DROPS / 203 / 13

Owl Feathers by DROPS Design

Knitted shawl in DROPS Delight and DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked top down with stripes and 2-coloured leaf pattern in English rib.

DROPS Design: Pattern no de-204
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
Height: Measured down the middle = approx. 80 cm.
Width: Measured along the top edge = approx. 160 cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200 g colour 18, fall forest
And use:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200 g colour 302, camel beige

KNITTING TENSION:
23 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
19 stitches in width and 44 rows in height (22 rows measured up the knitted stitches) with English rib = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 80 cm for stocking stitch and leaf pattern in English rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Delight print DROPS Delight print 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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100% Alpaca
from 2.25 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 2.25 £ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 2.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

EDGE STITCH IN GARTER STITCH:
As the pattern includes working 2 rows from the right side followed by 2 rows from the wrong side, the garter stitches need to be worked as follows: * Knit from the right side, purl from the right side, purl from the wrong side, knit from the wrong side *, work from *-*.
The edge stitches are worked with double strand each time there are 2 strands on the same side.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.13.
A.1 and A.4 = sides of shawl.
A.3 = mid-stitch on shawl.

2-COLOURED PATTERN IN ENGLISH RIB (back and forth):
The striped pattern is worked in English rib as shown in diagrams A.1 to A.13.
To get the 2-coloured effect, the stripes are worked alternately with 1 row camel beige and 1 row fall forest.
* Work 1 row from the right side with camel beige, push the stitches back to the far end of the needle, so the next row is also worked from the right side. Work this row with fall forest.
Work 1 row from the wrong side with camel beige, push the stitches back to the far end of the needle, so the next row is also worked from the wrong side. Work this row with fall forest *, work from *-* to finished length.
Empty and filled squares (outside the diagram); show if the row is worked from the right or wrong side. The square also shows whether the row is worked with camel beige or fall forest. Read KNITTING TIP-1 below.

KNITTING TIP-1:
If you are unsure which colour to use on the next row when working 2-coloured English rib, you can see the colour used on the previous round by looking at the edge stitches.

KNITTING TIP-2 (number of stitches):
All stitch-counts given when working English rib do not include the yarn overs; the yarn overs belong to the knitted stitches and they are counted together as 1 stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SHAWL – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with stripes and 2-coloured leaf pattern in English rib. The English rib pattern changes to reversed stocking stitch, with English rib stitches in vertical stripes between. Then the English rib stitches change to fan-pattern with reversed stocking stitch between.

SHAWL:
Cast on 6 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and camel beige.
Work the first row as follows (= wrong side): 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * 1 yarn over, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left on the row and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 11 stitches.
Work the next row with camel beige (= right side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit until there is 1 stitch left on the row (yarn overs are knitted twisted to avoid holes) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Work the next row with camel beige (= wrong side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left before the edge stitch, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Turn the piece. Then work 2-COLOURED PATTERN IN ENGLISH RIB and EDGE STITCH IN GARTER STITCH – read descriptions above.

WORK A.1A, A.2, A.3A AND A.4A AS FOLLOWS:
Starting from the right side. Work A.1A (= 2 stitches), A.2 (= 3 stitches), A.3A (= 1 mid-stitch), work A.2 (= 3 stitches) and finish with A.4A (= 2 stitches). Continue this pattern. When A.2 has been completed in height there are 59 stitches on the needle – read KNITTING TIP-2. The piece measures approx. 9 cm down the mid-stitch.

WORK A.1B, A.5, A.6, A.7, A.3B AND A.4B AS FOLLOWS:
Starting from the right side: Work A.1B (= 2 stitches), A.5 (= 9 stitches), A.6 (= 8 stitches), A.7 (= 10 stitches), work A.3B (= 1 mid-stitch), A.5 (= 9 stitches), A.6 (= 8 stitches), A.7 (= 10 stitches) and finish with A.4B (= 2 stitches). Continue this pattern. When A.6 has been completed in height there are 75 stitches on the needle.
Continue by repeating A.1B, A.5, A.6, A.7, A.3B and A.4B in height; each time you have repeated the diagrams in height, you increase 16 stitches on the row and there is room for 1 more repeat of A.6 in width between each A.5 and A.7. Continue like this until A.6 has been worked a total of 13 times in height = 267 stitches on the row. The piece measures approx. 50 cm along the mid-stitch.

WORK A.1C, A.8, A.9, A.10, A.3C AND A.4C AS FOLLOWS:
Starting from the right side: Work A.1C (= 2 stitches), A.8 (= 9 stitches), A.9 over the next 112 stitches (= 14 repeats of 8 stitches), work A.10 (= 10 stitches), A.3C (= 1 mid-stitch), work A.8 (= 9 stitches), A.9 over the next 112 stitches (= 14 repeats of 8 stitches), A.10 (= 10 stitches) and finish with A.4C (= 2 stitches). Continue this pattern. When A.9 has been completed in height there are 491 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 70 cm down the mid-stitch.

WORK A.1D, A.11, A.12, A.13, A.3D AND A.4D AS FOLLOWS:
Starting from the right side: Work A.1D (= 2 stitches), A.11 (= 25 stitches), A.12 over the next 192 stitches (= 8 repeats of 24 stitches), work A.13 (= 26 stitches), A.3D (= 1 mid-stitch), work A.11 (= 25 stitches), A.12 over the next 192 stitches (= 8 repeats of 24 stitches), A.13 (= 26 stitches) and finish with A.4D (= 2 stitches). Continue this pattern. When A.12 has been completed in height there are 531 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 80 cm down the mid-stitch.
Cast off using fall forest from the wrong side – with knit over knit, purl over purl – NOTE: The yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches – in addition make 1 extra yarn over between each stitch without a yarn over (this yarn over is worked as 1 stitch and then cast off as normal). Doing this gives the fans a nice, arched finish.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 16.09.2019
New charts: A.2, A.5, A.6 and A.7.
Updated online: 26.09.2019
All new charts.

