Dino Cuddles by DROPS Design

Crocheted Dinosaur (T-Rex) in 2 strands DROPS Snow. The piece is worked from nose to tail with 1 seam. Theme: Soft toys.

Keywords: animals, toys
DROPS Design: Pattern no ee-147-bn
Yarn group E
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SIZE:
Height: approx. 48 cm = 19"
Length: approx. 48 cm = 19"

MATERIALS:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
600 g color 66, sea green – for body
100 g color 85, curry – for legs and spines
And use:
Left-over black for eyes.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 8 MM = US L/11.

ACCESSORIES: Wadding.

CROCHET GAUGE:
8 single crochets in width and 10 rows in height with 2 strands = 10 cm = 4”.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller hook size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool
from 2.85 $ /50g
DROPS Snow uni colour DROPS Snow uni colour 2.85 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Snow mix DROPS Snow mix 3.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Snow print DROPS Snow print 3.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.90$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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CROCHET TIP (chain stitch):
1 chain stitch should equal 1 single crochet in width. Make sure the chain-stitch loop is pushed up the hook so it is not tight. If the chain stitches are tight, the piece will also be tight in sections where there are a lot of chain stitches.

WORK 2 SINGLE CROCHETS TOGETHER:
Insert the hook through the first stitch and pick up the strand, insert the hook in the next stitch and pick up the strand (= 3 loops), make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops (= 1 stitch decreased).

LOOP STITCH:
Sew with a single strand and black. The eye is embroidered over rows 1 and 2 of the face with 5 stitches between each eye. See diagram which shows how to work loop stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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DINOSAUR – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The whole piece is worked with 2 strands, from nose to tail and with 1 seam under the body.
4 legs are worked separately, then the head is worked, continued to the neck and body at the same time as the front and back legs are attached. The spines are worked to finish.

FRONT LEGS:
Work 2 chain stitches with hook size 8 MM = US L/11 and 2 strands curry DROPS Snow – read CROCHET TIP.
In the first chain stitch work 5 single crochets, which form a small circle. Finish the circle with 1 slip stitch in the first single crochet. ROUND 1 is finished.
ROUND 2: Work 1 chain stitch, then 2 single crochets in each stitch. Finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the first single crochet = 10 stitches. Cut the strands and change to 2 strands sea green.
ROUND 3: Work 1 chain stitch, * 2 single crochets in the next stitch, 1 single crochet in the next stitch, * work from *-* to the end of the round (= 15 stitches). Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first single crochet.
ROUNDS 4-9: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in each stitch. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first single crochet (= 15 stitches). Cut the strands and pull them through the last loop.
Work 1 more leg and fill both with wadding.

BACK LEGS:
Work in the same way as the FRONT LEGS, but with an extra round of curry before changing to sea green.

NOSE:
Work 2 chain stitches with hook size 8 MM = US L/11 and 2 strands sea green. In the first chain stitch work 5 single crochets, which form a small circle. Finish the circle with 1 slip stitch in the first stitch. ROUND 1 is finished.
ROUND 2: Work 1 chain stitch, then 2 single crochets in each stitch (= 10 stitches). Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first stitch.
ROUND 3: Work 1 chain stitch, * 2 single crochets in the next stitch, 1 single crochet in the next stitch, * work from *-* to the end of the round. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first stitch (= 15 stitches).
ROUND 4: Work 1 chain stitch, * 2 single crochets in the next stitch, 1 single crochet in each of the next 2 stitches *, work from *-* to the end of the round. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first stitch (= 20 stitches).
ROUND 5: Work 1 chain stitch, * 2 single crochets in the next stitch, 1 single crochet in each of the next 3 stitches *, work from *-* to the end of the round. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first stitch (= 25 stitches).
ROUND 6: Work 1 chain stitch, * 2 single crochets in the next stitch, 1 single crochet in each of the next 4 stitches *, work from *-* to the end of the round. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first stitch (= 30 stitches).
ROUNDS 7-11: Work 1 chain stitch, then 1 single crochet in each stitch. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first stitch (= 30 stitches).
ROUND 12: Work 1 chain stitch, * 1 single crochet in each of the next 2 stitches, work together the next 2 single crochets– read WORK TOGETHER 2 SINGLE CROCHETS in the explanations above *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, work 1 single crochet in each of the last 2 stitches, finish with 1 slip stitch in the first stitch at the beginning of the round (= 23 stitches).
ROUND 13: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in each stitch. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first stitch (= 23 stitches).

