DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.20 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Weekend Wander

Knitted hat, neck warmer and mittens in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk with textured pattern.

DROPS 204-34
DROPS design: Pattern z-873
Yarn group A + A or C
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FOR THE ENTIRE SET:

SIZE:
S/M - M/L
Head circumference: 54/56 – 56/58 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-150 g colour 9020, light pearl grey
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-100 colour 01, off white

HAT:

SIZE:
S/M - M/L
Head circumference: approx. 54/56 - 56/58 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50 g colour 9020, light pearl grey
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
25-25 g colour 01, off white

KNITTING TENSION:
18 stitches in width and 23 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm. 19 stitches pattern A.1 should measure approx. 10 cm in width.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm, length 40 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 mm, length 40 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

NECK WARMER:

SIZE:
S/M - M/L
Piece measures approx. Circumference = 75-80 cm Height = 22-24 cm. 

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-100 g colour 9020, light pearl grey
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
25-25 g colour 01, off white

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm. 17 stitches pattern A.1 should measure approx. 10 cm in width.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm, length 60 or 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm, length 60 cm or 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

MITTENS:

SIZE:
S/M - M/L
MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50 g colour 9020, light pearl grey
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
25-25 g colour 01, off white

KNITTING TENSION:
19 stitches in width and 26 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm – for rib
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.20 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
Hat: See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
Neck warmer: See diagram A.1.
Mittens: See diagram A.3.

INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on round (e.g. 128 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 20) = 6.4. 
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 6th stitch. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on round (e.g. 96 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 8) = 12. In this example decrease by knitting every 11th and 12th stitch together.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to mittens):
Decrease as follows (begin 3 stitches before marker): Knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker is in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch overRepeat in the other side.
NOTE! Work as many stitches of pattern A.1 that fit on the front of mitten between decreases in each side. Work in stocking stitch on the inside of mitten as before.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HAT - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Switch to double pointed needles when needed.

HAT: 
Cast on 96-104 stitches on circular needle size 3.5 mm with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Knit 1 round. Then work rib = knit 2/purl 2 until piece measures 3 cm. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Knit 1 round while decreasing 8-12 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP-1 = 88-92 stitches. Work A.1 (= 4 stitches) the entire round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 17-19 cm - adjust to finish on 1st or 3rd round in diagram, begin decrease. Knit until first purl stitch. Insert a marker thread here. This is now the beginning of round. Begin round with arrow in A.2 and work diagram in the round on round. When A.2 has been worked vertically, there are 44-46 stitches on round. Now knit stitches together 2 by 2 = 22-23 stitches. Knit 2 rounds. Knit 2 and 2 stitches together until 11-12 stitches remain on round. Hat measures approx. 24-26 cm. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten.

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NECK WARMER - SHORT SUMMARY OF PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle.

NECK WARMER:
Cast on 148-156 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) for 3 cm. Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Knit 1 row while decreasing 20 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP = 128-136 stitches. Then work pattern A.1 in the round on round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 19-21 cm - adjust to finish after 2nd or 4th round in diagram, knit 1 round while increasing 20-20 stitches evenly - READ INCREASE TIP = 148-156 stitches on needle. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work rib (knit 2/purl 2) for 3 cm. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Neck warmer measures approx. 22-24 cm. Cut and fasten the yarn.

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MITTENS - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.

LEFT MITTEN:
Cast on 40-44 stitches on double pointed needles size 3 mm with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Then work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) for 4 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Knit 1 round while decreasing 4 stitches evenly = 36-40 stitches. Insert a marker thread at beginning of piece. Move the marker thread upwards when working. Work pattern as follows: Knit 2-3, A.1 (= 16 stitches), knit the remaining stitches on round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 has been worked vertically, repeat diagram vertically. When piece measures 8 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of first stitch on round for thumb (= 2 stitches increased) - read INCREASE TIP! Repeat increase on each side of the increased stitches every other round 5 times in total = 46-50 stitches. Now slip the 11 thumb stiches on 1 stitch holder. Work in stocking stitch and A.1 in the round AT THE SAME TIME cast on 1 new stitch behind thumb on next round = 36-40 stitches.
When mitten measures approx. 22 cm (try the mitten on if needed, approx. 4-5 cm remain until finished measurements), insert 2 marker threads in piece as follows: Move the marker thread at the beginning of round 1 stitch, i.e. 1 stitch from right to left. Insert a new marker thread after another 18-20 stitches. 18-20 stitches remain on round after last marker thread.
Now continue with as many stitches of A.1 that fit on the front of mitten and work in stocking stitch over the remaining stitches, AT THE SAME TIME on first row decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads (= 4 stitches decreased) - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this on every other round 2-3 more times and then every round 4 times in total = 8-8 stitches. On next round knit all stitches together 2 by 2 = 4-4 stitches. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten.

