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 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
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Pinecone Set

Crochet hat and neck-warmer in DROPS Air. The piece is worked with relief-pattern.

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DROPS 225-20

#pineconeset

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-366
Yarn group C or A + A
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WHOLE SET:

SIZES:
Neck-warmer: S/M - M/L
Hat: One size
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-200 g colour 29, old pink

HAT:

SIZE:
One size.
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100 g colour 29, old pink

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 MM.

CROCHET TENSION:
16 treble crochets in width and 9 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.
12 rows of A.2 to A.4/relief-pattern = approx. 10 cm in height.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

NECK-WARMER:

SIZES:
S/M - M/L
Circumference: 57-63 cm. Length: 26-26 cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-150 g colour 29, old pink

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 MM.

CROCHET TENSION:
14 treble crochets in width and 8.5 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.
11 rows of A.2 to A.4/relief-pattern = approx. 10 cm in height.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Product image DROPS Air
DROPS Air
 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 3.70 € /50g
DROPS Needles & Hooks
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.80€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 5 wonderful yarns!
Valid until 31.05.2025

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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CHAIN STITCH:
If you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 double/treble crochet is wide.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
When working in the round (and turning after each round):
At the beginning of each round of treble crochets, work 3 chain stitches which do not replace the first treble crochet but are worked in addition. Finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch from the beginning of the round.
At the beginning of each round of double crochets, work 1 chain stitch which does not replace the first double crochet but is worked in addition. Finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch from the beginning of the round.

When working back and forth (applies to neck-warmer):
At the beginning of each row of treble crochets, work 3 chain stitches which do not replace the first treble crochet but are worked in addition.
At the beginning of each row of double crochets, work 1 chain stitch which does not replace the first double crochet but is worked in addition.

PATTERN:
Hat: See diagrams A.1 to A.5.
Neck-warmer: See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

DECREASE TIP-1:
Work 2 double crochets together as follows:
Insert the hook through the first stitch and pick up the strand, insert the hook through the second stitch and pick up the strand (= 3 loops on the hook), make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops on the hook (= 1 stitch decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2:
Work 2 treble crochets together as follows:
* Make 1 yarn over, insert the hook through the next stitch and pick up the strand, make 1 yarn over and pull it through the first 2 loops on the hook *, work from *-* a total of 2 times, make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops on the hook (= 1 stitch decreased).
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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HAT – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked bottom up in the round and turned after each round, so rounds are alternately worked from the right and wrong side.

HAT:
Work 81 chain stitches – read CHAIN STITCH with hook size 4.5 mm and DROPS Air, form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch.
Work 3 chain stitches – read CROCHET INFORMATION, work 1 treble crochet in each chain stitch and finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round = 80 treble crochets and 3 chain stitches to turn with.
Turn and work from the round with an arrow in A.1 (first round = right side) – turn after each round, so each round of double crochets is worked from the wrong side and each round of treble crochets and relief-pattern is worked from the right side.
When A.1 has been completed the piece measures approx. 4 cm.

Now work from the round marked with an arrow in A.2 as follows:
Work A.2 over the first stitch, A.3 over the next 76 stitches (= 19 repeats of 4 stitches), work the first 3 stitches in A.4 – last stitch in A.4 is equivalent to the stitch in A.2 (at the beginning of the round) and shows where relief-stitches will be worked, finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.
Turn and work the next round from the wrong side and continue back and forth like this, alternately from the right and wrong side, repeating A.x in height.
On rounds 3 and 7 work the last relief-stitch on the round around the treble crochet/relief-stitch at the beginning of the round (so the pattern continues all the way round).
REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
Continue the pattern until the piece measures 16 cm – finish after the first round in A.x, i.e. a round of double crochets from the wrong side, finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at the beginning of the round, then work 1 slip stitch in each of the 2 first double crochets. This is now the beginning of the round.
Work from the round with an arrow in A.5 = 10 repeats (the first rounds in the diagram show where the relief-stitches are worked). When A.5 has been completed in height there are 20 stitches. Work 1 round where all double crochets are worked together 2 and 2 – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 10 stitches. Work 1 round where all treble crochets are worked together 2 and 2 – read DECREASE TIP-2 = 5 treble crochets. Cut the strand, tack it through the remaining stitches, pull tight and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 25 cm from the top down.

