DROPS / 206 / 21

City Chic Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with pepita pattern in DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked with garter stitch and a square pattern with raised stitches. Sizes S – XXXL.

  • City Chic Jacket / DROPS 206-21 - Knitted jacket with pepita pattern in DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked with garter stitch and a square pattern with raised stitches. Sizes S – XXXL.
  • City Chic Jacket / DROPS 206-21 - Knitted jacket with pepita pattern in DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked with garter stitch and a square pattern with raised stitches. Sizes S – XXXL.
  • City Chic Jacket / DROPS 206-21 - Knitted jacket with pepita pattern in DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked with garter stitch and a square pattern with raised stitches. Sizes S – XXXL.
  • City Chic Jacket / DROPS 206-21 - Knitted jacket with pepita pattern in DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked with garter stitch and a square pattern with raised stitches. Sizes S – XXXL.
  • City Chic Jacket / DROPS 206-21 - Knitted jacket with pepita pattern in DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked with garter stitch and a square pattern with raised stitches. Sizes S – XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no ks-159
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
75-100-100-100-125-125 g colour 02, black
75-75-100-100-100-125 g colour 32, raspberry

KNITTING TENSION:
23 stitches in width and 46 rows in height with garter stitch and raised stitches = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 80 cm for garter stitch and raised stitches (pepita-pattern).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 80 cm for edges.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 7-7-7-8-8-8 items.

Colour combinations shown are:
A) DROPS Kid-Silk 02, 30
B) DROPS Kid-Silk 02, 03

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (for sides of body and sleeves).
Increase on the inside of the outermost stitch on both sides on back piece and on sleeves, and on side on each front piece. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, which is knitted twisted on the next row to avoid a hole. Then work the new stitches in garter stitch and into the pattern as you go.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for neck):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 104 stitches) and take away from the number of stitches you are increasing to (e.g. 122 stitches) = 18 increases. Then divide 104 stitches by 18 = 5.8. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 6th stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

CASTING OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a double strand or a larger size needle.

BUTTONHOLES (on right band when garment is worn):
Work 6-6-6-7-7-7 buttonholes. 1 buttonhole = knit 2 together and make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole – NOTE the buttonholes are neatest when you purl 2 stitches together in a section of 2 purled stitches (seen from the right side).
The first buttonhole is worked approx. 2 cm from the bottom edge and the last buttonhole approx. 6 to 7 cm from the top of the neck. The remaining 4-4-4-5-5-5 buttonholes are worked evenly with approx. 7 to 8 cm between each one.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Back and front pieces and sleeves are worked separately, back and forth with circular needle and bottom up. The piece is sewn together before working the bands, the neck and false pockets.