THUMB:
Slip the 11 thumb stiches from stitch holder back on double pointed needle size 4 mm. Pick in addition up 4-5 stitches behind thumb = 15-16 stitches. Work in stocking stitch until the thumb itself measures approx. 5½-6 cm (try on the mitten, approx. ½ cm remains until finished measurements). Knit 2 rounds AT THE SAME TIME knit all stitches together 2 by 2 on both rounds. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten.

RIGHT MITTEN:
Cast on 40-44 stitches on double pointed needles size 3 mm with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Then work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) for 4 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Knit 1 round while decreasing 4 stitches evenly = 36-40 stitches. Insert a marker thread at beginning of piece. Move the marker thread upwards when working. Work pattern as follows: Knit 18-21, A.1 (= 16 stitches), knit 2-3. When A.1 has been worked vertically, repeat diagram vertically. When piece measures 8 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of last stitch on round for thumb (= 2 stitches increased) - remember INCREASE TIP! Repeat increase on each side of the increased stitches every other round 5 times in total = 46-50 stitches. Now slip the 11 thumb stiches on 1 stitch holder. Work in stocking stitch and A.1 in the round AT THE SAME TIME cast on 1 new stitch behind thumb on next round = 36-40 stitches.
When mitten measures approx. 22 cm (try the mitten on if needed, approx. 4-5 cm remain until finished measurements), insert 2 marker threads in piece as follows: Move the marker thread at the beginning of round 1 stitch, i.e. 1 stitch from left to right. Insert a new marker thread after another 18-20 stitches. 18-20 stitches remain on round after last marker thread. Now continue with as many stitches of A.1 that fit on the front of mitten and work in stocking stitch over the remaining stitches, AT THE SAME TIME on first row decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads (= 4 stitches decreased) - remember DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this on every other round 2-3 more times and then every round total 4 times in total = 8-8 stitches. On next round knit all stitches together 2 by 2 = 4-4 stitches. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten.

THUMB:
Slip the 11 thumb stiches from stitch holder back on double pointed needle size 4 mm. Pick in addition up 4-5 stitches behind thumb = 15-16 stitches. Work in stocking stitch until the thumb itself measures approx. 5½-6 cm (try on the mitten, approx. ½ cm remains until finished measurements). Knit 2 rounds AT THE SAME TIME knit all stitches together 2 by 2 on both rounds. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = begin on this round
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = purl 2 together
symbols = this square is not a stitch because stitch was decreased earlier, go directly to next symbol in diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Ana Ramirez wrote:

Jeg vil prøve å lage luen. Det står at man strikker fra vrangbord 88 masker. Men luen skal være 54/56 i størrelse. Bør jeg legge til mer masker?

18.12.2023 - 16:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ana, nej du skal tage ind som der står - du skal have 19 masker i mønster på 10 cm, hvis du har det, vil hue sidde lidt stramt som på billedet. Vil du have den større, så skal du evt strikke efter den større størrelse :)

19.12.2023 - 14:49

country flag BrittMari wrote:

Stickar mössan var snäll förklara intagningarna tack

20.11.2023 - 22:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hej BrittMari Se svar nedan. Mvh DROPS Design

22.11.2023 - 14:09

country flag Britt-Mari wrote:

Hej,! Stickar mössan och ska börja intagningarna. Har jag förstått rätt : Börjar vid pilen med att sticka ihop två aviga sen två räta varvet ut, ska sen följande varv stickas utan intagningar och nästa två räta stickas samman ? Men sen då ? Tacksam för svar

