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  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Cardigans
  4. DROPS
  5. 213
  6. 18

Free Flow by DROPS Design

Knitted long jacket with shawl collar in DROPS Bomull-Lin or DROPS Paris. Piece is knitted with lace pattern. Size XS–XXL.

Keywords: bottom up, jacket, lace, long sleeves, sewn in sleeves, shawl collar

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DROPS 213-18
DROPS design: Pattern l-155
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS BOMULL-LIN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
450-500-550-650-700-750 colour 03, light beige

Or use:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
550-600-650-700-750-850 g colour 26, beige

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch/ pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm: Length 80 cm for edges in garter stitch.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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53% Cotton, 47% Linen 		from 2.50 £ /50g
DROPS Bomull-Lin uni colour DROPS Bomull-Lin uni colour 2.50 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.50£. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge vertically = 2 rounds, i.e. knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagram A.1 to A.4 (diagram A.4 applies to sleeves). Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work body back and forth on circular needle up to armhole. Then cast off stitches for armholes in each side, and work front pieces and back piece back and forth separately. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

BODY:
Cast on 169-189-195-225-231-251 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 5 mm with Bomull-Lin or Paris. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Work next row in the different sizes as follows:

Size XS, L, XL:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1a over the next 21-28-28 stitches (= 3-4-4 repetitions of 7 stitches), knit 4-3-2, A.2 over the next 12-24-24 stitches (= 1-2-2 repetitions of 12 stitches), A.3 over the next 6-6-6 stitches (= 1 repetition of 6 stitches), knit 4-3-5, insert a marker thread here (= in the side), knit 3-2-4, A.2 over the next 60-84-84 stitches (= 5-7-7 repetitions), A.3 over the next 6-6-6 stitches (= 1 repetition), knit 4-3-5, insert a marker thread here (= in the side), knit 3-2-4, A.2 over the next 12-24-24 stitches (= 1-2-2 repetitions), A.3 over the next 6-6-6 stitches (= 1 repetition of 6 stitches), knit 5-4-3, A.1a over the next 21-28-28 stitches (= 3-4-4 repetitions), 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

Size S, M, XXL:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1a over the next 21-21-28 stitches (= 3-3-4 repetitions of 7 stitches), knit 4-3-2, A.2 over the next 24-24-36 stitches (= 2-2-3 repetitions of 12 stitches), knit 3-5-4, insert a marker thread here (= the side), knit 2-4-3, A.2 over the next 72-72-96 stitches (= 6-6-8 repetitions), A.3 over the next 6-6-6 stitches (= 1 repetition of 6 stitches), knit 3-5-4, insert a marker thread here (= in the side), knit 2-4-3, A.2 over the next 24-24-36 stitches (= 2-2-3 repetitions), knit 5-4-3, A.1a over the next 21-21-28 stitches (= 3-3-4 repetitions), 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

All sizes:
When first row has been worked, 1 stitch has been decreased in every repetition A.1a on row (= 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches decreased in total) = 163-183-189-217-223-243 stitches. Work 1 row from wrong side. Now work A.1b over every repetition A.1a and work pattern as before over the remaining stitches on row.
NOTE! On 5th row in A.2 work 1 more knit stitch before the first stitch in diagram (applies first time diagram is worked after band stitches on right front piece and after marker thread in the sides). On 15th row in A.3 work 1 knit stitch less after the last stitch in diagram (applies before marker thread in the sides and before band stitches on left front piece. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 43-44-45-46-47-48 cm - adjust so that next row is worked from wrong side, cast off 2 stitch in each side, i.e. 1 stitch on each side of marker thread in each side. Then finish front pieces and back piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 71-81-85-93-97-107 stitches. Work first row as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 2-1-3-1-3-2, work pattern as before over the next 66-78-78-90-90-102 stitches, knit 1-0-2-0-2-1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this.
When piece measures 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm, do not begin any more lace patterns vertically (this way the neck isn’t cast off in the middle of working a lace pattern).When last lace pattern has been worked, continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
When piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm, cast off the middle 21-21-23-23-25-25 stitches for neck, and finish each shoulder separately. On next row from the neck, cast off 1 stitch = 24-29-30-34-35-41 stitches. When piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm, cast off all stitches. Work the other shoulder the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 44-49-50-60-61-66 stitches. Work first row from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1b over the next 18-18-18-24-24-24 stitches, knit 4-4-3-3-2-2, work pattern as before over the next 18-24-24-30-30-36 stitches, knit 2-1-3-1-3-2, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this. When piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm – adjust so that next row is worked from wrong side, cast off the first 24-29-30-34-35-40 stitches for shoulder, then work over the last 20-20-20-26-26-26 stitches as before. Continue with lace pattern and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side until band measures 7-7-7-7-8-8 cm from shoulder. At the beginning of the next 3-3-3-4-4-4 rows from wrong side, cast off the first 5 stitches = 5-5-5-6-6-6 stitches remain. Loosely cast off the last stitches on next row from wrong side

