DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.60 € /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.80€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425
  1. Free patterns
  2. Men
  3. Jumpers
  4. DROPS
  5. 233
  6. 24

Variety

Knitted jumper for men in DROPS Lima or DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked top down, with European/diagonal shoulders, relief pattern and double neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

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Highlight Size:
DROPS 233-24

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DROPS Design: Pattern li-155
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
900-1000-1050-1150-1250-1350 g colour 0206, wheat

Or use:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
900-1000-1050-1150-1250-1350 g colour 77, light oak

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.60 € /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.80€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE TIP FROM THE RIGHT SIDE:
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the left.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the front and knit the back loop.
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the right.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from behind and knit the front loop.

INCREASE TIP FROM THE WRONG SIDE:
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the left.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the back and purl the front loop.
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the right.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the front and purl the back loop.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The upper part of back piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down until the armholes are finished. Stitches are knitted up along each shoulder for the front piece, then cast on for the neck and the front piece continued back and forth with circular needle until the armholes are finished. The front and back pieces are joined and the body is continued in the round with circular needle. Stitches are knitted up around the armholes, the sleeve caps worked back forth, then the sleeves are continued in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles. The neck is worked to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 39-39-43-43-47-47 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and DROPS Lima or DROPS Karisma. Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Insert 1 marker, inside the outermost 3 stitches on each side. The markers remain inside these 3 stitches onwards.
Work the first row from the right side as follows: Work A.1A, increase AFTER the marker at the beginning of the row – read INCREASE TIP FROM THE RIGHT SIDE, work A.1B 8-8-9-9-10-10 times, A.1C and increase BEFORE the marker at the end of the row – remember INCREASE TIP FROM THE RIGHT SIDE.
On the next row (wrong side) increase in the same way – read INCREASE TIP FROM THE WRONG SIDE.
Continue the pattern and increase both from the right and wrong side a total of 30-34-36-40-42-46 times – work the increased stitches into A.1B, making sure there are at least 3 stocking stitches outermost on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
NOTE: When A.1A, A.1B and A.1C are finished in height, repeat A.1 in height, with room for 4 more repeats of A.1B in width each time A.1 is repeated.
After the last increase there are 99-107-115-123-131-139 stitches and the piece measures approx. 11-12-13-14-15-16 cm from the cast-on edge.
Continue the pattern until the armholes measure 10-10-10-10-11-12 cm (the piece measures approx. 21-22-23-24-26-28 cm from the cast-on edge mid-back) – finish after a row from the wrong side.
Work A.2 back and forth over all stitches.
When A.2 is finished, work as follows from the right side: 1 stocking stitch, A.3A, A.3B 11-12-13-14-15-16 times, A.3C, 1 stocking stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the armhole measures 19-20-20-21-22-23 cm, cut the strand and place the stitches on an extra needle or thread. The armholes are finished (A.3 is continued on the body).

FRONT PIECE:
Start on the right shoulder (when the garment is worn).
Knit up from the right side 30-34-36-40-42-46 stitches inside 1 stitch along the right shoulder on back piece (i.e. knit up 1 stitch in each row along the top edge).
Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Work the next row from the right side as follows (from the armhole):

S, M, XXL and XXXL:
3 stocking stitches, work A.1B until there are 3 stitches left, 3 stocking stitches.

L and XL:
3 stocking stitches, work A.1B until there are 5 stitches left, work the first 2 stitches in A.1B, 3 stocking stitches.

ALL SIZES:
Continue the pattern back and forth.
When the piece measures 5 cm from the shoulder, increase 1 stitch for the neck before the 3 last stitches on each row from the right side, remember INCREASE TIP FROM THE RIGHT SIDE! Increase like this a total of 6-6-7-7-8-8 times – work the increased stitches into A.1B, making sure you have at least 3 stocking stitches outermost by the neck. After the last increase there are 36-40-43-47-50-54 stitches. Cut the strand after the final increase from the right side. Place the stitches on an extra needle or thread and work the left front shoulder.

Knit up from the right side 30-34-36-40-42-46 stitches inside 1 stitch along the left back shoulder (i.e. knit up 1 stitch in each row along the top edge).
Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Work the next row from the right side as follows (from the neck):

S, M, XXL and XXXL:
3 stocking stitches, work A.1D until there are 3 stitches left, 3 stocking stitches.

L and XL:
3 stocking stitches, work A.1E until there are 5 stitches left, work the first 2 stitches in A.1E, 3 stocking stitches.