20.11.2023 - 21:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Du stickar varvet med pil i diagram A.2 såhär: "2 maskor aviga tillsammans, 2 räta maskor" - detta upprepas varvet ut. De nästa 5 varv stickas enligt diagrammet (1 avig, 2 räta) och där är det inga minskningar. Nästa varv efter det stickar du "2 räta maskor tillsammans, 1 rätmaska" - detta upprepas varvet ut. De sista 2 varv i diagrammet stickas alla maskor räta utan minskningar. Fortsätt sedan enligt beskrivningen. Mvh DROPS Design

22.11.2023 - 14:09

country flag Gabriella Gazzola wrote:

Vorrei lavorare il cappello e lo scaldacollo Modello n° z-87350. Vorrei acquistare 50 g di filatoDROPS KID-SILK di Garnstudio colore n° 06 foschia blu da lavorare insieme a 150 g di filato Alpaca. Quale colore mi consigliate di abbinare in sostituzione del grigio perla non disponibile? Vorrei che risultasse un insieme dal colore delicato ma non banale, è per una ragazzina. Le quantità vanno bene? Grazie

23.09.2023 - 17:33

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Gabriella, lo potrebbe abbinare al 2917 o 2918 di Alpaca: chieda al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia di scattarle delle foto dei diversi abbinamenti, così potrà scegliere meglio. Buon lavoro!

25.09.2023 - 23:13

country flag Lucile Lefloch wrote:

Bonjour, Concernant le tour de cou, arrivé à la hauteur souhaitée ne faut-il pas prendre l'aiguille circulaire 3,5 plutôt que 4,5 ? Merci pour votre réponse

23.10.2022 - 17:35

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lefloch, pour le tour de cou, on utilise une aiguille circulaire 5,5 + une aiguille circulaire 4,5 - ainsi, on va tricoter les côtes du début et de la fin avec les aiguilles 4,5 (elles seraient beaucoup trop serrées avec des 3,5). Bon tricot!

24.10.2022 - 08:44

country flag Montserrat wrote:

He hecho el conjunto con 3 ovillos Drops Baby Merino color 22 y 2 ovillos Drops Kid-Silk color 01. Resultado mut agradable i elegante.

26.12.2021 - 12:15

country flag Montserrat wrote:

Buenas , estoy haciendo la muestra para hacer el gorro con las agujas del 3'5, me salen 10 centímetros, 28 puntos. Estoy hecha un lio no se con que agujas trabajar para que me salga el trabajo bien para la talla M.

16.11.2021 - 11:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Montserrat, tienes que hacer tu muestra con las agujas 4,5 (2 hilos= 1 Alpaca + 1 Kid-Silk). Saludos!

17.11.2021 - 08:33

country flag Aubrey wrote:

I am interested in making this hat, but can't tell the purpose of using two types of yarn simultaneously. Is it for color variation or thickness? Can this project be made with just one strand of yarn? Or are two essential?

03.10.2021 - 07:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Aubrey, we are using two different yarn in this piece to combine the qualities of the two yarns (softnes, silkiness, durability, halo effect, etc). You can use different yarns or even one yarn, but the result will be different, and you will have to make sure to do a gauge swatch and check your stitch/row count. Happy Stitching!

03.10.2021 - 12:27

country flag Bernadette wrote:

Bonjour, concernant le bonnet "Lovely Weekend Wander" comment dois-je procéder pour diminuer 12 m à intervalles réguliers alors que j'ai 104 mailles ? Merci beaucoup pour votre aide. Cordialement Bernadette

10.08.2020 - 15:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Bernadette, vous pourrez trouver ici, une leçon qui explique comment répartir des diminutions. Bon tricot!

10.08.2020 - 16:46

country flag Julia wrote:

Mönstret säger "Sticka mönster så här: 2-3 rätmaskor, A.1 (= 16 maskor), sticka rätmaskor över de resterande maskorna på varvet." för vänster vante, men visst är det A.3 som menas?

02.06.2020 - 15:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Julia. Ja det stämmer, detta har nu rättats i texten. Mvh DROPS Design

04.06.2020 - 13:24