DROPS / 210 / 4

Mountain Moraine by DROPS Design

Knitted vest in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with English rib. Sizes XS - XXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-259
Yarn group C or A + A

XS - S - M - L - XL – XXL

DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-200-250-250-300-300 g colour 03, pearl grey

11 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with English rib = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for English rib.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM: Length 40 cm for neck.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 5.30 € /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 5.30 € /50g
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 5.30 € /50g
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.20€. Read more.

Pattern instructions




RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

See diagrams A.1 to A.4 (worked with English rib).

DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 62 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 10) = 6.2. 
In this example decrease by purling each 5th and 6th stitch together.




The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle from mid back, top down. Stiches are increased for the shoulders before the piece is divided and the front and pieces worked separately as far as the bottom of the armholes. The pieces are rejoined and the body continued in the round.

Cast on 62-62-66-70-70-74 stitches with circular needle size 6 mm and Air. Purl 1 round, purl 1 more round and decrease 10 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = 52-52-56-60-60-64 stitches.
Purl 1 round. Change to circular needle size 7 mm.

Work pattern as follows: A.1 (= 2 stitches) over the first 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches (= half back piece), A.2 (= 2 stitches), A.1 over 12 stitches, A.3 (= 2 stitches = shoulder), A.1 over 10-10-12-14-14-16 stitches (= front piece), A.2 over 2 stitches, A.1 over 12 stitches, A.3 over 2 stitches (= shoulder) and A.1 over the last 4-4-6-6-6-8 stitches (= half back piece). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.1 has been completed 1 time in height, repeat A.1a onwards.
When A.2 and A.3 have been completed 1 time in height, repeat A.2a and A.3a onwards; i.e. continue to increase every 6th round, the increased stitches are worked in English rib.
When A.2a and A.3a have been worked a total of 8-9-9-10-11-12 times in height there are 132-140-144-156-164-176 stitches on the needle. Work A.1a over all stitches until the piece measures 24-25-25-25-26-26 cm at the longest point (i.e. measured along the shoulder); adjust so the next round is purled.
Now divide the piece for front and back pieces and the shoulder stitches are cast off as follows:
Work 26-28-28-32-34-36 stitches in English rib, 1 stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above (= half back piece), cast off the next 13 stitches (yarn overs are cast off as separate stitches), 1 stitch in garter stitch, work 51-55-57-63-67-73 stitches in English rib, 1 stitch in garter stitch (= front piece), cast off the next 13 stitches (yarn overs are cast off as separate stitches), work 1 stitch in garter stitch and English rib over the last 25-27-29-31-33-37 stitches.
Cut the strand.
Now continue the armholes and back piece, working back and forth.
Allow the other stitches to remain on the needle.

= 53-57-59-65-69-75 stitches.
Work as follows from the right side: 1 stitch in garter stitch, A.4 (= 2 stitches) until there is 1 stitch left (i.e. the English rib pattern starts and ends with 1 purled English rib stitch) and finish with 1 stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern back and forth for 10-10-11-12-13-14 cm, measured along the garter stitch; make sure the last row is from the wrong side. Allow the stitches to remain on the needle and work the front piece.

Work the 53-57-59-65-69-75 stitches on the front piece in the same way as the back piece.

Work A.1a over the front piece (i.e. the garter stitches on each side become knitted English rib stitches), cast on 3 stitches, work A.1a over the back piece and cast on 3 stitches at the end of the row = 112-120-124-136-144-156 stitches.
Now work A.1a in the round over all the stitches. On the first round work the 3 cast-on stitches under each sleeve without yarn overs.
When the piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm (measured from the neck) cast off with knit; yarn overs are cast off as separate stitches (to avoid the cast-off edge being tight).


= knit
= work from right side
= work from wrong side
= make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl
= knit yarn over and stitch together
= purl yarn over and stitch together
= work 3 stitches in knitted stitch and yarn over as follows: knit the yarn over and knitted stitch together but do not slip them from the needle, make 1 yarn over right needle and knit the yarn over and stitch together 1 more time, slip the knitted stitch and yarn over that was knitted in off the left needle = 3 stitches
= purl
= knitting direction

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 210-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (58)

Cecile 12.07.2020 - 20:48:

Bonsoir. Voilà la séparation des mailles est faite. J’ai mon devant d’un côté et le dos de l’autre. Pour le dos, le marqueur de début de rang est au milieu du rang ce qui fait qu’une moitié du travail se fait à l’endroit et l’autre à l’envers ! Est-ce bien cela ? Me suis je trompée ou comment dois je reprendre mon travail ? Merci de votre retour Cécile

