DROPS / 206 / 4

Idun by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern on the yoke. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no u-889
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-550-600-650-750 g colour 75, petrol cerise
50-50-100-100-100-100 g colour 77, light oak

KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stocking stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch and Nordic pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Colour combinations shown are (in the same order as the materials list above):
A) DROPS KARISMA 39, 11.
B) DROPS KARISMA 72, 05.
C) DROPS KARISMA 52, 54.
D) DROPS KARISMA 55, 01.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 92 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 30) = 3.1. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 3rd stitch (approx.). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

ELEVATION (back of neck):
To make the jumper slightly higher at the back of the neck, you can work an elevation as described here. Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round = mid back. Start from the right side with petrol cerise and knit 13-14-15-15-16-17 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 26-28-30-30-32-34 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and knit 39-42-45-45-48-51 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 52-56-60-60-64-68 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and knit 65-70-75-75-80-85 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 78-84-90-90-96-102 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and knit to mid back. Then work YOKE as described in the text.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size. The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension becoming tighter when working pattern, it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. You can use a larger size needle when working pattern if this is a problem.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body and mid under sleeves):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at the marker thread).
On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeves): 
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

CASTING OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle or make 1 yarn over after approx. each 8th stitch at the same time as casting off (yarn overs cast off as normal stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. Then the yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 92-96-100-104-108-112 stitches with short circular needle size 3.5 mm and petrol cerise. Knit 1 round then work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 3 cm.
Knit 1 round where you increase 30-32-34-34-36-38 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 122-128-134-138-144-150 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the round (= mid front) – the yoke is measured from this marker.
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm and knit 1 round (yarn overs knitted twisted).
You can now work an ELEVATION in the back of the neck – read description above. If you do not want an elevation go straight to YOKE.

YOKE:
Work A.1 in the round (the number of stitches does not fit to begin with as each repeat has 10 stitches, but this does not matter as the first rounds are one-coloured). Continue the pattern. Read KNITTING TIP and REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME on each round marked with an arrow in A.1, increase stitches evenly spaced as described below – remember INCREASE TIP-1:
Arrow-1: Increase 40-44-46-46-48-56 stitches evenly spaced = 162-172-180-184-192-206 stitches.
Arrow-2: Increase 28-28-30-36-38-44 stitches evenly spaced = 190-200-210-220-230-250 stitches (there is now room for 19-20-21-22-23-25 repeats of A.1 with 10 stitches).
Arrow-3: Increase 22-30-40-48-54-58 stitches evenly spaced = 212-230-250-268-284-308 stitches.
Arrow-4: Increase 22-30-36-44-54-56 stitches evenly spaced = 234-260-286-312-338-364 stitches (there is now room for 9-10-11-12-13-14 repeats of A.1 with 26 stitches).
Arrow-5: Increase 16-20-24-28-22-26 stitches evenly spaced = 250-280-310-340-360-390 stitches (there is now room for 25-28-31-34-36-39 repeats of A.1 with 10 stitches).
Arrow-6: Increase 12-14-8-6-10-12 stitches evenly spaced = 262-294-318-346-370-402 stitches.
When A.1 has been completed the piece measures approx. 18-18-18-21-21-21 cm from the marker on the neck.
Continue with stocking stitch and petrol cerise until the piece measures 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm from the marker on the neck.
Now divide the yoke for body and sleeves by working the next round as follows: Work 38-42-45-50-55-61 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ back piece), place the next 54-62-68-72-74-78 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 77-85-91-101-111-123 stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece), place the next 54-62-68-72-74-78 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 39-43-46-51-56-62 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 166-182-198-218-242-266 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread on each side of the body in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they are used when increasing in the sides.
Start the round at one of the marker threads and work stocking stitch in the round with petrol cerise.
When the piece measures 6 cm from the division in all sizes increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 6th round a total of 4 times in each side = 182-198-214-234-258-282 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 29 cm from the division in all sizes (there is approx. 3 cm left to finished length; you can try the jumper on and continue working to desired length). 
Knit 1 round where you increase 50-54-58-66-70-78 stitches evenly spaced = 232-252-272-300-328-360 stitches. This is done to avoid the rib being tight.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING OFF TIP! The jumper measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 54-62-68-72-74-78 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 4.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 60-68-76-80-84-88 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches under the sleeve and allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing mid under sleeve.
Start the round at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round with petrol cerise. When the sleeve measures 3-3-3-2-2-2 cm from the division decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-1½-1-1-1-1cm a total of 3-7-10-11-11-13 times = 54-54-56-58-62-62 stitches.
When the sleeve measures 15-15-16-16-16-17 cm from the division increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 4-4-3-3-2-2 cm a total of 3 times = 60-60-62-64-68-68 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 39-38-36-35-33-32 cm from the division (there is approx. 3 cm left to finished length; you can try the jumper on and continue working to desired length).
Knit 1 round where you increase 16-16-18-20-20-20 stitches evenly spaced = 76-76-80-84-88-88 stitches.  
Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 3 cm. Cast off loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING OFF TIP!
The sleeve measures approx. 42-41-39-38-36-35 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

= petrol cerise
= light oak
= increase-round



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 206-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (33)

Nicole 08.06.2020 - 22:28:

Je trouve vraiment dommage que le bas et les manches soient aussi lâches et trop larges pour un si beau modèle.