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NECK-WARMER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is started back and forth in 2 sections until the split is finished. Then it is continued in the round, turning after each round so the texture remains the same as when working back and forth.

NECK-WARMER:
Work 46-50 chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn with) – read CHAIN STITCH with hook size 5 mm DROPS Air.
Turn and work the first row from the wrong side as follows: 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook (= 1 treble crochet + 3 chain stitches to turn with) – read CROCHET INFORMATION, work 1 treble crochet in each of the remaining 42-46 stitches = 43-47 treble crochets + 3 chain stitches.
Now work pattern as follows:
Start on the row with an arrow in A.1 and work A.1 until there is 1 treble crochet left, work the first stitch in A.1 so the pattern is symmetrical. Continue the pattern back and forth. On the last row in A.1 decrease 1-1 double crochet by working 2 double crochets together – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 42-46 double crochets + 3 chain stitches. The piece measures approx. 4 cm.
Continue as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Work A.2 over the first stitch, A.3 over the next 36-40 stitches (= 9-10 repeats of 4 stitches), A.4 over the next 4 stitches, 1 treble crochet in the last stitch.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work 1 double crochet in the first stitch, pattern as before over the next 41-45 stitches.
Continue this pattern until there are 2 rows left in A.2 to A.4. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
On the next row of double crochets decrease 1 double crochet at the beginning and end of the row (= 2 stitches decreased) – read DECREASE TIP = 40-44 double crochets + 1 chain stitch.
Lay the piece to one side and work another section in the same way.

Now work the 2 sections together, working pattern from the last row in A.2 to A.4 from the right side as follows:
Work A.2 over the first stitch, 9-10 repeats of A.3 and the first 2 stitches in A.3 over the last 3 stitches on the first section (the last relief-stitch is worked around the first relief-stitch on the second section), work the last stitch in A.3 over the first stitch on the second section, 1 repeat of A.3 on the second section (the first relief-stitch is worked in the last relief-stitch from the previous row at the end of the first section), work 8-9 repeats of A.3, the first 3 stitches in A.4 (the last relief-stitch is worked around the first stitch at the beginning of the first section) and finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round. There are 80-88 stitches and 20-22 squares of relief-stitches.
Turn and work the next round from the wrong side and continue back and forth like this, alternately from the right and wrong side, repeating A.x in height.
On round 7 work the last relief-stitch on the round around the treble crochet/relief-stitch at the beginning of the round (so the pattern continues all the way round).
When the piece measures 12-12 cm from the split – finish after a round of double crochets, work an edge as follows:
Start on the round with an arrow in A.1 and work A.1 over all stitches. When A.1 has been completed in height the piece measures 16-16 cm from the split and 26-26 cm from the cast-on edge. Cut and fasten the strand.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 19.12.2022
Correction diagram text 5th symbol: = Work 1 relief-triple-treble crochet ....