ALL SIZES:
Continue the pattern back and forth.
When the piece measures 5 cm from the shoulder, increase 1 stitch for the neck after the 3 first stitches on each row from the right side, remember INCREASE TIP FROM THE RIGHT SIDE! Increase like this a total of 6-6-7-7-8-8 times – work the increased stitches into A.1D/A.1E, making sure you have at least 3 stocking stitches outermost by the neck. After the last increase there are 36-40-43-47-50-54 stitches.
Work the next row from the wrong side as follows: Work pattern as before over the 36-40-43-47-50-54 stitches from the left front piece, cast on 27-27-29-29-31-31 stitches for the neck, work pattern as before over the 36-40-43-47-50-54 stitches from the right front piece = 99-107-115-123-131-139 stitches.
Continue A.1 back and forth until the piece measures 16-16-18-18-19-20 cm from the shoulder – finish after a row from the wrong side as on the back piece.
Insert 1 marker outermost on the armhole, 3-3-4-4-4-4 cm below the knitted up stitches on the shoulder.
Control the length of the garment by folding it at the longest point, innermost on the shoulder and the marker on the armhole, to make sure A.1 matches in length on the front and back pieces. This is important so the pattern matches at the sides when the pieces are joined. Adjust the length of A.1 if necessary.
Work A.2 back and forth over all stitches.
When A.2 is finished, work the next row from the right side as follows: 1 stocking stitch, A.3A, A.3B 11-12-13-14-15-16 times, A.3C, 1 stocking stitch.
Continue this pattern until the piece measures 25-26-28-29-30-31 cm, measured along the armhole (A.3 is continued on the body, finish on the same row as on the back piece so the pattern matches when the pieces are joined).
The pieces are now joined for the body as described below.

BODY:
Work pattern as before over the 99-107-115-123-131-139 stitches on the front piece, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-14 stitches (in side under sleeve), work pattern as before over the 99-107-115-123-131-139 stitches from the back piece, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-14 stitches (in side under sleeve) = 210-226-246-262-282-306 stitches.
Finish A.3 in the round – the cast-on stitches under each sleeve are worked in stocking stitch until A.3 is finished.
Work A.4 – AT THE SAME TIME, on the first round increase 0-2-0-2-0-0 stitches evenly spaced = 210-228-246-264-282-306 stitches.
On the next-to-last round in A.4, increase 30-32-34-36-38-38 stitches evenly spaced = 240-260-280-300-320-344 stitches (this is because the pattern contracts the piece).

When A.4 is finished, work A.5 over all stitches. Repeat A.5 in height until the piece measures 41-43-45-46-46-48 cm from the highest part of the shoulder by the neck (A.5 is worked approx. 3-4-4-4-4-4 times in height and the body measures approx. 19-21-21-20-20-20 cm from the cast-on stitches in each side). On the last round in A.5, decrease 28-32-36-36-40-40 stitches evenly spaced = 212-228-244-264-280-304 stitches.
Work A.6 over all stitches.
When A.6 is finished, work A.1B over all stitches and until the piece measures 57-59-61-63-65-67 cm from the highest part of the shoulder by the neck – finish after 2 or 3 rounds of stocking stitch after a purled round. Knit 1 round and increase 40-44-48-52-60-60 stitches evenly spaced = 252-272-292-316-340-364 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 5 cm. Cast off a little loosely. The jumper measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm, measured from the highest point on the front piece.

RIGHT SLEEVE:
Use circular needle size 4 mm and knit up, from the right side, 40-42-42-44-46-48 stitches from the bottom of the armhole, up the back piece to the top of the shoulder and 52-54-58-60-62-64 stitches from the shoulder, down the front piece to the bottom of the armhole = 92-96-100-104-108-112 stitches.
Insert 1 marker-thread in the middle of the row – this is used when counting out for the start of the pattern and also to measure from. Start on the wrong side with row 2 in A.4, work back and forth – the marker-thread should match the symbol in A.4.
When the sleeve measures 1-1-2-2-2-3 cm, join the piece and finish the sleeve in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles. When A.4 is finished, work A.1B.
When the sleeve measures 3-5-3-6-5-2 cm from the join, decrease 2 stitches mid-under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP.
Decrease like this every 2½-2-2-1½-1½-1½ cm a total of 19-21-22-23-25-26 times = 54-54-56-58-58-60 stitches. Work until the sleeve measures 51-50-48-47-46-44 cm from the join. There is 5 cm left; try the jumper on and work to desired length before the rib. Knit 1 round and increase 18-18-20-18-18-20 stitches evenly spaced = 72-72-76-76-76-80 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 5 cm. Cast off a little loosely. The sleeve measures approx. 57-56-55-54-53-52 cm from the knitted-up stitches.
Sew the bottom of the armhole – see sketch.