Under: WORK A.1A, A.2, A.3A AND A.4A AS FOLLOWS. This line is deleted: (NOTE: Start with 1 row from the right side, then 2 rows from the wrong side).

Under the 7th chart text this words are deleted: ...without slipping them from the needle...

Diagram

= work with camel beige; start here
= work with fall forest; start here
= EDGE STITCH IN GARTER STITCH – read description in text
= make 1 yarn over then slip 1 stitch as if to purl
= knit yarn over and stitch together
= purl yarn over and stitch together
= work 3 stitches in the knitted stitch and yarn over as follows: Knit the yarn over and knitted stitch together, but do not slip them off the needle, make 1 yarn over the right needle and knit the stitch and yarn over together = 3 stitches (i.e. 2 stitches increased)
= work 5 stitches in the knitted stitch and yarn over as follows: Knit the yarn over and knitted stitch together, but do not slip them off the needle, *make 1 yarn over the right needle and knit the stitch and yarn over together without slipping them from the needle*, work from *-* a total of 2 times = 5 stitches (i.e. 4 stitches increased)
= work 5 stitches and 3 yarn overs together as follows (= a total of 8 stitches): Slip the first 3 stitches and 2 yarn overs onto the right needle as if to knit together, knit the next 2 stitches and 1 yarn over together, pass the 5 slipped stitches (including yarn overs) on the right needle over the knitted together stitches (i.e. 4 stitches decreased)
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= purl 3 stitches together (= 2 stitches decreased)






Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 203-13) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (42)

Maria 06.10.2019 - 11:09:

Nu har jag kommit till avmaskningen. Jag förstår inte. Det står att omslagen maskas av som egen maska. Men jag har inga omslag kvar efter sista varvet på A 12. Jag stickade ju ihop omslag och maska rät på sista varvet. Och det extra omslaget man ska göra mellan maskor utan omslag måste väl stickas ett varv innan det kan avmaskas?

DROPS Design 07.10.2019 kl. 11:30:

Hei Maria. På siste rad på A.12 strikkes det slik: Lag 1 kast om høyre pinne, løft 1 maske løs over på høyre pinne som om den skulle strikkes vrang og vrang fra retten, rett fra vrangen. Når du begynner å felle av skal du ha kast som felles av som egen maske. MEN har du fått med deg rettelsene som har vært på dette sjalet/nye diagram, se rød rettelse linje? Men du kan fint felle av med kast selv om du ikke har kastet som vises i A.12, se på video under: God Fornøyelse!

Anna 05.10.2019 - 17:49:

Kan det passe at der er 15 blade ned langs midten, efter a1b, a5, a6, a7, a3b og a4b er strikket?

DROPS Design 07.10.2019 kl. 10:30:

Hei Anna. Når alle bladmønster er strikker skal det være 16 blader ned langs midten, 16 blader fra midten og ut (32 blader tilsammen nederst) og 16 blader fra foran og ut til siden. God Fornøyelse!

Maria 16.09.2019 - 21:14:

Är alla fel i diagrammen rättade nu? Jag har börjat om tre gånger och nu inser jag att det måste bli en fjärde gång.... Sjalen är verkligen vacker och jag vill lyckas med den..

DROPS Design 17.09.2019 kl. 14:44:

Hej Maria, skriv ut mönstret igen, så du får de riktiga diagrammer med. Lycka till :)

Marianne 16.09.2019 - 07:28:

Hej Drops. Tak for jeres mange skønne opskrifter. Jeg er igang med at strikke Owl Feathers men der er desværre fejl i. A.2 række 25 Og fejl i række10 på A.5 Og A 7

DROPS Design 16.09.2019 kl. 13:31:

Hei Marianne. Takk for at du gjorde oppmerksom på feilen. Diagram til A.2, A,5, A.6 og A.7 er rettet. mvh DROPS design

Tessan 15.09.2019 - 16:25:

Hej igen och förlåt alla kommentarer. Jag vill bara hjälpa andra som vill sticka den här sjalen. I diagram A.7 så ska "sticka 3 i rätmaskan" bytas ut mot "sticka 5 i rätmaskan"

Tessan 15.09.2019 - 15:47:

Tillägg till föregående kommentar: jag menar diagram A.5 och A.7, inte A.6

Tessan 15.09.2019 - 15:31:

Hej igen! Jag tror att jag har hittat ytterligare ett fel som smugit sig in i diagram A.5 och A.6, rad 10. Uteslut de båda "sticka 3 maskor i rätmaskan". Det blir tokigt om man ökar dessa.

Marianne 15.09.2019 - 07:20:

Tak til Tessan for at hjælpe med fejlen i A.2 , det virker 👍👍

Tessan 14.09.2019 - 22:25:

Tillägg till min tidigare fråga. Jag provade att utelämna "sticka 5 i rätmaskan" på rad 24 och då verkar det stämma överens.

Tessan 13.09.2019 - 23:46:

Hej! Jag har också fastnat på sista delen av A2. Jag har totalt 59m redan innan de sista ökningarna och minskningarna. Det står att det ska vara 59m när A2 är färdigt men jag kommer att få fler. Vad jag kan se så har jag inte missat något tidigare i diagrammet heller.

DROPS Design 16.09.2019 kl. 13:35:

Hei Tessan. Her har det vært en feil i noen av diagrammene. Dette er nå rettet (gjelder A.2, A, 5, A.6 og A.7). mvh DROPS design

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