BACK PIECE:
Using 2 strands of black, cast on 95-105-115-125-140-155 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 3 mm. Work GARTER STITCH back and forth – read description above, for approx. 2 cm, with 2 strands of black.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Remove the one strand and continue working with just 1 strand of black.
Now start the pepita-pattern as follows from the right side: Work A.1 over 2 stitches, repeat A.2 until there are 3 stitches left on the row, work A.3 over 1 stitch and finish with A.1 over the last 2 stitches. Continue this pattern onwards (A.X is repeated in height as shown in the diagrams). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 5 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side – read INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm a total of 5 times on each side = 105-115-125-135-150-165 stitches.
When the piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm, cast off stitches for the armholes at the beginning of each row on each side as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 1-1-1-2-3-3 time, 2 stitches 2-2-3-3-4-5 times and 1 stitch 3-3-6-8-8-11 times on each side = 85-95-95-95-100-105 stitches. Then continue the pattern as before.
When the piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm, cast off the middle 33-35-35-35-34-39 stitches for neck and each shoulder is finished separately (26-30-30-30-33-33 stitches on each shoulder). Continue the pattern and cast off at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: Cast off 1 stitch 2 times = 24-28-28-28-31-31 stitches left on shoulder. Continue working until there is ½ cm left before the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm, but finish either after a complete stripe of black or of raspberry. Change to circular needle size 3 mm. Start from the right side and work 1 ridge back and forth over all stitches with black. Cast off with knit from the right side – read CASTING OFF TIP!
Work the other shoulder in the same way. The back piece measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm from the shoulder down.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE (when the garment is worn):
Using 2 strands of black, cast on 45-50-55-60-70-75 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 3 mm. Work garter stitch back and forth for approx. 2 cm, with 2 strands of black.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Remove the one strand and continue working with just 1 strand as follows from the right side (i.e. from mid front): Work A.1 over 2 stitches, repeat A.2 until there are 3 stitches left on the row, work A.3 over 1 stitch and finish with A.1 over the last 2 stitches. Continue this pattern.
When the piece measures 5 cm increase 1 stitch in the side – remember INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm a total of 5 times = 50-55-60-65-75-80 stitches.
When the piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm, cast off stitches for the armhole at the beginning of each row from the side as follows (i.e. at the beginning of each row from the wrong side): Cast off 3 stitches 1-1-1-2-3-3 times, 2 stitches 2-2-3-3-4-5 times and 1 stitch 3-3-6-8-8-11 times = 40-45-45-45-50-50 stitches. Continue the pattern as before.
When the piece measures 43-45-46-48-49-51 cm, place the outermost 10-11-11-11-13-13 stitches towards mid front on 1 thread for the neck, but to avoid cutting the strand work these stitches before placing them on the thread. Continue the pattern as before and cast off at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 2 times = 24-28-28-28-31-31 stitches left on the shoulder. Continue working until there is approx. ½ cm left before the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm but finish so it matches the back piece. Change to circular needle size 3 mm. Starting from the right side work 1 ridge back and forth over all stitches with black. Cast off with knit from the right side - remember CASTING OFF TIP!

LEFT FRONT PIECE (when the garment is worn):
Using 2 strands of black, cast on 45-50-55-60-70-75 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 3 mm. Work garter stitch back and forth for approx. 2 cm, with 2 strands of black.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Remove the one strand and continue working with just 1 strand from the right side as follows (i.e. from the side): Work A.1 over 2 stitches, A.3 over 1 stitch, repeat A.4 until there are 2 stitches left on the row and finish with A.1 over the last 2 stitches. Continue this pattern.
When the piece measures 5 cm increase 1 stitch in the side – remember INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm a total of 5 times = 50-55-60-65-75-80 stitches.
When the piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm, cast off stitches for the armhole at the beginning of each row from the side as follows (i.e. at the beginning of each row from the right side): Cast off 3 stitches 1-1-1-2-3-3 times, 2 stitches 2-2-3-3-4-5 times and 1 stitch 3-3-6-8-8-11 times = 40-45-45-45-50-50 stitches. Continue the pattern as before.
When the piece measures 43-45-46-48-49-51 cm, place the outermost 10-11-11-11-13-13 stitches towards mid front on 1 thread for the neck. Continue the pattern as before and cast off at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 2 times = 24-28-28-28-31-31 stitches left on the shoulder. Continue working until there is approx. ½ cm left before the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm but finish so it matches the other front piece and the back piece. Change to circular needle size 3 mm. Starting from the right side work 1 ridge back and forth over all stitches with black. Cast off with knit from the right side.

