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  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Jumpers
  4. DROPS
  5. 205
  6. 43

Grand Canyon Nights by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with stripes and V-neck in DROPS Air. Size: S - XXXL

Keywords: bottom up, jumper, long sleeves, sewn in sleeves, stripes, v-neck

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DROPS 205-43
DROPS design: Pattern ai-215
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-200-200-200-250-250 g colour 06, black
150-150-150-150-200-200 g colour no 26, beige
50-50-50-100-100-100 g colour 13, orange
50-50-50-50-100-100 g colour 02, wheat

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool 		from 4.80 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.40£. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagram A.1. Work the entire diagram in stocking stitch and continue stripes the same way as A.1 shows out in each side on front and back piece.
Work with 3, 5 or 7 balls on row (depending on where you are in the pattern), to avoid long jumps with the yarn on the wrong side. I.e. At the bottom of jumper when first stripes begin, work with 1 ball beige on each side of jumper and 1 ball orange in the middle of jumper. NOTE: To avoid holes at colour change twine the yarns together.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 100 stitches), minus edge stitches (2 stitches) and divide the remaining 98 stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 9) = 10.8.
In this example decrease by knitting approx. every 10th and 11th stitch together. Do not decrease over edge stitches.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to V-neck):
Decrease for V-neck inside 5 edge stitches in garter stitch towards mid front. All decreases are done from the right side!
Decrease as follows after 5 edge stitches in garter stitch: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows before 5 edge stitches in garter stitch: Begin 2 stitches before the 5 edge stitches and knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work front and back piece back and forth on circular needle separately, bottom up. Sew the shoulder seams. Then pick up stitches along armholes for sleeves. Work sleeves back and forth on circular needle until sleeve cap is done, then work the rest of sleeve in the round on double pointed needles/circular needle, top down until finished measurements. Finally sew the bottom of armhole. Sew jumper together when finished.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 94-100-108-118-126-138 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm with beige. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). Then work rib (= knit 1/purl 1) with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, in each side. When rib measures 4 cm, switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 9-9-9-11-11-13 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP-1 = 85-91-99-107-115-125 stitches. Then work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 9-10-11-12-13-14 cm from cast-on edge, begin stripes - read PATTERN. Work first row as follows from right side: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch with beige, work 21-24-28-32-36-41 stitches in stocking stitch with beige, work A.1 (= 41 stitches), work 21-24-28-32-36-41 stitches in stocking stitch with beige and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch with beige. Continue pattern like this.
When piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm, cast off 2 stitches at beginning of the 2 next rows for armholes = 81-87-95-103-111-121 stitches.
Continue pattern as before.
When piece measures 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm, begin decrease for V-neck. I.e. work next row from wrong side as follows: Work 38-41-45-49-53-58 stitches as before, knit 5 stitches, work the remaining 38-41-45-49-53-58 stitches as before.
On next row (right side), knit until the 5 purl stitches mid front. Then pick up 1 stitch in each of the 5 purl stitches but pick up on the back of these 5 stitches.
Keep these 43-46-50-54-58-63 first stitches on needle (i.e. 38-41-45-49-53-58 stitches + 5 stitches that were knitted up).
Slip the remaining 43-46-50-54-58-63 stitches on 1 stitch holder.
Finish each side of V-neck separately.

LEFT SIDE FRONT (when garment is worn):
Begin from wrong side and work in stocking stitch back and forth with 5 edge stitches in garter stitch towards mid front and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side. Continue pattern the same way as before till all stitches are worked in black. 
AT THE SAME TIME on next row from right side, decrease 1 stitch for V-neck towards mid front - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this every other row 3-3-4-4-4-4 times in total and then every 4th row 4-4-4-4-5-5 times in total.
After last decrease there are 36-39-42-46-49-54 stitches on needle.
Work until piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from cast-on edge. Begin from right side and cast of the first 31-34-37-41-44-49 stitches on shoulder (make sure to avoid a tight cast-off edge) = 5 stitches in garter stitch remain on needle. Work in garter stitch back and forth over these 5 stitches for approx. 8-8-9-9-9-9 cm. Cast off.

RIGHT SIDE FRONT (when garment is worn):
Slip the 43-46-50-54-58-63 stitches from stitch holder back on circular needle size 5.5 mm. Begin from right side and work in stocking stitch back and forth with 5 edge stitches in garter stitch towards mid front and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side. Continue pattern the same way as before till all stitches are worked in black. 
AT THE SAME TIME on next row from right side, decrease 1 stitch for V-neck towards mid front - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this every other row 3-3-4-4-4-4 times in total and then every 4th row 4-4-4-4-5-5 times in total.
After last decrease there are 36-39-42-46-49-54 stitches on needle.
Work until piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from cast-on edge. Begin from wrong side and cast of the first 31-34-37-41-44-49 stitches on shoulder (make sure to avoid a tight cast-off edge) = 5 stitches in garter stitch remain on needle. Work in garter stitch back and forth over these 5 stitches for approx. 8-8-9-9-9-9 cm. Cast off.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 94-100-108-118-126-138 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm with beige. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). Then work rib (= knit 1/purl 1) with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When rib measures 4 cm, switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 9-9-9-11-11-13 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP-1 = 85-91-99-107-115-125 stitches. Then work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
When piece measures 9-10-11-12-13-14 cm from cast-on edge, begin stripes and work the same way as on front piece (i.e. stripes on front and back piece are identical).
When piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm, cast off 2 stitches at beginning of the 2 next rows for armholes = 81-87-95-103-111-121 stitches.
Continue pattern as before until all stitches are worked in black. Work until piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from cast-on edge. On next row cast off the middle 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Work in stocking stitch and cast off 1 stitch on next row from the neck = 31-34-37-41-44-49 stitches remain on shoulder. Continue to work until piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. Loosely cast off with knitting from right side. Work the other shoulder the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside cast-off edge.

