DROPS / 199 / 47

Beach Ballet by DROPS Design

Crocheted top in DROPS Belle. The piece is worked with wrap-around style, treble crochets and fans. The piece is worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no vs-049
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-300-300-350-400-400 g colour 03, light beige

CROCHET TENSION:
18 treble crochets in width and 9 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 MM.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 1.80 £ /50g
DROPS Belle uni colour DROPS Belle uni colour 1.80 £ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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CROCHET INFORMATION:
First treble crochet at the beginning of each row is replaced by 3 chain stitches.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 treble crochet by working 2 treble crochets in same treble crochet.
Increase 2 stitches by working as shown in A.4 on right front piece and A.5 on left front piece – NOTE: First double treble crochet at beginning of each row is replaced by 4 chain stitches.

DECREASE TIP (for sides):
Decrease 1 treble crochet by working 2 treble crochets together as follows: * Make 1 yarn over, insert hook through next stitch, pick up strand, 1 yarn over and pull strand through the first 2 loops on hook *, work from *-* 1 more time, make 1 yarn over and pull strand through all 3 loops on hook(= 1 treble crochet decreased).

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. (A.6 shows how rounds start and finish).

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches, (e.g. 68 stitches) and divide by number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 4) = 17. In this example, decrease by working together each 16th and 17th stitch. When increasing work 2 treble crochets in each 17th treble crochet.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Front and back pieces are worked back and forth separately, top down. The pieces are sewn together, and then you work fans along the bottom edge. The sleeves are worked back and forth, top down as far as the armholes, and then worked in the round. A small decorative edge is worked along the front pieces/back piece/neck. The top is wrapped around by placing the right front piece on top of the left front piece and then tying around the waist.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work 21-22-22-25-24-25 chain stitches with hook size 4 mm and Belle. Turn and work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook (= 2 treble crochets), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5-6-6-3-2-3 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, work from *-* to end of row = 17-18-18-20-19-20 treble crochets. Work a total of 6-7-8-6-7-6 rows with 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet – read CROCHET INFORMATION and REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! Then increase to neck and armholes at the same time as follows:
NECK:
On the next row (= from the right side) start to increase for neck at the end of the row – read INCREASE TIP. Increase by 1 treble crochet a total of 2-3-3-0-1-1 times, then increase 2 stitches (as shown in A.4) a total of 19-19-20-26-26-29 times (= a total of 40-41-43-52-53-59 treble crochets increased for neck).
ARMHOLE:
When the piece measures 16-16-16-17-16-14 cm start to increase for armhole – read INCREASE TIP. Increase 1 treble crochet 0-1-1-1-0-1 time, then increase 2 stitches 0-1-2-3-5-7 times. At the end of the first row from the wrong side work 5-5-6-7-8-8 loose chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn with) for the armhole (= a total of 3-6-9-12-16-21 treble crochets increased for armhole). The piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm. Turn and work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook (= 2 treble crochets), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 1-1-2-3-4-4 chain stitches and work to end of row as before.
On the next row decrease 1 treble crochet in the side (i.e. towards the armhole) – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2nd row a total of 4 times (=4 treble crochets decreased), the increases for neck continue as before. When all the decreases (towards the side) and increases (for neck and armhole) are finished there are 56-61-66-80-84-96 treble crochets on the last row. The piece measures approx. 30-32-34-36-38-40 cm from the shoulder down. Cut and fasten strand.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work 21-22-22-25-24-25 chain stitches with hook size 4 mm and Belle. Turn and work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook (= 2 treble crochets), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5-6-6-3-2-3 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, work from *-* to end of row = 17-18-18-20-19-20 treble crochets. Work a total of 6-7-8-6-7-6 rows with 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet – read CROCHET INFORMATION and REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! Then increase to neck and armholes at the same time as follows:
NECK:
On the next row (= from the right side) start to increase for neck at the beginning of the row – remember INCREASE TIP. Increase by 1 treble crochet a total of 2-3-3-0-1-1 times, then increase 2 stitches (as shown in A.5) a total of 19-19-20-26-26-29 times (= a total of 40-41-43-52-53-59 treble crochets increased for neck).
ARMHOLE:
When the piece measures 16-16-16-17-16-14 cm start to increase for the armhole – read INCREASE TIP. Increase 1 treble crochet 0-1-1-1-0-1 time, then increase 2 stitches 0-1-2-3-5-7 times. At the end of the first row from the right side work 5-5-6-7-8-8 loose chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn with) for the armhole (= a total of 3-6-9-12-16-21 treble crochets increased for the armhole). The piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm. Turn and work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook (= 2 treble crochets), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 1-1-2-3-4-4 chain stitches and work to end of row as before.
On the next row decrease 1 treble crochet in the side (i.e. towards the armhole) – remember DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2nd row a total of 4 times (=4 treble crochets decreased), the increases for neck continue as before. When all the decreases (towards the side) and increases (for neck and armhole) are finished there are 56-61-66-80-84-96 treble crochets on the last row. The piece measures approx. 30-32-34-36-38-40 cm from the shoulder down. Cut and fasten strand.

