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  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Tops
  4. DROPS
  5. 161
  6. 11

Athena by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS top with round yoke,in stocking st, garter st with lace pattern, worked top down in ”Paris”. Size: S - XXXL.

Keywords: rib, round neck, round yoke, short sleeves, top, top down

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DROPS 161-11
DROPS design: Pattern no w-555
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600-650 g colour no 02, light turquoise

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm - for garter st.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton 		from 1.10 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.80£. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

INCREASE TIP 1:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next round work YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP 2:
Inc with YO on each side of 2 sts in each side (the marker sits inbetween these sts). Knit YO twisted on next round.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec as follows before 1 st in stocking st and marker: K 2 tog.
Dec after marker and 1 st in stocking st as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
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TOP:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Rounds start mid back.

YOKE:
Cast on 92-96-100-104-108-112 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Paris. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm and work A.1, AT THE SAME TIME on first round in diagram inc 12-16-18-18-20-20 sts evenly - READ INCREASE TIP 1 = 104-112-118-122-128-132 sts. When A.1 has been worked vertically, switch back to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work in garter st AT THE SAME TIME inc 10 sts evenly on 2nd ridge and 6-7-13-15-21-26 sts evenly on 5th ridge (NOTE: Inc on a round with K) = 120-129-141-147-159-168 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When 7-7-8-8-8-10 ridges have been worked in total, piece measures approx. 7-7-8-8-8-9 cm, switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Work 2 rounds in stocking st. Now work rib as follows: * K 1, P 2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round. When rib measures 2 cm, inc by making 1 YO before K st in every section P the entire round (= 40-43-47-49-53-56 sts inc) = 160-172-188-196-212-224 sts. On next round P YOs twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes. Continue with K 1/P 3. Repeat inc before every st with K when rib measures 4-4-4-5-6-6 cm = 200-215-235-245-265-280 sts. Continue with K 1/P 4 until rib measures 6-6-6-7-8-8 cm in total. Work 2 rounds in stocking st. Now switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work 2 ridges while AT THE SAME TIME on first round inc 8-11-11-15-21-28 sts evenly = 208-226-246-260-286-308 sts. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm and continue with A.1. When A.1 has been worked vertically, switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work 2 ridges while AT THE SAME TIME on first round inc 8-10-10-16-22-28 sts evenly = 216-236-256-276-308-336 sts. Now continue on circular needle size 5 mm as follows: Work the first 30-34-37-41-47-52 sts (= back piece), slip the next 48-50-54-56-60-64 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8 new sts under sleeve, work the next 60-68-74-82-94-104 sts (= front piece), slip the next 48-50-54-56-60-64 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8 new sts under sleeve, work the remaining 30-34-37-41-47-52 sts (= back piece) on round.

BODY:
There are now 136-152-164-180-204-224 sts for body. Insert a marker in each side of body where new sts were cast on under sleeves (= 4 new sts on each side of marker). MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Continue in stocking st. When piece measures 4 cm, dec on each side of each markers (= 4 sts dec) - READ DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec when piece measures 11-10-9-8-7-6 cm = 128-144-156-172-196-216 sts. When piece measures 18-17-16-15-14-13 cm, inc 1 st on each side of each marker - READ INCREASE TIP 2 (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 2-2½-3-3-3½-4 cm 4 more times = 148-164-176-192-216-236 sts. When piece measures 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm, inc 10-8-11-10-14-8 st evenly = 158-172-187-202-230-244 sts. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work 3 ridges. Loosely cast off.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Slip sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm (= 48-50-54-56-60-64 sts). Pick up 1 st in each of the 8 sts cast on under sleeve = 56-58-62-64-68-72 sts. Loosely cast off all sts. Repeat on the edge of the other sleeve.

Diagram

symbols = K
symbols = K 2 tog, 1 YO between 2 sts
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 161-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (31)

country flag Mireille wrote:

Bonjour Peut-on réhausser le dos pour qu’il soit moins décolleté que le devant ?

09.10.2023 - 23:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mireille, probablement, vous pouvez vous aider d'un modèle de tension similaire pour tricoter une réhausse. Bon tricot!

