DROPS / 206 / 3

Idun Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern on the yoke. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no u-890
Yarn group B
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-550-600-650-750 g colour 75, petrol cerise
50-50-100-100-100-100 g colour 77, light oak

KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stocking stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch and Nordic pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Round (blue) NO 612: 6-6-7-7-8-8 items.

-------------------------------------------------------
Colour combinations shown are (in the same order as the materials list above):
A) DROPS KARISMA 39, 11.
B) DROPS KARISMA 72, 05.
C) DROPS KARISMA 52, 54.
D) DROPS KARISMA 55, 01.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

ELEVATION (back of neck):
To make the jacket slightly higher at the back of the neck you can work an elevation as described here. Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the row (in S and XL insert the marker in the middle stitch, in M, L, XXL and XXXL insert the marker between the 2 middle stitches on the row). Start from the right side with petrol cerise and knit 13-14-15-15-16-17 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten strand and purl 27-28-30-31-32-34 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and knit 40-42-45-46-48-51 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 53-56-60-61-64-68 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and knit to end of row, work 1 row from wrong side (band worked in garter stitch). Then work YOKE as described in the text.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size. The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension becoming tighter when working pattern, it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. You can use a larger size needle when working pattern if this is a problem.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 104 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 31) = 3. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 3rd stitch. Do not increase on the bands. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body and mid under sleeves):
All increases are worked from the right side!
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at the marker thread and 4 stitches increased on the row).
On the body the yarn overs are purled twisted on the next row (wrong side) to avoid holes. On the sleeves they are knitted twisted on the next round to avoid holes. Then the new stitches are worked in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (mid under sleeve): 
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLE:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then work the other 5-5-6-6-7-7 buttonholes with approx. 9-9-8-8-7½-7½ cm between each one.

CASTING OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle or make 1 yarn over after approx. each 8th stitch at the same time as casting off (yarn overs cast off as normal stitches).


-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth from mid front with circular needle, top down. Then the yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 104-108-112-116-120-124 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3.5 mm and petrol cerise. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm – remember the BUTTONHOLE on the right band – read description above.
Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 31-32-34-35-36-38 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 135-140-146-151-156-162 stitches. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the row, after band; the yoke is measured from this marker!
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm and purl 1 row from the wrong side (bands worked in garter stitch and yarn overs purled twisted).
You can now work an ELEVATION in the back of the neck – read description above. If you do not want an elevation go straight to YOKE.

YOKE:
The first row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1A until there are 6 stitches left on the row (the number of stitches does not fit to begin with as each repeat has 10 stitches, but this does not matter as the first rows are one-coloured), work A.1B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern. Read KNITTING TIP and REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME on each row marked with an arrow in A.1A increase stitches evenly spaced as described below – remember INCREASE TIP-1:
Arrow-1: Increase 41-43-45-47-49-55 stitches evenly spaced = 176-183-191-198-205-217 stitches.
Arrow-2: Increase 25-28-30-33-36-44 stitches evenly spaced = 201-211-221-231-241-261 stitches (there is now room for 19-20-21-22-23-25 repeats of A.1 with 10 stitches).
Arrow-3: Increase 22-30-40-48-54-58 stitches evenly spaced = 223-241-261-279-295-319 stitches.
Arrow-4: Increase 22-30-36-44-54-56 stitches evenly spaced = 245-271-297-323-349-375 stitches (there is now room for 9-10-11-12-13-14 repeats of A.1 with 26 stitches).
Arrow-5: Increase 16-20-24-28-22-26 stitches evenly spaced = 261-291-321-351-371-401 stitches (there is now room for 25-28-31-34-36-39 repeats of A.1 with 10 stitches).
Arrow-6: Increase 12-14-8-6-10-12 stitches evenly spaced = 273-305-329-357-381-413 stitches.
When A.1 has been completed the piece measures approx. 18-18-18-21-21-21 cm from the marker on the neck.
Continue with stocking stitch and petrol cerise and 5 band stitches in garter stitch until the piece measures 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm from the marker on the neck.
Now divide the yoke for body and sleeves on the next row as follows: Work 44-48-51-56-61-67 stitches in stocking stitch and garter stitch as before (= front piece), place the next 54-62-68-72-74-78 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 77-85-91-101-111-123 stitches in stocking stitch as before (= back piece), place the next 54-62-68-72-74-78 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 44-48-51-56-61-67 stitches in stocking stitch and garter stitch as before (= front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 177-193-209-229-253-277 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread 47-51-55-60-66-72 stitches in from each side (= in sides of body). There are 83-91-99-109-121-133 stitches between marker threads on the back piece. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they are used when increasing in the sides. 
Work stocking stitch back and forth with petrol cerise and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side towards mid front – remember the buttonholes on the right band.
When the piece measures 6 cm from the division in all sizes increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 6 cm a total of 4 times on each side = 193-209-225-245-269-293 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 29 cm from the division in all sizes (there is approx. 3 cm left to finished length; you can try the jacket on and continue working to desired length). 
Purl 1 row from the wrong side where you increase 51-55-59-67-71-79 stitches evenly spaced (bands continued in garter stitch; do not increase on the bands) = 244-264-284-312-340-372 stitches; this increase is to avoid the rib being tight.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work the next row from the right side as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm. Cast off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING OFF TIP! The jacket measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 54-62-68-72-74-78 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 4.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 60-68-76-80-84-88 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches under the sleeve and allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing mid under sleeve.
Start the round at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round with petrol cerise. When the sleeve measures 3-3-3-2-2-2 cm from the division decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-1½-1-1-1-1cm a total of 3-7-10-11-11-13 times = 54-54-56-58-62-62 stitches.
When the sleeve measures 15-15-16-16-16-17 cm from the division increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 4-4-3-3-2-2 cm a total of 3 times = 60-60-62-64-68-68 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 39-38-36-35-33-32 cm from the division (there is approx. 3 cm left to finished length; you can try the jacket on and continue working to desired length). NOTE: shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke.
Knit 1 round where you increase 16-16-18-20-20-20 stitches evenly spaced = 76-76-80-84-88-88 stitches.  
Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 3 cm. Cast off loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING OFF TIP!
The sleeve measures approx. 42-41-39-38-36-35 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto the left band. 