BACK PIECE:
LEFT SHOULDER:
Work 21-22-22-25-24-25 chain stitches with hook size 4 mm and Belle. Turn and work 1 treble crochet in 4th chain stitch from the hook (= 2 treble crochets), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5-6-6-3-2-3 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, work from *-* to end of row = 17-18-18-20-19-20 treble crochets. On the next row work 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet until there is 1 treble crochet left on row – remember CROCHET INFORMATION and work 2 treble crochets in the last treble crochet (= towards neck) = 18-19-19-21-20-21 treble crochets. Cut the strand.

RIGHT SHOULDER:
Work 21-22-22-25-24-25 chain stitches with hook size 4 mm and Belle. Turn and work 1 treble crochet in 4th chain stitch from the hook (= 2 treble crochets), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5-6-6-3-2-3 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, work from *-* to end of row = 17-18-18-20-19-20 treble crochets. On the next row work 2 treble crochets in the first treble crochet (towards the neck) and 1 treble crochet in each of the remaining treble crochets = 18-19-19-21-20-21 treble crochets. Then work 30-30-32-32-34-34 loose chain stitches for the neck and 1 slip stitch in the last treble crochet on the left shoulder. Cut and fasten the strand.

BACK PIECE:
Start on left shoulder and work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 18-19-19-21-20-21 treble crochets, work 1 treble crochet in each of the 30-30-32-32-34-34 chain stitches in the neck and 1 treble crochet in each of the 18-19-19-21-20-21 treble crochets on right shoulder = 66-68-70-72-74-76 treble crochets.
Work 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet until the piece measures 16-16-16-17-16-14 cm. Now start to increase for the armholes on each side of the piece as follows: Increase 1 treble crochet 0-1-1-1-0-1 times, then 2 treble crochets 0-1-2-3-5-7 times = 66-74-80-86-94-106 treble crochets. Cut the strand.
Work the next row as follows: Work 3-3-4-5-6-6 loose chain stitches for the armhole, 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet and finish with 5-5-6-7-8-8 loose chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn with) for the armhole = 72-80-88-96-106-118 stitches. Turn and work 1 treble crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook (= 2 treble crochets), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 1-1-2-3-4-4 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet and 1 treble crochet in each of the 3-3-4-5-6-6 last chain stitches = 72-80-88-96-106-118 treble crochets.
On the next row decrease 1 treble crochet on each side of the piece – remember DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2nd row a total of 4 times = 64-72-80-88-98-110 treble crochets. Continue working until you have the same number of rows as on the front pieces, i.e. the piece measures approx. 30-32-34-36-38-40 cm from the shoulder down. Cut and fasten strand.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams and side seams - sew in outermost loop of outermost stitch so the seam is flat.

FAN-EDGE (bottom edge):
= 176-194-212-248-266-302 treble crochets on last row (both front and back pieces).
Start on right front piece from the wrong side and work as follows: Work A.1 over the first 4 treble crochets, A.2 until there is 1 treble crochet left (= 19-21-23-27-29-33 repeats of 9 treble crochets) and finish with A.3 over the last treble crochet. When A.1 to A.3 have been completed, cut and fasten the strand.