SLEEVE:
Pick up stitches along armhole on front and back piece, i.e. begin in one side of piece where stitches were cast off for armhole, and pick up from right side 58-60-64-68-70-74 stitches inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on circular needle size 5.5 with black (i.e. do not pick up stitches along the bottom of armhole).
Work in stocking stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When sleeve measures 2 cm in all sizes from where stitches were knitted up, insert 1 marker at the beginning and end of row. Markers show where sleeve should be sewn in at the bottom of armhole, and measure sleeve from these markers!
Switch to double pointed needles/short circular needle size 5.5 mm and work in stocking stitch in the round.
Work until sleeve measures 41-40-39-37-36-33 cm (approx. 4 cm remain before finished measurements, try the jumper on and work to desired length).
Knit 1 round while increasing 6-6-6-6-8-8 stitches evenly = 64-66-70-74-78-82 stitches.
Switch to a short circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 1 for 4 cm. Loosely cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Sleeve measures approx. 47-46-45-43-42-39 cm from stitches where knitted up. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew side seams inside 1 edge stitch.
Sew sleeve to the bottom of armhole from marker and in towards the corner in each side.
Sew neck edge together mid back and sew neck edge to neck line in the back of neck - make sure the seam is in towards the wrong side.

Diagram

symbols = beige
symbols = orange
symbols = wheat
symbols = black
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 205-43) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Katleen wrote:

Beste, Ik begrijp niet wat u bedoelt met deze beschrijving ivm aanzet V hals. Graag wat meer uitleg. ‘Brei op de volgende naald (goede kant) recht tot de 5 steken averecht midden voor. Neem dan 1 steek op in elk van de 5 averechte steken, maar neem deze op aan de achterkant van deze 5 steken.’ Thanks !

15.05.2023 - 18:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Katleen,

In plaats van de rechter naald in de voorste lus van de steek te steken, steek je de naald nu in de achterste lus van de steek. In elke steek brei je 2 steken. Dus in de eerste steek brei je twee steken, in de tweede steek brei je 2 steken, enzovoorts.

17.05.2023 kl. 18:01

country flag Annie wrote:

Je ne comprends pas les 5 mailles au point mousse côté encolure pouvez vous m expliquer svp d avance merci

21.02.2021 - 20:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Annie, quand on tricote les 2 devants séparément, on les tricote en jersey = comme avant, mais avec 1 maille lisière au point mousse côté emmanchure et 5 mailles au point mousse côté encolure, autrement dit, sur l'endroit, tricotez toutes les mailles à l'endroit et sur l'envers, tricotez les 5 mailles côté encolure (en début de rang sur l'envers pour le devant gauche/en fin de rang sur l'envers pour le devant droit) à l'endroit (tout comme la maille lisière côté emmanchure). Bon tricot!

22.02.2021 kl. 09:26

country flag Anne Vowinckel wrote:

Gehen die Streifen über die ganze Breite? Im Diagramm sieht es so aus, als ob an der Seite noch beige gestrickt wird. Auf dem Foto sieht es anders aus.

24.10.2020 - 17:11

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Vowinckel, ja genau, die streifen gehen über die ganze Breite, dh so wie in A.1 beidseitig weitestricken bis die Randmaschen mit der unteren bzw neuen Farbe gestrickt wird, dh Sie werden dann bei einigen Reihen mit 5 und eben mit 7 knäuel stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

26.10.2020 kl. 08:04

country flag Catherine Cortesi wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne suis pas sûre de comprendre les explications pour les manches : au début, elles sont ouvertes, c'est ça ? Ce sont les deux centimètres qui permettent de donner l'aisance du dessous de bras ? Merci de votre réponse.

02.10.2020 - 14:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Cortesi, vous avez tout à fait compris, ces 2 cm du haut de la manche seront cousues le long des mailles rabattues pour les emmanchures dos/devant sur les côtés, et on termine ensuite la manche en rond. Bonne continuation!

02.10.2020 kl. 15:11

country flag CArolina wrote:

Hola, a mi no me quedo claro en la parte del escote cuando indica levantar 5 puntos del lado de atrás...como se hace eso sin cerrar los puntos? Muchas gracias

10.02.2020 - 18:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Carolina. Aquí tienes el video de cómo se recogen los puntos en el borde:

16.02.2020 kl. 23:02

country flag Elke Jahn wrote:

Ich möchte gerne wissen, ob in dem Diagramm A1 nur die Hinreihen oder die Hin- und Rückreihen angegeben sind. Können Sie mir da bitte helfen? Vielen Dank!

22.01.2020 - 09:48

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Jahn, alle Reihen sind im Diagramme gezeichnet, dh die Hin- sowie die Rückreihen - hier lesen Sie mehr über Diagramme. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

22.01.2020 kl. 10:18

country flag Monika wrote:

Toller Pullover mit mit genialem Farbkontrast durch den Roten und Weissen Zacken - FANTASTISCH

15.11.2019 - 23:04

country flag Marga wrote:

Cuando estará el patrón?

11.11.2019 - 20:39

country flag Pascale O wrote:

Magnifique....! ma laine attend les explications avec impatience...!

11.10.2019 - 18:25

country flag Masumbuko wrote:

Super modèle hâte d’avoir les explications !! Vite vite votez pour lui.

20.09.2019 - 19:41

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