Diagram

start on this round; previous round already worked = start on this round; previous round already worked
1 treble crochet in stitch below = 1 treble crochet in stitch below
1 double crochet in stitch below = 1 double crochet in stitch below
1 relief-double-treble crochet: Work 1 double-treble crochet around 1 treble crochet/relief-stitch from the previous row/round of treble crochets/relief-stitches (work around the stitches not in the loops) = 1 relief-double-treble crochet: Work 1 double-treble crochet around 1 treble crochet/relief-stitch from the previous row/round of treble crochets/relief-stitches (work around the stitches not in the loops)
Work 1 relief-triple-treble crochet around 1 treble crochet from the previous row/round of treble crochets (work around the stitches not in the loops), but wait with the last yarn over (= 2 loops on the hook), work 1 treble crochet in the next stitch (= 2 loops on the hook). = Work 1 relief-triple-treble crochet around 1 treble crochet from the previous row/round of treble crochets (work around the stitches not in the loops), but wait with the last yarn over (= 2 loops on the hook), work 1 treble crochet in the next stitch (= 2 loops on the hook).
Work 1 relief-triple-treble crochet around 1 treble crochet from the previous row/round of treble crochets (work around the stitches not in the loops), on the last yarn over and pull-through pull the strand through all loops on the hook (i.e. this relief-stitch is worked together with the previous relief-stitch + treble crochet = 1 stitch).<br /> NOTE: When working in the round, work as follows at the end of the round: The last time you work this symbol on 3rd round in A.4, work around the first treble crochet at the beginning of the round. = Work 1 relief-triple-treble crochet around 1 treble crochet from the previous row/round of treble crochets (work around the stitches not in the loops), on the last yarn over and pull-through pull the strand through all loops on the hook (i.e. this relief-stitch is worked together with the previous relief-stitch + treble crochet = 1 stitch).
NOTE: When working in the round, work as follows at the end of the round: The last time you work this symbol on 3rd round in A.4, work around the first treble crochet at the beginning of the round.
Work 1 relief-triple-treble crochet around 1 relief-triple-treble crochet from the previous row/round of treble crochets (work around the stitches not in the loops of the relief-triple-treble crochet), wait with the last yarn over (= 2 loops on the hook), work 1 treble crochet in the next stitch (= 2 loops on the hook).<br /> NOTE - The last time you work this symbol on 5th row/round in A.4, work as follows: <br /> Working back and forth: Pull the strand through all loops on the hook when working the last treble crochet (= 1 stitch). <br /> Working in the round and turning after each round: Instead of working 1 treble crochet in the next stitch, work as follows: 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round and pull the strand through all loops on the hook (= 1 stitch). = Work 1 relief-triple-treble crochet around 1 relief-triple-treble crochet from the previous row/round of treble crochets (work around the stitches not in the loops of the relief-triple-treble crochet), wait with the last yarn over (= 2 loops on the hook), work 1 treble crochet in the next stitch (= 2 loops on the hook).
NOTE - The last time you work this symbol on 5th row/round in A.4, work as follows:
Working back and forth: Pull the strand through all loops on the hook when working the last treble crochet (= 1 stitch).
Working in the round and turning after each round: Instead of working 1 treble crochet in the next stitch, work as follows: 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round and pull the strand through all loops on the hook (= 1 stitch).
Work 1 relief-triple-treble crochet around 1 relief-triple-treble crochet from the previous row/round of treble crochets (work around the stitches not in the loops of the stitch), on the last yarn over pull the strand through all loops on the hook (i.e. this relief-stitch is worked together with the previous relief-stitch + treble crochet = 1 stitch). <br /> NOTE: The first time you work this symbol on 5th row/round in A.2, do not work this stitch together with another stitch as there are no more stitches (= 1 stitch). = Work 1 relief-triple-treble crochet around 1 relief-triple-treble crochet from the previous row/round of treble crochets (work around the stitches not in the loops of the stitch), on the last yarn over pull the strand through all loops on the hook (i.e. this relief-stitch is worked together with the previous relief-stitch + treble crochet = 1 stitch).
NOTE: The first time you work this symbol on 5th row/round in A.2, do not work this stitch together with another stitch as there are no more stitches (= 1 stitch).
work 2 treble crochets together = work 2 treble crochets together
Diagram for DROPS 225-20
Diagram for DROPS 225-20
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What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!
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Comments / Questions (35)

country flag Heidi wrote:

Har heklet A1 ferdig, men jeg kan tre den over hodet og bruke som hals. Jeg hekler ikke spesielt løst. Er det virkelig meningen at man skal legge opp 81 masker, eller skjer det noe magisk etter hvert som jeg fortsetter med A2? Når jeg strammer kan jeg ta av 24 masker hvis den skal passe rundt hodet. Hva har jeg gjort feil?