RIGHT SLEEVE (when the garment is worn):
Using 2 strands of black, cast on 58-58-62-62-66-66 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 3 mm. The whole of the rib is worked with 2 strands black. Purl 1 row (wrong side) then work rib (knit 2/ purl 2) with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side for 6 cm. Knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 8-8-7-7-6-6 stitches evenly spaced = 50-50-55-55-60-60 stitches. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Remove the one strand and continue working with just 1 strand. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work pattern as follows from the right side: Work A.1 over 2 stitches, repeat A.2 until there are 3 stitches left on the row, A.3 over 1 stitch and finish with A.1 over the last 2 stitches. Continue this pattern.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 7-8-7-8-6-9 cm increase 1 stitch on each side – remember INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 3-2½-2½-2-2-1½ cm a total of 15-17-18-21-22-24 times = 80-84-91-97-104-108 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 51-51-51-50-49-47 cm (there is approx. 8-8-9-11-12-14 cm left for the sleeve cap and to finished length, but be aware that the bottom 3 cm will be turned up NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to broader shoulders and longer sleeve cap.
Now work the sleeve cap; i.e. cast off stitches at the beginning of every row on both sides as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 1-1-1-1-1-1 time, 2 stitches 2-2-2-3-3-3 times and 1 stitch 12-12-14-17-20-24 times on each side. Then cast off 2 stitches on each side until the sleeve measures approx. 58-58-59-60-60-60 cm. Cast off 3 stitches 1 time on each side and then cast off the remaining stitches – remember CASTING OFF TIP. The sleeve measures approx. 59-59-60-61-61-61 cm from the top down.

LEFT SLEEVE:
Work the left sleeve in the same way as the right sleeve, but when the pepita-pattern begins, work the first row from the right side as follows: Work A.1 over 2 stitches, A.3 over 1 stitch, repeat A.4 until there are 2 stitches left and finish with A.1 over the last 2 stitches. Continue this pattern.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the cast-off edge. Sew in the sleeves inside the 1 edge stitch. Sew the sleeve and side seams in one go inside the 1 edge stitch. Fold up the bottom 3 cm on the sleeves.

RIGHT BAND (when the garment is worn):
Using 2 strands of black and circular needle size 3 mm knit up from the right side approx. 109-113-117-121-125-129 stitches along the mid-front edge on the right front piece (the number of stitches must be divisible by 4 + 1). The whole band is worked with 2 strands black.
Knit 1 row from the wrong side and knit 1 row from the right side.
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side (i.e. from the neck): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2 / knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left on the row, purl 2 and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib, but after approx. 1-1½ cm work 6-6-6-7-7-7 BUTTONHOLES evenly spaced – read description above. Continue working until the band measures 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

LEFT BAND (when the garment is worn):
Using 2 strands of black and circular needle size 3 mm knit up from the right side approx. 109-113-117-121-125-129 stitches along the mid-front edge on the left front piece.
Knit 1 row from the wrong side and knit 1 row from the right side.
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side (i.e. from the bottom edge): 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left on the row, purl 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for approx. 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

NECK:
Using 2 strands of black and circular needle size 3 mm knit up from the right side approx. 104 to 124 stitches around the neck (including the stitches from the threads in front).
Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase evenly to 122-126-130-130-134-142 stitches (the number of stitches must be divisible by 4 + 2) – read INCREASE TIP-2. The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2 / knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left on the row, purl 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib, but when the neck measures approx. 1-1½ cm work the last buttonhole over the other buttonholes on the right band. Work the buttonhole by knitting together the third and fourth stitch from the edge then making 1 yarn over (the yarn over is purled on the next row to leave a hole). Continue working until the neck measures approx. 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

FALSE POCKET:
The false pockets are for decoration only.
Using 2 strands of black and circular needle size 3 mm cast on 20-20-22-22-24-24 stitches. Work garter stitch back and forth with 2 strands black for approx. 2 to 2½ cm. Cast off with knit from the right side. Work another false pocket in the same way. Place the pockets on the front pieces approx. 8 to 12 cm from the bottom edge and approx. 7 to 11 cm from the outermost edge on the bands (you can try the jacket on and move the pockets if you wish). Sew the false pockets on with small stitches.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 30.08.2019
Chart text:
= slip the stitch as if to purl, make sure the strand you are using is on the wrong side (away from you seen from the right side)
= slip the stitch as if to purl, make sure the strand you are using is on the wrong side (towards you seen from the wrong side)