10.10.2023 - 09:12

country flag Jade wrote:

A magyar fordítás hibás. Azt írja, a vállon 5 mm-s tűre váltás után lustakötéssel kell folytatni, de az angol szerint az A1-es mintával.

07.07.2023 - 16:54

country flag Sabine wrote:

Muster A. 1 \r\n2 M re zusstr, 1 Umschlag zwischen 2 M?

13.01.2022 - 19:54

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sabine, bei der 3. Reihe in A.1 stricken Sie: *2 Maschen rechts zusammen, 1 Umschlag*, von *-* wiederholen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

14.01.2022 - 09:10

country flag Christa wrote:

Ich möchte ein ein duenneres Garn stricken, wie kann ich das umrechnen .Danke für Ihre Hilfe.

19.06.2021 - 17:25

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Christa, dieses Top ist ähnlich und mit einem Garn der Garngruppe B gestrickt - leider können wir jeder Anleitung nach jedem individuellen Frage anpassen und einzelne Modelle auf individuellen Wunsch hin umrechnen. Wenn sie Hilfe damit brauchen, wenden Sie sich bitte an dem Laden wo Sie die Wolle gekauft haben, dort hilft man Ihnen gerne weiter. Danke im voraus für Ihr Verständnis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.06.2021 - 07:30

country flag Marilena wrote:

Posso avere la spiegazione della maglia top down in italiano? Grazie mille

18.02.2021 - 14:33

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Marilena, nel menù a tendina sotto la foto può trovare le lingue in cui è stato tradotto il modello: a questo link può trovare la versione in italiano. Buon lavoro!

18.02.2021 - 21:47

country flag Liv Torunn Gullstein Torpe wrote:

Eg opplever at dei store str er gedigne. Med litt chunky garn må eg strikke s/m istaden for xxl, ellers holder garnet kunn til bærestykke og litt til. Kvifor er det slik?

06.08.2020 - 09:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Liv, hvis du overholder strikkefastheden ifølge opskriften, så vil du få de mål som står, ud for den størrelse du har valgt, i måleskitsen. God fornøjelse!

06.08.2020 - 10:25

country flag Malene Bloch-Jørgensen wrote:

Jeg synes den er flot

03.06.2020 - 13:56

country flag Carmen wrote:

Rumpfteil.: 1 mark. Setzen = 4 neue m. Beidseitig je. Markr. Glatt rechts stricken muss ich 4 maschen zunehmen? Die arb.hat 4 cm beidseitig j. Mark. . Je 1 m abnehmen

24.05.2019 - 17:46

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Carmen, ja genau, nach 4 cm nehmen Sie 1 Masche beidseitig beider Markierungen zu = 4 Zunahmen bei jeder Zunahmenrunde - siehe ZUNAHMETIPP-2. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

27.05.2019 - 08:22

country flag Carmen wrote:

Der vorgang verstehe ich nicht, wie ich es arbeiten muss , muss ich zuerst das mut dem lochmuster arbeiten und dan in der andere runde die masche zunehmen? Weil sonnst das lochmuster nicht aufgeht,

29.03.2019 - 10:16

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Carmen, ganz am Anfang der Passe nehmen Sie regelmäßig bei der 1. Reihe in A.1 zu, dh mit Nadeln 5 die 1. Reihe in A.1 stricken, gleichzeitig 12-20M (siehe Grösse) gleichmässig verteilt zunehmen = 104-132 M, dann A.1 bis zur Ende (= die 3 letzten Reihen) stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

01.04.2019 - 10:30

country flag Carmen wrote:

Mod. 161-11 sprone: avviare 104 lavorare 2 coste a legaccio non capisco, e poi devo fare subito gli aumenti 1: aumento 1 m, fare 1 m gettata al giro succ. Lav. La m gettata ritorta quindi lav. Nel filo posteriore della m e non in quello anteriore per evitare che si xhe si formi un buco non capisco xone devo fare

28.03.2019 - 17:57

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Carmen. Dopo aver avviato le maglie e chiuse in tondo, lavora 1 giro a diritto, 1 a rovescio, 1 a diritto e 1 a rovescio. Inizia poi a seguire il diagramma A1 e aumenta. Per gli aumenti le alleghiamo un video che può esserle utile. Buon lavoro!

28.03.2019 - 20:11

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