The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= 1 chain stitch | |
= begin here | |
= 4 chain stitches, form a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch made | |
= 1 slip stitch | |
= treble crochet in stitch | |
= treble crochet around ring/chain space | |
= work around this ring | |
= 1 double crochet with white | |
= 1 double crochet with mustard | |
= 1 double crochet with light ice blue | |
= 1 double crochet with spray blue |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Sweet Fedora |
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Crocheted hat with edge in multi-coloured pattern. Piece is crocheted in DROPS Paris.
DROPS 190-35 |
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INFORMATION FOR PATTERN: CROCHET INFO: Replace first treble crochet on round with 3 chain stitches, finish round with 1 slip stitch in third chain stitch at beginning of round. Replace first double crochet on round with 1 chain stitch, finish round with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round. COLOUR PATTERN: See diagram A.4. Diagram shows colours in pattern. 1 square = 1 double crochet. COLOUR CHANGE TIP: When changing colour work as follows: Work last double crochet with first colour but wait with last pull through, switch to next colour and work last pull through with the new colour, then work next double crochet. This way there will be a nice transition when changing colour. When working with two colours place strand for the colour not worked over stitches from previous round, work around the strand so that it is hidden and follows when working. ---------------------------------------------------------- HAT: Work in the round top down. Begin with a flat, oval top, then work down the hat (crown) before working an edge in multi-coloured pattern and then the brim. TOP OF HAT: Read CROCHET INFO! Begin at the arrow in the middle of A.1 and work on hook size 3 mm with white as follows: 4 chain stitches, form a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch worked, work 14 chain stitches, work 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch from hook. You now have a chain stitch row with a loop in each end. Work next round as follows: 1 slip stitch in the first of the 10 chain stitch on row, 3 chain stitch (= 1 treble crochet), 1 treble crochet in each of the next 9 chain stitches, work A.2 around loop (begin with 1st row in diagram), work 1 treble crochet in each of the 10 chain stitch (i.e. on opposite side of where 10 treble crochets were worked first), work A.3 around loop in the other side and finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning for round. Continue the pattern like this until 6 rounds have been worked in total. A.1 to A.3 are now done and there are 104 treble crochets on round in both sizes. Then work an edge at the top around the hat as explained below. EGDE AT THE TOP AROUND HAT: Work 1 round treble crochets with 1 treble crochet in every treble crochet and 4 treble crochet in the chain space in the middle of A.2 (work 1 treble crochet in both the first and the last chain stitch and 2 treble crochets in the middle chain stitch), but on this round work only in front loop of stitch (stitch loop closest to you) = 108 treble crochets on round. Insert 1 marker thread between 2 treble crochets in the middle of A.2 (= mid front of hat) and move the marker thread upwards when working. Work 1 more round with treble crochets but now work every treble crochet through both the treble crochet from previous round (through both front and back loop) and in addition through stitch loop visible on the wrong side of piece. This gives a more distinct edge around the top part of hat. Then work the crown as explained below: CROWN: Work treble crochets in the round with 1 treble crochet in every treble crochet (work through both stitch loops). AT THE SAME TIME on 1st round increase 1 treble crochet mid front by working 2 treble crochets in last treble crochet before marker thread. Increase like this 4-8 times in total in S/M: On every other round, and in L/XL: On every round = 112-116 treble crochets. NOTE: When increasing work 2 treble crochets alternately in first treble crochet after marker thread and last treble crochet before marker thread. When piece measures 6-7 cm from edge at the top, work COLOUR PATTERN – see explanation above (= 28-29 repetitions of 4 stitches) and read COLOUR CHANGE TIP. NOTE: On 2nd and 7th round work in back loop of stitch from previous round. AT THE SAME TIME on last round in A.4 increase 0-4 double crochets evenly (increase 1 double crochet by working 2 double crochets in 1 stitch) = 112-120 double crochets. When A.4 is done, work the brim with white as explained below. BRIM: Remember CROCHET INFO! ROUND 1: * Work 1 treble crochet in the first 7-7 double crochets, 2 treble crochets in next double crochet *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 126-135 treble crochets. ROUND 2: Work 1 treble crochet in every treble crochet. ROUND 3: * Work 1 treble crochet in the first 8-8 treble crochets, 2 treble crochets in next treble crochet *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 140-150 treble crochets. ROUND 4: * Work 1 treble crochet in the first 9-9 treble crochets, 2 treble crochets in next treble crochet *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 154-165 treble crochets. ROUND 5: Work 1 treble crochet in every treble crochet. ROUND 6: Work 1 double crochet in every treble crochet = 154-165 double crochets. Fasten off. Brim measures approx. 5 cm. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11428 patterns - 11428 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (27)
Cayherine wrote:
Please explain how to work A2. I do not understand the chains on top of the double crochet around the ring are the adding stitches for every round. Thank you very much
03.12.2020 - 23:08DROPS Design answered:
Dear Cayherine, A.2 will be worked around loop at one end of the foundation row. on row 1 in A.2 work: 3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc (US-crochet terms / tr Uk-crochet terms) around the ring. on row 2 work 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc, around the 2-ch-space work: 3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc, and 1 dc in each of the last 3 dc. And continue like this, there should be 1 dc in each of the dc from previous round and 3 dc,2ch, 3 dc around the 2-ch-sp from previous round. Happy crocheting!
