DROPS / 226 / 45

Sky Feather by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS Sky and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with saddle-shoulders and cables. Sizes S - XXXL.

  • Sky Feather / DROPS 226-45 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Sky and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with saddle-shoulders and cables. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Sky Feather / DROPS 226-45 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Sky and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with saddle-shoulders and cables. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Sky Feather / DROPS 226-45 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Sky and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with saddle-shoulders and cables. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Sky Feather / DROPS 226-45 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Sky and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with saddle-shoulders and cables. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Sky Feather / DROPS 226-45 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Sky and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with saddle-shoulders and cables. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-138
Yarn group B + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g colour 15, aquamarine
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-125-125-150-150 g colour 06, blue mist

DROPS BUTTONS, Marble NO 629: 5-5-6-6-6-6 items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
15 stitches in width and 17 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 3.45 £ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 3.45 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 3.45 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 155 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 24) = 6. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 6th stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, knit together each 5th and 6th stitch.

INCREASE TIP-1 (neck):
Increase all purl-1 to purl-2 from the right side by making 1 yarn over after each purled stitch. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (right side):
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the right.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the back strand and knit in the front loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the left.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the front strand and knit in the back loop.

INCREASE TIP-3 (wrong side):
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the right.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the front strand and purl in the back loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the left.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the back strand and purl in the front loop.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 4 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 2. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures 8 cm. Then work the other 4-4-5-5-5-5 buttonholes with approx. 10-10-9-9-9½-10 cm between each one.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 6th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. Stitches are increased for the shoulders, the sleeves and then the yoke. The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth, with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down. The whole piece is worked with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands).

NECK:
Cast on 75-79-83-87-91-91 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards mid-front) with circular needle size 4.5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands).
Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, knit 1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib until there is 1 row left before the piece measures 8 cm and the next row is from the right side.
On the next row (right side) increase all purl-1 to purl-2 – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 107-113-119-125-131-131 stitches – remember the BUTTONHOLE on the right band – read description above.
The neck edge is done now.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side (bands in garter stitch and yarn overs purled twisted).

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Insert a marker after the band at the beginning of the row from the right side – THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
In addition, insert 4 other markers without working the stitches and inserting each marker between 2 stitches. The markers are used when increasing for the shoulders.
Marker 1: Count 18-20-21-21-22-22 stitches (= front piece), insert marker before the next stitch.
Marker 2: Count 22-22-22-26-26-26 stitches from marker 1 (= shoulder), insert marker before the next stitch.
Marker 3: Count 27-29-33-31-35-35 stitches from marker 2 (= back piece), insert marker before the next stitch.
Marker 4: Count 22-22-22-26-26-26 stitches from marker 3 (= shoulder), insert marker before the next stitch.
There are 18-20-21-21-22-22 stitches left for the front piece after marker 4.
Allow these 4 markers to follow your work onwards.

INCREASES TO SADDLE-SHOULDERS:
Read the whole section before continuing!
Continue with stocking stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side – in addition, work A.1 over the 22-22-22-26-26-26 shoulder-stitches on each side (between markers 1 and 2 and markers 3 and 4).
AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side increase 4 stitches for the shoulders as follows:
Increase BEFORE markers 1 and 3 and AFTER markers 2 and 4 – read INCREASE TIP-2. You are only increasing on the front and back pieces; the number of shoulder-stitches remains the same.
On the next row (from the wrong side) increase 4 stitches for the shoulders as follows:
Increase BEFORE markers 4 and 2 and AFTER markers 3 and 1 – read INCREASE TIP-3.
You are therefore increasing EVERY row, differently from the right and wrong side, so the stitches lie neatly.
Continue this pattern and increase like this every row (both from the right and wrong side) a total of 10-12-12-14-16-18 times = 147-161-167-181-195-203 stitches (the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
After the last increase, the piece measures approx. 6-7-7-8-9-11 cm from the marker on the neck.
Sizes M, L, XL and XXL go to sleeve increases. Sizes S and XXXL go straight to yoke increases (no increases on the sleeves).