LEFT SLEEVE:
Use circular needle size 4 mm and knit up from the right side 52-54-58-60-62-64 stitches from the bottom of the armhole and up the front piece, then 40-42-42-44-46-48 stitches from the shoulder down the back piece = 92-96-100-104-108-112 stitches.
Insert a marker-thread in the middle of the row. Now work the sleeve in the same way as the right sleeve.

NECK:
Start on one shoulder and knit up from the right side, inside 1 edge stitch, 116 to 136 stitches with short circular needle size 3 mm. The stitch-number should be divisible by 4. Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 12 cm.
Fold the neck double to the inside and fasten with 1 stitch at each shoulder.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, which is worked twisted on the next row to avoid a hole (work in the back loop, the stitch twists to the left seen from the right side)
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row slip the yarn over off the left needle and place it back the other way around (insert the needle from the back when replacing it). Work the front loop to avoid a hole (the stitch twists to the right seen from the right side)
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = place 1 stitch on cable needle behind the piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = place 1 stitch on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted-together stitches
symbols = marks the marker-thread on sleeve
symbols = bottom of armhole sewn together: b to B
symbols = pick up stitches for left shoulder at the front (d) along left shoulder at the back (D), pick up stitches for right shoulder at the front (e) along right shoulder back (E)
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (16)

country flag Marc Christine wrote:

Mon emmanchure fait plus de 10cm ( 13 cm environ) malgré que mes augmentations ne sont pas encore terminées. Est ce un problème pour la suite ? Merci de votre réponse.

23.09.2024 - 15:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Marc, mesurez-vous bien au bon endroit? Les 10 cm d'emmanchure en taille S correspondent à environ 21 cm depuis le rang de montage de l'encolure dos; autrement dit, jusqu'aux augmentations, vous devez avoir 11 cm et après les augmentations vous tricotez encore 10 cm. Notez que la tension en hauteur doit être de 28 rangs jersey = 10 cm pour que les mesures soient justes. Bon tricot!

23.09.2024 - 16:46

country flag Henriette Bildt Pedersen wrote:

Ka’ simpelhen ikk finde diagram A1…ka’ I hjælpe? 😊

22.07.2024 - 20:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Henriette, du finder diagrammerne nederst i opskriften, A.1A, A.1B og A.1C er på samme række :)

01.08.2024 - 08:11

country flag Sally Woodhead wrote:

Hi, I am just starting the first sleeve. I have inserted a marker thread at the bottom of the sleeve opening but I don’t know where to start A4. Can you help? Thanks

21.07.2024 - 11:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sally, the sleeve is worked as it was knitted up, (from the bottom of the sleeve opening, up the back piece to the top of the shoulder and down the front piece to the bottom of the armhole). The start of the rounds will be in the mid under the sleeve, and the middle of the row is approx. the mid upper sleeve. Now work A.4, ensuring that the marker in the mid upper sleeve is exactly where the black arrow is in A.4. So, you need to count outwards from there, adding repeats on each side, to see in which stitch of A.4 to begin and end the round. You can read the following lesson for more info: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=39&cid=19. Happy knitting!

22.07.2024 - 01:54

country flag Monica Langeland wrote:

Da prøver jeg igjen. Jeg strikker herregenser str L Har strikket bakstykket og 2 framstykker. Setter sammen de 2 foran med 43 masker på hver pinne. Legger opp 29 masker (hals) og får da 115 masker. Som er riktig i oppskriften. Når jeg fortsetter med det mønster jeg holder på med (A1) så får jeg det ikke til å stemme. Hva har jeg gjort galt? Det skal jo ikke være 3 masker glattstrikk i ytterkantene her? Eller 🤷‍♀️

26.06.2024 - 12:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Monica, jo når du har sat stykkerne sammen, strikker du mønsteret helt ud i siderne, det er her du skal sørge for at du har strikket lige langt som på bagstykket, så du kan sætte arbejdet sammen under ærmerne :)

27.06.2024 - 07:41

country flag Monica Langeland wrote:

Hei. Jeg får ikke mønsteret til å stemme når jeg har øket 29 masker for hals, og har totalt 115 masker. Str L herregenser

26.06.2024 - 11:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Monica, kan du beskrive mere nøjagtig hvor langt du er kommet i opskriften og hvad du ikke får til at stemme?