06.12.2023 - 14:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Heidi, det lyder som om at du hækler for løst (i forhold til opskriften) eller at garnet er for tykt... Hækler du i DROPS Air og har du 14 m på 10 cm?

07.12.2023 - 07:34

country flag Magda Kalse wrote:

Is there a video tutorial for this? I cannot seem to get the A2 and A34 part right at all!!!???? HELP, It does not make sense at all.....

11.06.2023 - 13:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Kalse, we don't have specific video for these diagrams, start with a.2 at the beg of the round, then repeat A.3 and end with A.4. In this video we show a similar pattern (but not exactly the same, so don't follow the video, but it might help you understanding how to work the stitches). Happy crocheting!

12.06.2023 - 08:57

country flag Liv Nymo wrote:

Skal starte på diagram A2. Pil. Kommer ikke i gang med staver og relieff trippelstav. Har bare en fastmaskerekke å ta fast i ? Siste omg A1. Skal det være både en stav og ei trippel relieffmaske i samme maske? Skal staver og relieffmasker hekles på samme omgang?

19.04.2023 - 17:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Liv. I diagramforklaringene til relieff stavene er det forklart at man skal hekle i forrige rad/omgangen med staver (ikke i raden under). Så når du skal hekle 1.rad/omgang med relieff-staver (du er nå i 3.rad/omgang i dagrammet), hekler du i 1.rad (og det hekles om selve staven, ikke i selve leddet). Når du f.eks hekler 3. rad/omgang hekles det staver og 2 ulike relieff-staver. Husk at hvordan du skal hekle en relieff-stav er det symbolet nederst på streken som gir deg forklaring på hvilken type relieff-stav det skal hekles. mvh DROPS Design

24.04.2023 - 11:06

country flag DANIELA ESPOSITO wrote:

Ma posso lavorare anche con L uncinetto n 3/3.50 con il PINOCONE SET?

27.12.2022 - 07:59

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Daniela, deve lavorare con l'uncinetto che le permette di ottenere il campione indicato. Buon lavoro!

27.12.2022 - 16:51

country flag Pauline wrote:

Bonjour, malgré les explications je ne comprend pas comment crocheter A2 A3 et A4. Je ne comprend pas le diagramme avec les brides reliefs qui forment le motif de triangle. Merci d'avance pour votre reponse

17.12.2022 - 20:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Pauline, ces mailles en relief se font aux tours de brides ( aux tours 3, 5 et 7), au tour 3 de A.3: crochetez 1 bride dans la 1ère bride, 1 triple-bride (correction faite) en relief autour de la bride indiquée par le carré (5ème symbole de la légende), 1 triple bride relief autour de la maille indiquée par le rond (6ème symbole), 1 bride dans chacune des 2 brides suivantes. Bon crochet!

19.12.2022 - 09:22

country flag Britzi wrote:

Zur Anleitung vom Kragenschal: ich verstehe die Arbeitsweise nach der zweiten Reihe nicht - weiter im Muster, bis noch 2 Reihen in A.2 bis A.4 übrig sind. Vie

07.11.2022 - 12:33

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Britzi, der Kragenschal häkeln Sie zuerst in 2 separate Teile, bei jedem Teil häkeln Sie dia Diagramme A.2-A.4 bis 2 Reihen noch übrig sind (= dh bis 5. Reihe einsschl.) dann häkeln Sie die 6. Reihe mit Abnahmen - und die Arbeit zur Seite legen, die 7. Reihe häkeln Sie dann über beide Teile wie bei dem nächsten Absatz. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

07.11.2022 - 16:09

country flag Marina wrote:

Hallo, de uitleg hoe je telpatronen A2, A3 en A4 moet haken is gewoon niet te begrijpen! Ik kijk wel op een andere website of in een boek met haaksteken hoe dit ruitjespatroon moet gemaakt worden. Zo spijtig voor jullie website.

22.09.2022 - 13:59

country flag Monique wrote:

Bij toer 5 loop ik toch weer vast…. Waarom moet de muts heen e n weer gehaakt? Dat maakt het patroon nog moeilijker! Dank voor hulp.

