DROPS / 206 / 8

Date Night by DROPS Design

Knitted dress with round yoke in DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-060
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-500-550-600-650 g colour 08, lavender

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for garter stitch edges.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 4.90 £ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 4.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 4.90 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size.

ELEVATION (back of neck):
The elevation is worked in garter stitch. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid back). Start from the right side and knit 7-8-8-9-9-10 stitches past the marker thread, turn tighten the strand and knit 14-16-16-18-18-20 back. Turn tighten the strand and knit 21-24-24-27-27-30, turn tighten the strand and knit 28-32-32-36-36-40 back. Turn tighten the strand and knit 35-40-40-45-45-50, turn tighten the strand and knit 42-48-48-54-54-60 back. Turn tighten the strand and knit 49-56-56-63-63-70, turn tighten the strand and knit 56-64-64-72-72-80 stitches, turn tighten strand and knit back to the marker thread. 

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 92 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 22) = 4.2. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 4 stitches) make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at each marker thread; 4 stitches increased on round).
On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

DECREASE TIP-1 (for sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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DRESS – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. Then it is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 92-96-100-108-112-118 stitches with short circular needle size 3.5 mm and Sky. Work 1 RIDGE – read description above. 
Knit 1 round and increase 22-24-26-24-26-26 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 114-120-126-132-138-144 stitches. Purl 1 round. Change to circular needle size 4 mm. 
For a better fit you can now work an elevation at the back of the neck; makes the neck slightly higher – read ELEVATION. This elevation can be left out, which leaves the neck the same front and back.
Work A.1 (= 6 stitches) over all stitches (= a total of 19-20-21-22-23-24 times in width). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
On each round with a star (= increase-round) increase as follows:
INCREASE 1: Increase 24-24-24-24-30-30 stitches evenly spaced = 138-144-150-156-168-174 stitches. A.1 repeats 23-24-25-26-28-29 times in width.
INCREASE 2: Increase 12-18-24-24-24-30 stitches evenly spaced = 150-162-174-180-192-204 stitches. A.1 repeats 25-27-29-30-32-34 times in width.
INCREASE 3: Increase 6-6-6-12-12-12 stitches evenly spaced = 156-168-180-192-204-216 stitches. A.1 repeats 26-28-30-32-34-36 times in width. 
When A.1 has been completed 1 time in height the piece measures approx. 8 cm from the cast-on edge. Work A.2 (= 12 stitches) over all stitches (= 13-14-15-16-17-18 times in width).
When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height there are 273-308-330-368-391-414 stitches on the round. On the next round increase 7-4-8-0-1-12 stitches evenly spaced = 280-312-338-368-392-426 stitches. The piece measures approx. 21-22-22-24-24-24 cm. Continue with stocking stitch in the round until the piece measures 21-23-24-26-28-29 cm from the cast-on edge. Now divide the piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Work stocking stitch over the first 38-42-45-51-56-62 stitches, place the next 64-72-78-82-84-88 stitches on a thread for sleeve and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve, work stocking stitch over the next 76-84-91-102-112-125 stitches, place the next 64-72-78-82-84-88 stitches on a thread for sleeve and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve, work stocking stitch over the last 38-42-46-51-56-63 stitches. Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.

BODY:
There are 168-184-202-224-248-274 stitches for the body.
Insert 1 marker thread on each side of the body, in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches cast on under the sleeves; allow them to follow your work onwards, they will be used when increasing in the sides. When the piece measures 3 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 25 times = 268-284-302-324-348-374 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch until the piece measures 55-55-56-56-56-57 cm. Work 1 round where you increase 2-4-4-0-0-4 stitches evenly spaced = 270-288-306-324-348-378 stitches. Work A.3 (= 6 stitches) the whole round. When A.3 is finished in height change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work garter stitch for 2 cm. Cast off with knit. The piece measures approx. 86-88-90-92-94-96 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 64-72-78-82-84-88 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles or short circular needle size 4 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve = 72-80-88-92-96-100 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve. Work stocking stitch in the round.
When the piece measures 3 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread - read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease like this every 2½-2-1½-1½-1½-1½ cm a total of 13-16-19-19-20-21 times = 46-48-50-54-56-58 stitches. When the sleeve measures 42-41-40-39-37-36 cm (short measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke), change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm. Work garter stitch for 2 cm then cast off with knit. The sleeve measures approx. 44-43-42-41-39-38 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

= knit
= purl
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
= increase-round; on this round increase stitches evenly spaced as explained in the text
= this square is no stitch (due to displacement at beginning of round), go directly to next symbol in diagram




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 206-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (21)

Else-Maj Hamunen 29.02.2020 - 09:11:

Tehty mukava malli kutoa.