FACE:
Continue working back and forth.
ROWS 1-4: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in each stitch. Turn.
ROWS 5-6: Work 1 chain stitch, 2 single crochets in the first stitch, 1 single crochet in each stitch until there is 1 stitch left and 2 single crochets in the last stitch (= 2 stitches increased) (= 27 stitches). Turn.
ROWS 7-8: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in each stitch. Turn.
Now embroider 2 eyes with LOOP STITCH – read explanation above.

NECK:
Along the side of the FACE you have 8 rows, continue back and forth along both sides of the face (a total of 16 rows):
ROW 1: Work 2 single crochets in the last row worked on the face, * 1 single crochet in each of the next 2 rows, 2 single crochets in the next row *, work from *-* to the end of the 16 rows = 22 stitches. Turn.
ROW 2: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in each stitch. Turn.
ROW 3: Work 1 chain stitch, 2 single crochets in the first stitch, 1 single crochet in each stitch until there is 1 stitch left, 2 single crochets in the last stitch (= 2 stitches increased). Turn.
Work ROWS 2 and 3 until you have a total of 6 rows (= 26 stitches on row 6). Turn.

BODY:
Now the 2 front legs are attached to the body.
ROW 1: Work 1 chain stitch, 2 single crochets in the first stitch, 1 single crochet in each of the next 4 stitches, fold one front leg double and lay it onto the body so the next 6 stitches are worked through 3 layers, work 1 single crochet in each of the next 4 stitches (= mid-front/between legs), fold the other front leg double and lay it onto the body so the next 6 stitches are worked through 3 layers, 1 single crochet in each of the next 4 stitches, 2 single crochets in the last stitch (= 28 stitches). Turn.
ROW 2: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in each stitch. Turn.
ROW 3: Work 1 chain stitch, 2 single crochets in the first stitch, 1 single crochet in each stitch until there is 1 stitch left, 2 single crochets in the last stitch (= 2 stitches increased). Turn.
Work ROWS 2 and 3 until you have a total of 5 rows (= 32 stitches on ROW 5). Turn.
ROW 6: Increase for the stomach as follows:
Work 1 chain stitch, 2 single crochets in the first stitch, 1 single crochet in each of the next 8 stitches, * 2 single crochets in the next stitch, 1 single crochet in the next stitch *, work from *-* a total of 7 times, 2 single crochets in the next stitch, 1 single crochet in each of the next 7 stitches, 2 single crochets in the last stitch (= 10 increased stitches, 42 stitches). Turn.
ROW 7: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in each stitch. Turn.
ROW 8: On this row increase for the stomach:
Work 1 chain stitch, 2 single crochets in the first stitch, 1 single crochet in each of the next 16 stitches, * 2 single crochets in the next stitch, 1 single crochet in the next stitch *, work from *-* a total of 4 times, 1 single crochet in each of the next 16 stitches, 2 single crochets in the last stitch (= 6 increased stitches, 48 stitches). Turn.
ROW 9: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in each stitch. Turn.
ROW 10: Work 1 chain stitch, 2 single crochets in the first stitch, 1 single crochet in each stitch until there is 1 stitch left and 2 single crochets in the last stitch (= 2 increased stitches, 50 stitches). Turn.
ROW 11: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in each stitch. Turn.
ROW 12: Work 1 chain stitch, 2 single crochets in the first stitch, 1 single crochet in each stitch until there is 1 stitch left and 2 single crochets in the last stitch (= 2 increased stitches, 52 stitches). Turn.
ROW 13: Now attach the back legs to the body. Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in each of the first 15 stitches, fold one back leg double and lay it onto the body so the next 6 stitches are worked through 3 layers, work 1 single crochet in each of the next 10 stitches (= mid-front/between legs), fold the other back leg double and lay it onto the body so the next 6 stitches are worked through 3 layers, 1 single crochet in each of the last 15 stitches. Turn.

