DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.10 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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DROPS 213-3

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DROPS design: Pattern sk-087
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-200-200-250-250-250 g colour 01, white

KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.10 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 108 stitches) , and divide stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 2) = 54. 
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after every 54th stitch. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
To decrease in this example knit every 53th and 54th stitch together.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle. If this also is too tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch and cast off these as regular stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke in the round on circular needle from mid back, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Body is worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 108-112-116-120-124-132 stitches on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Sky. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) for 2 cm. When rib is done, knit 1 round while increasing 2-3-9-10-11-13 stitches evenly - read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 110-115-125-130-135-145 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Insert 1 marker at beginning of round = mid back. Now measure piece from here.

YOKE:
Work stocking stitch in the round until piece measures 2-2-2-2-3-3 cm. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Now work pattern A.1 in the round (= 22-23-25-26-27-29 repetitions of 5 stitches). When A.1 has been worked there are 44-46-50-52-54-58 stitches= 154-161-175-182-189-203 stitches. Continue in stocking stitch until piece measures 6-6-7-8-9-10 cm.
Now work pattern in the different sizes as follows:
Size S: Work A.3 in the round (= 22 repetitions of 7 stitches).
Size M and L: Work A.2 until 5-1 stitch remains (= 26-29 repetitions of 6 stitches), knit 5-1.
Size XL, XXL and XXXL: Work A.1 until 2-4-3 stitches remain (= 36-37-40 repetitions of 5 stitches), knit 2-4-3.
When entire diagram has been worked, there are 198-213-233-254-263-283 stitches on round. Continue in stocking stitch until piece measures 10-11-12-14-15-17 cm.
Now work pattern in the different sizes as follows:
Size S: Work A.3 until 2 stitches remain (= 28 repetitions of 7 stitches), knit 2.
Size M, L and XL: Work A.2 until 3-5-2 stitches remain (= 35-38-42 repetitions of 6 stitches), knit 3-5-2.
Size XXL and XXXL: Work A.1 until 3-3 stitches remain (= 52-56 repetitions of 5 stitches), knit 3-3.
When entire diagram has been worked, there are 254-283-309-338-367-395 stitches on round.
Knit 1 round while adjusting number of stitches to 256-280-304-338-366-396 (i.e. In size S and XXXL increase 2-1 stitches evenly, in size M, L and XXL decrease 3-5-1 stitch evenly and in size XL do not adjust number of stitches) – remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP.
Continue in stocking stitch until piece measures 15-17-19-21-23-25 cm.
Now divide piece for body and sleeves. Work next round as follows:
Work the first 36-40-43-48-54-60 stitches (= half back piece), slip the next 56-60-66-73-75-78 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches in the side under sleeve, work the next 72-80-86-96-108-120 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 56-60-66-73-75-78 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches in the side under sleeve, work the last 36-40-43-48-54-60 stitches (= half back piece). Then finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.

BODY:
= 160-176-192-212-240-264 stitches. Insert a marker thread in each side, in the middle of the new 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches that were cast on in the side under sleeves. There are 80-88-96-106-120-132 stitches between marker threads on front and back piece. Move the marker threads upwards when working; they should be used for increase later in the sides. Work in stocking stitch in the round.
When piece measures 4 cm from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - READ INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this approx. every 8 cm 4 times in total = 176-192-208-228-256-280 stitches.
When piece measures 33 cm from division, increase 24-28-32-32-40-44 stitches evenly = 200-220-240-260-296-324 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Work rib (knit 2/purl 2) in the round for 2 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read CAST-OFF TIP. Jumper measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 56-60-66-73-75-78 stitches from stitch holder in one side back on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and pick up 1 stitch in each of the new 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on in the side under sleeve = 64-68-76-83-87-90 stitches. Insert a marker thread mid under sleeve (= 4-4-5-5-6-6 new stitches on each side of marker thread). Work in stocking stitch in the round for 4 cm. Now decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3-3-2-1½-1-½ cm 4-4-4-5-5-5 times in total = 56-60-68-73-77-80 stitches. Continue round in stocking stitch until sleeve measures 15-14-12-11-9-7 cm. Knit 1 round while increasing 4-4-4-3-3-4 stitches evenly = 60-64-72-76-80-84 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm. Work rib (knit 2/purl 2) in the round for 2 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read CAST-OFF TIP. Work another sleeve the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 31.03.2020
No errors, but new text for the 2nd chart icon

