 treble crochets but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through on each of these treble crochets, work 1 more treble crochet around the same chain-space and pull the last yarn over through all 5 loops on the hook
	= start on this round in the diagram, previous round already worked (last round on square)
	= work a double-crochet group around chain-space the arrow points to
	= the end of the round should lie towards the outside of the poncho

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 229-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ).

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

2) What are the yarn groups?

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

8) What is a repeat?

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

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