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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= light brown mix | |
= light grey/green | |
= off-white | |
= brown mix | |
= K2 tog |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
First Snow Hat |
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Set of knitted jacket with raglan sleeves and turtle neck, hat and socks with Nordic pattern for baby and children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Baby 19-33 |
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JACKET: GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. PATTERN: See diagrams M.1 and M.2. Pattern is worked in stocking st. BUTTONHOLES: Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = K tog 2nd and 3rd st from mid front and make 1 YO. Make buttonholes when piece measures: SIZE 1/3 months: 2, 8, 14, 20 and 26 cm SIZE 6/9 months: 2, 8, 15, 21 and 28 cm SIZE 12/18 months: 2, 8, 14, 20, 26 and 32 cm SIZE 2 years: 2, 9, 16, 23, 30 and 36 cm SIZE 3/4 years: 2, 10, 17, 25, 32 and 39 cm The last buttonhole is made on neckline. --------------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------------------------------- BODY PIECE: Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 119-133-145 (159-171) sts (includes 4 front band sts each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with light brown mix. P 1 row from WS with 4 GARTER STS – see above – each side (front bands). Continue in rib as follows from RS: 4 front band sts in garter st, * K1/P1 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K1 and 4 front band sts in garter st – remember BUTTONHOLES on right front band. When rib measures 4 cm change to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work 1 row stocking st (with front bands in garter st as before), AT THE SAME TIME dec 12-14-14 (16-16) sts evenly (do not dec on front bands) = 107-119-131 (143-155) sts. Now continue in M.1 with 4 front band sts in garter st each side. After M.1 continue in stocking st and light brown mix with front bands in garter st as before. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 17-18-21 (24-26) cm - adjust so that next row is from RS - work next row as follows: 26-29-32 (35-38) sts (= front piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole, 43-49-55 (61-67) sts (= back piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole, 26-29-32 (35-38) sts (= front piece). Put piece aside and knit the sleeves. SLEEVE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 34-36-38 (38-38) sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with light brown mix. K 1 round and continue in rib, K1/P1. When rib measures 4 cm change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-6-2 (2-2) sts evenly = 30-30-36 (36-36) sts. Now work M.1. After M.1 continue in stocking st and light brown mix. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 5 cm inc 2 sts mid under sleeve. Repeat the inc on every 4-4-6 (6-6) round a total of 5-7-6 (8-10) times = 40-44-48 (52-56) sts. When piece measures 14-16-18 (22-26) cm (inc are now complete) cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve = 34-38-42 (46-50) sts left on needle. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve. YOKE: Slip sleeves on the same circular needle as body piece where cast off for armholes = 163-183-203 (223-243) sts. Continue back and forth on needle as follows: P 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 7-11-7 (11-7) sts evenly (do not dec on front bands) = 156-172-196 (212-236) sts. Work 0-1-2 (3-4) cm stocking st with light brown mix and work next row as follows from RS: 4 front band sts in garter st, M.2A on the next 144-160-184 (200-224) sts, M.2B (= 4 sts) and finish with 4 front band sts in garter st. Continue in pattern like this, AT THE SAME TIME dec sts in M.2 as per pattern diagram. After M.2 there are 81-89-101 (109-121) sts left on needle. P 1 row from WS with front band sts as before. Change to circular needle size 3.5 and work next row as follows from RS: 4 front band sts, * K1/P3 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K1 and 4 front band sts. When rib measures 1 cm dec all P3 to P2 and when rib measures 2 cm dec all P2 to P1 = 45-49-55 (59-65) sts on needle. Jacket now measures 28-30-34 (38-41) cm from cast on row to shoulder. Continue in rib K1/P1 for turtle neck (front bands as before). When rib measures 5-6-6 (7-7) cm from beg of rib make 1 buttonhole in line with the others on front band. When rib measures 6-7-7 (8-8) cm cast off with K over K and P over P. ASSEMBLY: Sew openings under sleeves. Sew on buttons. ---------------------------------------------------------------- HAT: PATTERN: See diagram M.3. Pattern is worked in stocking st. --------------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------------------------------- HAT: Worked in the round on needle from bottom up. Cast on 88-94-98 (104-106) sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with light brown mix. Work rib, K1/P1, until piece measures 4-5-5 (6-6) cm. K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 10-10-14 (14-16) sts evenly = 78-84-84 (90-90) sts. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Insert 6 markers in piece with 13-14-14 (15-15) sts between each marker. Work M.3A and then continue in stocking st and light brown mix - AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st to the right of all markers by K2 tog (= 6 dec sts per round). Repeat the dec (with 1 less st between each dec each time) on every other round another 3 times = 54-60-60 (66-66) sts. After the last round with dec work M.3B and then continue in stocking st and light brown mix, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st to the right of all markers (= 6 dec sts). K 1 round and work another round with dec as before = 42-48-48 (54-54) sts. Work M.3C and then continue in stocking st and light brown mix until finished measurements, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st to the right off all markers as before. Repeat the dec on every other round a total of 3-3-4 (4-5) times = 24-30-24 (30-24) sts on needle. K2 tog all the way round, cut the thread, pull it through remaining sts, tighten and fasten. POMPOM: Make 1 pompom in off-white with a diameter of approx 4 cm. Attach it to the top of hat. ------------------------------------------------------------------- SOCK: PATTERN: See diagram M.4. The pattern is worked in stocking st. HEEL DECREASES: ROW 1 (= RS): work row until 5-5-5 (6-6) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece. ROW 2 (= WS): work row until 5-5-5 (6-6) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece. ROW 3 (= RS): work until 4-4-4 (5-5) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece. ROW 4 (= WS): work row until 4-4-4 (5-5) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece. Continue dec like this with 1 less st between each dec until there are 7-9-9 (9-9) sts on needle. DECREASING TIP: Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog. Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso. --------------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------------------------------- SOCKS: Worked in the round on double pointed needles from top down. Cast on 34-34-40 (40-40) sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm with light brown mix. Work rib, K1/P1, for 4-4-5 (5-6) cm. K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 4 sts evenly = 30-30-36 (36-36) sts. Continue in M.4. After M.4 work 4 rounds stocking st with light brown mix, AT THE SAME TIME on first round (after M.4) dec 2-0-4 (2-0) sts evenly = 28-30-32 (34-36) sts. After the 4 rounds stocking st keep the first 15-17-17 (19-19) sts on needle for heel, and slip the remaining 13-13-15 (15-17) sts on a stitch holder (= mid upper foot). Work stocking st back and forth on heel sts for 3-3.5-4 (4-4.5) cm – insert a marker. Now work HEEL DECREASES – SEE ABOVE! After heel dec pick up 7-8-9 (9-10) new sts each side of heel and slip sts from stitch holder back on needle = 34-38-42 (42-46) sts. Continue in stocking st in the round on all sts with light brown mix, AT THE SAME TIME on first round dec as follows: K2 tog into back of loop before the 13-13-15 (15-17) sts mid upper foot and K2 tog after the 13-13-15 (15-17) sts mid upper foot. Repeat the dec on every other round a total of 4-6-6 (6-6) times = 26-26-30 (30-34) sts. When piece measures approx 8-9-9.5 (11.5-12.5) cm from marker on heel (approx 2-2-2.5 (2.5-3.5) cm remain) insert a new marker each side with 13-13-15 (15-17) sts on upper foot and under foot. Now dec for toes on each side of both markers – SEE DECREASING TIP – on every other round 2-2-3 (3-5) times and then on every round 3-3-3 (3-2) times = 6 sts left on needle. Cut the thread, pull it through remaining sts, tighten and fasten. Foot measures approx 10-11-12 (14-16) cm. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (30)
Susanne Lang wrote:
Hej, jeg kan ikke lige se hvordan der skal tages ind på bærestykket, jeg strikker den i mit eget mønster og er nået til der hvor man sætter ærmerne på rug og fodstykkerne, der hvor man har lukket de 6 masker af. Men der står bare at man skal tage ind i M 2. Men jeg kan ikke lige tyde hvor mange eller hvor jeg skal tage ind. Kan i hjælpe med det?
15.11.2020 - 14:03DROPS Design answered:
Hej Susanne, du kan se i M.2A at der bliver taget 1 maske ind på 1.pind ved at strikke 6masker og strikke de næste 2 sammen. På samme måde ser du på 5. pind i diagrammet hvor mange masker du skal have imellem indtagningerne. God fornøjelse!
18.11.2020 - 14:23Sonja wrote:
Hej, mit spørgsmål går ud på om man kan strikke den til en trøje i st 6-9 mdr ?
26.04.2020 - 16:05DROPS Design answered:
Hei Sonja. Ja, dette er en oppskrift til en trøye og til størrelse 6/9 mnd. Les i oppskriften og der finner du størrelsene fra 1/3 mnd opp til 3/4 år. God Fornøyelse!
27.04.2020 - 14:29Cerina wrote:
Hej! Jag förstår verkligen inte mössan. Efter det är minskat på sidan av markörerna så ska man fortsätta mönster. Men jag får inte till å stämma med mönstret, att d ligger så precis emellan varandra? Alltså att den vita hamnar mittemellan det mörkbruna.