DECORATIVE EDGE (along front pieces and back piece/neck):
Start at bottom of tip on right front piece from the right side and fasten the strand with 1 slip stitch in the first stitch. Work 1 double crochet around the first row, * 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around next row *, work from *-* along the whole front piece, neck and down the left front piece, finishing at the tip. Cut and fasten the strand.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked top down, starting with the sleeve cap.
Work 42-48-44-45-42-46 chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn with) with hook size 4 mm and Belle. Turn and work 1 treble crochet in 4th chain stitch from the hook (= 2 treble crochets), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 2-1-4-5-2-6 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, work from *-* to end of row = 34-39-36-37-34-38 treble crochets. On the next row increase 2 treble crochets on each side of the piece (increase 2 treble crochets by working 3 treble crochets in same treble crochet). Increase like this a total of 7-7-8-8-9-9 times on each side = 62-67-68-69-70-74 treble crochets. Cut the strand.
Work 3-3-4-5-6-6 loose chain stitches for armhole, work 1 treble crochet in each of the 62-67-68-69-70-74 treble crochets and finish with 3-3-4-5-6-6 loose chain stitches for armhole. Then join the piece with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch = 68-73-76-79-82-86 stitches.
Now work in the round as follows: Work A.6 (shows how rounds start and finish), repeat A.7 to end of round (= 7-8-8-9-9-10 repeats of 9 treble crochets) – AT THE SAME TIME on the first round adjust the number of stitches by increasing/decreasing to 64-73-73-82-82-91 treble crochets – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP. Continue until A.6 and A.7 have been completed. Cut and fasten strand. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew in sleeves - sew in outermost loop of outermost stitch so the seam is flat.

TWISTED CORD:
Cut 2 strands measuring 6 metres of Belle. Twist them together until they begin to resist, fold double and they will continue to twist. Tie a knot in each end. Tie one end to the tip of the right front piece. Make 1 more cord in the same way and tie to the tip of the left piece.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 27.06.2019
Correction - LEFT FRONT PIECE, ARMHOLE: Turn and work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook (= 2 treble crochets), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 1-1-2-3-4-4 chain stitches and work to end of row as before.

Diagram

= row/round already worked! Start at arrow. In A.4/A.5 start on next row.
= start here
= chain stitch
= 3 chain stitches
= 5 chain stitches
= double crochet in stitch
= double crochet around chain-space
= treble crochet in stitch
= treble crochet around chain stitch/chain-space
= double treble crochet in stitch
= double treble crochet around chain stitch
= round begins with 1 chain stitch and finishes with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round
= round begins with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 199-47) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (16)

Ann Navales 01.02.2020 - 12:22:

Firstly, thanks for the pattern. The top looks so cute. My question is if I am to use smaller hook size (say 3 or 3.5m hook) to make the stitches tighter or spaces between stitches smaller (so that the top will not be see-through?), how will I adjust the pattern? I want to wear the top without having to wear a tank top and the bra not showing between the spaces. Hope you can help me and that my question is not confusing. Many thanks

DROPS Design 03.02.2020 kl. 09:34:

Dear Mrs Navales, this pattern has been worked with a tension of 18 trebles (Uk-terminology) x 9 rows = 10 x 10 cm. Should you have a different tension, this would then affect the finished garment - read more here about tension. Happy crocheting!

Elena Dorz 14.01.2020 - 22:15:

Buongiorno, ho qualche dubbio sugli aumenti all'uncinetto in fondo alla riga. Nel modello beach ballet, lo schema A4 mi provoca dei buchi un po' troppo grandi per l'aumento dello scalfo destro (che non vedo assolutamente nella foto). Non si potrebbe avere un tutorial che segue questo specifico schema? Di sicuro sbaglio qualcosa... grazie

Fanny 16.12.2019 - 19:22:

Bonjour, c'est un trés joli modèle mais je ne comprend pas bien ce passage: Augmenter 2-3-3-0-1-1 fois 1 bride puis 19-19-20-26-26-29 fois 2 mailles (comme indiqué dans A.4) et ce en fin de rang pour le coté gauche. Je suis le modèle pour une taille M : est-ce que les 3 brides a augmenter ce font sur le même rang (2 brides dans les 3 dernieres mailles du rang) ou sur 3 rang (2 bride a la fin du rang) ? Cordialment

DROPS Design 17.12.2019 kl. 09:51:

Bonjour Fanny, en taille M vous augmentez pour l'encolure en fin de rang sur l'endroit/en début de rang sur l'envers: 3 fois 1 bride puis 19 fois 2 mailles = vous allez maintenant augmenter 2 mailles (= brides et double-brides) comme le montre le diagramme A.4, en fin de rang sur l'endroit/en début de rang sur l'envers pour un total de 3 rangs (1 seule bride) + 19 rangs (2 mailles) = 22 rangs d'augmentations au total. Bon crochet!