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 44-49-50-60-61-66 stitches. Work first row from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1-0-2-0-2-1, pattern as before over the next 18-24-24-30-30-36 stitches, knit 5-5-4-4-3-3, A.1b over the next 18-18-18-24-24-24 stitches, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this. When piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm – adjust so that next row is worked from right side, cast off the first 24-29-30-34-35-40 stitches for shoulder, then work over the last 20-20-20-26-26-26 stitches as before. Continue with lace pattern and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side until band measures 7-7-7-7-8-8 cm from shoulder. At the beginning of the next 3-3-3-4-4-4 rows from right side, cast off the first 5 stitches = 5-5-5-6-6-6 stitches remain. Loosely cast off the last stitches on next row from right side

SLEEVES:
Cast on 35-35-37-39-41-41 stitches on double pointed needles size 5 mm with Bomull-Lin or Paris. Work 2 ridges. Switch to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm. Insert a marker thread at beginning of round (= mid under sleeve). Work pattern as follows: Knit 13-13-14-15-16-16, A.4 (= 9 stitches) knit 13-13-14-15-16-16. Work pattern in the round as follows. When piece measures 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm, increase 2 stitches under sleeve - read INCREASE TIP! Increase like this approx. every 4-3½-3-2½-2½-2 cm 10-11-12-13-13-15 times in total = 55-57-61-65-67-71 stitches. When sleeve measures 43-41-40-39-39-36 cm, do not begin any more lace patterns vertically (this way the sleeve isn’t cast off in the middle of working a lace pattern). Continue in the round in stocking stitch. When sleeve measures 48-46-45-44-44-41 cm, cast off all stitches. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams with grafting/kitchener stitches inside cast-off edge. Sew sleeves in body inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on body and inside cast-off edge on sleeve. Sew the collar together mid back and sew it to the neck. Fasten off.
Bomull-Lin will be more even and look better after it has been washed. When the garment is finished, soak it, stretch it to correct measurements - see chart, and leave it to dry flat.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 09.09.2022
BODY, Size XS, L, XL: ...A.1a over the next 21-28-28 stitches (= 3-3-4-4 repetitions), 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row (wrong side) purl yarn over to make hole. When working pattern on sleeve, knit yarn overs on next round to make holes.
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 3 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 213-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (61)

country flag Lieve Bombeke wrote:

Hallo, Bij de maten XS,L,XL wordt A3 2X gebreid, telkens na een herhaling van A2. Bij de maten S,M,XXL wordt A3 slechts 1X gebreid. Moet dat niet ook 2X zijn? Wat een prachtig vest! Ik ben een grotere maat aan het breien en merkte het verschil. Vriendelijke groeten en dankuwel voor de service!

25.06.2023 - 21:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Lieve,

Bij de maten XS,L,XL wordt A3 zelfs 3X op de naald gebreid. Als ik het goed zie is dit gedaan om goed uit te komen met het patroon in de zijkanten aan aan de voorkant in de verschillende maten.

03.07.2023 kl. 21:04

country flag Laurence Trotti wrote:

Bonjour, Dans les explications en français pour les manches, je ne comprends pas le nombre de mailles des lignes 7 et 9. Normalement les valeurs sont de la plus petite à la plus grande selon la taille, aussi de la plus petite à la plus grande. Dans ces lignes, c'est le contraire : de la plus grande à plus petite (43 à 36 cm et 48 à 41 cm). Est-ce exact ou y a-t-il une erreur ? Merci pour tous vos patrons et explications, toujours très bien faits.