10.12.2019 - 15:17DROPS Design answered:
Hej, Mönstret skapas helt automatiskt när man följer diagrammet. Så följ diagrammet för varje rad. Lycka till!
11.12.2019 - 09:00Nicole Anconina wrote:
Bonjour Encore une fois, je ne comprends pas le diagramme: lorsque j'ai fait 5 rangs, il faut 3 mailles entre les motifs . Il y a une diminution à faire sur les 5 mailles suivantes donc il reste 4 mailles sur lesquelles on doit faire la maille de la croix du motif précédent et celle du motif suivant: il me manque donc une maille sur les 3. Merci pour votre aide
30.10.2019 - 17:53DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Anconina, dans M.2A, on tricote d'abord sur 8 m: donc au 1er rang: 2 m ens à l'end, 6 m = il reste 7 m. Puis au 5ème rang, on tricote les 5 premières m comme dans le diagramme et on termine par 2 m ens à l'end = on a 6 mailles. Quand M.2A est terminé, il reste 4 m dans chaque M.2A. Bon tricot!
04.11.2019 - 13:45Jette wrote:
Der står at jakken skal strikkes i retstrik, altså ret både frem og tilbage. På billeder ser det ud til at være glatstrikning ?
02.07.2019 - 19:34DROPS Design answered:
Hej Jette. Det är kun forkantm som strikkes i retstrik, ellers strikkes den i glatstrik (förutom där det är rib). Lycka till!
03.07.2019 - 08:57Marjo wrote:
Bij het breien van de pas moet ik 11 steken minderen en komt mijn steken aantal zoals aangegeven op 172. Maar nu moet ik verder met M2A over 160 steken waar zijn dan de 12 steken gebleven. Ik kom er niet uit.
27.08.2017 - 11:35DROPS Design answered:
Hallo Marjo, Je breit eerst 4 voorbiessteken, dan M.2a over de volgende 160 stekn, dan M.2b over de volgende 4 steken, dan 4 voorbiesstken. Hiermee kom je in totaal op 172 steken.
28.08.2017 - 12:55Tina wrote:
Ich stricke die Jacke und bin bei der Passe zwei Reihen nach M2 angekommen. In der Anleitung steht 1cm * 1 re., 3 li.* stricken - heißt dass, das auf der Rückseite auch *1re.,3li.* gestrickt werden oder gespiegelt *1li., 3 re.*. Ich habe zum ersten Mal mit 2 Farben gestrickt, das Fair Isle Gestrickte ist ein wenig unregelmäßig geworden. Habt ihr einen Tipp, wie man die Jacke ein wenig glätten kann? Vielen Dank schonmal.
29.11.2015 - 23:58DROPS Design answered:
Es bedeutet, dass Sie im Rippenmuster 1 M re, 3 M li stricken, d.h. in der Rück-R entsprechend 3 M re und 1 M li, sodass also immer rechte M über rechten M liegen und linke M über linken. Glätten können Sie die Jacke, indem Sie sie am Ende etwas anfeuchten, vorsichtig in Form ziehen und dann trocknen lassen. Im Übrigen können Sie sich für die Norwegertechnik auch unsere Videos im Kopf neben dem Fotos anschauen.
05.12.2015 - 17:43Petra wrote:
Liebes Drops Design könnte ich Sie auch anrufen komme mit der Anleitung in der Passe gar nicht klar - wann stricke ich M2A und wann M2B. Ich kann dies nicht erkennen. Möchte diese Garnitur nächste Woche verschenken. Liebe Grüße
01.11.2015 - 18:52DROPS Design answered:
An dieser Stelle steht, wie Sie die beiden Muster verteilen: "4 Blendenm, M2A über die nächsten 144-160-184 (200-224) M., M2B (= 4 M.) und mit 4 Blendenm abschliessen." Sie stricken also nach den Blenden-M fortlaufend M2A, bis Sie noch 8 M übrig haben, dann stricken Sie M2B und 4 Blenden-M. Sie stricken M.2 1x in der Höhe und nehmen dabei wie im Diagramm gezeigt ab.
19.11.2015 - 09:46Pia Dahl Petersen wrote:
Kan ikke finde ud af om kraven skal lægges dobbelt og syes. Eller om det er en høj krave.
16.02.2014 - 10:58DROPS Design answered:
Hej Pia. Det er bare en almindelig rib krave, den er ikke höj eller dobbelt. Kraven bliver 6-7-7 (8-8) cm afhaengig af hvilken str du strikker. Du kan selvfölgelig altid tilpasse efter behov.
18.02.2014 - 15:51Renate wrote:
Hab vergessen, mich im voraus schon zu bedanken. Hol ich hiermit gerne nach und gehe erneut an mein Strickwerk. Danke.
16.11.2013 - 16:14