22.06.2022 - 21:57

country flag Monique wrote:

Na op internet diverse video”’s te hebben bekeken lukt het mij nu om de diamant steek op de goede manier te haken!

22.06.2022 - 14:24

country flag Monique wrote:

PS en zijn de 3 keerlossen van toer 2 het 1e stokje van toer 3? Hier begint al wat ik niet terug vind in de beschrijving . Dank u.

21.06.2022 - 14:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Monique,

Nee de 3 keerlossen worden aanvullend gehaakt, daarna haak je nog het eerste stokje van de volgende toer.

26.06.2022 - 10:10

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Pinecone Set

#pineconeset

Pinecone Set / DROPS 225-20 - Crochet hat and neck-warmer in DROPS Air. The piece is worked with relief-pattern.
 Pinecone Set / DROPS 225-20 - Crochet hat and neck-warmer in DROPS Air. The piece is worked with relief-pattern.

Crochet hat and neck-warmer in DROPS Air. The piece is worked with relief-pattern.

DROPS 225-20
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-366
Yarn group C or A + A
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WHOLE SET:

SIZES:
Neck-warmer: S/M - M/L
Hat: One size
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-200 g colour 29, old pink

HAT:

SIZE:
One size.
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100 g colour 29, old pink

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 MM.

CROCHET TENSION:
16 treble crochets in width and 9 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.
12 rows of A.2 to A.4/relief-pattern = approx. 10 cm in height.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

NECK-WARMER:

SIZES:
S/M - M/L
Circumference: 57-63 cm. Length: 26-26 cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-150 g colour 29, old pink

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 MM.

CROCHET TENSION:
14 treble crochets in width and 8.5 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.
11 rows of A.2 to A.4/relief-pattern = approx. 10 cm in height.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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CHAIN STITCH:
If you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 double/treble crochet is wide.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
When working in the round (and turning after each round):
At the beginning of each round of treble crochets, work 3 chain stitches which do not replace the first treble crochet but are worked in addition. Finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch from the beginning of the round.
At the beginning of each round of double crochets, work 1 chain stitch which does not replace the first double crochet but is worked in addition. Finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch from the beginning of the round.

When working back and forth (applies to neck-warmer):
At the beginning of each row of treble crochets, work 3 chain stitches which do not replace the first treble crochet but are worked in addition.
At the beginning of each row of double crochets, work 1 chain stitch which does not replace the first double crochet but is worked in addition.

PATTERN:
Hat: See diagrams A.1 to A.5.
Neck-warmer: See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

DECREASE TIP-1:
Work 2 double crochets together as follows:
Insert the hook through the first stitch and pick up the strand, insert the hook through the second stitch and pick up the strand (= 3 loops on the hook), make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops on the hook (= 1 stitch decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2:
Work 2 treble crochets together as follows:
* Make 1 yarn over, insert the hook through the next stitch and pick up the strand, make 1 yarn over and pull it through the first 2 loops on the hook *, work from *-* a total of 2 times, make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops on the hook (= 1 stitch decreased).
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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HAT – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked bottom up in the round and turned after each round, so rounds are alternately worked from the right and wrong side.

HAT:
Work 81 chain stitches – read CHAIN STITCH with hook size 4.5 mm and DROPS Air, form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch.
Work 3 chain stitches – read CROCHET INFORMATION, work 1 treble crochet in each chain stitch and finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round = 80 treble crochets and 3 chain stitches to turn with.
Turn and work from the round with an arrow in A.1 (first round = right side) – turn after each round, so each round of double crochets is worked from the wrong side and each round of treble crochets and relief-pattern is worked from the right side.
When A.1 has been completed the piece measures approx. 4 cm.