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, knit from wrong side with raspberry
symbols = knit from right side, knit from wrong side with black
symbols = slip the stitch as if to purl, make sure the strand you are using is on the wrong side (away from you seen from the right side)
symbols = slip the stitch as if to purl, make sure the strand you are using is on the wrong side (towards you seen from the wrong side)
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 206-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (24)

country flag Irina 24.05.2020 - 20:10:

Is it really possible that only 175g of yarn ( 100+75 for size M) is needed? That must be a misprint.

user icon DROPS Design 25.05.2020 kl. 09:08:

Hi Irina. 175 g of yarn is correct for size M. Remember that this is a very lightweight yarn (25 g = 210 m). Happy knitting!

country flag Martine Dionisio 25.12.2019 - 20:04:

Correction pour ma dernière question, il s’agit de A3 sur la 3ème maille avant la fin mais non A1. Excusez-moi

country flag Martine Dionisio 25.12.2019 - 20:01:

Bonjour, Très joli modèle mais je ne comprends pas le diagramme : à la fin du premier rang pied-de-poule, il est écrit de tricoter A1 ( maille glissée) pour la 3ème maille avant la fin mais la 4ème maille avant la fin est déjà une maille glissée. Ce qui voudrait dire qu’il y aurait 2 mailles glissées de suite. Est-ce normal ? Merci d’avance pour votre réponse.

user icon DROPS Design 02.01.2020 kl. 10:55:

Bonjour Mme Dionisio, vous tricotez (vu sur l'endroit): A.1, puis vous répétez A.2 (= en commençant par 1 m glissée, 4 m end) jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 3 mailles et terminez par A.3 (= 1 m glissée = comme la 1ère m de A.2) et 2 m end de A.1. Sur l'envers, tricotez: A.1, A.3, répétez A.2 (en lisant de gauche à droite) et terminez par A.1. Cette vidéo pourra peut-être vous aider. Bon tricot!

country flag Sahar Taha 26.08.2019 - 13:25:

Thanks for your explanation l got it

country flag Sahar Taha 25.08.2019 - 17:34:

I can't understand the daigram specially how can a slip the stitches and the strand Ian using in the wrong side... Can you make keep video about this stitch

user icon DROPS Design 26.08.2019 kl. 09:16:

Dear Mrs Taha, your request has been forwarded to our team. When you slip the stitch from RS, the working yarn should be behind work = from WS (as before, ie just slip the stitch and work the next stitch) - when you have to slip the stitch from WS the working yarn is behind work (facing RS), before slipping the stitch, place the working yarn facing you (= towards the WS of piece), slip the stitch, then place the working yarn again as it should be (= facing RS) to continue knitting the next stitches. Happy knitting!

country flag Sahar Taha 25.08.2019 - 17:32:

This pattern is beautiful but l can not understand the diagram especially how can l slip stitch and the strand I am using in the wrong side. can you make video about this stitch thanks a lot

user icon DROPS Design 25.08.2019 kl. 18:21:

Dear Sahar, unfortunately we don't have a video tutorial, but you simply have to pass one stitch from the left to the right needle kkeping the yarn in front or on the back of the work to get the decorative pattern. Happy knitting!

country flag Pia Olsen 21.08.2019 - 14:07:

Hvor bliver den fulde opskrift til denne pæne trøje/jakke af? Jeg kan se at den er der på blusen. Venlig hilsen Pia

user icon DROPS Design 22.08.2019 kl. 08:40:

Hej. Nu finns den även på danska. Lycka till!

country flag Maria Bækkelund 20.08.2019 - 17:50:

Der mangler stadig beskrivelsen i opskriften.Glæder mig til at strikke denne trøje,jakke🙃

country flag Ann-Sofie Ekblom 08.08.2019 - 11:29:

Längtar efter mönster, så jag kan sätta igång och sticka denna snygga jacka

country flag Rosy 29.07.2019 - 09:00:

Un adorable classique style années soixante remis au goût du jour, indémodable et les motifs sont très originaux !

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