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  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Jumpers
  4. DROPS
  5. 207
  6. 3

Winter Bride by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with round yoke in DROPS Flora. The piece is worked top down with English rib on the yoke. Sizes S - XXXL.

Keywords: assembly free, english rib, jumper, long sleeves, round neck, round yoke, top down

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DROPS 207-3
DROPS Design: Pattern no fl-045
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-350-350-400-450-500 g colour 03, light grey

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
20 stitches in width and 44 rows in height with English rib = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch/English rib.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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65% Wool, 35% Alpaca 		from 2.40 £ /50g
DROPS Flora uni colour DROPS Flora uni colour 2.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Flora mix DROPS Flora mix 2.50 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.40£. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 126 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 16) = 7.8.
In this example decrease by knitting together approx. each 7th and 8th stitch
When increasing pick up the strand between 2 stitches after approx. each 8th stitch (the strand is knitted twisted to avoid holes).

ENGLISH RIB:
ROUND 1: * Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* to end of round.
ROUND 2: * Purl the yarn over and slipped stitch together, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, repeat from *-* to end of round.
ROUND 3: * Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit the yarn over and slipped stitch together *, repeat from *-* to end of round.
Repeat rounds 2 and 3 onwards.

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 4 stitches) make 1 yarn over. Repeat at the other marker thread (4 stitches increased on round).
On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 126-132-138-144-150-156 stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and Flora. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 1 / purl 2) for 3 cm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 16-17-18-19-20-22 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 110-115-120-125-130-134 stitches. Insert a marker thread here. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 3 mm. Knit 1 round where you increase 50-51-54-55-56-62 stitches evenly spaced – remember DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 160-166-174-180-186-196 stitches. Knit 1 round. Now work ENGLISH RIB – read description above, for 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Knit 1 round where the yarn overs are knitted together with their respective stitches and increase at the same time 68-72-80-88-96-104 stitches evenly spaced = 228-238-254-268-282-300 stitches. Knit 1 round. Now work English rib for 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm. Knit 1 round where the yarn overs are knitted together with their respective stitches and increase at the same time 68-72-80-88-96-104 stitches evenly spaced = 296-310-334-356-378-404 stitches. Knit 1 round. Now work English rib for 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm. Knit 1 round where the yarn overs are knitted together with their respective stitches and increase at the same time 16-29-32-38-42-49 stitches = 312-339-366-394-420-453 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch. When the piece measures 20-21-22-24-25-26 cm increase 16-29-32-38-42-49 stitches evenly spaced = 328-368-398-432-462-502 stitches. When the piece measures 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm from the marker thread the yoke is finished. The next round is worked as follows:

Work the first 47-52-56-62-68-76 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 69-79-86-91-94-99 stitches on a thread for sleeve and cast on 10-10-12-12-14-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the next 95-105-113-125-137-152 stitches (= front piece), place the next 69-79-86-91-94-99 stitches on a thread for sleeve and cast on 10-10-12-12-14-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), finally work the remaining 48-53-57-63-69-76 stitches (= half back piece).

BODY:
There are 210-230-250-274-302-332 stitches on the body. Insert a marker thread on both sides of the body in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-14 stitches cast on under both sleeves (= 5-5-6-6-7-7 new stitches on each side of the threads). Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 4 cm increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 5 cm a total of 5 times = 230-250-270-294-322-352 stitches. When the piece measures 28 cm increase 46-50-54-57-62-68 stitches evenly spaced = 276-300-324-351-384-420 stitches. Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work rib (= knit 1 / purl 2) for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The jumper measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 69-79-86-91-94-99 stitches from the one side of the piece onto short circular needle/double pointed needles size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-12-14-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 79-89-98-103-108-113 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches (= 5-5-6-6-7-7 new stitches on each side of the thread). Work stocking stitch in the round. When the sleeve measures 4 cm decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2½-1½-1½-1-1-1 cm a total of 12-16-19-21-22-23 times = 55-57-60-61-64-67 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch until the sleeve measures 38-36-35-33-32-30 cm. Now increase 11-12-12-14-14-14 stitches evenly spaced = 66-69-72-75-78-81 stitches. Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work rib (= knit 1 / purl 2) for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 41-39-38-36-35-33 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 207-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Jackie wrote:

When knitting the English rib, having finished row 3 and starting row 2 again. End of row 3 finishes with knitting the y o and slip stitch. Row 2 starts with purl the y o and slip stitch together. I am finding that my row 2 starts with 2 ‘single ‘ stitches in front of the y o and slipped stitches. Have tried several times. Can you advise what I’m doing wrong please?

13.08.2023 - 17:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jackie, round 3 starts with (YO, slip 1 as if to P) so that the first stitch on next round will be (Purl together YO and slipped stitch). We show in this video how to work English rib in the round, it might then help. Happy knitting!

14.08.2023 kl. 10:08

country flag Claude wrote:

Bonjour, le point de ce modèle est le point brioche et non le point côtes anglaises et il faut beaucoup de concentration pour parvenir à suivre la vidéo quand on tient le fil de la main droite... Pourquoi diminuer de 16 mailles (taille s) pour augmenter de 50 mailles le rang suivant entre le col et l'empiècement ? Ne peut-on pas simplement augmenter de 34 mailles ? Cordialement, Claude

03.11.2022 - 10:52

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Claude, ces diminutions après le col + les augmentations au début de l'empiècement permettent de marquer joliment le col. Bon tricot!