26.06.2024 - 11:58

country flag Sally Woodhead wrote:

Hi, I'm so lost with the zigzag pattern on the back. I've unravelled and re-knitted the back four times now but keep getting the pattern wrong. Do you have written versions of the charts? I haven't used charts before. Thanks!

28.05.2024 - 11:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Woodhead, this lesson explains how to read diagrams - note that from WS you will read them from the left towards the right. Happy knitting!

28.05.2024 - 15:25

country flag Louise Dufresne wrote:

Quand c’est écrit de continuer À.1 , quel est ce À. 1 ?

30.03.2024 - 16:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Dufresne, les diagrammes sont numérotés à partir de A.1 jusqu'à A.6, autrement dit, lorsque vous tricotez A.1, reportez-vous au diagramme correspondant en bas de la page: soit A.1A, A.1B, A.1C. Bon tricot!

02.04.2024 - 14:28

country flag Manuela Billat wrote:

Bonjour, j'ai un doute concernant le relevage des mailles de l'emmanchure. Je pars du bas, mais nous avons une dizaine de mailles horizontales sous l'emmanchure. Doit on partir du milieu de ce "plat" pour remonter en relevant les mailles de la manche ? Merci :)

28.03.2024 - 14:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Billat, on ne relève pas de mailles dans celles montées lorsque l'on a réunit le dos et le devant, les premiers centimètres de la manche seront ensuite cousu le long de ces mailles - cf b et B dans le schéma. Bon tricot!

02.04.2024 - 13:46

country flag Alison wrote:

Hello again, thank you for your reply to my first question. I have another problem. I have followed instructions for the back until the armhole measures 20cm (finishing after row 18 of A3) and have knitted the front until the armhole measures 16cm. I don’t understand instructions to control the length? On the back the armhole knitted in A1 is 10cm but on the front it is 16cm. How can the pattern match? Please help!

20.01.2024 - 17:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Alison, the front piece is longer than the back piece, armhole on front piece will be 26 cm (to get a total of 23 cm for the armhole when jumper is done), work the different diagram exactly as explained to get the pattern matching. Happy knitting!

22.01.2024 - 08:28

country flag Alison wrote:

Hello Can you please help me with A3A, A3B and A3C? I don’t understand the pattern. What do I do when there is a black line over two stitches before make 1 yarn over?

10.01.2024 - 20:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Alison, The diagonal lines over 2 squares mean "K2 together" when the line goes from bottom left to top right, and "slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass slipped stitch over" when the line goes from top left to bottom right. Happy knitting!

11.01.2024 - 07:44

Variety



Knitted jumper for men in DROPS Lima or DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked top down, with European/diagonal shoulders, relief pattern and double neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 233-24
DROPS Design: Pattern li-155
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
900-1000-1050-1150-1250-1350 g colour 0206, wheat

Or use:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
900-1000-1050-1150-1250-1350 g colour 77, light oak

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE TIP FROM THE RIGHT SIDE:
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the left.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the front and knit the back loop.
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the right.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from behind and knit the front loop.

INCREASE TIP FROM THE WRONG SIDE:
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the left.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the back and purl the front loop.
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the right.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the front and purl the back loop.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The upper part of back piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down until the armholes are finished. Stitches are knitted up along each shoulder for the front piece, then cast on for the neck and the front piece continued back and forth with circular needle until the armholes are finished. The front and back pieces are joined and the body is continued in the round with circular needle. Stitches are knitted up around the armholes, the sleeve caps worked back forth, then the sleeves are continued in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles. The neck is worked to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 39-39-43-43-47-47 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and DROPS Lima or DROPS Karisma. Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Insert 1 marker, inside the outermost 3 stitches on each side. The markers remain inside these 3 stitches onwards.
Work the first row from the right side as follows: Work A.1A, increase AFTER the marker at the beginning of the row – read INCREASE TIP FROM THE RIGHT SIDE, work A.1B 8-8-9-9-10-10 times, A.1C and increase BEFORE the marker at the end of the row – remember INCREASE TIP FROM THE RIGHT SIDE.
On the next row (wrong side) increase in the same way – read INCREASE TIP FROM THE WRONG SIDE.
Continue the pattern and increase both from the right and wrong side a total of 30-34-36-40-42-46 times – work the increased stitches into A.1B, making sure there are at least 3 stocking stitches outermost on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
NOTE: When A.1A, A.1B and A.1C are finished in height, repeat A.1 in height, with room for 4 more repeats of A.1B in width each time A.1 is repeated.
After the last increase there are 99-107-115-123-131-139 stitches and the piece measures approx. 11-12-13-14-15-16 cm from the cast-on edge.
Continue the pattern until the armholes measure 10-10-10-10-11-12 cm (the piece measures approx. 21-22-23-24-26-28 cm from the cast-on edge mid-back) – finish after a row from the wrong side.
Work A.2 back and forth over all stitches.
When A.2 is finished, work as follows from the right side: 1 stocking stitch, A.3A, A.3B 11-12-13-14-15-16 times, A.3C, 1 stocking stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the armhole measures 19-20-20-21-22-23 cm, cut the strand and place the stitches on an extra needle or thread. The armholes are finished (A.3 is continued on the body).