Diagram

= petrol cerise
= light oak
= increase-row



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 206-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

Agnes Dalsegg Sæter 14.05.2020 - 17:08:

Ang ermer på Idun jakke. Skal man virkelig øke maskeantall nederst på ermet fra 60 til 76 m (strM)? Blir ikke vrangbord vid da? Ser ikke slik ut på bildet

DROPS Design 15.05.2020 kl. 07:26:

Hei Agnes, De økt maskene betyr at ikke vrangbord blir trang. Det hører til vrangbord at den trekker stoffet sammen, slik at den blir ikke så vid som man kunne tro fra maskeantallet. God fornøyelse!

Monique Boshouwers 18.03.2020 - 13:11:

Moet ik op de averechtse kant dan beginnen met telpatroon A.1B?

Alexandra 27.10.2019 - 10:27:

Jättefint mönster. Koftan blir snyggare om man inte ökar innan resåren i nederkant och ärmar. Tråkigt att ni inte skriver mönster i XS. Vi ser alla olika ut och det finns människor som har små storlekar som gillar stickade kläder med.

Agnieszka 22.10.2019 - 07:38:

A nie, mój błąd, wszystko pasuje, przecież robimy od góry do dołu a nie odwrotnie 😉

Agnieszka 22.10.2019 - 07:32:

Czy instrukcja wykonania dziurek jest na pewno poprawnie napisana? Jak bym sobie nie obruciła robótki, to prawe obszycie, w prawym rzędzie zawsze wykonuję na początku rzędy, a nie na końcu, czy w takim razie wykonać narzut na dziurkę na lewej stronie i przerobić ją bez przekręcenie na lewej? Czy taka zmiana w ogóle wpłynie jakoś na końcowy wygląd obszyć? Pozdrawiam

DROPS Design 22.10.2019 kl. 08:21:

Witaj Agnieszko! Tutaj przerabiamy robótkę od góry do dołu, dlatego każdy rząd na prawej stronie robótki zaczyna się od lewego przodu, a kończy na prawym przodzie. Dziurki na guziki znajdują się na prawym przodzie. Pozdrawiamy!

Kathrin 16.09.2019 - 14:20:

Hallo, muss ich das Muster auf der Rückreihe dann von links nach rechts stricken? oder wie gehabt von rechts nach links? Vielen Dank

DROPS Design 16.09.2019 kl. 15:23:

Liebe Kathrin, wenn Sie das Muster in Reihen stricken lesen Sie die Hinreihen rechts nach links und die Rückreihen links nach rechts (und die Diagramme von unten nach oben lesen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Turid Fagerland 07.09.2019 - 21:41:

Jeg har øket maskeantallet fra 279 m (str. L, pil 3) med 44 m i pil 4. Jeg skal da ha 323 m og 12 rapporter a 26 m. Når jeg ganger 12 rapporter med 26 m, får jeg tallet 312, altså ikke 323. Jeg har da 11 m tilovers. Er det feil i mønsteret, eller er det jeg som har misforstått noe? Venter spent på svar.

DROPS Design 09.09.2019 kl. 07:22:

Hei Turid, Når du øker maskeantallet med 44 fra 279 får du 223 masker. Som du sier 12 x 26 = 312. Med 11 stolpe masker (til å begynne med), går masketallet opp i forhold til mønsteret. God fornøyelse!

KateC 05.08.2019 - 17:32:

To clarify, in this instruction, you only do a YO, you do not also do a M1, i.e. lift loop and knit into back of it? Thank you,

DROPS Design 07.08.2019 kl. 11:02:

Dear KateC, to increase 1 stitch you will make a yarn over and work the yarn over twisted on next row - as explained in this video. Happy knitting!

KateC 04.08.2019 - 22:54:

When you say “make 1 yarn over,” does this just mean Make 1, or do you then move the yarn over (to front)? Won’t this leave a hole? I am a new knitter, thank you.

DROPS Design 05.08.2019 kl. 07:41:

Hi Kate, 1 yarn over means wind the strand around the right needle to make an extra stitch. The yarn over is then worked twisted (in the back of the loop rather than the front) on the next row/round to avoid a hole. Happy knitting!

Jóna Marvinsdóttir 15.07.2019 - 12:51:

Get ég keypt þetta munstur? Og hvernig ber ég mig að? Hef aldrei pantað áður.

DROPS Design 15.07.2019 kl. 14:47:

Öll mynstrin eru frí. Þú getur prentað þau út.

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 206-3

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.