04.12.2020 - 07:53Anna Paola Majer wrote:
Buonasera, ho ultimato lo schema A1,2,3, facendo un bordo, che ha piegato il lavoro in dentro; ora però cosa significa "Lavorare 1 altro giro di maglie alte ma lavorare ora tutte le maglie alte puntando l’uncinetto nelle maglie del giro precedente (quindi attraverso il filo davanti e quello dietro delle maglie) e anche attraverso il filo visibile sul rovescio del lavoro"? Devo fare un altro bordo? Grazie!
15.07.2020 - 22:33DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Anna Paola. Al giro precedente, ha lavorato puntando l'uncinetto attraverso 1 solo filo della maglia; questo dovrebbe averle lasciato un filo visibile. Al giro che sta lavorando, deve puntare l'uncinetto attraverso i due fili della maglia ma anche attraverso questo filo visibile. Si forma così quel bordo più marcato che delimita la parte sopra del cappello. Buon lavoro!
16.07.2020 - 15:56Sabine Motti wrote:
Liebes Drops-Team, das Häkeln des Hutes hat viel Freude bereitet. Er ist tatsächlich relativ fest und die Krempe wölbt sich wie selbstverständlich nach oben. Dankeschön für diese Anleitung. :-)
18.06.2020 - 20:44Sabine Motti wrote:
Liebes Drops-Team! Für die Fertigung der KREMPE heißt es: "1. RUNDE: * je 1 Stäbchen in die 7-7 ersten Stäbchen, 2 Stäbchen in das nächste Stäbchen " - doch zuvor wurden gar keine Stäbchen gehäkelt, sondern feste Maschen. Oder habe ich etwas übersehen? Dank vorab!
17.06.2020 - 17:28DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Motti, Sie sind ja recht, Anleitug wird korrigiert, danke für den Hinweis. Viel Spaß bei häkeln!
18.06.2020 - 09:24Martine De Jager wrote:
Ik heb een vraag over dit patroon van Sweet Fedora 190/35. Ik heb nu al meerdere malen de rand geprobeerd te haken, maar het lukt me niet. Ik snap het niet helemaal. Een stokje door de voorste lus van de vorige toer snap ik, maar dan? Nog een stokje door beide lussen én de lus van de vorige toer? Van alles geprobeerd. Kunt u het mij laten zien? Met vriendelijke groeten, Martine de Jager
17.04.2020 - 15:56DROPS Design answered:
Dag Martine,
De eerste toer haak je de stokjes alleen door de voorste lus van de steek en op de tweede toer haakje ieder stokje door beide lussen van de vorige toer (er stond beide stokjes, maar dat is fout; er moet staan beide lussen, dat is nu gecorrigeerd.)
18.11.2020 - 23:42Giusta wrote:
Ho fatto 3 cappelli per mia figlia e i miei nipotini poi irrigiditi con la colla vinilica bellissimi
03.09.2019 - 17:26Bénédicte wrote:
Bonjour, faut-il utiliser un double fil pour ce chapeau? J'ai commencé avec un seul fil mais je trouve que le résultat est beaucoup trop mou... Merci pour votre réponse
17.06.2019 - 15:42DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Bénédicte, on ne crochète qu'avec un seul fil Paris, mais vous devez avoir le bon échantillon soit 20 brides x 11 rangs = 10 x 10 cm - ajustez la taille du crochet si besoin, et pensez surtout à bien conserver la même tension lors de la réalisation du chapeau. Bon crochet!
17.06.2019 - 15:46Aleta wrote:
Grazie per la vostra risposta! Un'ultima domanda: nel diagramma A.2, tra la terza e la quarta maglia alta intorno all'anello di catenelle, devo fare 3 catenelle? Grazie e complimenti per i vostri video tutorial.
08.06.2019 - 18:48DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Aleta. Sì ci sono 3 catenelle tra la terza e la quarta maglia alta. Buon lavoro!
08.06.2019 - 21:27Aleta wrote:
Buongiorno, come mai nel diagramma A.2 le maglie alte da lavorare intorno all'anello di catenelle sono 6 e invece nel diagramma A.3 sono 8? Grazie mille
08.06.2019 - 08:55DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Aleta. La parte dove lavora il diagramma A.2 è quella del davanti, mentre quella del diagramma A.3 è quella del dietro: la parte dietro deve essere più ampia di quella del davanti e quindi necessita di un numero maggiore di maglie. Buon lavoro!
08.06.2019 - 09:45Yvonne wrote:
Was bedeutet bei der Krempe "je 1 Stäbchen in die 7-7 ersten Stäbchen" die 7-7? Etwa je 1 Stäbchen in die 7 ersten Stäbchen, etc? Vielen Dank im vorraus
17.05.2019 - 19:15DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Yvonne, die Mütze kommt in 2 Größe deshalb wird es 2 Mal hier "7" geschrieben, in beiden Größen werden Sie je 1 Stäbchen in die 7 ersten Stäbchen häkeln, aber am Ende der Runde haben Sie entweder 126 Stb (=1. Größe) oder 135 Stäbchen (= 2. Größe). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!
20.05.2019 - 09:07