FRONT PIECE:
Start on the right shoulder (when the garment is worn).
Knit up from the right side 30-34-36-40-42-46 stitches inside 1 stitch along the right shoulder on back piece (i.e. knit up 1 stitch in each row along the top edge).
Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Work the next row from the right side as follows (from the armhole):

S, M, XXL and XXXL:
3 stocking stitches, work A.1B until there are 3 stitches left, 3 stocking stitches.

L and XL:
3 stocking stitches, work A.1B until there are 5 stitches left, work the first 2 stitches in A.1B, 3 stocking stitches.

ALL SIZES:
Continue the pattern back and forth.
When the piece measures 5 cm from the shoulder, increase 1 stitch for the neck before the 3 last stitches on each row from the right side, remember INCREASE TIP FROM THE RIGHT SIDE! Increase like this a total of 6-6-7-7-8-8 times – work the increased stitches into A.1B, making sure you have at least 3 stocking stitches outermost by the neck. After the last increase there are 36-40-43-47-50-54 stitches. Cut the strand after the final increase from the right side. Place the stitches on an extra needle or thread and work the left front shoulder.

Knit up from the right side 30-34-36-40-42-46 stitches inside 1 stitch along the left back shoulder (i.e. knit up 1 stitch in each row along the top edge).
Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Work the next row from the right side as follows (from the neck):

S, M, XXL and XXXL:
3 stocking stitches, work A.1D until there are 3 stitches left, 3 stocking stitches.

L and XL:
3 stocking stitches, work A.1E until there are 5 stitches left, work the first 2 stitches in A.1E, 3 stocking stitches.

ALL SIZES:
Continue the pattern back and forth.
When the piece measures 5 cm from the shoulder, increase 1 stitch for the neck after the 3 first stitches on each row from the right side, remember INCREASE TIP FROM THE RIGHT SIDE! Increase like this a total of 6-6-7-7-8-8 times – work the increased stitches into A.1D/A.1E, making sure you have at least 3 stocking stitches outermost by the neck. After the last increase there are 36-40-43-47-50-54 stitches.
Work the next row from the wrong side as follows: Work pattern as before over the 36-40-43-47-50-54 stitches from the left front piece, cast on 27-27-29-29-31-31 stitches for the neck, work pattern as before over the 36-40-43-47-50-54 stitches from the right front piece = 99-107-115-123-131-139 stitches.
Continue A.1 back and forth until the piece measures 16-16-18-18-19-20 cm from the shoulder – finish after a row from the wrong side as on the back piece.
Insert 1 marker outermost on the armhole, 3-3-4-4-4-4 cm below the knitted up stitches on the shoulder.
Control the length of the garment by folding it at the longest point, innermost on the shoulder and the marker on the armhole, to make sure A.1 matches in length on the front and back pieces. This is important so the pattern matches at the sides when the pieces are joined. Adjust the length of A.1 if necessary.
Work A.2 back and forth over all stitches.
When A.2 is finished, work the next row from the right side as follows: 1 stocking stitch, A.3A, A.3B 11-12-13-14-15-16 times, A.3C, 1 stocking stitch.
Continue this pattern until the piece measures 25-26-28-29-30-31 cm, measured along the armhole (A.3 is continued on the body, finish on the same row as on the back piece so the pattern matches when the pieces are joined).
The pieces are now joined for the body as described below.