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = knit 1 but wait with slipping the stitch off the needle, 1 yarn over, knit 1 in same stitch, but in the back loop. On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes (= 2 stitches increase)
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Mariluz wrote:

Me gustaría tener este patrón con el hilo Safran, normalmente llevo la talla S, que talla me aconseja con este hilo, gracias de antemano un saludo.

22.03.2024 - 15:40

country flag Dorthe Johannesen wrote:

Hvorfor kan jeg ikke finde diagrammet på den her opskrift?

13.03.2023 - 18:38

country flag MAIGROT Marceline wrote:

Bonjour Quand vous écrivez qu’il faut tricoter tant de centimètres de hauteur dans l’empiètement après A1 faut-il mesurer depuis le premier rang de côtes où depuis le marqueur après les côtes ?

03.03.2023 - 19:03

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Maigrot, on mesure l'empiècement à partir du marqueur placé après le col. Bon tricot!

06.03.2023 - 09:01

country flag Janne wrote:

Hei Må bare si at denne blusen har jeg "forelsket" meg i. Strikket flere av disse. Enkel og grei oppskrift, med fin fasong i plagget. Tusen takk Drops Design.

20.08.2022 - 07:41

country flag Janne wrote:

Er det sånn å forstå at en kan bruke alle garn alternativene i garn gruppen B til denne oppskriften?

26.08.2021 - 10:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Janne, Ja det er korrekt. Det er lurt å strikke en prøvelapp før du begynner uansett, og justere pinnestørrelsen hvis nødvendig. Hilsen Drops Team

26.08.2021 - 13:42

country flag Trine wrote:

Strikker str m Efter 1.udtagn efter diagram A1 har jeg 161 m som opskriften siger. Efter 2.udtagn efter diagram A2 er der 2 masker for meget !! Gør nøjagtigt som beskrevet - forklaring ønskes !!

19.08.2021 - 20:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Trine. Du tar ut 2 m i varje rapport av A.2 och du stickar A.2 26 gånger på p. Då har du alltså tagit ut 2m x 26= 52 m. 161+52= 213 m. Mvh DROPS Design

24.08.2021 - 13:31

country flag Trine wrote:

Jeg strikker str. m og efter første udtagning efter diagram A1 har jeg som opskriften siger 161 masker men efter næste udtagn A2 passer det ikke mere. Der er 2 masker for meget !!! Jeg gør nøjagtig som der står - forklaring ønskes !

19.08.2021 - 19:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Trine. Se svar ovan. Mvh DROPS Design

24.08.2021 - 13:32

country flag Connie Enghoff wrote:

Hej, igen, I behøver ikke at svare Pia og jeg, jeg har fundet ud af det og hjulpet Pia. Jeg må dog sige at til så simpel en bluse er det meget kompliceret forklaret.....

25.03.2021 - 16:17

country flag Connie Enghoff wrote:

Hej, efter rapport A2 skal der være 233 masker, men 175 + 2x29 og en maske ret til sidst giver 234 masker. Jeg har en kunde dear spørger om hjælp!

25.03.2021 - 10:29

country flag Pia wrote:

Jeg strikker i str Large. Jeg er med på mønstret, men forstår ikke hvordan jeg kommer videre efter de 8 cm på A1 ( 182 masker) Forstår ganske enkelt ikke 5-1...... og hvor mange cm førend A3 Håber spørgsmålet giver mening

25.03.2021 - 01:58