DROPS design: Pattern w-808
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g colour 16, white

CROCHET TENSION:
14 double treble crochets/double crochets in width and 8 rows vertically with A.1-A.3 = 10 x 10 cm.
14 half treble crochets/double crochets in width and 11 rows vertically with A.4-A.6 = 10 x 10 cm.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 mm
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger hook size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller hook size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton
from 0.95 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.95 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.75£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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CROCHET TIP FOR CHAIN STITCH:
If you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight. 
1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 double crochet/double treble crochet/half treble crochet is wide. 

PATTERN.
See diagrams A.1 to A.6.

CROCHET INFORMATION (applies to A.1, A.3, A.4 and A.6):
At the beginning of every row with double crochets, replace first double crochet with 1 chain stitch.
At beginning of every row with double treble crochets replace first double treble crochet with 4 chain stitches.
At the beginning of every row with half treble crochet replace first half treble crochet with 2 chain stitches.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides on back piece and front piece):
Increase 1 stitch by working 2 stitches in same stitch.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to armholes):
At the beginning of row: Replace number of stitches to decrease with 1 slip stitch.
At end of row: Do not work over stitches to be decreased.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to neck at the back):
Decrease 1 stitch by working the 2 outermost stitches towards the neck together as follows: Make 1 yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, get the yarn, make 1 yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, get the yarn, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all 5 loops on hook (= 1 half treble crochet decreased).

DECREASE TIP-3 (applies to neck at the front):
Decrease 2 stitches by working the 3 outermost stitches towards the neck together as follows:
* Make 1 yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, get the yarn *, work from *-* 3 times in total, make 1 yarn over, and pull strand through all 7 loops on hook (= 2 half treble crochets decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work back piece and front piece back and forth separately, bottom up. Then sew piece together on the shoulder and in the sides.

BACK PIECE:
Read CROCHET TIP FOR CHAIN STITCH and work 58-65-72-79-91-100 chain stitches on hook size 5 mm with Paris.
Turn and work 1 double crochet in 3rd chain stitch from hook (equals 2 double crochets), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 6-6-6-6-4-6 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, work from *-* the entire row = 50-56-62-68-78-86 double crochets on row.
Read CROCHET INFORMATION and work in the A.1 to A.3 as follows: Work A.1 over the first stitch, work A.2 until 1 stitch remains on row, finish with A.3 over the last stitch. Continue pattern back and forth like this. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
When piece measures 8 cm, increase 1 stitch each side - read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 7-7-8-8-9-9 cm 3 times in total in each side = 56-62-68-74-84-92 stitches.

AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 18-18-20-20-23-23 cm, work A.4 to A.6 as follows: Work A.4 over the first stitch, work A.5 until 1 stitch remains on row, finish with A.6 over last stitch. Continue pattern back and forth like this. Fasten off when piece measures 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm. Now cast off for armholes as explained below.

Work A.4 to A.6 as before over the middle 50-56-60-66-74-80 stitches = 3-3-4-4-5-6 stitches in each side for armholes that are not worked. Read DECREASE TIP-1 and cast off for armholes in each side on every row as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 1-1-2-3-4-5 times and 1 stitch 0-2-1-2-3-3 times = 40-42-44-44-46-48 stitches remain.
Continue to work until piece measures 38-40-42-44-46-48 cm. Now work the shoulder over the first 8-9-9-9-9-10 stitches on row (the next 24-24-26-26-28-28 stitches are for neck, and the last 8-9-9-9-9-10 stitches are for shoulder in the other side).
Read DECREASE TIP-2 and decrease 1 stitch for neck on next row with half treble crochets = 7-8-8-8-8-9 stitches remain for shoulder. Continue to work as before over these 7-8-8-8-8-9 stitches until piece measures 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm. Cut and fasten the yarn. Work the other shoulder the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Begin the same way as on back piece, and work the same way as on back piece until piece measures 31-33-34-36-37-39 cm. Cut and fasten the yarn.
Now work the shoulder over the first 13-14-14-14-14-15 stitches (the next 14-14-16-16-18-18 stitches are for neck, and the last 13-14-14-14-14-15 stitches are for shoulder in the other side). Read DECREASE TIP-2 and decrease 2 stitches for neck on next row with half treble crochets. Decrease like this every row with half treble crochets 3 times in total vertically = 7-8-8-8-8-9 half treble crochets remain for shoulder strap. Continue to work as before over these 7-8-8-8-8-9 stitches until piece measures 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm. Cut and fasten the yarn. Work the other shoulder the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams edge to edge with neat little stitches. Sew side seams the same way.

Diagram

symbols = this row is not worked, it has already been worked and only shows how next row should be worked in stitches
symbols = 1 chain stitch (equals 1 double crochet) - if you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight 1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 double crochet is wide.
symbols = 1 double crochet in stitch
symbols = 2 chain stitches (equals 1 half treble crochet)
symbols = 1 half treble crochet in stitch
symbols = 4 chain stitches (equals 1 double treble crochet)
symbols = 1 double treble crochet in stitch
diagram
diagram
signature-image signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 211-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (16)

country flag Monica wrote:

Sto cercando di fare il modello White Heat. Grazie. E

29.07.2021 - 20:45

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Monica, deve seguire il SUGGERIMENTO PER LE DIMINUZIONI-1 per gli scalfi. Buon lavoro!