Gerda 07.01.2020 - 20:35:

De meerderingen van het lijf kloppen niet. Ik ben op 35 cm na de mouw, alle meerderingen zijn al lang gedaan, en bij het passen is het een zwangerschaps model. Elke 2e naald een meerdering is niet goed, mijn breisel lijkt niet op het model.

DROPS Design 18.01.2020 kl. 12:40:

Dag Gerda,

Heb het nagekeken en ik denk inderdaad dat er een fout in zit en dat het elke 2,5 cm moet zijn, i.p.v. elke 2e naald. Het is doorgegeven aan design ter controle, zodat er waarschijnlijk een correctie op komt, maar waarschijnlijk kun je eerst wel verder met deze informatie.

Desiree 03.01.2020 - 15:21:

Patroon klopt niet. 25 meerderingen op het lijf om de naald zou betekenen dat er 100 steken op 20 cm zouden moeten bij gemaakt worden terwijl je 55cm hebt om dat te doen. Is het niet beter om staat iedere 5enld te doen?

Maria Kassalia 26.09.2019 - 23:20:

Was heißt 10 maschen unter denn arm glatt rechts stricken muß ich die 10 maschen zunehmen ich habe nach denn 82 stillegente maschen weitere 10 maschen rechts geschtrickt aber das kommt am ende nicht hin. vielen dank

DROPS Design 27.09.2019 kl. 08:21:

Liebe Frau Kassalia, Das Rumpftteil wird so aufgeteilt: stricken Sie die ersten 51 Maschen glatt rechts, dann legen Sie die nächsten 82 Maschen still und schlagen Sie 10 neuen Maschen (= unter dem Arm), dann stricken Sie die nächsten 102 Maschen gallt rechts, legen Sie die nächsten 82 M still und schlagen Sie 10 neuen Maschen an (= unter dem Arm) und stricken Sie die letzten 51 Maschen glatt rechts. Siehe auch dieses Video ab 6:52. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Katrin 24.09.2019 - 19:06:

Hei har alkurat begynt å strikke men det er noe som ikke stemmer . På bildet ser det ut som om det bare er 2 riller før A1 begynner men når jeg følger oppskriften får jeg 3 riller før jeg begynner med A1 er det en feil i oppskriften for den kanten jeg får er bredere

Maria Kassalia 05.09.2019 - 20:54:

Hallo ich versuche das kleid zu stricken bei der 2 und 3 zunahme ist es richtig A1 zu wiederholen oder A3.

DROPS Design 06.09.2019 kl. 07:52:

Liebe Frau Kassalia, die 3Zunahmenrunden werden in A.1 gestrickt und zwar in jeder der 3 Runden mit einem Pfeil; nach der 2. Zunahmen, haben Sie jetzt genügend Maschen um A.1 25-34 x (siehe Grösse) in der Breite zu stricken, nach dem 3. Pfeil/Zunahmen haben Sie genügend Maschen um A.1 26-36 x in der Breite zu stricken. Nach A.1 stricken Sie A.2. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Yvonne 18.08.2019 - 15:58:

Volgens mij staat er in de 21nld van patroon A2 een fout hier hou ik op het laatst 7 steken over ipv 5 steken.

DROPS Design 01.09.2019 kl. 13:57:

Dag Yvonne,

Het aantal steken op de naald zou gelijk moeten blijven nadat je naald 21 uit telpatroon A.2 hebt gebreid. (De omslagen en minderingen compenseren elkaar.)

Line 30.07.2019 - 01:53:

Inspiration tout à fait divine

Yvonne 09.07.2019 - 14:43:

Heel mooi jurk. Hopelijk komt de beschrijving snel zou hem graag willen maken

Beata 08.07.2019 - 17:29:

Piękna sukienka!

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