Now work from the round marked with an arrow in A.2 as follows:
Work A.2 over the first stitch, A.3 over the next 76 stitches (= 19 repeats of 4 stitches), work the first 3 stitches in A.4 – last stitch in A.4 is equivalent to the stitch in A.2 (at the beginning of the round) and shows where relief-stitches will be worked, finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.
Turn and work the next round from the wrong side and continue back and forth like this, alternately from the right and wrong side, repeating A.x in height.
On rounds 3 and 7 work the last relief-stitch on the round around the treble crochet/relief-stitch at the beginning of the round (so the pattern continues all the way round).
REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
Continue the pattern until the piece measures 16 cm – finish after the first round in A.x, i.e. a round of double crochets from the wrong side, finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at the beginning of the round, then work 1 slip stitch in each of the 2 first double crochets. This is now the beginning of the round.
Work from the round with an arrow in A.5 = 10 repeats (the first rounds in the diagram show where the relief-stitches are worked). When A.5 has been completed in height there are 20 stitches. Work 1 round where all double crochets are worked together 2 and 2 – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 10 stitches. Work 1 round where all treble crochets are worked together 2 and 2 – read DECREASE TIP-2 = 5 treble crochets. Cut the strand, tack it through the remaining stitches, pull tight and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 25 cm from the top down.

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NECK-WARMER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is started back and forth in 2 sections until the split is finished. Then it is continued in the round, turning after each round so the texture remains the same as when working back and forth.

NECK-WARMER:
Work 46-50 chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn with) – read CHAIN STITCH with hook size 5 mm DROPS Air.
Turn and work the first row from the wrong side as follows: 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook (= 1 treble crochet + 3 chain stitches to turn with) – read CROCHET INFORMATION, work 1 treble crochet in each of the remaining 42-46 stitches = 43-47 treble crochets + 3 chain stitches.
Now work pattern as follows:
Start on the row with an arrow in A.1 and work A.1 until there is 1 treble crochet left, work the first stitch in A.1 so the pattern is symmetrical. Continue the pattern back and forth. On the last row in A.1 decrease 1-1 double crochet by working 2 double crochets together – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 42-46 double crochets + 3 chain stitches. The piece measures approx. 4 cm.
Continue as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Work A.2 over the first stitch, A.3 over the next 36-40 stitches (= 9-10 repeats of 4 stitches), A.4 over the next 4 stitches, 1 treble crochet in the last stitch.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work 1 double crochet in the first stitch, pattern as before over the next 41-45 stitches.
Continue this pattern until there are 2 rows left in A.2 to A.4. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
On the next row of double crochets decrease 1 double crochet at the beginning and end of the row (= 2 stitches decreased) – read DECREASE TIP = 40-44 double crochets + 1 chain stitch.
Lay the piece to one side and work another section in the same way.

Now work the 2 sections together, working pattern from the last row in A.2 to A.4 from the right side as follows:
Work A.2 over the first stitch, 9-10 repeats of A.3 and the first 2 stitches in A.3 over the last 3 stitches on the first section (the last relief-stitch is worked around the first relief-stitch on the second section), work the last stitch in A.3 over the first stitch on the second section, 1 repeat of A.3 on the second section (the first relief-stitch is worked in the last relief-stitch from the previous row at the end of the first section), work 8-9 repeats of A.3, the first 3 stitches in A.4 (the last relief-stitch is worked around the first stitch at the beginning of the first section) and finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round. There are 80-88 stitches and 20-22 squares of relief-stitches.
Turn and work the next round from the wrong side and continue back and forth like this, alternately from the right and wrong side, repeating A.x in height.
On round 7 work the last relief-stitch on the round around the treble crochet/relief-stitch at the beginning of the round (so the pattern continues all the way round).
When the piece measures 12-12 cm from the split – finish after a round of double crochets, work an edge as follows:
Start on the round with an arrow in A.1 and work A.1 over all stitches. When A.1 has been completed in height the piece measures 16-16 cm from the split and 26-26 cm from the cast-on edge. Cut and fasten the strand.