22.06.2023 - 16:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Trotti, c'est juste ainsi, les manches sont plus courtes dans les grandes tailles car les épaules sont plus larges. Vous pouvez vérifier vos propres mesures sur un vêtement analogue que vous avez et dont vous aimez la taille et la forme et ajuster si besoin la longueur des manches. Bon tricot!

22.06.2023 kl. 17:21

country flag Agnes wrote:

Hallo, Ik zie voor maat M aan het begin van het breien van het lijf, dat er bij het ene voorpand 3 en daarna 5 rechten gebreid worden voor en na A2. Bij het andere voorpand is dat 4 en 4. Het totaal klopt, maar de symmetrie niet lijkt het. Klopt dat wel?

08.04.2023 - 09:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Agnes,

Ja, ik zie het inderdaad ook dat er verschil in zit. Vermoedelijk heeft dit te maken met het feit dat de kantsteek in A.1a aan de rechterkant zit. Door een steek toe te voegen aan de andere kant wordt het meer symmetrisch.

19.04.2023 kl. 13:58

country flag Wille Tolboom wrote:

Is de stekenverhouding 16/20 voor naald 5 of voor naald 5.5?

14.01.2023 - 18:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Wille,

Dit is voor naald 5.5 mm. De dunnere naald wordt voor de boord/rand gebruikt.

15.01.2023 kl. 17:27

country flag ROSITA PUGLIESE wrote:

Buongiorno, lavorando la seconda riga di A.2 mi rendo conto di lavorare e poi avere sul ferro solo 11 maglie per ogni ripetizione. Dove sbaglio? Ho già disfatto tre volte il lavoro, se non risolvo cambio modello...

11.10.2022 - 10:52

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Rosita, la 2° riga di A.2 è a rovescio, non ci sono aumenti o diminuzioni. Buon lavoro!

13.10.2022 kl. 22:39

country flag Rosita Pugliese wrote:

Chiedo scusa, ho visto ora che c'è un secondo gettato da fare..

10.10.2022 - 10:09

country flag Rosita Pugliese wrote:

Buongiorno, alla fine del primo giro ho in totale 235 maglie... eppure mi sembra di aver capito bene gli schemi... dove sbaglio?

10.10.2022 - 10:07

country flag Catherine wrote:

Bonjour, je voudrais juste mentionner une petite erreur dans les explications. Dans la rubrique "Taille XS, L, XL", dernière ligne, il est indiqué "... au-dessus des 21-28-28 mailles suivantes (=3-3-4 motifs), 1 maille lisière au point mousse." En réalité, il s'agit de "(3-4-4 motifs)" et non 3-3-4. Bien cordialement, Catherine

16.07.2022 - 07:57

country flag Anna wrote:

Modello Dr ops 213-18 scrivete che alla fine del 1 o ferro sarà diminuita una maglia ogni ripetizione di A.1a ….. cosa sbaglio io ogni diminuzione di A.1a come spiegato dal vostro diagramma ho diminuzione di tre maglie…..

20.03.2022 - 09:20

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Anna, il 1° ferro di A.1a prevede 3 diminuzioni e 2 aumenti (gettati), per un totale di 1 diminuzione per ogni ripetizione di A.1a. Buon lavoro!

10.08.2022 kl. 22:54

country flag Kathrin wrote:

Hallo, ich habe mit der Jacke angefangen und mir ist nicht ganz klar, ob die Zunahme und Abnahme der einen Masche nur EINMAL nötig ist oder in jeder 5. bzw. 15. Reihe des Diagramms: BITTE BEACHTEN: in der 5. Reihe von A.2 1 Masche rechts mehr stricken, bevor die erste Masche des Diagramms gestrickt wird (gilt für das erste Mal, wenn das Diagramm nach den Blenden-Maschen am rechten Vorderteil und nach dem Markierungsfaden an der Seite gestrickt wird).

28.05.2021 - 16:06

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Kathrin, bei der 5. Reihe fangen Sie mit 1 Masche rechts vor A.2, dann stricken Sie A.2 und enden mit nur 5 M in A.3 (= die erste M in A.3 wurde mit der letzten Maschen vorrigen A.2 gestrickt); und am Ende Reihe 15 in A.3 stricken Sie die letzte Masche in A.3 zusammen mit der nächsten Maschen (1 Masche glatt rechts weniger = wurde mit A.3 zusammengestrickt). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.05.2021 kl. 16:18

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213-18 Free Flow

Petra, Germany
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