Sandra 16.09.2019 - 00:00:

Bonjour, pour la manche, le motif de A7 débute après 11 rangs de B , c'est bien cela ? La manche semble plus longue sur la photo... Merci d'avance.

DROPS Design 16.09.2019 kl. 11:27:

Bonjour Sandra, vous crochetez 9 rangs (en taille S et M) avant de commencer A.7 + les 2 premiers rang de A.7 (= brides), il y a 9 rangs de brides avant la bordure ajourée (+ 2 rangs de brides dans A.7). Bon crochet!

Sandra 09.09.2019 - 18:02:

Merci ... mais ne s'agit-il pas de 19 fois des DB? (Double -Bride) Au premier rang de A4, on augmente déjà de 2DB avec une maille entre ces 2DB? Cela ne fait pas 3 mailles ?

DROPS Design 10.09.2019 kl. 08:40:

Bonjour Sandra, on augmente d'abord 1 seule bride et ce 2 ou 3 fois, puis on augmente 19 fois comme indiqué dans A.4 = dans A.4, on crochète des doubles-brides pour augmenter, mais ces double-brides se crochètent ensuite en brides. Bon crochet!

Sandra 08.09.2019 - 19:56:

Bonjour, pour l'encolure du devant droit, il faut augmenter19 fois 2 DB ? Et une fois sur deux avec une maille en l'air entre ces 2 DB...? Merci d'avance.

DROPS Design 09.09.2019 kl. 09:15:

Bonjour Sandra, on augmente d'abord 2 fois 1 bride puis 19 fois 2 brides, augmentez comme le montre le diagramme A.4 (les 2 premières fois augmentez 1 bride seulement, puis comme dans le diagramme). Bon crochet!

Anna Lutz 09.08.2019 - 11:36:

Ich verstehe die Angabe an der Stelle für den Armausschnitt beim rechten Vorderteil nicht. Muss ich die Zunahmen an der gleichen Seite wie die Zunahmen für den Halsausschnitt machen? Nehme ich beide Maschen am gleichen Ende zu? Schlage ich die in meinem Fall 8 Luftmaschen erst an wenn ich die 5 Reihen mit der Zunahme gehäkelt habe oder bei der ersten Rückreihe der Zunahmen?

DROPS Design 09.08.2019 kl. 12:09:

Liebe Frau Lutz, die Maschen für das Armloch werden nicht an der gleichen Seite als für den Hals zugenommen. Beim Hals nehmen Sie am Ende der Hinreihe /Anfang der Rückreihe zu, beim Armausschnitt nehmen Sie am Anfang der Hinreihe zu (+ dann am Ende der Rückreihe). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Carol 19.07.2019 - 15:41:

Back piece....continue DC until measures 16 cm... 16 cm from shoulder or neck part? Thanks!

DROPS Design 22.07.2019 kl. 22:20:

Hi Carol! From shoulder. Happy crocheting!

Rocío 08.07.2019 - 12:26:

Muy bonito, me gustaría hacerlo pero no encuentro el diagrama. Gracias!!

Angelika Pfeil 24.06.2019 - 19:20:

Beim linken Vorderteil, 3. Absatz heißt es: Wenden und 1 Stäbchen in die 4. Luftmasche ab der Nadel (= 2 Stäbchen), je 1 Stäbchen in die nächsten 1-4-7-10-14-19 Luftmaschen und bis Reihenende wie zuvor häkeln. Wo kommen die 14 Luftmaschen ( bei Gr. XXL) her?

DROPS Design 27.06.2019 kl. 14:57:

Liebe Frau Pfeil, danke für den Hinweis, Anleitung wurde korrigiert. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

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