30.07.2021 kl. 16:38

country flag Monica wrote:

Buongiorno, non riesco a capire come procedere per gli scalfi. Cosa si intende "intrecciare le catenelle"? E soprattutto come si fa? Grazie.

29.07.2021 - 20:38

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Monica, deve seguire il SUGGERIMENTO PER LE DIMINUZIONI-1 per gli scalfi. Buon lavoro!

30.07.2021 kl. 16:38

country flag Valérie wrote:

Jai crocheté le modèle avec qq finitions en ms: l'encolure,emmanchure,et Le bas... Je le trouvais un peu court donc j'ai ajouté qq rangs.

09.07.2021 - 18:16

country flag Anita Frendberg wrote:

Förstår inte alls hur man virkar mönstret, önskar beskrivning varv1, varv 2 osv. Har virkat mycket tidigare men ej sett denna beskrivning av mönstret!!

05.06.2021 - 00:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anita. Hva spesielt er det du ikke skjønner? Vi har dessverre ikke muligheten til å beskrive hver rad i oppskriften, men mener det er tydelig beskrevet slik det står og med henvisning til diagrammene, husk å lese forklaringene til diagramsymbolene. Det er også lagt til hjelpevideoer som viser de ulike hekle teknikkene. mvh DROPS design

07.06.2021 kl. 09:31

country flag Jocelyne JUNG wrote:

Merci Madame, je vais commencer dès aujourd'hui. J'ai un peu de mal avec les diagrammes du site Drops

12.08.2020 - 16:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Jung, cette leçon explique comment lire un diagramme crochet et pourra vous permettre de mieux les comprendre. Bonne continuation!

13.08.2020 kl. 09:46

country flag Jocelyne JUNG wrote:

Bonjour, Je veux réaliser ce top mais j'ai un peu de mal pour la compréhension des diagrammes. Pouvez-vous me confirmer si j'ai bien compris. Diagramme A1 à A3 : 4 mailles en l'ai + 1, 1 dble bride m. suivante, 1 ml jusqu'à la fin du rang à répéter jusqu'à la fin du rang. 2eme rang 2 ml sauter une m. 1 m serrée jusqu'à la fin du rang. A4 à A6 3 ml sauter une m. 1 demi bride 1ml, sauter une m. 1 demi bride jusqu'à la fin du rang. Merci pour la réponse

12.08.2020 - 12:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Jung, les diagrammes A.1 à A.3 se lisent ainsi sur l'endroit = de droite à gauche: A.1 = 4 mailles en l'air, A.2 = 1 double bride dans la maille suivante - A.3 = 1 double-bride dans la maille en l'air du début du rang précédent. Sur l'envers: A.3 = 1 maille en l'air - A.2 = 1 maille serrée dans la double-bride - A.1 = 1 maille serrée dans la 4ème maille en l'air du début du rang précédent. Bon crochet!

12.08.2020 kl. 13:52

country flag Veerle wrote:

In het stekenpatroon A2 beginnen de zijranden parallel schuin te lopen. Na de dubbele keerlosse steek ik het eerste halve stokje in de vierde steek vanaf de naald. Bij de enkele keerlosse voor de rij vasten haak,ik de eerste vaste in de derde steek vanaf de naald. Hierbij beginnen dus de zijranden schuin te lopen, wat na een paar cm zichtbaar wordt. Hoe komt dit en hoe kan dit vermeden worden ?

06.06.2020 - 09:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Veerle,

Nadat je de keerlossen hebt gehaakt (dus 4 lossen die het eerste dubbele stokje vervangen), steek je de haaknaald in de eerstvolgende vaste van de vorige toer. Je slaat dus geen steken over. Door steken over te slaan wordt je werk steeds smaller en dat is niet de bedoeling.

08.06.2020 kl. 12:34

country flag Veerle wrote:

Beste, Wat betreft vasten haken en keren : in de video tutorial van DROPS over vasten keren, wordt 1 keerlosse gehaakt, en wordt de eerste vaste in de eerste steek gehaakt. In de beschrijving van het patroon, wordt bij het keren twee lossen gehaakt (tweede losse telt dan als 1e vaste) en wordt de eerste vaste dus in de tweede steek gehaakt. Is er een reden waarom dit zo gedaan wordt ? Het is in elk geval minder mooi. vriendelijke groet

05.06.2020 - 22:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Veerle,

Bij de toer met vasten wordt de eerste vaste op de toer vervangen door een losse. Dan haak je een volgende vaste in de eerstvolgende steek van de vorige toer.

08.06.2020 kl. 12:38

country flag Veerle wrote:

Beste, Om de aangegeven stekenverhouding te krijgen, moet ik met haaknaald 3 haken ipv 5. Nochtans haak ik niet los. Ik neem aan dat het geen probleem is om deze top met dikte 3 te haken ? (op DROPS PARIS staat 5 aangegeven, ook in patroon). vriendelijke groet

05.06.2020 - 22:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Veerle,

Als de stekenverhouding maar overeen komt met de aangegeven stekenverhouding in het patroon. Zelf gebruik ik ook altijd een kleinere naald :)

08.06.2020 kl. 12:40

country flag Joyce wrote:

Graag patroon

27.04.2020 - 22:12

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