Diagram explanations
start on this round; previous round already worked = start on this round; previous round already worked
1 treble crochet in stitch below = 1 treble crochet in stitch below
1 double crochet in stitch below = 1 double crochet in stitch below
1 relief-double-treble crochet: Work 1 double-treble crochet around 1 treble crochet/relief-stitch from the previous row/round of treble crochets/relief-stitches (work around the stitches not in the loops) = 1 relief-double-treble crochet: Work 1 double-treble crochet around 1 treble crochet/relief-stitch from the previous row/round of treble crochets/relief-stitches (work around the stitches not in the loops)
Work 1 relief-triple-treble crochet around 1 treble crochet from the previous row/round of treble crochets (work around the stitches not in the loops), but wait with the last yarn over (= 2 loops on the hook), work 1 treble crochet in the next stitch (= 2 loops on the hook). = Work 1 relief-triple-treble crochet around 1 treble crochet from the previous row/round of treble crochets (work around the stitches not in the loops), but wait with the last yarn over (= 2 loops on the hook), work 1 treble crochet in the next stitch (= 2 loops on the hook).
Work 1 relief-triple-treble crochet around 1 treble crochet from the previous row/round of treble crochets (work around the stitches not in the loops), on the last yarn over and pull-through pull the strand through all loops on the hook (i.e. this relief-stitch is worked together with the previous relief-stitch + treble crochet = 1 stitch).<br /> NOTE: When working in the round, work as follows at the end of the round: The last time you work this symbol on 3rd round in A.4, work around the first treble crochet at the beginning of the round. = Work 1 relief-triple-treble crochet around 1 treble crochet from the previous row/round of treble crochets (work around the stitches not in the loops), on the last yarn over and pull-through pull the strand through all loops on the hook (i.e. this relief-stitch is worked together with the previous relief-stitch + treble crochet = 1 stitch). NOTE: When working in the round, work as follows at the end of the round: The last time you work this symbol on 3rd round in A.4, work around the first treble crochet at the beginning of the round.
Work 1 relief-triple-treble crochet around 1 relief-triple-treble crochet from the previous row/round of treble crochets (work around the stitches not in the loops of the relief-triple-treble crochet), wait with the last yarn over (= 2 loops on the hook), work 1 treble crochet in the next stitch (= 2 loops on the hook).<br /> NOTE - The last time you work this symbol on 5th row/round in A.4, work as follows: <br /> Working back and forth: Pull the strand through all loops on the hook when working the last treble crochet (= 1 stitch). <br /> Working in the round and turning after each round: Instead of working 1 treble crochet in the next stitch, work as follows: 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round and pull the strand through all loops on the hook (= 1 stitch). = Work 1 relief-triple-treble crochet around 1 relief-triple-treble crochet from the previous row/round of treble crochets (work around the stitches not in the loops of the relief-triple-treble crochet), wait with the last yarn over (= 2 loops on the hook), work 1 treble crochet in the next stitch (= 2 loops on the hook). NOTE - The last time you work this symbol on 5th row/round in A.4, work as follows: Working back and forth: Pull the strand through all loops on the hook when working the last treble crochet (= 1 stitch). Working in the round and turning after each round: Instead of working 1 treble crochet in the next stitch, work as follows: 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round and pull the strand through all loops on the hook (= 1 stitch).
Work 1 relief-triple-treble crochet around 1 relief-triple-treble crochet from the previous row/round of treble crochets (work around the stitches not in the loops of the stitch), on the last yarn over pull the strand through all loops on the hook (i.e. this relief-stitch is worked together with the previous relief-stitch + treble crochet = 1 stitch). <br /> NOTE: The first time you work this symbol on 5th row/round in A.2, do not work this stitch together with another stitch as there are no more stitches (= 1 stitch). = Work 1 relief-triple-treble crochet around 1 relief-triple-treble crochet from the previous row/round of treble crochets (work around the stitches not in the loops of the stitch), on the last yarn over pull the strand through all loops on the hook (i.e. this relief-stitch is worked together with the previous relief-stitch + treble crochet = 1 stitch). NOTE: The first time you work this symbol on 5th row/round in A.2, do not work this stitch together with another stitch as there are no more stitches (= 1 stitch).
work 2 treble crochets together = work 2 treble crochets together
Diagram for DROPS 225-20
Diagram for DROPS 225-20

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