DROPS Design 09.06.2020 kl. 10:09:

Bonjour Nicole, vous pouvez tout à fait ajuster le bas du pull et des manches en vous basant sur vos propres mesures et envies et sur un modèle de même tension qui aurait la forme que vous souhaitez. Votre magasin DROPS pourra vous aider si nécessaire, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

Fleck 12.01.2020 - 17:25:

J'aime beaucoup ce motif floral. Je vois que vous tricotez en continental. Actuellement, je souffre beaucoup des mains avec la méthode française et je me rends compte que cette façon de passer le fil est moins agressive et surtout assure une meilleure tension du fil. Il faut que je m'y fasse..

Monique 01.01.2020 - 19:16:

Afin que les côtes du bas du pull ne se retournent pas, j'ai finalement totalement renoncé aux augmentations prévues par le modèle juste avant les côtes. Après avoir testé avec un nombre inférieur d'augmentations, par rapport aux indications du modèle, le résultat n'étant toujours pas satisfaisant, je les ai donc totalement supprimées.

Nathalie 15.12.2019 - 22:48:

Bonjour je souhaite tricoter ce modèle en coloris N°75pouvez vous m'indiquer un fournisseur chez qui ce coloris est disponible Merci

DROPS Design 16.12.2019 kl. 09:07:

Bonjour Nathalie, nous ne connaissons pas les disponibilités de chaque magasin, merci de bien vouloir les contacter directement, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

Monique Mösching Garin 09.12.2019 - 11:36:

Bonjour. Souci avec ce modèle Idun : Côtes du bas du pull, tricotées avec une aig. 3,5, et selon explications, bord pas trop serré, sans jeté, ne restent pas plates mais se retournent et s'enroulent sur le beau côté du pull. Que faire ? Changer la grosseur de l'aiguille, serrer plus le bord ? Cadeau de Noël, merci de votre réponse rapide. Salutations

DROPS Design 09.12.2019 kl. 12:06:

Bonjour Mme Mösching Garin, vous pouvez bloquer le pull, autrement dit l'humidifier (avec un "pshitt" à plantes par ex) - épinglez-le si besoin, et laissez sécher, le bord de devrait plus rouler. Votre magasin DROPS aura peut-être d'autres astuces pour vous, n'hésitez pas à lui demander conseil, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

Merce Campillo Alonso 13.11.2019 - 11:33:

Soy una entusiasta de vuestras lanas, acabo de descubrir este canal y me encanta.Felicidades!!!

Afra Meereboer 28.10.2019 - 11:07:

Goedemorgen, Voorheen waren er vertaallijsten beschikbaar van de ene taal naar de andere. Waar zijn die gebleven ?

DROPS Design 30.10.2019 kl. 11:09:

Dag Afra,

Er zijn bij mijn weten geen vertaallijsten, maar je kunt wel bijvoorbeeld onder de afbeelding bij ieder patroon een andere taal kiezen en dit kan ook op andere pagina's, bijvoorbeeld bij de video's.

Afra Meereboer 26.10.2019 - 12:54:

Waar zijn de vertaallijsten gebleven ? Die zijn zo handig !

DROPS Design 27.10.2019 kl. 16:57:

Dag Afra,

Wat bedoel je met de vertaallijsten? We hebben wel een woordenboek

Anna 07.10.2019 - 00:40:

Ik zou graag een fout in dit patroon willen melden. Bij het gedeelte LIJF staat dat je 4 st moet meerderen iedere 6e nld, in totaal 4x. Dit klopt niet. Je moet 4 st meerderen iedere 6cm, niet iedere 6e nld. Ik heb niet iedere taal gecheckt, maar in het Noors, Zweeds, Deens en Duits staat dat je iedere 6cm moet meerderen. En als je kijkt naar de foto zie je dat dit de juiste instructie is. In beide Engelse versies (UK/US) staat het ook fout. Ik heb iedere 6e nld gemeerderd en moet dit nu uithalen

Ana 18.09.2019 - 01:11:

Me encanta y está super bien explicado! pero tengo una pregunta . Hay que hacer alguna cosa para que en el cambio de pasada quede bien unido el motivo? Hay un punto que me ha quedado un poco desplazado en vertical y me parece que no me he equivocado en ningún punto. Muchas gracias!

DROPS Design 17.10.2019 kl. 20:07:

Hola Ana. Puedes ver este vídeo como sugerencia:

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