UNDER-SIDE:
ROWS 1-3: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in each stitch. Turn.
ROW 4: On this row decrease for the flat bottom:
Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in each of the first 18 stitches, * work together the next 2 single crochets *, work from *-* a total of 8 times, 1 single crochet in each of the last 18 stitches (= 8 decreased stitches, 44 stitches). Turn.
ROW 5: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in each stitch. Turn.
ROW 6: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in each of the first 14 stitches, work together the next 2 single crochets *, work from *-* a total of 8 times, 1 single crochet in each of the last 15 stitches (= 8 decreased stitches, 36 stitches). Turn.
ROW 7: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in each stitch. Turn.
ROW 8: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in each of the next 14 stitches, * work together the next 2 single crochets *, work from *-* a total of 4 times, 1 single crochet in each of the last 14 stitches (= 4 decreased stitches, 32 stitches). Cut and fasten the strands.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the bottom length-wise and sew the stitches together edge to edge so the bottom is flat.

TAIL:
Use hook size 8 MM = US L/11 and 2 strands sea green. Along the side of the UNDER-SIDE you have 8 rows (each side of the seam), you now work back and forth along both sides of the seam, i.e. 16 rows:
ROW 1: Work 1 single crochet in each row (= 16 stitches). Turn.
ROW 2: Work 1 chain stitch, work together the next 2 single crochets, single crochet in each stitch until there are 2 stitches left and work together the last 2 single crochets (= 2 stitches decreased). Turn.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 until you have 12 rows and 4 stitches left. Cut and fasten the strands.

BACK:
Use hook size 8 MM = US L/11 and 2 strands sea green. Work 1 row of single crochets along the opening for the back, starting at the tail (work 1 side at a time) as follows:
ROW 1: Work 1 stitch in each row/stitch – from the tail to the top of the head, then back again along the other side. Approx. 45 stitches on each side, 90 stitches in total. Turn.
Fill the dinosaur with wadding.
ROW 2: Fold the back double and work single crochets through both layers from the tail to the top, closing the opening = 45 stitches. Cut and fasten the strands.

SPINES:
Use hook size 8 MM = US L/11 and 2 strands curry. Start at the tip of the tail:
* Work 1 single crochet, skip 1 stitch, in the next stitch work: 2 double crochets, 1 treble crochet, 2 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet and 2 double crochets. Skip 1 stitch and work 1 single crochet in the next stitch *, work from *-* a total of 2 times then repeat *-* up the back but skipping 2 stitches instead of 1.
When there are too few stitches for a spine on the head, finish the row with single crochets. Cut and fasten the strands.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 41-29) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Gillian Wilson wrote:

Oh I’ve tried to do the neck of this dinosaur 3 times with no success, can u please, please explain HELP!! From rows 1 if I work *2 double crochet into each stitch of last row of face, then 2 rows of double crochet* and then another row of 2 double crochet, then repeat from I will be increasing stitches rather than decreasing which is what the pattern says (decreasing 5 stitches) by the end of the 16 rows from 27 stitches to 22!! Please please help me get this Dino finished. HELP HELP!!!

09.06.2022 - 21:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Wilson, you now don't work over the 27 stitches of the head (these will be worked later together when you will work together the whole piece from the head towards the tail), you just crochet in the sides of the 8 rows starting on the left side of head (when nose is towards you): 2 dc in each row = 16 dc then down along the other side (under nose): 2 dc in each row = 16 dc = you have now 22 dc. you now work in rows increasing 1 dc on each side on every other row until you get 26 dc. Happy crocheting!