03.11.2022 kl. 14:03

country flag Emilita wrote:

Quisiera saber si este patrón o parecido está para bebés y niños. Gracias. saludos

24.02.2022 - 18:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Emilita, puedes probar con los siguientes patrones, que son similares: https://www.garnstudio.com/pattern.php?id=10511&cid=23 https://www.garnstudio.com/pattern.php?id=10319&cid=23

28.02.2022 kl. 16:56

country flag Anett wrote:

Am Ende des Rumpfteiles sollen für meine Größe 50 Maschen zugenommen werden.Jedoch mißt der untere Umfang des Rumpfes nur 4 cm mehr als der obere.Selbst wenn ich dann mit Nadel 2,5 weiter stricke, habe ich dann viel mehr Weite als angegeben!Da stimmt doch was nicht!

30.01.2022 - 23:11

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anett, nach alle Zunahmen (vor Bündchen) haben Sie 250 Maschen (= ca 104 cm Umfang/52 cm flach, wie in der Maßskizze), dann nehmen Sie 50 Maschen regelmäßig zu und jetzt stricken Sie Bündchen mit den kleineren Nadeln: man braucht mehr Maschen im Bündchen für den selben Umfang als glatt rechts, deshalb wird es so zugenommen.Viel Spaß beims tricken!

31.01.2022 kl. 10:13

country flag Van Der Sijpt Chris wrote:

Zou deze trui graag breien met gewone naalden(geen rondbreinld)van onder naar boven.hoe bereken ik mijn steken aub?met dank

08.11.2021 - 18:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Chris,

Omdat de pas helemaal in de rondte gebreid wordt met structuurpatroon, is dit patroon niet zo geschikt om met rechte naalden te breien. Voor sommige andere patronen is dit wel mogelijk.

Om een patroon aan te passen om op rechte naalden te breien hebben we een instructie gemaakt. Deze vind je hier.

10.11.2021 kl. 16:28

country flag Mona Bjørheim wrote:

Hei. Jeg holder på med armene og lurer på om jeg forstår mønsteret riktig? Skal jeg felle så ofte som hver 11/2 cm og så strikke et ganske langt stykke hvor jeg ikke feller? Mvh Mona

08.04.2021 - 16:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Mona. Når du har felt på hver 1,5 cm 16 eller 19 ganger (spørs hvilken str. du strikker), måler arbeidet/ermen 4+24 cm eller 4+28,5 cm, Altså 28 eller 32,5 cm, så fortsetter du uten å felle i 8 eller 2,5 cm til ermet måler 36 eller 35 cm. 8 eller 2,5 cm er ikke et langt stykke uten å felle. mvh DROPS design

26.04.2021 kl. 10:23

country flag Patricia wrote:

Bonjour je souhaite réaliser ce modèle en baby alpaca silk. Est ce que les explications sont les mêmes ? et la taille des aiguilles est t'elle identique ? sachant que le fil de remplacement est suggéré dans les explications . merci de votre réponse

04.01.2021 - 13:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Patricia, n'hésitez pas à nous dire si la réponse précédente a pu vous aider ou bien si vous avez besoin de précisions complémentaires. Bon tricot!

05.01.2021 kl. 10:32

country flag Patricia wrote:

Bonjour, la possibilité de réaliser ce modèle dans un autre groupe de fil est donnée. J'ai choisi Babay alpaca silk pour le faire par contre je me pose la question de savoir si les explications à suivre sont identiques que pour le fil Flora donné ici ? idem pour les aiguilles sont elles les mêmes ? Merci pour votre réponse. Cordialement

03.01.2021 - 16:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Patricia, vous pouvez tout à fait remplacer DROPS Flora par DROPS Baby Alpaca Silk, vérifiez bien la quantité nécessaire via notre convertisseur, comme c'est une laine du même groupe, vous devriez avoir la même tension - la règle de l'échantillon s'applique ici comme toujours. Bon tricot!

04.01.2021 kl. 16:17

country flag Diana Blockx wrote:

Geachte, na het beindigen van de pas en men de steken gaat verdelen voor de mouwen wordt er gevraagd om een aantal steken bij te zetten. Is het eerst de steken voor de mouw op een hulpdraad zetten en dan de extra steken er achter bijzetten of is het de helft van de mouw, dan de bijkomende steken en dan de rest; Vriendelijke groeten D Blockx

12.11.2020 - 22:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Diana,

De steken worden opgezet onder de oksel, dus in de zijnaad tussen het voorpand en het achterpand (en later als je de mouw breit aan de onderkant van de mouw), dus niet halverwege de mouw.

14.11.2020 kl. 10:08

country flag Isabela Anaguano wrote:

Hello dear Team, I don't understand why we need to decrease stitches after knitting the neck, just to increase it again in the next row? Can I omit the decrease and increase only the number of stitches I need to continue in my size?

15.10.2020 - 17:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Anaguano, this way there is a nice transition between neck edge and yoke, the one you can see also on the photo. Happy knitting!

16.10.2020 kl. 08:32

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