SLEEVE INCREASES (Sizes M, L, XL and XXL):
Work stocking stitch and pattern as before. AT THE SAME TIME increase 4 stitches for the sleeves as follows:
Increase AFTER markers 1 and 3 and BEFORE markers 2 and 4 – remember INCREASE TIP-2.
You are now increasing only on the sleeves; the number of stitches on the front and back pieces remains the same. The increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch.
Increase like this every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of 3-3-3-3 times = 173-179-193-207 stitches. Continue with yoke increases as explained below.

YOKE INCREASES (all sizes):
The piece measures approx. 6-11-11-12-13-11 cm from the marker on the neck.
Move the 4 markers so each marker sits in the outermost stitch on each side of the front and back pieces. There are 22-28-28-32-32-26 stitches between the markers on each sleeve.
On the next row from the right side, increase 8 stitches by increasing both before and after all 4 marker-stitches – remember INCREASE TIP-2.
You are now increasing on the front/back pieces and on the sleeves; the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch.
Increase like this every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of 12-10-11-12-12-15 times = 243-253-267-289-303-323 stitches.
When all the increases are finished, the piece measures approx. 20-22-23-26-27-29 cm from the marker on the neck. If it is shorter than this, continue working to the correct length.
Now divide for the body and sleeves on the next row as follows: Work 38-40-41-45-48-52 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 50-52-56-60-60-62 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-8-10-12-14-16 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work 67-69-73-79-87-95 stitches (= back piece), place the next 50-52-56-60-60-62 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-8-10-12-14-16 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work 38-40-41-45-48-52 stitches (= front piece). Remove all markers.
The body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 155-165-175-193-211-231 stitches.
Insert 1 marker 41-44-46-51-55-60 stitches in from each side (= sides of body). There are 73-77-83-91-101-111 stitches between the markers on the back piece. Continue stocking stitch back and forth with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side towards mid front – in addition, work 6 garter stitches over both the markers (3 garter stitches on each side of the markers).
Continue working until the piece measures 21-21-22-19-20-20 cm from the division.
There is approx. 6 cm left to finished length; try the jacket on and work to desired length.
To avoid the following rib being tight, work 1 row from the right side where you increase 24-24-26-28-32-34 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 179-189-201-221-243-265 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work as follows from the wrong side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, purl 1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 6 cm. Cast off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP.
The jacket measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 50-52-56-60-60-62 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle size 5.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-8-10-12-14-16 stitches cast on under the sleeve, using 1 strand of each quality = 56-60-66-72-74-78 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6-8-10-12-14-16 stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Start the round at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round, with A.1 continuing over the middle 22-22-22-26-26-26 stitches on the sleeve.
When the sleeve measures 3-3-3-2-2-2 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3-3-3-2½-2½-2½ cm a total of 3-3-4-6-6-6 times = 50-54-58-60-62-66 stitches.
Continue working without further decreases until the sleeve measures 34-33-32-30-29-28 cm from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider shoulders). Knit 1 round where you decrease 10 stitches evenly spaced = 40-44-48-50-52-56 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 6 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP. The sleeve measures approx. 40-39-38-36-35-34 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On the next row work the yarn over as shown in the diagram to leave a hole
symbols = knit 3, pass the first stitch worked over the other 2, so it lies around them (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = this square has no stitch as it either does not exist or was decreased earlier; go straight to next symbol in the diagram
symbols = place 3 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
symbols = place 3 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
symbols = knitting direction
symbols = increases to saddle shoulders
symbols = increases to sleeves
symbols = increases to yoke
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 226-45) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (1)

country flag Catherine 02.11.2021 - 18:02:

Bonsoir pouvez vous m’envoyer les explications pour faire ce pull en français ? Merci

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