DROPS Design 13.07.2020 kl. 09:16:

Bonjour Cécile, le dernier rang de l'empiècement se tricote en rond comme avant, autrement dit, les premières mailles du dos (= demi-dos environ) vont se tricoter de la même façon que les dernières mailles du tour (= demi-dos environ), à la fin de ce tour, coupez le fil. Glissez les mailles de la moitié du dos sur l'aiguille droite, tournez l'ouvrage et tricotez le premier rang du dos sur l'envers, en commençant par la maille point mousse tricotée après les (26-36 m côtes anglaises) et terminez par la m point mousse tricotée après avoir rabattu les 13m de la 2ème épaule. Bon tricot!

Cecile78 05.07.2020 - 17:01:

Au fur et à mesure des rangs, faut-il faire l’augmentation de A2a une fois à la fin et au début de la section ou autant de fois que le nombre de maille le permet au fur et à mesure ? Merci

DROPS Design 06.07.2020 kl. 09:02:

Bonjour Cécile78, quad A.2 (et A.3) ont été tricotés 1 fois en hauteur, vous continuez à augmenter comme le montrent A.2a/A.3a, autrement dit, vous augmentez tous les 6 rangs (= au 5ème rang de A.2a/A.3a) dans l'avant-dernière maille de A.2a et dans la 1ère maille de A.3a - avez-vous regardé cette vidéo? Bon tricot!

Lynda L Minter 17.06.2020 - 19:43:

Need American English or translation, please.

DROPS Design 18.06.2020 kl. 09:38:

Dear Mrs Minter, please edit the language by clicking on the scroll down menu below picture. Happy knitting!

Mona 03.06.2020 - 19:29:

Når jeg øker 8 m 9 ganger (72m) så stemmer ikke m ant med det jeg skal ha i m. Har sett videoen men ble ikke klokere

DROPS Design 05.06.2020 kl. 11:31:

Hej Mona. Du har först 52 m (strl S), sedan stickar hela diagram A.3 och A.2 en gång på höjden så då har du ökat 24 m. Sedan upprepas A.3a och A.2a ytterligare 8 gånger (så 9 gånger totalt), dvs 64 (=8x8) ökade maskor. 52+24+64=140m. Mvh DROPS Design

Mona 03.06.2020 - 19:25:

Skal det økes to maske på hver A2 og A3 (altså 1 økning) på hver omgang hele veien? På Str m skal der være 9 omg med økninger, altså 8 masker hver omg. Eller blir det flere økninger etterhvert som der blir flere masker??

DROPS Design 05.06.2020 kl. 11:57:

Hej Mona, har du set videoen?

How to start working the vest in DROPS 210-4 from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

Claire Stone 27.05.2020 - 13:41:

I like it, it is different

Laraine Clarke 01.05.2020 - 17:23:

Why do ALL your patterns use circular needles? I do not like knitting with circular needles - too bulky when you are working. I love your yarn but would like to use some patterns with ordinary needles.

DROPS Design 04.05.2020 kl. 14:03:

Dear Mrs Clarke, you will find how to adapt a pattern into straight needles. Happy knitting!

Katrine 17.04.2020 - 16:09:

Hvordan får man udtagningerne til at passe, jeg strikke str xl og kan ikke forstå det med de 11 gange i højden = 164 masker

DROPS Design 21.04.2020 kl. 14:43:

Hej Katrine, har du set videoen?

How to start working the vest in DROPS 210-4 from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

DROPS Design 16.04.2020 - 09:42:

Please find below a video showing how to start this pattern - Se her hvordan man starter med denne opskrift - Siehe unten wie man dieses Modell anfängt - Découvrez ci-dessous comment commencer ce modèle.

Karen Hansen 15.04.2020 - 01:49:

I am having trouble beginning the Body. I worked the first row of A.1.a (that has K stitches) and cast on the 3 stitches after the front and the back. When I begin the next row (that says work A.1.a in the round) am I suppose to do another row of K stitches or the second row of A.1.a that has P stitches? Neither way seems to line up properly. Also the comment about without YO .... do I not use them because they aren't there or do I not add them to be used in the next row? Thank you.

DROPS Design 15.04.2020 kl. 08:10:

Hi Karen, A.1a (row 1) has alternately K1, 1 YO and slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, Row 2 has 1 alternately 1YO, purl together the YO and stitch from the previous row. These 2 rows are repeated upwards. The only stitches worked without YOs are the 3 stitches cast on under the sleeve and this is only on the first row. I hope this helps and happy knitting!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 210-4

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.