10.06.2022 kl. 08:50

country flag Hannah wrote:

Is this the whole pattern?

29.04.2022 - 20:58

country flag Camilla-Louise wrote:

Jeg laver den store men den hale den giver mig virkelig problemer jeg kan virkelig ikke se at der skal være 16 masker kan i hjælpe? Når jeg tæller kommer jeg op over bagben og der ved jeg godt ikke kan passe😅

26.04.2022 - 20:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Camilla-Louise, halen hækles rundt om bagenden, så du kommer ikke i nærheden af benene :)

29.04.2022 kl. 08:19

country flag Blain wrote:

Bonjour, Je vous ai posé une question concernant le nécessaire de rembourrage pour ce modèle. Je vais passer commande sur un site qui vend de la laine drops pour le nécessaire mais j'ai besoin de la quantité de ouate de remplissage à commander cela m'évitera de payer deux fois les frais d'envoi. merci Je vais le faire pour un cadeau proche donc relativement urgent votre réponse. Merci

14.04.2022 - 14:03

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Blain, vous trouverez la réponse ci-dessous, merci pour votre patience. Bon crochet!

26.04.2022 kl. 11:10

country flag Blain wrote:

Bonjour, Dans le matériel nécessaire pour faire le DINO il faut de la ouate de rembourrage . Pourriez vous m'indiquer la quantité approximative nécessaire svp 500 gr 1kg ou plus . Je dois la commander . Merci beaucoup.

10.04.2022 - 19:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Blain, la quantité va dépendre de la matière choisie et de la façon dont vous allez le rembourrer (plus ou moins ferme); il faut environ autant de rembourrage que pour un coussin d'ornement d'environ 50 x60 cm. Bon crochet!

26.04.2022 kl. 11:10

country flag Marcia M Simons wrote:

I dont understand the work 1 chain st in the face of the pattern. How many stitches is that? What do I need to do?

23.03.2022 - 14:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs M Simons, on the first row under FACE you crochet 1 chain stitch at the beginning of the row, then 1 sc in each of the next sc (= 23 sc + 1 chain stitch to turn with). Can this help?

23.03.2022 kl. 15:16

country flag Marcia M Simons wrote:

What do I do exactly to do chain stitches in the face?

23.03.2022 - 13:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs M Simons, when you work the part FACE of the dino, you now work in rows, not in the round, ie work 4 rows with 1 sc in each sc (with 1 chain stitch to turn with at the beg of every row), then increase in the first + in the last sc of each row on row 5 and 6 (you increase 2 sts x 2 rows = 4 sts in total). Then work 2 rows with 1 sc in each sc. Happy crocheting!

23.03.2022 kl. 14:13

country flag Barbara Huber wrote:

Guten Tag, entschuldigen Sie aber ich stehe völlig auf dem Schlauch bei dieser Anleitung. Ich habe die Schnauze gehäkelt und da ist ja nun die Arbeit geteilt. Kommt die Teilung nach oben oder unten? Ich vermute dass am Rücken zusammengenäht wird. Vielen Dank für Ihre Hilfe. Mit freundlichem Gruss Barbara Huber

24.02.2022 - 17:19

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Huber, also ja nach der Nase stricken Sie in Reihen, also von der vorrigen Rundanfang, aber jetzt wird es Hin- und zurück (bis zur Ende) gehäkelt, am Ende häkeln Sie Rücken zusammen - siehe unter RÜCKEN. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

24.02.2022 kl. 17:43

country flag Marija Jakopin wrote:

Great pattern. I got a bit confused at the point of 12 rows and 4 stitches left, but the result is super cute. Thank you, Garn Studio! :)

16.02.2022 - 16:06

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