BODY:
Work pattern as before over the 99-107-115-123-131-139 stitches on the front piece, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-14 stitches (in side under sleeve), work pattern as before over the 99-107-115-123-131-139 stitches from the back piece, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-14 stitches (in side under sleeve) = 210-226-246-262-282-306 stitches.
Finish A.3 in the round – the cast-on stitches under each sleeve are worked in stocking stitch until A.3 is finished.
Work A.4 – AT THE SAME TIME, on the first round increase 0-2-0-2-0-0 stitches evenly spaced = 210-228-246-264-282-306 stitches.
On the next-to-last round in A.4, increase 30-32-34-36-38-38 stitches evenly spaced = 240-260-280-300-320-344 stitches (this is because the pattern contracts the piece).

When A.4 is finished, work A.5 over all stitches. Repeat A.5 in height until the piece measures 41-43-45-46-46-48 cm from the highest part of the shoulder by the neck (A.5 is worked approx. 3-4-4-4-4-4 times in height and the body measures approx. 19-21-21-20-20-20 cm from the cast-on stitches in each side). On the last round in A.5, decrease 28-32-36-36-40-40 stitches evenly spaced = 212-228-244-264-280-304 stitches.
Work A.6 over all stitches.
When A.6 is finished, work A.1B over all stitches and until the piece measures 57-59-61-63-65-67 cm from the highest part of the shoulder by the neck – finish after 2 or 3 rounds of stocking stitch after a purled round. Knit 1 round and increase 40-44-48-52-60-60 stitches evenly spaced = 252-272-292-316-340-364 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 5 cm. Cast off a little loosely. The jumper measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm, measured from the highest point on the front piece.

RIGHT SLEEVE:
Use circular needle size 4 mm and knit up, from the right side, 40-42-42-44-46-48 stitches from the bottom of the armhole, up the back piece to the top of the shoulder and 52-54-58-60-62-64 stitches from the shoulder, down the front piece to the bottom of the armhole = 92-96-100-104-108-112 stitches.
Insert 1 marker-thread in the middle of the row – this is used when counting out for the start of the pattern and also to measure from. Start on the wrong side with row 2 in A.4, work back and forth – the marker-thread should match the symbol in A.4.
When the sleeve measures 1-1-2-2-2-3 cm, join the piece and finish the sleeve in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles. When A.4 is finished, work A.1B.
When the sleeve measures 3-5-3-6-5-2 cm from the join, decrease 2 stitches mid-under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP.
Decrease like this every 2½-2-2-1½-1½-1½ cm a total of 19-21-22-23-25-26 times = 54-54-56-58-58-60 stitches. Work until the sleeve measures 51-50-48-47-46-44 cm from the join. There is 5 cm left; try the jumper on and work to desired length before the rib. Knit 1 round and increase 18-18-20-18-18-20 stitches evenly spaced = 72-72-76-76-76-80 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 5 cm. Cast off a little loosely. The sleeve measures approx. 57-56-55-54-53-52 cm from the knitted-up stitches.
Sew the bottom of the armhole – see sketch.

LEFT SLEEVE:
Use circular needle size 4 mm and knit up from the right side 52-54-58-60-62-64 stitches from the bottom of the armhole and up the front piece, then 40-42-42-44-46-48 stitches from the shoulder down the back piece = 92-96-100-104-108-112 stitches.
Insert a marker-thread in the middle of the row. Now work the sleeve in the same way as the right sleeve.

NECK:
Start on one shoulder and knit up from the right side, inside 1 edge stitch, 116 to 136 stitches with short circular needle size 3 mm. The stitch-number should be divisible by 4. Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 12 cm.
Fold the neck double to the inside and fasten with 1 stitch at each shoulder.

Diagram explanations
symbol = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbol = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbol = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, which is worked twisted on the next row to avoid a hole (work in the back loop, the stitch twists to the left seen from the right side)
symbol = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row slip the yarn over off the left needle and place it back the other way around (insert the needle from the back when replacing it). Work the front loop to avoid a hole (the stitch twists to the right seen from the right side)
symbol = knit 2 together
symbol = slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbol = place 1 stitch on cable needle behind the piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbol = place 1 stitch on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbol = slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted-together stitches
symbol = marks the marker-thread on sleeve
symbol = bottom of armhole sewn together: b to B
symbol = pick up stitches for left shoulder at the front (d) along left shoulder at the back (D), pick up stitches for right shoulder at the front (e) along right shoulder back (E)
symbol = knitting direction

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